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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When does it happen, if it does?

I’m considering a spacer life. I have read about this but want to understand it better to make a choice.

Does it happen when just driving around on the street or is it something that happens when the front suspension drops, like when it’s hanging? Will I hear it on bumps on the street?

While I have your attention, what size rear lift with a 2” front to level it out?

Thanks y’all.
 

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Coil bucket contact is when your UCA hits your coil bucket. It will contact going over speed bumps in the parking lot. You have two easy fixes:

- Angle grinder/spray paint
- Titan swap

Someone else may chime in, but my 4" extended travel kit from Nisstec with SPC UCAs required the use of an angle grinder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Does it contact when suspension is compressed or fully extended? Sounds like when extended according to what you say.
Thanks for the response!

I’m trying to decide how much I need to worry about it. Thinking about 2” space lift, it won’t see rocky terrain. Maybe some mild mud and sand. Mostly for looks but I don’t want noisy every time I hit a bump. The occasional speed bump wouldn’t hurt.
 

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Bigger bump stops will fix coil bucket contact.
 

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Coil bucket contact is hidden by bump stops. The coil bucket is still being contacted, just with the bump stop. To stop coil bucket contact you have to upgrade the upper control arms and grind (at least in my case grind). What is happening is the upper control arm is smacking the coil bucket. As a result you have noise and limited travel. Bump stops cure the noise, but not the travel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the explanation guys. I found photos on search also. Now I understand what’s happening and why.

I also don’t see any reason grinding would hurt anything so going to go as planned and clearance it if needed later on. When the time comes anyway (gotta pay off motor/trans for my project hot rod first lol).

Fwiw, and I haven’t Gotten in and checked it out close yet, but I see no reason to worry about grinding both the a arm and coil bucket. Both have plenty metal there. Obviously, a arm would get it first as it’s easier to swap out should that be needed but there no shortage of strength in either part, it appears.
 

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Coil bucket contact is hidden by bump stops. The coil bucket is still being contacted, just with the bump stop. To stop coil bucket contact you have to upgrade the upper control arms and grind (at least in my case grind). What is happening is the upper control arm is smacking the coil bucket. As a result you have noise and limited travel. Bump stops cure the noise, but not the travel.
Yes, this is correct. For the terraian and speed bumps the op is going to see, bump stops will work fine.
 

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Thanks for the explanation guys. I found photos on search also. Now I understand what’s happening and why.

I also don’t see any reason grinding would hurt anything so going to go as planned and clearance it if needed later on. When the time comes anyway (gotta pay off motor/trans for my project hot rod first lol).

Fwiw, and I haven’t Gotten in and checked it out close yet, but I see no reason to worry about grinding both the a arm and coil bucket. Both have plenty metal there. Obviously, a arm would get it first as it’s easier to swap out should that be needed but there no shortage of strength in either part, it appears.
DO NOT GRIND THE ARM. If you are using stock upper arms, just run bump stops. If you want max travel and plan on off roading, run aftermarket arms and grind where needed on the bucket.

Yes, this is correct. For the terraian and speed bumps the op is going to see, bump stops will work fine.
You are likely right...
 

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I have ran this setup PRG Products, for over 70k miles with no problems. I never once heard coil bucket contact on any speed bump or bump I went over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks y’all. I’ll prolly do the lift (similar to invasion08’s link minus shocks) and only worry about it if i hear it and it bothers me. Thanks
 

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Does it contact when suspension is compressed or fully extended? Sounds like when extended according to what you say.
Thanks for the response!

I’m trying to decide how much I need to worry about it. Thinking about 2” space lift, it won’t see rocky terrain. Maybe some mild mud and sand. Mostly for looks but I don’t want noisy every time I hit a bump. The occasional speed bump wouldn’t hurt.
The limit of your suspension travel is traditionally constrained by bump stops. The compression travel have a big bump stop located on the lower control arm. The drop travel use to have a bump stop on the upper control arm (UCA) like the Gen1 frontier and and hardbody trucks. In modern trucks however the drop travel dump stop is incorporated into shock. In the stock suspension the the suspension drops out or completely hangs (if you jack the truck off the ground for example) the UCA is held off the coil bucket by the shock reaching its max extension and the internal bump stop holding things in place. When you add a spacer to the top of shock/spring assembly you push the position of this internal stop point lower. At 1.5" of lift the internal bump stop will still catch the suspension before CBC occurs. Anything greater than that and you will get CBC.

The higher you lift the truck with spacers the more you are positioning the suspension deeper into the drop travel, and closer the UCA is to the CB, and thus more likely CBC will occur. Remember that the suspension both compresses when you hit a bump and drops out when you drive off a curb (or the top of a speed bump). Drop travel is VERY important to how well a car rides. From the factory suspensions are set up with a minimum of 50% drop travel. In road car up to 75% of the suspension's travel is set up for drop.
 

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The limit of your suspension travel is traditionally constrained by bump stops. The compression travel have a big bump stop located on the lower control arm. The drop travel use to have a bump stop on the upper control arm (UCA) like the Gen1 frontier and and hardbody trucks. In modern trucks however the drop travel dump stop is incorporated into shock. In the stock suspension the the suspension drops out or completely hangs (if you jack the truck off the ground for example) the UCA is held off the coil bucket by the shock reaching its max extension and the internal bump stop holding things in place. When you add a spacer to the top of shock/spring assembly you push the position of this internal stop point lower. At 1.5" of lift the internal bump stop will still catch the suspension before CBC occurs. Anything greater than that and you will get CBC.

The higher you lift the truck with spacers the more you are positioning the suspension deeper into the drop travel, and closer the UCA is to the CB, and thus more likely CBC will occur. Remember that the suspension both compresses when you hit a bump and drops out when you drive off a curb (or the top of a speed bump). Drop travel is VERY important to how well a car rides. From the factory suspensions are set up with a minimum of 50% drop travel. In road car up to 75% of the suspension's travel is set up for drop.
I noticed when i looked under the fronty that the front axle is already at a 'dropped' angle, like it's 'lowered' from the factory, is it over 50% drop? w/o seeing the full range of motion I can't tell but it appears to be by first glance. Every FWD or AWD car i've had, the axles sat parallel with the ground. CVs at an angle puts more wear on them... though I've never heard of anyone complaining about premature CV wear on the Fronty but that seems odd to me that a 4x4 frontier would be set up like that from the factory. Per my (lousy) measuring it looks like a 1" lift would even out the axles to a nice parallel angle.
 

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As previously mentioned do not grind your "Stock" upper control arms.
The only reason you need to trim your coil bucket is if you have after market upper control arms and then it is only if you have the brand "SPC" upper control arms.

 

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To stop coil bucket contact you have to upgrade the upper control arms and grind (at least in my case grind).
The only reason you need to trim your coil bucket is if you have after market upper control arms and then it is only if you have the brand "SPC" upper control arms.
Wait so with SPC arms you still have to grind the bucket? Total Chaos and PRG I know clear without any hacking. I always assumed SPCs clear too...
 

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Wait so with SPC arms you still have to grind the bucket? Total Chaos and PRG I know clear without any hacking. I always assumed SPCs clear too...
Ya you have to trim / grind away a little less than a 1/4" off the bucket for max droop (the rubber boot on the ball joint hits the coil bucket and rips/gets torn)....not sure why SPC designed it this way... but it is what it is.
I wanted SPC UCA's because the sealed ball joint....As apposed the other brands with exposed heim joint style ball joints.

Its not that big of deal many of us have trimmed...just trim and paint.



 

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Wait so with SPC arms you still have to grind the bucket? Total Chaos and PRG I know clear without any hacking. I always assumed SPCs clear too...
Hrm, good to know. I was debating on switching to SPC soon.
I believe there is a spot the ball joint can catch with the Frontier SPC arms. Not an issue with the Titan SPC's.
Yes there is a spot. It catches the boot of the ball joint, and this is when the boot is maxed out as close to the coil bucket you will ever go. 10mins of work makes it so nothing ever hits. I would not let this stop you from getting these...
 

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So, I just installed a 1.5x1 spacer kit. I'm now getting what sounds like coil bucket contact.

However, it is only on the drivers side.

I've checked, and rechecked all fasteners and hardware.

I'm stumped and a little annoyed as I thought this was going to be under the threshold of cbc.
 

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So, I just installed a 1.5x1 spacer kit. I'm now getting what sounds like coil bucket contact.

However, it is only on the drivers side.

I've checked, and rechecked all fasteners and hardware.

I'm stumped and a little annoyed as I thought this was going to be under the threshold of cbc.
Here is a good coil bucket thread with pics , see post #16.
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f26/lift-coils-shocks-57853/index2.html

Look at your coil bucket for marks from the from the upper control arm hitting it?
or
Jack the front of truck up until the the tire is off the ground look to see if the upper control arm is hitting the coil bucket?

If your are getting coil bucket contact you can purchase these thin bump stops too reduce or stop the clanking noise (you may have to drill a hole in your UCA? To install these)
Upper UCA Bump Stop - Nisstec Lifts: Nissan Lift Kits: XTerra Lift Kits, Frontier Lift Kits, Titan Lift Kits, Nissan Truck Lift Kits
 
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