[branchkin]

Ground is good, checked with meter one end on battery post, other end on engine block.. I've got low voltage at the starter, thought I had previously checked that. Positive cable at the solenoid is low. So I have good volts at the battery and poor volts at the solenoid. There is a small fuse block just beyond the battery terminal on the positive cable , good voltage there.

 

[bajasam]

Your not checking voltage, you need to set your meter on OHM's to check resistance inside your cables. The closer to zero the number the less the resistance. This allows you to not have to disconnect everything to check it.

 

[idlafie]

Ground is good, checked with meter one end on battery post, other end on engine block.. I've got low voltage at the starter, thought I had previously checked that. Positive cable at the solenoid is low. So I have good volts at the battery and poor volts at the solenoid. There is a small fuse block just beyond the battery terminal on the positive cable , good voltage there.

There's like 5 or 6 fusible links in the fuse block located directly behind the positive battery terminal. Check ALL the fusible links to make sure none are bad. Two are on top & the rest are "hidden" on the side. Check the cable between the fusible link and the starter. You should be getting battery voltage. Follow Bajasam's recommendation, (post #22).

 

[branchkin]

They are 6 fuses in that block, all are intact. They are 6 wires that disappear into the hard plastic sheathing that contains the wires. Clueless as to which goes to the starter, the sheathing branches off a couple of times between battery and starter. I'm trying to avoid cutting up the plastic sheathing to trace but may not have a choice. This morning I had just under 12v at the starter, tried to start and voltage dropped to maybe 3 v.

 

[ssundet]

I know it was posted about already, but I never saw a response to it. Have you ruled out the ignition switch module yet? If you just get one click every time, couldn't that still be it?

Ive also had the "one click" symptom from aged terminals, and once I replaced them it fired up. I'd maybe peel and inspect the wire behind your terminal connectors for corrosion also.

I'm following along, maybe I'll learn something from this.

Best of luck

 

[branchkin]

Not sure about the ignition switch, kind of saving that for last. The positive terminal is almost new and looks it, the negative is older but is in great shape. The ends of the couple of wires I can see at the fuse block at the battery has no corrosion at all. I may try running a heavy gauge wire straight from the battery to the solenoid. I know I'm not good on electrical stuff, but I'm about ready to concede defeat on this one. If I can't find the problem tomorrow, it's going to the garage.

 

[RamTest]

What happens to your dash lights after that 'click'?

 

[branchkin]

Nothing, they stay on like they normally do.

 

[RamTest]

Nothing, they stay on like they normally do.

That sounds like the starter relay on the IPDM. Try swapping it for another relay and you should be good.

See page 28 for location of starter relay:

https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Frontier%2F2006%2Fpg.pdf

 

[branchkin]

Already checked, swapped with a different relay and same results, you can hear and feel it click when you turn the key.

 

[RamTest]

That relay is not delivering power to the starter.
Try turning the key to start very slowly, you might have a burned spot on the contact.

 

[branchkin]

Took it to the shop today. As several speculated, they found an issue with the positive cable between the battery and the solenoid. Thanks for all the suggestions.