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Discussion Starter #1
I've been digging and discovered that the stock speakers are 2 ohm impedance. Nearly every aftermarket speaker is 4 ohm, with some exceptions.

If I do nothing else except swap the stock speakers for some with a 4 ohm impedance, I know this will, in theory, cut my volume in half with the volume set at the same level.

I believe the stock stereo volume maxes out at 40, and with CD's I'm usually at 20 now, so I have room to go up, assuming that the deck won't clip the signal near the upper end (which I suspect that it will). Another concern is that when listening to my iPod, to get the same perceived volume as with CD's, I usually have to turn the setting up to about 27, and therefore I won't have much room left to turn it up if the 4 ohm load speakers present a problem.

Has anyone else done a simple speaker swap only, and had these issues I describe? I can always add an amp, or even consider a new head unit, and I am well experienced in audio so those things would be relatively easy, aside from cost and the work. I'd like to avoid that, though. I think I know what to expect in terms of sound change from swapping speakers only, but I just wanted to ask if what I expect is the reality, or if there is something else to consider, because theory on paper vs. reality isn't always the same.
 

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I have not done a speaker swap in these trucks, though I did swap out my HU (head unit). In my experience, the difference will not be drastic. You are going to get varying responses on here, and anywhere for that matter. IDEALLY they would match, but, if you are not an audiophile, you will prob be ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have not done a speaker swap in these trucks, though I did swap out my HU (head unit). In my experience, the difference will not be drastic. You are going to get varying responses on here, and anywhere for that matter. IDEALLY they would match, but, if you are not an audiophile, you will prob be ok.
Boy, I've gotten really rusty. It's been too long since I messed with audio equipment. I rethought my earlier statements and realized I was wrong. 4 ohm speakers won't cut my volume in half, they will only cut the power output in half due to double the impedance.

If I remember correctly, it takes double the power for a 3 dB increase in volume, and takes a 10 dB increase to perceive volume being doubled. So if doubling power increases volume only 3 dB, then cutting power by half should only drop volume by 3 dB. I can compensate for that by turning the volume knob up a few more notches. At least that's what I'm gonna tell myself until I see otherwise.

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Alpine has a small amp that would be great, I have one I used in my Silverado, it worked great
I hooked it up to my stock stereo and added aftermarket speakers

Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier


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I doubt that you'd notice the difference in ohms. I'd go with 4-ohm myself.

I've put aftermarket 4 ohm speakers in both my '98 and 2004, and daughter's 1998 Pathfinder.
 

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I doubt that you'd notice the difference in ohms. I'd go with 4-ohm myself.

I've put aftermarket 4 ohm speakers in both my '98 and 2004, and daughter's 1998 Pathfinder.
Are Gen 1s also an OEM 2 ohm system?

A possible issue I foresee is that cranking up the volume knob will be needed and the OEM head-unit is designed to protect the stock speakers via signal modification.

The beauty of quality aftermarket watts is how well the system's output sounds from lower all the way through higher volumes. OEM system's fidelity falls apart way too early as the volume goes up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I agree with that, however, even though I do want better sound, which I feel just a speaker upgrade can help with, I am interested in keeping the stock look of the dash and saving money at the same time, which eliminates a new HU as a possibility. I may add an amp, which would also involve money spent on wiring and any line out converter (if the amp doesn't have a high level input), and I can hide all that under a seat. I'd far rather just put a couple pairs of speakers in the doors and let well enough alone. I'm not as into music as I once was, and I don't even think I can hear all that great anymore for a host of reasons. This is mostly to have something to fiddle with, on the cheap, and not to complex to accomplish, and have some improvement as well. I don't want to make it worse, though, so that's why I brought up this question about impedance. After my realization on the potential dB drop as compared to power loss, I felt a little better knowing it's not going to be a loss of half of the volume.

There are some 2 and 3 ohm options in new speakers. If they don't look like they need a ton of power to move them then I may just try those. I just didn't want to feel so limited when it came to speakers since most of them are 4 ohm. Having new, stiff suspension speakers with only half the power and no room to turn it up much, made me think that it would be like listening to headphones just laying on a table, LOL.
 

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You're overthinking it. You'll be fine swapping to 4-ohm speakers, if it's not loud enough afterward then at minimum all you have to do is add a small 4-channel amp like a Kenwood KAC-M3004 or Alpine KTP-445U
 

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Just a quick question but is everyone sure all the speakers are 2 Ohm or is it maybe just the front set because of the fact that it has a tweeter and a supposed "mid-Bass" sharing the line of a stock head unit. I'm just curious if the back ones might actually be 4 ohm (thus explaining my perceived lack of volume from the rear speakers). I know the head unit sucks for good quality volume, and its probably as simple as that, but the rear volume is just weak compared to the front, and I just haven't been driven nuts enough by it yet to swap out and start the cascade effect of a system install.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just a quick question but is everyone sure all the speakers are 2 Ohm or is it maybe just the front set because of the fact that it has a tweeter and a supposed "mid-Bass" sharing the line of a stock head unit. I'm just curious if the back ones might actually be 4 ohm (thus explaining my perceived lack of volume from the rear speakers). I know the head unit sucks for good quality volume, and its probably as simple as that, but the rear volume is just weak compared to the front, and I just haven't been driven nuts enough by it yet to swap out and start the cascade effect of a system install.
In my truck at least, the speakers are all 2 ohm. I looked up the factory part numbers for a 2014 SV KC.

The rear speakers are 6.5", part 281569FF0A. The front speakers are 6x9, part 28157ET000. They are definitely 2 ohm. My truck doesn't have the dash tweeters, just empty grills holding the place where they'd be if they were there.

My experience on lack of volume from rear speakers tells me it is due to placement, not being in as much of a direct line to your ears as the front ones are, and that's all relatively speaking, because the fronts aren't a direct line, either, but they're at least better positioned compared to the rears, where the sound has to come from behind the seats. Also, the 6.5" size is just not as efficient as a 6x9. There's no replacement for displacement. Holds true in all "motor pistons", both in engines and speakers. My opinion.

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Discussion Starter #12
You're overthinking it. You'll be fine swapping to 4-ohm speakers, if it's not loud enough afterward then at minimum all you have to do is add a small 4-channel amp like a Kenwood KAC-M3004 or Alpine KTP-445U
Do you think the stock wiring in the doors is large enough gauge to handle about a 50 RMS per channel amp if I think I need one? I ran one in my last install, 50 RMS per channel, and used 16 gauge wire.

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Just a quick question but is everyone sure all the speakers are 2 Ohm or is it maybe just the front set because of the fact that it has a tweeter and a supposed "mid-Bass" sharing the line of a stock head unit. I'm just curious if the back ones might actually be 4 ohm (thus explaining my perceived lack of volume from the rear speakers). I know the head unit sucks for good quality volume, and its probably as simple as that, but the rear volume is just weak compared to the front, and I just haven't been driven nuts enough by it yet to swap out and start the cascade effect of a system install.
100% sure. The 2-3/4" dash speakers are 4-ohm, the front door 6x9" are 2-ohm, and the rear 6.5" are 2-ohm. Yes, it doesn't make sense, especially considering the front speakers are wired in parallel.
 

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Do you think the stock wiring in the doors is large enough gauge to handle about a 50 RMS per channel amp if I think I need one? I ran one in my last install, 50 RMS per channel, and used 16 gauge wire.

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Yes stock wiring is fine for 50 watts.... YOu might find it easier depending on your truck and what stereo set up in it though to run your own cables though.
 

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Do you think the stock wiring in the doors is large enough gauge to handle about a 50 RMS per channel amp if I think I need one? I ran one in my last install, 50 RMS per channel, and used 16 gauge wire.

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It should be fine but again - remember what I said about how the front speakers are wired up. If you're not going to run anything in the dash and just have a 4-speaker setup then you'll be fine.

Also, I'm not sure why you're hung up on the volume/output of the rear speakers... ideally for SQ you would want all of the sound to come from in front of you, not from behind - when you go to a concert the stage is always in front of you, not behind you. Unless you want the dance club effect, where there's sound all around and no such thing as stereo ::wink::
 
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Discussion Starter #17
It should be fine but again - remember what I said about how the front speakers are wired up. If you're not going to run anything in the dash and just have a 4-speaker setup then you'll be fine.

Also, I'm not sure why you're hung up on the volume/output of the rear speakers... ideally for SQ you would want all of the sound to come from in front of you, not from behind - when you go to a concert the stage is always in front of you, not behind you. Unless you want the dance club effect, where there's sound all around and no such thing as stereo ::wink::
I'm not hung up on rear sound, I just was answering the question posed by the other person about why it seems to be lower volume.



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Discussion Starter #18
Yes stock wiring is fine for 50 watts.... YOu might find it easier depending on your truck and what stereo set up in it though to run your own cables though.
Well, since I'm keeping the stock HU, and if I get an amp, then at the minimum I have to run speaker wires from the stock HU down to the amp for high level inputs, or use a line level converter and run RCA, and then run wires from the amp out to every speaker.

So I see two options, each one involving wires ran from the dash down to the amp inputs. One option is run speaker outputs back to the dash and tie into existing speaker wires. A second option is run speaker wires to each speaker individually from the amp, which I prefer, but this means I have to have the amp and 4 speakers all at once instead of buying speakers now and an amp later, because I only want to tear into the doors just once for a speaker install, and not again later to run new wire. So I suppose if I get speakers now, and an amp later, then I'll be tying into stock speaker wiring for connections.

Based on cost, experience, space available below the seat, and current level of interest, I know I would not put in an amp with more than 50-75 RMS per channel, so if the stock wiring will hold that, then I'll look for speakers now that will perform adequately on low power, and that would shine with amp power if I install one later. That way, if I never get it, I won't be too sorry.

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Fwiw, I cheaped out on my '00 XE's stereo install and used the stock speaker wire running 75W to front Hybrid Audio Technology (HAT) comps from/through a Boston Acoustics amp. I did a fair amount of research at DIYMA.com and concluded I was not 'purist' enough to pay my installer to upgrade to larger wire. Zero complaints from that decision.
 
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