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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've read several threads on this topic, but still need some help with a starting issue. The truck is a 2008 CC Nismo 4x4 with 163k miles. I just bought the truck and am working through a few issues. On cold starts in the morning the truck takes several seconds to start. Yesterday it wouldn't start and I had to jump it. I had the battery tested and it's showing 575 cca. The negative and positive terminals were loose, so I changed the negative and attempted to change the positive with no luck (see pic). There is a cable coming off the postie terminal that I couldn't figure out what to do with.
Could this be a starter issue? Fuel? Bad positive connection? I put a wedge in the positive terminal connection, but that didn't tighten it up as snug as I thought it should be.
Please help
 

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These cable terminals are terrible and poor contact issues due to them being loose are very common. To make it worse, a lot of the aftermarket batteries, especially many of those made by Johnson Controls (who makes about 1/2 of the batteries on the market, including Walmart Everstart/Maxx, Autocraft and Duralast), have skinnier battery posts than the OEM. There are battery post shims available to make up the slack. I got some from Advance Auto Parts; they were a little bit big, but I was able to hammer the cable end down onto it far enough to be able to tighten it and get a tight connection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
These cable terminals are terrible and poor contact issues due to them being loose are very common. To make it worse, a lot of the aftermarket batteries, especially many of those made by Johnson Controls (who makes about 1/2 of the batteries on the market, including Walmart Everstart/Maxx, Autocraft and Duralast), have skinnier battery posts than the OEM. There are battery post shims available to make up the slack. I got some from Advance Auto Parts; they were a little bit big, but I was able to hammer the cable end down onto it far enough to be able to tighten it and get a tight connection.
I got those shims yesterday, but they were too big and I was afraid to hammer the connection down. I'll try again today. How long had that fix worked for you?
 

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I got those shims yesterday, but they were too big and I was afraid to hammer the connection down. I'll try again today. How long had that fix worked for you?
I installed them a couple of months ago. So far, so good!
 

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I was wondering why I have my clamps cranked down and they still don't seem tight! I'm going to have to grab dinner of those shims. Thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
After 2 days at the shop, everything checked out fine. Charging system tested ok. No parasitic drain. They even left it out overnight and it cranked right up on cold start (16 degrees). We'll again see if it'll crank in the morning for me. If it wont, I'm going to start with new plugs and go from there. I really wish it were throwing a cel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
After 3 mornings of firing up, although a but too slow for comfort, it failed to start again this morning. Engine cranked, but wouldn't start. It's like it's not getting fuel, but it jumped right off again. Fuel pressure regulator and spark plugs on the way. I'm going to park it in the garage this week and see if that helps.

I miss my 4runner :(
 

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After 3 mornings of firing up, although a but too slow for comfort, it failed to start again this morning. Engine cranked, but wouldn't start. It's like it's not getting fuel, but it jumped right off again. Fuel pressure regulator and spark plugs on the way. I'm going to park it in the garage this week and see if that helps.

I miss my 4runner :(
The electrical system in these trucks needs a strong battery with clean, tight and solid connections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I left it in the garage overnight and it fired up this morning. This has to be a power issue. Should I just buy the biggest battery I can find for this thing? I guess it's living in the garage this winter.
 

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Have you been using the same (old) battery through all this? If yes, then get a big new battery. Sealed/maintenance free. I think it was Skibane that found a larger Group battery that fits fine and has the same terminal arrangement.

I had a similar issue the other day. My AGM batt failed to start. turn key to start and guage cluster starts freaking out. tried charging it, charger amperage was low, making me think it was full. grabbed the old OEM batt from the car and jumped the truck with it, no problems. warmed the truck up, drove around for 1/2 hr or so, get home, try to restart the truck, no-go. threw the OEM in. ran the charger on desulfate/maint routine for 24 hrs, said it was good. put it back in truck, sits overnight and again no start.

Be sure to buy your battery local, no matter what type you get. But be sure its sealed so you don't have corrosion in the batt term distribution fuse block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Have you been using the same (old) battery through all this? If yes, then get a big new battery. Sealed/maintenance free. I think it was Skibane that found a larger Group battery that fits fine and has the same terminal arrangement.

I had a similar issue the other day. My AGM batt failed to start. turn key to start and guage cluster starts freaking out. tried charging it, charger amperage was low, making me think it was full. grabbed the old OEM batt from the car and jumped the truck with it, no problems. warmed the truck up, drove around for 1/2 hr or so, get home, try to restart the truck, no-go. threw the OEM in. ran the charger on desulfate/maint routine for 24 hrs, said it was good. put it back in truck, sits overnight and again no start.

Be sure to buy your battery local, no matter what type you get. But be sure its sealed so you don't have corrosion in the batt term distribution fuse block.
I bought a brand new battery after this all started and it is still having issues starting outside on cold mornings. I got an autocraft silver from Advanced Auto Parts. The other battery tested fine, but only had 500 cca, so I went for the new battery with 600 cca (labeled cca, I'm not sure what it actually tests out at).

Any idea what group size that was that @Skibane found???
 

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If ever any corrosion issue(s) at '+' terminal...the corrosion might have worked its way up into the '+' cable under the insulation. I've seen this happen before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I don't know why anyone would go through all that work to install a Group 31 battery when a Group 24F drops right in?
This was my thought. I looked at NAPA and they have drop in batteries with 800 cca if I decide to try a new battery. The truck has started fine the last 3 days after being parked in the garage overnight. I'm going to leave it outside Friday night to see if it starts Saturday morning, but I am almost certain it won't.
 
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