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Bought some new tail lights. I could use factory bulbs or LED. Chose to change to Led. Auto parts store said turn signal and tail light was same bulb, backup is different. I installed the LED, turn signals work fine, but the brake light doesn't. Tail light LED works but doesn't get brighter when brake applied. Anybody dealt with this? I can't find info on it and haven't contacted parts place yet. Didn't know if brake light/tail light is supposed to be a different LED bulb than turn signal or there is supposed to be some kind of adapter harness to make it work properly. Parts store did not mention that it needed anything special.
 

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Thanks for the link, pretty handy, nice to just enter truck info and it brings up everything I need, front and rear, and even explains things to watch out for, and ways to solve problems if they happen. Nice and simple, the way I like it.
 

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Just installed LED in tail lights. Brake light doesn't work and have hyper blink. Was told by local auto parts store that I could install a voltage reg, think that's what they called it, to solve brake light power issue. They also said I could install a resister kit on blinkers to solve hyper blink issue. Then they said I could install LEDs on front so everything would be LED, and that would resolve all issues. So I've been told a few different things. Will probably go LED on front and see what that does, and go from there.
 

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Just installed LED in tail lights. Brake light doesn't work and have hyper blink. Was told by local auto parts store that I could install a voltage reg, think that's what they called it, to solve brake light power issue. They also said I could install a resister kit on blinkers to solve hyper blink issue. Then they said I could install LEDs on front so everything would be LED, and that would resolve all issues. So I've been told a few different things. Will probably go LED on front and see what that does, and go from there.
I don't think installing all LEDs would solve hyper blinking. The resister is what puts the resistance back into the circuit so the BCM doesn't think a bulb is blown. I could be wrong but I have not heard of that method before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I give up on the LED bulbs. Found out I would have to install resistors at every bulb. I could do it but just didn't want to mess with it at this time. Did leave LED on the back up lights. They are not causing a problem and really light it up. Did install a LED third brake light. It looks good. Had to bust out a corner of the factory third brake light because the bolt thats built into light was a spinner. I couldn't remove it without doing that so I could hold the bolt to get inside the cab nut off. I would have had to eventually do that anyway if I had to replace bulbs. Good thing I had another light to install. Thanks!
 

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I give up on the LED bulbs. Found out I would have to install resistors at every bulb. I could do it but just didn't want to mess with it at this time. Did leave LED on the back up lights. They are not causing a problem and really light it up. Did install a LED third brake light. It looks good. Had to bust out a corner of the factory third brake light because the bolt thats built into light was a spinner. I couldn't remove it without doing that so I could hold the bolt to get inside the cab nut off. I would have had to eventually do that anyway if I had to replace bulbs. Good thing I had another light to install. Thanks!
You're welcome. I have LED interior bulbs and the 3rd brake light. Never installed any other LEDs on the truck other than the Morimoto fog lights. I see many new vehicles coming with LED tails, brake and turn signal lights from the factory.
 

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Found out I would have to install resistors at every bulb.
Yes, you'll need to install a pair of 6 ohm resistors for each side (installing just one resistor isn't enough to prevent hyperblink).

However, the resistors don't have to be located at every bulb - You can install both of them right next to each other.

Your front and back bulbs are connected in parallel, so it really doesn't matter where the resistors are located - You just connect both resistors in parallel, and connect them to which ever turn signal bulb wires are easiest to access.

I connected mine to the back turn signal wires, using a zip-tie to mount them in the rear fender below the brake/turn/backup light assembly.
 

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Are there any solid state relays which fit our trucks? Went that route with my car - no need to wire in resistors for the blinkers
 

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Are there any solid state relays which fit our trucks? Went that route with my car - no need to wire in resistors for the blinkers
As I understand it, the flash rate is determined by software inside the Body Control Module - not an external flasher or relay.
 

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I give up on the LED bulbs. Found out I would have to install resistors at every bulb. I could do it but just didn't want to mess with it at this time. Did leave LED on the back up lights. They are not causing a problem and really light it up. Did install a LED third brake light. It looks good. Had to bust out a corner of the factory third brake light because the bolt thats built into light was a spinner. I couldn't remove it without doing that so I could hold the bolt to get inside the cab nut off. I would have had to eventually do that anyway if I had to replace bulbs. Good thing I had another light to install. Thanks!
I have LEDs for everything EXCEPT headlights & fog lights. Brakes and turns work fine, yes I have hyperblink, but only because I haven't put the resistors in yet. I'm trying to see if I can use a 15ohm 50W resisdor instead of a pair of 6ohm 50W. I already know that a resistor parallel with a conventional bulb corrects the hyperblink. I'm not sure if the BCM measures the circuit resistance or the total load (wattage(power dissipation))
I bought my LEDs from Diode Dynamics. They had most of the bulbs listed, for the ones that weren't listed I emailed them and they told me the correct bulb to use. My reverse bulb and cargo lamp bulbs are extra bright (and throw great light) and front turn/marker lights are "switchbacks" (show white when on and amber when blinking)
The brake light is not a 'normal' 3157. The K indicates a different wiring on the 4 terminals.
 

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I'm trying to see if I can use a 15ohm 50W resisdor instead of a pair of 6ohm 50W.
Wiring two 6 ohm resistors in parallel gives you 3 ohms - So a single 3 ohm resistor is what you need.

3 ohms at 13 volts is around 56 watts.

However, the resistor only dissipates that much power during the brief instant that the bulb is on - The other half of the time while the bulb is off, the resistor doesn't dissipate any power at all. So, if you average the on- and off-times together, you're only looking at around 28 watts - which should be no problem for a 50 watt resistor to handle.
 

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Wiring two 6 ohm resistors in parallel gives you 3 ohms - So a single 3 ohm resistor is what you need.

3 ohms at 13 volts is around 56 watts.

However, the resistor only dissipates that much power during the brief instant that the bulb is on - The other half of the time while the bulb is off, the resistor doesn't dissipate any power at all. So, if you average the on- and off-times together, you're only looking at around 28 watts - which should be no problem for a 50 watt resistor to handle.
no, I understand that, but the LEDs drop that much resistance on their own. When I tried testing the conventional bulbs their initial turn-on resistance is much higher than the LEDs or the resistor so power draw should be lower. I thought I found the bulbs wattage was 25 so the total circuit should be 50, which both LEDs with a single resistor exceeds this load and should then correct the hyperblink. But I don't know if the monitor circuit is a simple parallel circuit or if its a parallel-series circuit OR more importantly if its looking for a certain power consumption or just a voltage drop.
 

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I don't know if the monitor circuit is a simple parallel circuit or if its a parallel-series circuit OR more importantly if its looking for a certain power consumption or just a voltage drop.
The typical approach is to measure the amount of current being drawn by the bulbs - If it's less than a certain amount, the software assumes that at least one of the bulbs is burnt out.

The original 7444NA front turn signal bulb draws around 1.8 amps at 13.5 volts.

The original 3156NA rear turn signal bulb draws around 2.2 amps at 13.5 volts.

So, the software is expecting to see around (1.8 + 2.2) = 4 amps from both bulbs connected in parallel.

If your resistor/LED bulb combination draws much less than that, you'll get the hyperblink problem.
 
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