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Looking to upgrade my stereo in the future to a Sony XAVAX1000, are there any mods I have to complete to work with the Rockford Fosgate system in my 2018 Pro4X? Anything I will lose completing the switch? Also looking for the best Steering control adapter.

Thanks,
Sam
 

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In case you want total command of accessing your rear camera view, you might inquire as to whether your chosen head unit allows this? Some will only allow this when actually in reverse. .02
 
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Don’t have to lose anything. All you need to do to retain the fosgate amp is to splice the 8 speaker wires to 4 RCA jacks and then plug them into the head unit.

I recommend getting the Nissan/Subaru 20 pin harness from Amazon, NOT the Metra product. The ones on Amazon will have the wires for VSS and steering wheel control hookup.

Highly recommend the maestro RR for steering wheel functionality, and it also has some neat and handy OBDII features as well.

to retain backup camera you will need the AX-NIS24SWC-6V. I would suggest wiring it’s power to ignition, not reverse, so that the camera is always on. And can be viewed anytime.
 

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Thanks for the insight. I was wondering if you could explain a bit further on what you mean by or point me in the direction of a how to when you say splice the 8 speaker wires to 4 RCA jacks and why do this.
Sorry if it’s a noob question, but figured I’d ask for everyone’s benefit. I have the same Rockford 6 speaker set up on my 2012 with an Alpine ILX-w650…and I am running into issues with noise when volume goes from 0 to 1 even when nothing is playing. Sounds like white noise. I’ve tested grounds and everything seems OK. Next step would be to try this wire splicing…

thanks in advance.


Don’t have to lose anything. All you need to do to retain the fosgate amp is to splice the 8 speaker wires to 4 RCA jacks and then plug them into the head unit.

I recommend getting the Nissan/Subaru 20 pin harness from Amazon, NOT the Metra product. The ones on Amazon will have the wires for VSS and steering wheel control hookup.

Highly recommend the maestro RR for steering wheel functionality, and it also has some neat and handy OBDII features as well.

to retain backup camera you will need the AX-NIS24SWC-6V. I would suggest wiring it’s power to ignition, not reverse, so that the camera is always on. And can be viewed anytime.
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The 8 speaker wires are powered by the OEM head unit with the proper signals the amps wants to see to power and play the speakers with.

When you buy an aftermarket radio plug adapter, the wires will be in that plug. The instinctive decision is to hook all the wire connections up straight to the aftermarket radio. Problem is, the amplified RF system does not want to see high level speaker inputs from the aftermarket head unit. Instead, the solution is to splice RCA plugs onto the 8 speaker wires and then plug the RCAs into the low level RCA ports on the back of the unit.

Here's an example of what I mean (Rockford Fosgate RFI2SW):

Audio equipment Cable Font Wire Jewellery


Every RCA jack itself is two conductors, hence the two wires per each. There are 4 generic speaker locations in a vehicle (front left, front right, rear left, rear right) so you will typically have 8 speaker wires in the stock radio wiring. Your adapter plug that you use to connect the stock radio wiring to the aftermarket radio wiring will contain those 8 wires, but rather than hooking them up to the aftermarket radio pigtail, you splice on RCA jacks like pictured above and then plug the RCAs into the radio. So you would need two of the Rockford fosgate RCA kits pictured above to do all 8 speaker wires / 4 RCA jacks. You would plug them into the front and rear ports of the aftermarket stereo, you would NOT plug anything into the subwoofer port. The stock RF system decides what signals to send to the subwoofer on it's own based on the signals it receives through the other 8 wires.

In my experience, after doing this, I needed ground loop isolators (2 of them) between the radio and the RCA jacks I made. Low level speaker signals from an aftermarket head unit are very prone to picking up electrical noise. The radio wires from the factory run in a thick bundle with a bunch of other wires and are not designed to be low level inputs. Crimping on RCA jacks converts them to be low level so they naturally pick up noise. Ground loop isolators like the PAC SNI1 solved the problem for me. You need two of them, and you plug one in between the front jacks and one in between the rear jacks. The radio area had plenty of room for them to be plugged in and tucked down into the dash.

Finally, here's a pic from my radio project and the custom harness I made. You can see the 8 colored wires branching off of the white radio plug, spliced to RCA jacks, then plugged into the ground loop isolators, and then I plugged the isolators into the radio. The setup works great with no issues for two trucks 1.5 years and 35K miles total now.

Eyewear Textile Wood Audio equipment Font
 

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2012 CC SL 4x4, ADO 5100/HD coils & Broverland Leafs, SPC UCAs, 33” Toyo OC AT3’s
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The 8 speaker wires are powered by the OEM head unit with the proper signals the amps wants to see to power and play the speakers with.

When you buy an aftermarket radio plug adapter, the wires will be in that plug. The instinctive decision is to hook all the wire connections up straight to the aftermarket radio. Problem is, the amplified RF system does not want to see high level speaker inputs from the aftermarket head unit. Instead, the solution is to splice RCA plugs onto the 8 speaker wires and then plug the RCAs into the low level RCA ports on the back of the unit.

Here's an example of what I mean (Rockford Fosgate RFI2SW):

View attachment 346209

Every RCA jack itself is two conductors, hence the two wires per each. There are 4 generic speaker locations in a vehicle (front left, front right, rear left, rear right) so you will typically have 8 speaker wires in the stock radio wiring. Your adapter plug that you use to connect the stock radio wiring to the aftermarket radio wiring will contain those 8 wires, but rather than hooking them up to the aftermarket radio pigtail, you splice on RCA jacks like pictured above and then plug the RCAs into the radio. So you would need two of the Rockford fosgate RCA kits pictured above to do all 8 speaker wires / 4 RCA jacks. You would plug them into the front and rear ports of the aftermarket stereo, you would NOT plug anything into the subwoofer port. The stock RF system decides what signals to send to the subwoofer on it's own based on the signals it receives through the other 8 wires.

In my experience, after doing this, I needed ground loop isolators (2 of them) between the radio and the RCA jacks I made. Low level speaker signals from an aftermarket head unit are very prone to picking up electrical noise. The radio wires from the factory run in a thick bundle with a bunch of other wires and are not designed to be low level inputs. Crimping on RCA jacks converts them to be low level so they naturally pick up noise. Ground loop isolators like the PAC SNI1 solved the problem for me. You need two of them, and you plug one in between the front jacks and one in between the rear jacks. The radio area had plenty of room for them to be plugged in and tucked down into the dash.

Finally, here's a pic from my radio project and the custom harness I made. You can see the 8 colored wires branching off of the white radio plug, spliced to RCA jacks, then plugged into the ground loop isolators, and then I plugged the isolators into the radio. The setup works great with no issues for two trucks 1.5 years and 35K miles total now.

View attachment 346210
This is awesome; great write up and pic. I want to thank you for taking the time to explain this further.
 

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You are welcome. I had a shop install my stereo in my first truck and they said they hooked it up to the actual speaker wiring first, and said with the radio at volume 10/40 they nearly blew the speakers. Changed it over to the RCA method and it was good to go.

It's surely not quite as ideal as a complete replacement stereo with a new amp, sub, and all new speakers, but if you want to keep it sounding mostly stock yet upgrade the head unit, this is 100% the way to go. In other words, this keeps it sounding good enough that it's not like the head unit screwed up the balance of the stock system. if anything, the clearer audio signals from the aftermarket head unit made mine sound a bit better than stock. I have no regrets and I've run this way a while now. No plans to change things unless RF speakers or amp start dying.
 

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You are welcome. I had a shop install my stereo in my first truck and they said they hooked it up to the actual speaker wiring first, and said with the radio at volume 10/40 they nearly blew the speakers. Changed it over to the RCA method and it was good to go.

It's surely not quite as ideal as a complete replacement stereo with a new amp, sub, and all new speakers, but if you want to keep it sounding mostly stock yet upgrade the head unit, this is 100% the way to go. In other words, this keeps it sounding good enough that it's not like the head unit screwed up the balance of the stock system. if anything, the clearer audio signals from the aftermarket head unit made mine sound a bit better than stock. I have no regrets and I've run this way a while now. No plans to change things unless RF speakers or amp start dying.
Again thanks for your help. I did have one follow up question. I got (2) noise isolators and (2) RF high level to RCA as you indicated. I got the Noise Isolators hooked up to the back of the HU. However i am not sure where it would be best to splice the wiring to RCA on Metra 70-7550 harness...

Apologies for the mess of wires!

First pic below shows noise isolators connected to back of HU (rear our and front out). Second and third picture show locations i am thinking would be options: either right after power connector in back of radio or towards end of harness... I would be following wiring diagrams to match 8 cables to 8 wires on harness.

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Again thanks for your help. I did have one follow up question. I got (2) noise isolators and (2) RF high level to RCA as you indicated. I got the Noise Isolators hooked up to the back of the HU. However i am not sure where it would be best to splice the wiring to RCA on Metra 70-7550 harness...

Apologies for the mess of wires!

First pic below shows noise isolators connected to back of HU (rear our and front out). Second and third picture show locations i am thinking would be options: either right after power connector in back of radio or towards end of harness... I would be following wiring diagrams to match 8 cables to 8 wires on harness.

View attachment 348633

View attachment 348634

View attachment 348635
the 8 speaker wires from your adapter plugs that you spliced to the radio, those need to be spliced to the ground loop isolator output instead. You don’t want any vehicle speaker wiring coming from the aftermarket head unit, only RCAs.
 

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the 8 speaker wires from your adapter plugs that you spliced to the radio, those need to be spliced to the ground loop isolator output instead. You don’t want any vehicle speaker wiring coming from the aftermarket head unit, only RCAs.
Thanks. So location shown on picture 3, correct?
 
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