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Discussion Starter #1
I heard some weird sounds form my truck, it sounded like rod knock. I checked cyl 1, it seemed ok. I checked cyl 2, there was significant play. I suspect oil starvation a few months ago caused excessive wear to the rod bearing(s). I'm looking at my options now.

1. take the oil pan off and see if I can access all rod bearings from below with the engine still in the truck. There is a good 9 hours labour to take off the oil pan. I'm no pro so probably double hours for me lol.
-If my crank is damaged where the bearing rides, this will have been a waste of time
-If the rod that was knocking got damaged, this will have been a waste of time.

2. Remove the engine. I don't know what the estimated labour is for this task, but I could bring the crank shaft into a machine shop and get the bearing journals machined if the engine is out.


Other things to note:

I need a new throw-out bearing. This would probably be easier to fix with the engine removed.
 

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My advice would be to pull the engine out.
 
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Sorry to dig up this grave, but it's time I did something about this.

I am confident with my diagnosis of a bad rod bearing in Cyl 2 - but there is another symptom which I am unsure of. After the spun rod bearing sound occurred, I drove home and I tried inspecting the truck in my driveway with the engine running but it kept stalling. I had to start it up again sooner and sooner each time and rev the engine to keep it going.

Is the symptom of stalling sooner and sooner consistent with a spun rod bearing? If I keep running my engine like this, eventually the spun rod bearing will get jammed and lock up everything?

edit: here is some video evidence of why I believe its a spun rod bearing:



 

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If you have a spun rod bearing, there is a good chance that waiting can cause damage to your crankshaft.
 

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You could fix it on the cheap. It may last a while "fixing" it this way. Dude in this video got his knocking engine running smooth. Then again you can drop a Low Mileage JDM Engine in it for a grand. Your shop looks great for doing an engine drop. I'm jealous

 
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You don't want to wait until the crank and rod seize because it makes it real difficult to get to the flexplate bolts on the torque converter if you have an auto trans and can't turn the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I started taking it apart but I can't figure out how to lift up the engine! Does anyone know how to lift this engine? I don't believe my truck has "slingers" which are mentioned in the FSM as being on "some" engines. I can't find a clear diagram pointing out where the slingers should be bolted, or what size bolts.

This link shows the slingers and hardware (no longer available) and a diagram with approximately the location:


slingers are 1005 & 1006
the hardware is 1005a & 1006a

Do I have to remove the timing belt and the plate behind it in order to find the bolt holes? I suppose I will make my own slingers from some steel flat bar.
 

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Usually there are a couple of empty threaded holes in the cylinder heads that you can use. I know there are two on the front/outer side of the right bank head.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Usually there are a couple of empty threaded holes in the cylinder heads that you can use. I know there are two on the front/outer side of the right bank head.
I think I finally found them, two M8 holes behind the front diff breather tube bracket, and two M8 holes under the power steering pump mounting bracket. I think the power steering pump bracket mounting holes are what your talking about, right?
 

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Hard to say without seeing what you're looking at! Use the ones that will work the best for you!
 

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Why is the transmission out too?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
In the factory service manual it says to remove the manual transmission before the engine. It's possible that you can move the engine forward enough while lifting it out to get it off the transmission shaft, but i didn't try this. I didn't have the option.I was shocked to discover that my transmission mounts are sheared off. After the engine was pulled my transmission would have taken a dive.

I had my truck at a shop a few months back for an oil pan change and I suspect they broke them. They somehow managed to change my oil pan without dropping the cross member that is directly below it. The tack welds are still in place on that cross member.

Transmission before removal; you can see a nice bit of aluminum is missing :

316915
316916


Transmission and transmission bracket after removal:

316917
316918
316919
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If I have the cylinders bored out and put in 0.040 inch (about 1 mm) over sized pistons, I calculated that the engine displacement would go from 3300 cc to 3370 cc. That's a 2% volume gain. I think a bigger piston might even increase compression ratio.

Does 2% displacement gain equate to a 2% gain of hp and tq?
180 hp ----> 184 hp
202 ft*lb --->206 ft*lb

I also have a pair of stainless headers to install after the rebuild; maybe I can grab a 1 or 2 percent gain in power with those as well...

If I could find a thinner head gasket I would stick that on there also, but I've never come across different thickness head gaskets for this vehicle. RockAuto has the 0.040 inch over sized pistons.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
crank journals - it will cost me $250 at the engine shop to machine a crank (so i'm going to try and polish it myself):

316988



removing #6:

316989



lifters - the 2 closest to the camera are damaged:

316990
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Below is a pic of my left and right heads. The left head looks like its missing material at the bottom of the pic, you can actually see though and see the cam shaft. I have no idea how that could happen or if it matters.

316991
316992
 

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You should let the machine shop do the work. Turning and polishing the crank takes down metal and the bearings need to match the new size of the journal or you will be right back where you are now.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
You should let the machine shop do the work. Turning and polishing the crank takes down metal and the bearings need to match the new size of the journal or you will be right back where you are now.

I already ordered standard size rod bearings and main bearings... however I feel you are right. I was in a 'cheap' state of mind when I made that decision.

Rock auto sells a re-manufactured crank that comes complete with rod and main bearings. I should have just ordered that instead of wasting 50 bucks on std sized rod and main bearings, FML.

crank is otw now
 

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You can probably return those with just the shipping costs for you. Bearing tolerances are super critical so the remaned sounds like a better choice. Don't want to see you have to do this again. Been there, done that.
 
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