Nissan Frontier Forum banner

Supercharged 04 - Awaiting Next Issue

14916 Views 72 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  TxDayTrader
Howdy,

I've had my titled truck for almost three years. Here's the story:

I bought a janky house, scored a good deal on a cool chameleon d21, and learned how to fly a paramotor. Everything was going great! Then I got a dog. A big-*** doodle dog. He's a daily shop creature who quickly outgrew the single cab in that little d21.
325339



Winter came and I had forgotten that the little truck needed a new heater core. Have I mentioned I'm in Indiana? We have winter. That was a terribly frustrating job in the bitter cold and the dashboard was completely roached. I began to sour on the little truck.
325332



I also began fantasizing about driving long distance to fly. That would require something with a few more creature comforts and more power than the mini-truck and mighty ka24e had to offer.
325333
325338



One of my worst habits is browsing Craigslist. It's cost me thousands of dollars and hours upon hours of frustration. I had decided to shop for Frontiers since I'm not a big dude, don't want a big truck, and I guess I'm a Nissan guy by the number of s12s I've owned + the hardbody. Problem was, all the Frontiers were out of my price range and I don't do auto loans.
325334



After talking myself out of a lifted and boosted Honda CRV (it was really cool - wish I had a picture), I kept shopping and finally stumbled across this truck about an hour and a half away from my house. I think the listing was $8,700 which was still well outside my price range. Normally I would have let it slide and kept shopping and saving, but on a whim I decided to offer my little truck in trade + basically all my cash.

Surprisingly, the guy said yes. He was trying to eliminate a car payment and still wanted a truck in the fleet. He even agreed to meet halfway. My little d21 made the drive down some backroads to a gas station where I handed over the keys and all the cash I owned. Here's the truck fueling up for the drive home. 4x4, 5 speed, short bed with a rebuilt title.121,000 miles. It's the newest and nicest vehicle I've owned.
325335



It's been reliable as heck and I've enjoyed doing little things that make it a lot better. I even towed for my first time a few weekends back. It went well enough except for the obvious lack of power on the highway. Frontier isn't pictured but I promise it's connected to that trailer.
325336



I've told myself a million times that I'm going to leave this truck alone, and to a large extent I have. I've changed the oil, spark plugs, head lights, added speaker, subwoofer, remote start, tonneau cover, new tires, replaced a door hinge, window motor, dashboard LEDs, reverse light switch, backup camera..... and I think that's it.

However!! I am a fool. After towing with the truck it has become clear that I will no longer be able to leave it alone. I had been passively shopping down this path for some time, and I don't want to consider a new truck right now. It also seems that Nissan doesn't make the shorty 4x4 crew cab 5 speed Frontier in the configuration I'm after. Or if they did, it's in limited numbers. I like everything about this truck except for its juice.


I lowballed a seller a week or two ago just to pretend that I tried and maybe buy myself another year or two of stock goodness. Then, this popped up for almost the same price as my lowball -- including shipping.
325337



So the plan is to get this motor, tear it down, and have the parts ready to go onto my truck whenever my convertible is back on the road. I understand the differences between my motor and the supercharged motor but I'm not too worried about it. Seems like enough people have done it without blowing up their NA motors. I'll use the SC injectors and hope for the best. If it does go poorly I'll have a backup engine.

The main thing pushing me to use the original motor is an inability to find a 4x4, manual, supercharged ECU. Again, if Nissan made any in that configuration it wasn't in large numbers. I would love it if somebody could prove me wrong and provide a part number for an ECU that will work with the truck I'm hoping to build.

Right now I've got a tracking number and a dream. This project may not officially kick off for a couple months or even years, but I've been lurking this forum enough to make an account and an introduction.

Glad to meet y'all. This forum has helped me a bunch already.

Best,
Kelso
See less See more
8
  • Like
Reactions: 2
1 - 20 of 73 Posts
Today I (hopefully) fixed a power steering leak and also added a hood strut. I had tried this last weekend and gave up after realizing the kit wasn't made for my truck despite Ebay saying it was compatible. Bonnet Hood Shock Lift Struts Bar Support Arm Gas Spring For Nissan Frontier USA | eBay

Used both lower sections of the install kit on the same side and drilled a hole where I thought was right. I got close, but the hood doesn't open as far as it does on the prop so I'll have to ovulate the bottom bracket and shove it closer to the vertex of the hinge. Once that alignment is set I'll add the second hood strut using the remaining pieces from the kit. I think I can see how to cut them up and make a mirror of the left side.
328606


One strut does hold the hood up but it doesn't take much to bring it back down. Two will be just right
328605


Video of them in operation and some unnecessary rambling:
See less See more
2
Those do look much more professional. As they should for three times the price!

I've definitely visited your build thread before. Any tips or links for the EZ Down tailgate assist?
Truck randomly started overheating so yesterday I did the timing belt, water pump, and thermostat. Still overheating and the radiator stays cold while the upper rad hose is hot.

Hoping it's just an air bubble but I'm picking up a new radiator today anyway.

I also put on the crank pulley from the supercharged engine just to have that part of the swap done in advance. For the record, it does work fine on an NA motor.

Also, removing the crank pulley is possible with a 3 jaw puller by removing the 27mm crank bolt, removing the big washer (MANDATORY), then threading the bolt back in a couple threads and using the head of the crank bolt as your center. You will have to hold the head of the crank bolt with some pliers while you work the puller. You will crack your pulley if the big washer isn't removed before attempting to use the puller. Trust me.

I would have used the proper puller but I didn't have a 6mm bolt to thread into the pulley and the kit I rented didn't have any either.
See less See more
The hose that comes up off of the thermostat was still leaking. Spent all day tearing it down and changing, and in a moment of frustration made the boneheaded call to not RTV something. Now it's leaking worse than before, and I've gotta tear it back down again.

What's additionally disheartening is the fact that I still have a coolant leak somewhere in the complex of hoses that come off the back of the head, so when I get the leak on the front fixed I still won't be able to drive it.

I'm torn between sending it to a shop and having them fix the leak on the back of the motor or accepting my fate and beginning the SC swap. If the intake manifold has to come off to do that dang coolant hose, I may as well replace it with the supercharger, right?
Just installed new glass run rubber on both sides and my windows no longer rattle. Huge win.

AC Compressor not pictured. Crank pulley is already installed from the recent timing belt job. Spaghetti belt should arrive sometime this week so we could have liftoff next weekend. Sooner if I get antsy.

Planning to run the stock 4x4 5 speed n/a ECU unless somebody chimes in and convinces me otherwise. May hook up a wideband for piece of mind if/when it's running.

333518


See less See more
I've got that same setup i need to put on my n/a. Just try both ECU's n see which one you like best.
I'm trying to avoid buying another ECU if I can get away with it.
Also, If you sign up to this Frotniter D22 FB Group: Facebook Groups

You can get parts on there. I needed just the snout for the SuperCharger. I made a post asking if anybody had one and within the first day somebody sold me one and threw in the whole SC with it for $100 shipped. I see people asking for parts a lot on there and people reply quickly saying they have the part.

EDIT:
Just searched eBay for the SC Computer. Theres a dozen or so on there but the cheapeast was $63 from LKQ which is a very reputable junkyard. It'll come with a warranty. If it doesn't work they'll give you a full refund.

Complete Search Results:

Pretty sure I've seen those three videos at least ten times. Great info and the dude is a hero. I do wonder if you actually need the longer accelerator cable. That's another risk I'm taking.

Also big thanks for the links to the ECUs. Do you/anyone know if 4x4 is controlled by the ECU?
Well, I'm reassembling my engine and the realized that my 04 N/A vehicle has an EGR valve that the donor supercharged engine did not. Gonna have to figure out how to plug that bad boy.

Also a couple pesky coolant line/vacuum line questions lingering, but it's happening. If I can stay motivated I could have it up and running by the end of this weekend.
333699


Here's where I left it just now. Taking a break and going to find a plug for the EGR (24mm socket to remove, btw) and the little plastic intake extension box thing.

Still not sure how I'm going to reattach the two coolant lines at the back of the engine to the intake piece yet to go on, but that's a problem for future me. Also some spare vacuum lines to figure out.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Pretty much done and it turns over but won't start. I can hear the fuel pump prime, confirmed spark, confirmed plug wire locations on the dizzy. Maybe the distributor is stabbed 180 off? I did remove it.

If/when I get it running I'll throw in some coolant and pray that it doesn't leak somewhere that means I need to tear it all down again.

333773


I've got two mystery plugs that don't have a home. One went to the (now deleted) EGR and the other is truly unknown. I also have my knock sensor floating in space until I mount it somewhere more accessible.
333768
See less See more
2
It runs! Had to manually set the timing using the crank bolt and then stab the distributor with the rotor as close to where the cylinder #1 plug post would be on the cap. Boom.

There was a TERRIBLE knocking sound when I first fired it up. Like, a bolt in the cylinder sound. Turns out I left the ratchet on the crank bolt and at was having a little concert down there. Once it fell off it ran like a dream.

There's a little dead spot if you come into the throttle too hard. Wonder if I need to adjust the distributor some more. I set it close to the middle because I don't know which direction is advance/retard.
Just drove it a couple miles. Holds temp and doesn't seem to be leaking any coolant.

I think it's a little peppier? Definitely not an earthshattering performance improvement (expected) and I can't hear any blower sounds which is a shame.

Also confirmed a knock sensor code so I'll have to do the relocation mod and see if it goes away. Otherwise I'll be looking into the supercharger bypass delete mod people seem to have had success with.
Ordered a new knock sensor from RockAuto.

Mine is reading ~315k ohms and I believe I'm supposed to be seeing ~500k ohms resistance? The outside housing is cracked so it's not a bad idea to replace regardless.
Where is Torque getting the MAP readings from? Do y'all think this 9.7psi is a realistic value?

I was suprised to see vacuum turn into boost today while driving. Still don't feel any boost whatsoever while I'm waiting for my knock sensor.

333891
See less See more
Installed the new knock sensor, cleared codes, and still no performance improvement. Confirmed the only codes are EGR related which makes sense because I just removed all that.

Hmm..... Has anyone been here before? Is this what makes people do a supercharger bypass delete?
Why has my last post not been approved by moderation? It's already an echo chamber in here!

I found lots of good information on an xterra website which led me to expose the lower port on the bypass valve to atmosphere. Now I've got the typical "spoons in the engine" sound of a faulty bypass valve. New part has been ordered.
...Bueller? Bueller??

Hit my truck with a timing light and learned it was at 0 degrees. Bumped that up to 15 degrees BTDC and now it's is downright spritely. There's actually a reason to put your foot into it.

Not sure about gas mileage, I'm sure it's worse. I do know premium gas was like $0.70 more expensive today.

Why did I do this again? Just kidding.... it's fun. Wish I could hear the blower more though!

Edit: This is the info I wanted to include in a post lost to moderation.... Note #2 which applies to NA vehicles was something I needed to read

SC Swap list:
What you need working from the Throttle body to the SC to the heads and down

-Throttle, for backup, plus throttle cable. (plus MAF for backup)
-Brake Booster Line (slightly different shape and possibly different valve location)
-Intake tube (from throttle to blower, plus all the tubing connected under the intake, (vacuum and coolant hoses)
-pcv valve and hose from SC see note 1
-Blower and attached bypass valve
-Intake adapter
-Fuel Rail and injectors with it. (pull the fuel rail, injectors are attached to the rail, and grab all the little o-rings and plastic spacers)
-Intake manifold

-Boost Control Solenoid (BCS) ..................see note 2
-Pulley Bridge for AC/blower plus belt if it looks okay.
-A/C Compressor (ACC) .............see note 3
-Harmonic Balancer ...............see note 3
-ECM .............note 4
..........................................................................................................................................................................................
..........................................................................................................................................................................................
-Note 1: The PCV valve on the NA motor is attached directly to the intake plenum, on the SC engine it's attached to the passenger side valve cover. You can either pull the cover or make a homemade PCV line with two pieces of tubing. The homemade line is what I did and it runs fine.
..........................................................................................................................................................................................
-Note 2: You don't actually NEED the BCS, the reason I put it on the list is for people that don't want a constant Check Engine Light (CEL). If you swap the ECM, and you should, it will look for the BCS and when it doesn't see it, it will throw a code for serial link fault and/or turbo something or other. For daily operation it is absolutely fine to run the blower from only vacuum and atmospheric pressure to regulate the blower bypass. You will want to make sure you always run quality 92+ octane though as the ECM will have no way of limiting the boost if it needs to go into limp mode (ie for misfire or knocking).
..........................................................................................................................................................................................
-Note 3: I've been told from someone who did the swap before me that you can run the S/C off the stock balancer and ac compressor by using a GM belt. I have more recently heard that the pulleys (NA and SC) are different sizes on the balancer and will cause a different pulley ratio for the blower. You can measure this to confirm, I have not. That being said it is recommended that you use the 6 rib balancer and ACC pulley, especially if you upgrade pulley sizes or switch to a solid coupler (which almost every reman kit uses).
..........................................................................................................................................................................................
-Note 4: Regarding the ECM, I've been told the NA ECM will run the blower fine, but very rich at idle. If you drive almost all highway it wouldn't be a problem but if you do any real amount of stop and go or city driving (or offroading) it's recommended to get the SC ECM so you aren't running a rich idle, plus the fuel maps are designed for boost. I've heard from other sources that the NA ECM can act ufcky when it sees boost. My suggestion is to swap to the SC ECM Either way you will get a CEL, the above mentiond BCS or a EGR Valve for 02-04 NA ECMs.
..........................................................................................................................................................................................
Note 5: Unless you get a fresh reman SC, and I don't know if they are available, you will most certainly need whatever donor SC you find rebuilt, either yourself or sent out. If you do it yourself the Cobalt SS uses the same inner parts according to what I've read in the D22 SC group. My rotors weren't bad enough for me to send them out or to buy new. I personally got a full rebuild kit from the UK and only needed to replace the coupler, oil and needle bearings. If you are comfortable with engines and porting/polishing you can follow some youtube videos to learn how to port and polish the blower so it runs more efficiently and slightly cooler. Be careful though, if you widen the outlet too much you'll lose boost, if you widen it just enough you'll run a bit cooler.
..........................................................................................................................................................................................
Note 5a: If you rebuild the blower yourself, DO NOT drain the oil anywhere except a garage, shed or outside. The used oil is by far the worst smelling substance on planet earth. This is NOT an over exaggeration
..........................................................................................................................................................................................
Note 6:
You can use a UHMWPE intake spacer for an NA motor for the SC, you just need to modify it slightly to fit the SC pattern, i've seen the pics of this myself. You'll need longer bolts for the intake adapter and possibly a body lift (or cut a hole in the hood)
..........................................................................................................................................................................................
Note 7: I only had this happen to 1 bolt during my entire install, but one of my intake bolts yielded during install and nearly broke off in the intake manifold. Make sure you inspect all the bolts you pull and tighten everything in 3 phases even if the FSM doesn't say to. Finger tight, 1/2 spec, full spec.
You can hear the blower more if you went with an aftermarket short ram intake if I remember reading some threads on here. I'm keeping my truck as factory as possible in the engine bay. Don't have as much time as I use to tinkering with my vehicles...

Btw, welcome to clubfrontier from club-s12 ; ) I'm sure you're still on club-s12 since you still have yours.
Ayyyy! There's still a few of us kicking around on club-s12. Not nearly as many as I'd like though.

You're wise to preserve that stock goodness. I greatly enjoyed it while it lasted.

I'll look into a cold air intake that doesn't look too janky. We do have way too many things coming off of the stock snout.
1 - 20 of 73 Posts
Top