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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally got my stock head unit to work well with bluetooth. I've decided I want to keep it.

A while back, someone told me that unless I upgrade my head unit, I won't see much in terms of improvement with new speakers. Does this hold true even if I add an amp to the setup?

If I have to add a new head unit which is the best for the money? I prefer something with Android if possible.
 

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I kept my my stock head unit, and upgraded all my speakers, added two amps. One for the door speakers and one for the two 12'' subs I added, totaling right about 900 watts. I wanted to keep the original head unit for a couple reasons, cost being biggest. That and not having to rewire as much in the dash, for the steering wheel controls and blue tooth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I kept my my stock head unit, and upgraded all my speakers, added two amps. One for the door speakers and one for the two 12'' subs I added, totaling right about 900 watts. I wanted to keep the original head unit for a couple reasons, cost being biggest. That and not having to rewire as much in the dash, for the steering wheel controls and blue tooth.
Did you notice a dramatic improvement over the stock speaker setup?

I don't plan to put in a sub unless it is a stealthy small one.

I'm mainly looking for a bit more bass out of the speakers, more volume, and less distortion.
 

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Adding an amp won't make the sound better, just louder. So if the sound is flat and tinny, it'll still be flat and tinny - just a louder flat and tinny. And good luck getting bass out of the stock 3w speakers.

I tell people this a million times here, and I still have to - it all starts with the source (the head unit).
 

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With the stock head unit, I noticed a extreme improvement in the sound due to the quality of the converter and the quality of the amps. Now take into consideration that I really do not use the radio or CD player. I plug my phone into the auxiliary port. But it still has to go through the head unit. I am not saying a new head unit will not help with sound quality, but the amps do make a big difference in the quality of the sound, and how they are tuned and setup. The MTX people are great to work with and helped me on a few occasions. Every upgrade you make will improve the sound some, it just depends on how much improvement you are looking for. Either way good luck with your project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
With the stock head unit, I noticed a extreme improvement in the sound due to the quality of the converter and the quality of the amps. Now take into consideration that I really do not use the radio or CD player. I plug my phone into the auxiliary port. But it still has to go through the head unit. I am not saying a new head unit will not help with sound quality, but the amps do make a big difference in the quality of the sound, and how they are tuned and setup. The MTX people are great to work with and helped me on a few occasions. Every upgrade you make will improve the sound some, it just depends on how much improvement you are looking for. Either way good luck with your project.
Thanks for the info.
 

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The OEM head unit (HU) is set up to protect the anemic stock speakers as the volume goes up by strangling the signal.
As raine opined, start w/ the source/HU and work outward for best results.
 

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The OEM head unit (HU) is set up to protect the anemic stock speakers as the volume goes up by strangling the signal.
As raine opined, start w/ the source/HU and work outward for best results.
^This.

An regular amplifier has one job - to amplify whatever frequencies it gets from the head unit. The OEM head unit only puts out a narrow, limited range of frequencies. Adding amps and speakers to the OEM head unit won't magically give you added sound quality - it just makes the limited range of frequencies louder; that's all an amplifier does.

Louder doesn't = higher quality.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That's unfortunate. At this point in time, I don't plan to upgrade the head unit. I don't want to spend the money and it also seems like a complicated install. Down the road, I may choose to upgrade.
 

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You don't have to get some high end head stuff to get better sound... just an example: you can get a Pioneer head unit and use its built-in amp to drive a set of Rockford Fosgate 6.5" components up front - all for under $200. It won't be super high-end, but you get your bluetooth capability AND it'll also give you much better, louder, and (most importantly) noticeably clearer sound, compared to sticking with the OEM head unit and just upgrading the speakers.
 

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Stereo Upgrades

I had upgraded my factory head unit to a Pioneer unit (MVH-X690BS) and upgraded all the door speakers (front: JBL 6x9 three ways and rear: Kenwood 6.5 two ways). I was still not happy so I added a powered subwoofer (Sound Ordnance B-8PTD). Everything sounds great except for the dash speakers (very loud). I removed them and it sounded worst. I read some way on this forum about using full range speakers in the dash. I purchased some Peerless 2.5 full speakers and installed them. I set the Pioneer high filter at 80 MHz for front and rear speaker and the low filter on the powered subwoofer at 90 MHz. The sound was so clear and perfect. Even if you play the music loud it still sounds great. The Peerless speakers are 8 ohms which makes it perfect for the 4 ohms front speakers.
 

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I had upgraded my factory head unit to a Pioneer unit (MVH-X690BS) and upgraded all the door speakers (front: JBL 6x9 three ways and rear: Kenwood 6.5 two ways). I was still not happy so I added a powered subwoofer (Sound Ordnance B-8PTD). Everything sounds great except for the dash speakers (very loud). I removed them and it sounded worst. I read some way on this forum about using full range speakers in the dash. I purchased some Peerless 2.5 full speakers and installed them. I set the Pioneer high filter at 80 MHz for front and rear speaker and the low filter on the powered subwoofer at 90 MHz. The sound was so clear and perfect. Even if you play the music loud it still sounds great. The Peerless speakers are 8 ohms which makes it perfect for the 4 ohms front speakers.
Hrm... just wondering:

1. When you said "everything sounded great except for the dash speakers", what dash speaker did you have at that time (before installing the Peerless)?

2. Are both front speakers (door and dash) running off the same channel from the head unit?

3. Are you using external filters, or just the internal crossover for the front channel for both front speakers?

4. I'm curious, can you explain why you said the 8-ohm Peerless is "perfect" for the 4-ohm front JBLs?
 

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The dash speakers were the factory tweeters. I'm using the crossover on the Pioneer unit for all the door speakers. For the sub woofer I'm using the crossover on the powered sub woofer. I didn't change the wiring on the front speakers so the dash and front speakers are wired together (Parallel). So two things happen one the ohms with dash and front speakers add up to almost 3 ohms which is better for the Pioneer head unit and second the speakers with the higher Ohms gets less power (Dash 34% and the front door speakers about 66%). With the factory tweeters the Ohms were 4 which caused the tweeters to receive 50% of the power and play very loud. Hopefully this was helpful and if I'm wrong let me know.
 

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That makes sense, your aftermarket HU is rated at 50w x [email protected], the stock dash speakers are rated at [email protected], no wonder they sounded bad LOL

Is the peerless you're using the #830984?
 

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Try raising the high-pass to 120Hz, should make it sound even better - the frequency response on those Peerless are 100Hz-10kHz, you're already outside the range at 80Hz
 

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The reason I keep at 80hz is because the front door speakers are running off the same line.
Well it was just a suggestion... considering you have a subwoofer, there's no need for the main speakers to have to be forced to put out 120Hz-lower... if you raise the X/O point and let the sub do all the low end work, the mains will reproduce the mids and highs much clearer since they don't have to slow down for every sub-120Hz note.
 
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