Nissan Frontier Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well I had some overheating problems about a year ago, thought I had it taken care of months ago then recently when I was driving at highway speeds the temp needle started climbing. Turned on the heat and it stayed steady but didn't go back to normal op temp until i got off the highway. Running around town its fine, can idle for hours without a problem.
I have replaced the thermostat, had the system flushed and a pressure test done, all about 8 months ago.
I don't think its a heat transfer or circulation problem, the heater works fine and doesnt overheat in traffic or idling.
Fan clutch seems to be ok, no free spinning or play.

So....radiator? Im about at ends wit here. no symptoms of busted head gasket.

its a 2005 with 70K on it.

IDEAS PLZ! :confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,410 Posts
this may sound like a stupid question but how well does your heat work with your truck just sitting at idle. does it blow really hot even when sitting still or does it seem to blow colder or pretty much completely cold when sitting still. if it tends to go cold then you may have quite a bit of air in your system. with enough air in the system when sitting still it has a tendency to collect in the heater core making the heat not blow hot when at idle. when you start driving it forces the air out of the heater core and it enters the general circulation causing hot pockets and the over all displacement of coolant (meaning your actually pretty low even if the reservoir is reading normal which will cause your temp to rise. i've had it get this far on my z and its known that our frontiers have problems with air in the system as well, which is why there are a half a million posts about heaters not blowing hot at idle. now if these aren't your symptoms then sorry i'm no help. best of luck with it all
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
637 Posts
I would think that it may have something to do with the fan clutch.

Are you an auto? If so I would replace the radiator regardless as the earlier models tend to have issues with the internal tranny coolers leaking.

With BMW's it was recommended to replace the radiator every 75k or so as preventative maintenence. They tend to crack and can leave you stranded on the side of the road in a heartbeat.

Radiatorbarn.com has radiators for a reasonable price, I think around $150ish shipped. One member on here used one with good results.

Cheap insurance either way. A few hundred bucks could save you from catastrophic engine damage from overheating, or catastrophic tranny damage from a tranny cooler leak.

Just my $.02
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,551 Posts
also is your radiator clean see in mud in your avatar, i'd make sure your radiator is nice and clean before going crazy with other stuff, then a fluid flush never hurts. then if you still have the problem look into the other issues
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,939 Posts
take off the grill and wash out your rad. it could have places with mud/dirt caked in spots causing hot spots. also check your fan and fan clutch are running smoothly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,097 Posts
The symptom you describe point to the radiator as the culprit. It could also be the T-Stat, but you've already changed that. At highway speeds, there should be enough airflow through the radiator to remove the heat so it cannot be the clutch.

With a cold engine, open up the radiator cap and look inside. If it is crappy then you have a fouled radiator. Clean it or buy a new one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,742 Posts
FAn doesnt do anything at highway speeds...ram air provides all cooling....try bleeding the coolant system - colin is right it could just be an air pocket....but you would notice the truck not heating (HVAC) while idling if that were the case....

Taking out the radiator is not too big of a deal. undo 4 hoses ( auto lines and of course rad lines) and two bolts. Undo the tranny cooler if ya got one or bring it with. Wash it off and wash it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,048 Posts
I agree w/the radiador being the problem and Radiatorbarn.com is the place to get one. Wouldn't hurt to bleed the system first, just to see.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
appreciate all the help guys.

yes my truck has seen plenty of mud. None in about 9 months though. I have washed out the rad with it in the truck, couldnt believe the amount of crap I got out of it. I am really leaning towards this as the problem.

Yes my heather blows hot when warming up in the morn at idle. I have burped the system more times and I can count.

I'm going to pick up a rad and see if that does the trick...if not then at least i know its done. trouble shooting cooling issues is such a pain!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Not Fixed!

well my radiator from the barn came in, nice unit...install was pretty straight forward and easy. def helps to have 2 sets of hands.

burped the system real good took her out for a highway drive today...

It is still heating up but not nearly as much as before...and is going back to its normal spot faster.
Its wierd...almost like the t-stat is opening at 180, closing when it wants, then opening again when it wants to bring temps back to normal.

it never gets into the holly crap i better stop and shut this thing down temp range, but the temp doesnt hold steady like it should and its bugging the piss out of me.

called napa got a T-stat on order.

There needs to be a auto parts store that is specific to foriegn vehicles, so we dont have to order everything!!!!
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top