[grantb7machz]

Heres my problem:

My truck is swaying from side to side and almost scarey when driveing in ruts on pavement. I have installed a new (upgraded/heavy duty) center link, had a wheel alingment, all balljoints, tie rods, idler arm bushings are in good condition (no play according to the garage) When driving my truck my stearing needs to be constatly adjusted with the wheel when I am trying to go straight. I do have big tires (33x12.50) and I realize that this will cause some sway/pull when in ruts but it is really excessive and my truck was not like this in the beginning when I installed the tires and the truck was stock.

*stearing needs to be constantly adjusted even on flat pavement with no rutts but not as bad*

My question is should I try and adjust my stearing box/worm gear? If so how do I do it and can it be reversed if this is not the problem?

When I purchased the upgraded center link I thought it would fix my sway problem but I think it has made it worse. Is there something that I shouls be looking for before I adjust my stearing box?:comphead:

Any coments will be very much appreciated.

Someone Plese help!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks

Grant

 

[chainsaw]

If you changed the center link Ill bet your tow in/out is off, could cause this problem, basicly the tires are fighting one another for who is in charge. Use a tape measure at the front and then the rear of the front tires and make sure the measurement is the same. If not adjust using your TREs.


Did you recently lift it? Sounds like your caster could be a little to positive, that could make for the conditions your are explaining. If you have lifted it the upper A arms need to be adjusted.

+ I have found that some tires will most certainly "follow" ruts or ever tracks in heavy rain more than others.

Dont fool with the box for now, highly doubt thats the problem.

 

[BRUTAL]

I agree with Charlie except that the more positive the caster the more the vehicle wants to stay straight and youll have less wander...Have and alignment done by someone that knows what to do, not just sets the alignment to the GREEN or factory setting. I would crank in as much positive caster as the suspension will allow. And recheck the suspension carefully, alot of play cannot be easily FELT by hand and nust be pried to check. Remember you have a 4-5000# truck at speed acting on the suspension and will find play that you cannot always feel

 

[houdini]

could be a tire pressure issue. low pressure and the tires will follow the road (ruts and the pitch of the road)

 

[grantb7machz]

If you changed the center link Ill bet your tow in/out is off, could cause this problem, basicly the tires are fighting one another for who is in charge. Use a tape measure at the front and then the rear of the front tires and make sure the measurement is the same. If not adjust using your TREs.


Did you recently lift it? Sounds like your caster could be a little to positive, that could make for the conditions your are explaining. If you have lifted it the upper A arms need to be adjusted.

+ I have found that some tires will most certainly "follow" ruts or ever tracks in heavy rain more than others.

Dont fool with the box for now, highly doubt thats the problem.

According to the shop the Toe is perfect but I have not checked it myself. Also the caster (and Camber) is off and thet say it cannot be adjusted because there is no room for adjustment because I probally have my truck cranked too high. But I have had my truck like this for couple years now and this is the first time it has been a factor.

I agree with Charlie except that the more positive the caster the more the vehicle wants to stay straight and youll have less wander...Have and alignment done by someone that knows what to do, not just sets the alignment to the GREEN or factory setting. I would crank in as much positive caster as the suspension will allow. And recheck the suspension carefully, alot of play cannot be easily FELT by hand and nust be pried to check. Remember you have a 4-5000# truck at speed acting on the suspension and will find play that you cannot always feel

Is there a way I can "attempt" to adjust the positive caster myself? - keeping note of where she sits now so I can adjust back if I have too.

could be a tire pressure issue. low pressure and the tires will follow the road (ruts and the pitch of the road)

I did recently lower my tire pressure because I noticed that my tires were wearing in the middle. The shop inflated them to 40psi. I put them back to 27psi - mabe a bit low.



Final note: I did breafly check my stearing box and I noticed that it seemed to me that there was stearing input going into the box but none comming out (tires were not turning). I am still leaning towards the stearing box even if you guys are saying you don't think this is the problem. I really think the box needs to be adjusted! I will try and do a more detailed inspection today when I get home from work.

Thanks for all the help/input really appreciated

Grant

 

[grantb7machz]

I agree with Charlie except that the more positive the caster the more the vehicle wants to stay straight and youll have less wander...Have and alignment done by someone that knows what to do, not just sets the alignment to the GREEN or factory setting. I would crank in as much positive caster as the suspension will allow. And recheck the suspension carefully, alot of play cannot be easily FELT by hand and nust be pried to check. Remember you have a 4-5000# truck at speed acting on the suspension and will find play that you cannot always feel

Did a little research. Let me see if I can get this right. To get more positive caster "on a first gen" I need to adjust the rear of the upper control arm in towards the oil pan but this will also affect my camber in a negative way and my toe will need to be adjusted again as well.
So Should I tell the alingment shop to do the (+) caster 1st and then worry about the toe. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[BRUTAL]

ON a 1st gen it works just the opposite a 2nd gen since youre adjusting the top a arm not the bottom. the fat part of the rear eccentric in the top arm points straight out and the front eccentric points at the oil pan for the most positive caster you can dial in. But this will have the opposite tire clearance that a 2nd gen has. This will move the upper ball joint closer to the rear fender well and you might have tire clearance issues depending on the tire/wheel youre using. when doing an alignment front toe is ALWAYS the LAST this to set after all others are set to where you want them. And if alot of caster/camber changers are made, they may have to go back after setting toe and change the caster/camber and then reset front toe again to all settings are where they want them...Notice I didnt say in spec or in the green...
Again an alignment machine is a tool, not the gospel on how it should be in all cases. Please do them/you a favor and talk to them(the tech doing the alignment not the advisor or counter person) about your issues and what we have talked about here... I they want to "DO EVERYTHING IN SPEC" without regard to caster/camber and whats going on, you may want to go find someone else. Tires and the way a vehicles suspension responds on the road is what you are looking at for the final say, not an alignment machine

 

[chainsaw]

^^$$^^

Thanks for the correction Brutal.

 

[grantb7machz]

OK so I think I have caster, camber and toe straight. Also I kinda know the just of how to adjust them and I know adjusting one WILL affect the other. SOOOOO here are the FINAL specs that I got printed off at the shop:


Caster : Left -0.6 RED
Right -0.7 RED

Camber: Left -0.0 RED
Right -1.6 RED

Toe: Left 0.18 GREEN
Right 0.13 GREEN
Total 0.31 GREEN

* The 4 top cam bolts are adjusted OUT to the max!


BRUTAL! can anything be done with this? The shop is telling me that nothing can be done. So I say why can't the caster be adjusted a little (to get better straight line driveability), and not worry too much about camber and THEN adjust the toe. The garage says this can't be done because if the caster is adjusted this will throw the camber way out of wack and the truck will wear the inside of the tires like theres no tomorrow.

I kinda understand what the garage is saying but I would REALLY like a second opinion... PLEASE!

ALSO whats up with the LEFT Camber = 0.0 an the right = -1.6. If both sides are extended out to the max why is there such a big difference?:comphead:


On another note:

I looked at my stearing components again and it confirmed what I originally thought; There is stearing input going into the stearing box but... the output to the Pittman is not what, I think, it should be. I can turn the wheel back and forth (side to side) about 2" each side (4" total) and the pittman is NOT moving! THERE IS A LOT OF PLAY! I really think my stearing box needs to be ADJUSTED!

 

[telemike]

Your steering box is SHOT.

My 150K box was sloppy and had a bad seal with a leak. It is probably worn out and when you move it and the pitman arm doesn't respond that is the sign it is GONE.

I lucked out and got a 48K 2003 box for $50 at a junkyard. Now my steering is tight and doesn't feel loosey-goosey on the road.

:sickly:

 

[grantb7machz]

Your steering box is SHOT.

My 150K box was sloppy and had a bad seal with a leak. It is probably worn out and when you move it and the pitman arm doesn't respond that is the sign it is GONE.

I lucked out and got a 48K 2003 box for $50 at a junkyard. Now my steering is tight and doesn't feel loosey-goosey on the road.

:sickly:

Second Opinions? Why can't it just be adjusted?

 

[telemike]

If you move the wheel and the pitman arm hardly moves that pretty much means it's slap worn out.

I can turn the wheel back and forth (side to side) about 2" each side (4" total) and the pittman is NOT moving! THERE IS A LOT OF PLAY!

That is even worse than what I had and my box was shot and leaking/ I maybe had 1" each side.

 

[grantb7machz]

My stearing box is NOT leaking. Also I turned the adjustment screw 1/2 a turn counter clockwise and there "seemed" to be some improvement. When turning the wheel back and forth quickly I could here a small click or (very small clunk). I turned the adjustment screw clockwise it seemed to get louder and when I truned it counter clockwise the click/clunk seemed to be less pronounced. (Maybe it was in my head)

My Conclusion: I turned the adjustment screw about 1/2 a turn counter clockwise and stearing seemed to improve but could be better. The stearing did not get worse but... it did get dark. So I am going to try some more adjustment tomorrow unless someone on here can convince me otherwise!

 

[telemike]

The gears are most likely worn if you turn the wheel and the pitman arm doesn't move or feel tight. You may get temporary relief but that box has got to be replaced. It can be very dangerous on the road especially passing or turning.

Heres my problem:

My truck is swaying from side to side and almost scarey when driveing in ruts on pavement. I have installed a new (upgraded/heavy duty) center link, had a wheel alingment, all balljoints, tie rods, idler arm bushings are in good condition (no play according to the garage) When driving my truck my stearing needs to be constatly adjusted with the wheel when I am trying to go straight.

*steering needs to be constantly adjusted even on flat pavement with no ruts but not as bad*

Signs of a steering box going bad, very bad

:sickly:

 

[grantb7machz]

The gears are most likely worn if you turn the wheel and the pitman arm doesn't move or feel tight. You may get temporary relief but that box has got to be replaced. It can be very dangerous on the road especially passing or turning.



Signs of a steering box going bad, very bad

:sickly:

OK, so lets say I accept the fact that my steering box is gone bad... I know that I can adjust it - but which way do you turn the screw to tighten the box?

Clockwise or Counter Clockwise? I searched but could not find the answer?

I have heard some say that its possible to get some good use (up to a year or more) out of the box after you tighten it. Moneys tight right now so I'm hoping tightening the box will get me by for a while. (I tried to look see how to adjust it in my repair manual but its not in there)

Can the greese/oil be drained from the box and new added? What goes in there?

Also, I can get a remanufactured box with a lifetime warrenty for $265 US. Does this sound like a good deal? It does to me.

Thanks,

Grant

 

[telemike]

Search the junkyards for a low mileage box. I paid like $50 something for a 2003 box with 48K on it. I paid a friend of mine $25 to help swap it out.

I don't think you are supposed to adjust that screw, it's not mentioned in my Haynes manual or the Nissan manual.

Try this find a used box: Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

I see some as low as $35 all the way to $500

Where are you located?

 

[upcominZ]

I tightened my stearing box using that screw. I can't remember if it was clockwise or counter. I would guess clockwise, I remember doing a google search and getting the info on a chevy forum. Mine is tighter, but not perfect. It used to constantly sway also. I also changed the swaybar bushings, and that helped a bunch. My 98' ext cab has 165k miles, all original, no leaks and no problems.