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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone confirm that this bolt is threaded only at the end, and not threaded down its length?

I'm putting a lift on a 2010, and as you might suspect everything is frozen in place. Before I start hammering on this thing to get it off the ball joint (so I can replace the control arm, which I have to cut out because the bushings are locked solid to their bolts), I want to make sure that it isn't threaded through the knuckle...so I don't have to replace the knuckle.

Parts diagrams seem to show that it's only threaded for a nut and not down it's entire length. But I'm being cautious.

Thanks, folks.
 

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Its threaded only the last 1/4 of the bolt length for the nut. Dont be surprised if the bolt is seized the the spindle.

You will need a large chisel to spread the pinched area around the lower BJ.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its threaded only the last 1/4 of the bolt length for the nut. Dont be surprised if the bolt is seized the the spindle.

You will need a large chisel to spread the pinched area around the lower BJ.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Yay. Thanks for the response.

Oh, it's seized. PB Blaster working on it right now; torch to come...this has become the death march of "fun" projects -- each step reveals another hurdle.
 

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So first time I pulled mine('06) out was last August at 315k miles. It was hell getting the bolt out. I took an oscillating tool and went down and cut a small portion of the bolt out in the gap. That was enough to allow me to separate the LCA from the knuckle. Once that was done I took a deep socket and impact wrench to the side with the nut on it. It was enough torque to thread that section of the bolt and pull it out thru the nut. Side 1 done. For the side with the hex head I just stuck my biggest punch in the side I had just pulled out and about 10-15 hits later with a 4 lb mini sledge it went flying out. Everything was soaked in pb blaster so once it gave just a little bit it went flying.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So first time I pulled mine('06) out was last August at 315k miles. It was hell getting the bolt out. I took an oscillating tool and went down and cut a small portion of the bolt out in the gap.
Thought about this. Might come to that. Cool that you were able to draw it out.
 

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Yea that is how I did the passenger side. We won't talk about how I attempted the driver side because it took probably 20x longer since it was the first side I did. The holes in the knuckle for the pinch bolts are not tapered, you can insert the bolt from either direction. Knowing that (after doing driver side), I decided to try "pulling" the threaded portion of the bolt out on the passenger side. Using the nut that was already on it I hit it with the impact. It really didn't struggle pulling the bolt, it seemed to be fully seized rotationally but not too bad axially. Once I got the threaded end out know that it didn't want to turn but it did pull out I grabbed a big punch and a BFH. Those took care of the hex end pretty easy. From the time I cut through the bolt and removed the LCA from knuckle it took me 15-20 minutes to have the bolt removed. And yes the driver side really did take me 5-6 hours because of everything I tried. Heat/torch didn't work well for me at all.
 

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I found this stuff after doing the LCAs and it seems to work magic when combined with a torch. Heat everything up the use this on the bolt only. I've heard them pop when doing it this way from the bolt rapidly shrinking after being heated. Has made removal of exhaust studs super simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Ooo. Now THAT is interesting. Seems like antique tractor guys like it -- and I suspect they see a few frozen bolts. Will report.

EDIT: Picked some up today. Also ordered some "Free All." Yes, I'm desperate.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah...no. This project has been hellacious. Truck had 130000 on it when I got it as the 2nd owner. The PO took great care of it, but did nothing to it. Everything underneath has had the benefit of 10 years of highway running in the NY/NJ/CT tristate area and is just cemented. I've cut everything out and I've been whaling on the pinch-bolts with a BFA, using all kind of penetrating juju and MAP gas. I'm one for two so far. It's down to brute force and strategic grinder use, I'm afraid.
 

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Cobalt drill bits are amazing on hardened bolts, just sayin'. A 3/8 or 7/16 should do the trick, just make sure you start dead center and keep the bit cool. I keep a jug of used ATF around all the time, it makes great cutting oil to dip the drill bit in.

 

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Discussion Starter #11
Cobalt drill bits are amazing on hardened bolts, just sayin'. A 3/8 or 7/16 should do the trick, just make sure you start dead center and keep the bit cool. I keep a jug of used ATF around all the time, it makes great cutting oil to dip the drill bit in.

Popped it out this morning. Torched it one more time and I could see some of the penetrating oil just seeping out and knew I had it. Putting all back together now. Then, the rear shocks and a shackle lift...probably more of the same kind of fun.
 

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First time I replaced u-joints I ended up drilling through 10 of 12 driveshaft bolts. That's when I learned the benefit of cobalt bits vs black oxide and even titanium nitrate. 4 black oxide bits for one bolt, got 2 bolts out of a titanium bit, did the other 7 plus who knows how much else since then with the same cobalt bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
First time I replaced u-joints I ended up drilling through 10 of 12 driveshaft bolts.
Good lord.

That's when I learned the benefit of cobalt bits vs black oxide and even titanium nitrate. 4 black oxide bits for one bolt, got 2 bolts out of a titanium bit, did the other 7 plus who knows how much else since then with the same cobalt bit.

Thanks for the tip: I'll put that in my back pocket; no doubt it'll come up.
 
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