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Discussion Starter #21
Ok, so you think if I do that mini lift, just bring it to get aligned and I should be good ? Thanks for the pics you posted as well !
 

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I took my chances that I wouldn't need the cam bolts. Some people have said they needed them and other haven't. I got lucky and didn't need them. Your mileage may vary, but I wouldn't buy them until I knew I needed them.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Yea, I think I will just go without them if I do the lift.

Might be a dumb question, but what exactly would it affect not having it if you need it ? Besides mileage ?
 

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The way my adjustment guy put it to me was "while it is within spec without the camber adjustment, that does not mean it won't wear your tires funny". I thought 70.00 for bolts was cheaper than tires so there ya go. Before he put the bolts in I could tell that the front wasn't sitting quite right \/and sure enough my tires were wearing strange even in the 1000-1200 miles I drove until the bolts came in.
 

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I think my lift was worth it wish they came like that from the factory but i just went ahead and bought the cam bolts just like nissanaddicted said $70 bolts are cheaper then 4 new tires... I was going to install them myself but had a friend do it at work on the lift which was a mistake letting him do it but thats another story lol.. I think this mini lift + a 2'' body lift and some 285/75's are perfect for this truck everyday driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Yea, were/how can I get/do the body lift ? Is it better as a DIY or can you get a kit to make life easy lol ..

I will get the camber bolts and bring it to the shop of my buddy, hoepfully he can get it done !
 

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Here is a before and after picture of my 2" PRG Mini-lift with the 2" spacers in the front and the adjustable shackles set to 1-1/2".
 

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Here is my .02... I used the Readylift SST kit. It is a 2.5/ 1.5 lift that comes complete with bumpstops and camber bolts.. I will post pics with stock tires and the upgrade. I actually think the ride improved with the front end coming up a bit. The only rubbing started after the larger tires were installed
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Thank you for the replys, I think i am going to be ordering the kit soon to put my mini lift on, and then maybe a bodylift .
 

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Discussion Starter #31
BUMP..

Ok nother question for anyone who who lifted there truck in general but I am doing the mini lift, is it ideal to do this and tow a trailer ? I will be hauling quads with a enclosed trailer, or open and sometimes is far away I travel . Think if I am towing things often I should be ok or still lift it ?

Thanks
 

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BUMP..

Ok nother question for anyone who who lifted there truck in general but I am doing the mini lift, is it ideal to do this and tow a trailer ? I will be hauling quads with a enclosed trailer, or open and sometimes is far away I travel . Think if I am towing things often I should be ok or still lift it ?

Thanks
I haven't lifted my Frontier yet, but with my lifted Z71 I could still tow. I just couldn't tow at my actual towing capacity. If you added leaf spring helpers or some sort of air bag leveling system then you could probably tow at your max. I will be putting a leveling kit on my frontier soon and I hope I'll be able to tow my RZR and Rhino.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Thanks for your input, I just have a lot quads and race, I'd love get a sideXside . Probably look to get that next !

But yea, I tow a lot so I will need see what to do about that .
 

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Ok here is a little lesson in suspension and camber. When your truck is stock the wheel sits upright at about 0 degrees camber. Negative camber is when your tires look like this / \ postive camber is when your tires look like this \ /. This is an extreme representation as the little back and forward slashed used to ilistrate your tire are at 20 degrees or so. At both extremes it is bad and wears out tires. Negative camber is good because it helps you corner. Most cars are speced to -1 to 0 degrees. As the suspension compresses it typcially goes negative. This is because of the A-arm configureation, but it is done so that when you take a corner and the outside tires compresses it gets better traction as the tire becomes more negative in camber. This is also the reason why poorly lowered civics have tires with such extreme negative camber.

The way our trucks suspension is laid out, when we lift our trucks the camber becomes positive. This is bad for handling. Our spec rangeis also very wide, -1 to +1. With a 2" lift you will get to about +0.9 degrees. Meaning you are within spec and do not need camber adjsutment or camber bolts, based on the spec. However it SUCKS driving around with postive camber. YOur truck will corner like poooo.

Now if you have a guy at pep boys, this might be good. Because even if you have camber bolts and take it into a shop they will say, "you are within spec" and send you down the road with positve camber, never even touching or adjsuting your camber bolts. When they do an intial installation of the bolts they set them right in the middle which is the same as no camber adjsutment bolt then adjsut them as needed based off of reading. If the first reading comes up within spec they won't go and make the fine tune adjsutments that you want, unless you ask for it.

As a side, tires can be set to about -1.5 degrees, before you start to see wear.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Nissan4Life , thank you for that info, I just learned a little ! lol .
I will make sure I get in there and tell them what I want, I am just deciding how to go about lifting and hauling a trailer with some wieght on it much . I am thinking the 2" mini will do just fine, I am towing about max 3000-4000 pounds ..
 

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Nissan4Life , thank you for that info, I just learned a little ! lol .
I will make sure I get in there and tell them what I want, I am just deciding how to go about lifting and hauling a trailer with some wieght on it much . I am thinking the 2" mini will do just fine, I am towing about max 3000-4000 pounds ..
u should b ok with that amount of weight.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Well I'm doing 2" front and 1.5 in the rear, just a small lift for some ground clearance and looks . I think I will be ok , I hope lol .
 

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for the rear, the most popular ways to lift is blocks, shackles, add a leaf, or airbag.

I went airbag cuase it is the best for load. Airbags limit the suspension travel fo the rear, but my truck first line of duty is to carry stuff, not to wheel. So I will live with the compromise.

Though in your case I think that blocks will be best. It does not mess with your stock payload capacity or spring rate.
 
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