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Discussion Starter #1
Hi. My 2014 frontier is not putting out warm air. I'm definitely good on coolant. The coolant seems to be flowing the system and heater core just fine. I can change where the air goes(defrost vs feet), but the temperature doesn't change regardless of where I have to temperature knob. I'm thinking it's probably the blend door actuator, is there a way to test this at home? Has anyone done this replacement and have any tips to offer? Thank you!
 

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Page 26.
""USUALLY"" the gear strips in the actuator. If so, you will hear ticking when you move the temp control from hot to cold. Do this with Key On, Engine Off so all is quiet.
Rarely, the control head is toast.
 

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Do you get heat if you hold the engine RPM’s at about 1500rpm or higher? If yes, you need to bleed air out of your cooling system.
If that doesn’t help, try removing the air blend door actuator but leave it plugged in, then move the temp knob (with ignition on) and watch to see if the actuator moves.
If moving the heat/cold knob doesn’t cause the actuator to move, the actuator or the heat-AC controller is likely bad. The actuator is more likely to fail than the heat/AC controller.
I can post a pic showing the actuator location if you let me know if you have manual AC or Auto-AC. Auto-AC has two temp knobs and a fan knob in the middle. Manual AC has one temp knob and one fan knob.
 

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Make sure your coolant gauge needle sits around the middle of the gauge when the engine is warmed up. If the needle stays on the cold side, your thermostat is likely stuck open and needs to be replaced. Also, make sure the reservoir cap and the radiator cap are not swapped; the radiator cap will have just a seal under it and it will be the reservoir cap that will have the spring, as the reservoir cap is the pressure cap in the system. Next, top off the coolant system when cold and install the radiator cap. Fill the reservoir to the MAX line or a little more and install the cap. Get the front of the vehicle up in the air, either by driving the front wheels onto ramps, parking on a steep hill or jacking up the front of the vehicle as high as safely possible. With the heater set on the highest heat setting, run the engine at 2500-3000 RPM for at least 10-minutes, or longer, as necessary, until hot air (approx. 140 degrees F.) is coming out of the heater vents. Turn off the vehicle and lower it down. The next day when it is completely cold, recheck the coolant level and top off as necessary. This works most of the time. If you still have issues with no heat, then you may have to look at the actuator operation.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Do you get heat if you hold the engine RPM’s at about 1500rpm or higher? If yes, you need to bleed air out of your cooling system.
If that doesn’t help, try removing the air blend door actuator but leave it plugged in, then move the temp knob (with ignition on) and watch to see if the actuator moves.
If moving the heat/cold knob doesn’t cause the actuator to move, the actuator or the heat-AC controller is likely bad. The actuator is more likely to fail than the heat/AC controller.
I can post a pic showing the actuator location if you let me know if you have manual AC or Auto-AC. Auto-AC has two temp knobs and a fan knob in the middle. Manual AC has one temp knob and one fan knob.
I have manual AC. It doesn't matter how warm the engine is or what rpms it's running at, still get the same temperature air. I will try turning the knob with key on but the motor off and see if I hear anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Make sure your coolant gauge needle sits around the middle of the gauge when the engine is warmed up. If the needle stays on the cold side, your thermostat is likely stuck open and needs to be replaced. Also, make sure the reservoir cap and the radiator cap are not swapped; the radiator cap will have just a seal under it and it will be the reservoir cap that will have the spring, as the reservoir cap is the pressure cap in the system. Next, top off the coolant system when cold and install the radiator cap. Fill the reservoir to the MAX line or a little more and install the cap. Get the front of the vehicle up in the air, either by driving the front wheels onto ramps, parking on a steep hill or jacking up the front of the vehicle as high as safely possible. With the heater set on the highest heat setting, run the engine at 2500-3000 RPM for at least 10-minutes, or longer, as necessary, until hot air (approx. 140 degrees F.) is coming out of the heater vents. Turn off the vehicle and lower it down. The next day when it is completely cold, recheck the coolant level and top off as necessary. This works most of the time. If you still have issues with no heat, then you may have to look at the actuator operation.
Thermostat seems to be working properly, the temperature gauge moves as would be expected. I know of the perfect hill to try the incline thing. I'll give that a shot. Thank you
 

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2017 frontier 4x4 sv crew cab
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Hi. My 2014 frontier is not putting out warm air. I'm definitely good on coolant. The coolant seems to be flowing the system and heater core just fine. I can change where the air goes(defrost vs feet), but the temperature doesn't change regardless of where I have to temperature knob. I'm thinking it's probably the blend door actuator, is there a way to test this at home? Has anyone done this replacement and have any tips to offer? Thank you!
Your low on coolant just fill when the motor is cool to the max line
 

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Thermostat seems to be working properly, the temperature gauge moves as would be expected. I know of the perfect hill to try the incline thing. I'll give that a shot. Thank you
I read the instructions for a 2016 Frontier with manual AC (I think it's the same as yours) and it says to remove the radio/AC center stack to replace that actuator - but is vague beyond that. I have removed the center stack before, but I didn't look to see if I could get to the actuator when I was in there. If you need instructions on doing that let me know.

The arrow at the bottom of the pic indicates the front of the truck. The red arrow points to the actuator.


324300
 

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For 100 bucks I'd have the dealer test your actuators with a consult before I'd start pulling out crap out of the dash without knowing it was bad first. SMJ99's coolant system burb should be made a sticky on every category, it is the most efficient and best step buy step description of how to properly burp the system. If you follow his instructions you can just about guarantee there's no bubbles in your system.
 
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