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Discussion Starter #1
Here's the chronology of the mods I did, when the problems started, and the result of each "solution". If anyone could provide any insight I would much appreciate it!!!

1. Stock Truck, 2012 Pro 4x, stock wheels, BFG AT 265/75/16's
2. 2.5" Ready Lift added, same wheels and tires, no issues - shop 1
3. Now lifted, added 16x8 Level 8 wheels, and BFG KO2 285/75/16's
4. Shakes at 60-75 mph
5. Took it back to the shop 1 - re balanced tires
6. Still shakes
7. Took to shop 2, re balanced tires - was told there was a defect in tire
8. Still shakes
9. Called BFG warranty, they told me to go to shop 3 to evaluate the tire
10. Shop 3 evaluates all tires - no defect, the re balance all the tires and tell me there is no issue with any of the wheels or tires.
11. Still shakes

12. Losing my mind, shaking in my truck :surprise:


What gives, has anyone had this problem??

Possible solutions...drive shaft imbalance or u-joints? How can I check these?


Thanks in advance all!
 

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I'd see if someone will switch wheels and tires with you for a day to see if is the wheel tire combo. I didn't see an alignment in that list. That would be the next step if tire swap does not help.
 

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How many miles on the truck?

Is the vibration in the steering wheel or in the seat of your pants? Does it change if you swap tires front to back?

How are these shops reinstalling the wheels? Is it a tire monkey who is blasting the lugs on with an impact gun or are they hand tightening? If you have ever paid close attention when putting a wheel on by hand, the wheel does move around a bit as you snug things up. AN over aggressive person with an impact can get things not seated right even with conical lug nuts.
 

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Improper wheel torque can warp rotors and hubs though these seem like fairly thick metal hubs. Switch front to rear and see if if the vibration goes away or changes. Check wheel bearings. Did you have any vibration on the old tires and were they the same wheels? Jack the truck up high enough to barely clear the concrete floor. Rotate by hand and check the space between the tire and floor for out of round tire. More common than you would think. If not out of round set a socket, soda can or something almost against the tire and turn it watching the gap between again to see if it wobbles. Again, not unusual. If tire and wheel are no issue then find a shop that has the old style machine that spins the tire on the vehicle and balances the tire, hub, brake rotor and all. Older alignment shops usually still have those balancers. Tired right now so cannot think but there are some issues that are usually speed specific. Normally in the 40-60 mph hour range. Keep in mind the faster you go the more it multiplies an out of balance issue. Look to see how much weight is on the wheel. If there is a lot, then have the tire demounted and turned a little on the wheel into another position. Often it will take less weight. If it still cannot be balanced then the tire may need to be exchanged for another. I looked at a man's truck last week that had 10" of wheel weights on one side of one wheel. What the hell is that? Tire or wheel had some serious issues to have that much weight. One or both were crap. check alignment. Sometimes a new set of rubber with everything right makes loose parts more obvious. If you went wider tire and wheel that can accentuate an alignment issue too. Warped rotors from improper torquing shake the brake peddle when braking and the steering wheel while braking but do not usually shake the wheel when driving. Make sure that the balancer is big enough to handle your wheels. Old balancers were made for smaller wheels. The shaft on the balance flexes with bigger tires and wheels and does a poor job. Make sure the balancer has been calibrated correctly, old weights and gunk clean on wheels. I had a vibration 1 time that was due to a balancer that needed calibration. Machine showed it was correct but took it to a detail nut that I know and when we put it on his machine it showed how far off the other machine was reading the balance. Some cheap tires just never can be balanced well as the chords tend to fold in a sine wave. Make sure the balancer shows how much weight to put on the inside and outside of the wheel. Good luck. Vehicles that shake suck!
 

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This may or may not be helpful but one thing I have learned is that our trucks are very sensitive aero wise. I did a body lift and didn't relocate the front bumper for a week and it caused a shake. My front cross member on my roof rack created a ton of noise and a shake. I built a front bumper to mount a winch and now it causes a shake. What can you do.
 

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I too have seen the lifted body cause those issues on some brands of trucks. This is my first Nissan so no knowledge how they react but is quite possible! Good suggestion. d
d
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Guys, this is all good input.

I did the alignment when I initially put the wheels and tires on.

I lifted the truck about a month and a half before I put the wheels are tires on. At the time, the stock setup was on and there were no issues.

My solution, not sure how expensive it will be...is to take it to a shop to try out 3 different setups.

Setup 1 - Stock wheels and tires (I still have them)
Setup 2 - Stock tires on new aftermarket wheels
Setup 3 - New tires on stock wheels


Which ever setup vibrates could signify where the problem is.


Unless....all setups are fine, and there's a problem somewhere else that the larger tire size is magnifying??

I'm so frustrated.
 

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There is a style of balancing called Road Force Balancing that is more comprehensive, fwiw.
 

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Worth looking into. I learned about this here @CF. It was what the off-roading and lifted guys have discussed.

Will speculate that only some shops have the capability to perform this.

I'm 4x2 and on-road only, so...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ugh

I made an appointment to get them Road Force Balanced on Friday. We'll see how this ends up.
 

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I made an appointment to get them Road Force Balanced on Friday. We'll see how this ends up.
Interested in hearing the outcome. What brand lift? Also, your avatar makes it look like you either have spacers or your new wheels are offset that way? Which one? Hopefully we can get to the bottom of this!
 

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I found my vibration issue.

Do not know if yours is the same but mine turned out to be 3 things.
1) 1st generation ball bearing wheel bearings instead of 3rd gen tapered
roller cone.
2) Wrong wheel bearing part number....slight difference in hub design
when laid side by side.
3) Rt front brake rotor was not correct for the truck. Slightly smaller diameter. All other aspects of rotor were correct. Rotor was the first
part changed and made a tremendous difference.
Hope you have made some progress!
Cheers.
 

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Do not know if yours is the same but mine turned out to be 3 things.
1) 1st generation ball bearing wheel bearings instead of 3rd gen tapered
roller cone.
2) Wrong wheel bearing part number....slight difference in hub design
when laid side by side.
3) Rt front brake rotor was not correct for the truck. Slightly smaller diameter. All other aspects of rotor were correct. Rotor was the first
part changed and made a tremendous difference.
Hope you have made some progress!
Cheers.
I assume you bought it used then. Sounds like the previous owner tried to skimp on some did projects.
 

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Previous owner had shops do the maintenance work and charged him out the ying yang for if but damn fools put on wrong parts. I have done repair work on large machines for decades and wrong parts are not that uncommon. Do not know if correct parts are unavailable and they put on something close or if there are that many stupid people on the loose. Repair and oil change history actually shows up on the car fax report. Yes I bought it used. Had I not known/ ridden in the truck for years and it was being repossessed from a friend who I was trying to help, I probably not have bought it. I would post a picture if I knew how to do the resize deal. In past years the best I could do on resizing is to send the picture in an email to a friend who did whatever and he posted it on those forums. Truck is a delight to drive when things work. Today it was tire pressure sensor dying. Another day, $80 more dollars. So by far the most expensive truck I've have owned on a daily average due to the cost of day to day repair issues. Certainly not the most expensive to buy by tens of thousands, but the most expensive due to repairs. Jinxed when I bought it I guess because only one repair had ever been done to the truck that I would call a part failure, Rt airbag sensor, all others were normal wear issues before I bought it.
 

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Previous owner had shops do the maintenance work and charged him out the ying yang for if but damn fools put on wrong parts. I have done repair work on large machines for decades and wrong parts are not that uncommon. Do not know if correct parts are unavailable and they put on something close or if there are that many stupid people on the loose. Repair and oil change history actually shows up on the car fax report. Yes I bought it used. Had I not known/ ridden in the truck for years and it was being repossessed from a friend who I was trying to help, I probably not have bought it. I would post a picture if I knew how to do the resize deal. In past years the best I could do on resizing is to send the picture in an email to a friend who did whatever and he posted it on those forums. Truck is a delight to drive when things work. Today it was tire pressure sensor dying. Another day, $80 more dollars. So by far the most expensive truck I've have owned on a daily average due to the cost of day to day repair issues. Certainly not the most expensive to buy by tens of thousands, but the most expensive due to repairs. Jinxed when I bought it I guess because only one repair had ever been done to the truck that I would call a part failure, Rt airbag sensor, all others were normal wear issues before I bought it.
Thanks for the update. Even though I have a warranty, this is the reason I do everything myself. The warranty is only for things I can't handle and thankfully I haven't had any of those yet. I'm not even trying to fix my shake. I'm chalking it up to too many aftermarket lights and my winch bumper. I just try to ignore it. However, I've been noticing a clunk in the suspension on the front driver's side. I'll check that out when it's not as hot outside.
 

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I understand the self repairs. On our other vehicles crappy work is the very reason both my son and I quit taking them to the dealer for warranty work. Same reason why I quit buying new machines for the farm. The quality of work is so substandard it really ads no value to warranties any more. One tractor was in the dealer shop for 8 months for a warranty repair. On one attempt to repair the transmission it ground up reverse backing out of their shop door. At that point the manufacturer was out of parts and they tore down a brand new tractor for parts to put mine back together AGAIN. I had a heater housing on a truck they did not draw up the bolts to the firewall and it wore holes in the heater and evaporator supply tubes hanging from them and numerous other such warranty nightmares. Tomorrow I am taking off a day to work on the truck myself and see what happens. Good luck on yours. Any chance you have a wide space big lug tread tire? I had Gumbo Mudders on one truck and it took changing brands to make it drive great. I've blown enough Firestones to fill a trailer but really like the grip and ride of the new Goodyears.
 
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