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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. New here, but ive been reading lots about the current designs and set-ups, dos and donts, etc.
I have a pretty Odd question, I suppose.
I have a 4Dr 2019 SE with the 6 speaker set up.
I switched out the stock 6x9's with some 3-ways I like and will be upgrading the entire system as needed.
the question I have is this:
If the dash "tweets" are on the same line as the fronts - basically giving the front 4 tweeters (as the 6x9's have them as well) and the rears are 6.5's - How do you think the system would perform using Component speakers for the rear, but using the tweeters in the dash. this would basically make the 6x9's I installed have additional tweeters, and the back doors would just have mid and base?
anyone done this, or have any advice/opinions on a setup like this?

or should I just run 2way 6.5s in the rear and get 1.5" tweets for the dash?

thanks ahead of time -

Mental
 

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Observations:

1. The "audiophile" way of getting good (and most will say correct) sound is to have your stage high and up front - basically the same as when you're watching a live concert or a performance in an auditorium. Everything I will type/suggest/recommend is going to be based on this type of setup (which is how I prefer it). That said, if you just want zero-direction loud sound (like a club or a dance hall with a DJ and multiple speakers) then none of this applies, just put speakers in and you're done - ignore the rest of this reply.

2. Because your 3-way 6x9"speakers in the front doors have tweeters (and I'm assuming you're running them full range anyways) you basically moved the "stage" down by your ankles. If you keep these tweeters working and you add another pair of tweeters in the upper dash area, your front stage will be way too "bright" - full of ear-piercing high frequencies that overwhelm the rest of the sound. No one like bleeding ears.

3. If you were to install the midbass/woofer of a 6.5" component set into the rear doors as-is, you will get some midbass, but it will be in the wrong location (behind you). Midbass still has some directionality, so doing this it would be like being at the same live concert, but there's someone with drums playing the music behind you (with the rest of the band up on stage).

4. As for the rear, if it's not sub bass, ideally you wouldn't have any speakers in the rear doors at all. This ensures that the stage stays where it's supposed to be, as if you had some speakers playing midrange to higher frequencies coming from behind you, you'll throw off the stage again. ALTHOUGH if you want to put some coaxials in the rear for the purpose of giving your passengers some music, that's fine. I have my audio set up for sound quality, but I also have some full-range rear speakers installed in my truck for passengers when the music is being played for entertainment, not for SQ.

So... with regards to a recommendation - consider installing a matched component system up front with tweeters (you have space for up to 2.35" without having to mod the dash) in the upper dash location and a matching 6.5" to 6x9" midrange/midbass in the front doors. This would be a conventional way to install components, doing so would put your main stage up front and high where it should be. Yes, unfortunately this means you would have to get rid of or sell your 6x9 3-ways (since they won't fit in the rear doors) but I guarantee you that a matched component set installed up front will sound much , much better than a single 3-way full range speaker pushing out the music across your floor mats.

Then when this is done, you still won't have lower bass. But when the budget allows, this can easily be resolved with a small 6.5"-8" powered subwoofer underneath the rear seat. Even something this small (but dedicated to low frequency bass) would give you a rounded out system with excellent overall sound (anything more than 8" is just for that extra boom).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1 - thank you. I will listen to anyone with RUSH in their username \m/ 0.0 \m/
2. I was thinking this once I installed the 6x9's (that Id made a huge mistake) and I really needed separates up front.
currently, my set up is Way to bright - and now I know why. I should have sought council before purchasing, but the stock sound is So bad - and I had free time yesterday.
3. the setup I will be shooting for (speaker-wise) will consist of:
Dash - 2" Tweeters JBL - GX Series 6.5" Component Speaker System with Polypropylene Cones (Pair) - Black )
FDoor - 6.5" Component (JBL - GX Series 6.5" Component Speaker System with Polypropylene Cones (Pair) - Black )
RDoor - 6.5" CoAxel for "guests" (JBL - GX Series 6.5" 2-Way Coaxial Car Loudspeakers with Polypropylene Cones (Pair) - Black )
RSeat - Small tight sub (8") for additional low Htz - TBD and hopefully using a box design from this forum.

to note - i am an audiophile (home system) and care a lot about clarity and sound-stage. I realize this is in a car, so there's only so much you can do. I listen to mostly Rush, Tool, Yes, Floyd, NIN, etc - so theres a need for some range.

4: Fear - My main fear is that with the Mid and Sub at my feet, and the Highs at my head, the bounce off the windshield etc will make the sound Way to bright.
JBL used to make a great 2.5" speaker that was mid and tweet together, but now they only make a Tweeter that fills that role.
Ill go pick these up this morning and install them today.

Thanks for the advice.
 

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1 - thank you. I will listen to anyone with RUSH in their username \m/ 0.0 \m/
2. I was thinking this once I installed the 6x9's (that Id made a huge mistake) and I really needed separates up front.
currently, my set up is Way to bright - and now I know why. I should have sought council before purchasing, but the stock sound is So bad - and I had free time yesterday.
3. the setup I will be shooting for (speaker-wise) will consist of:
Dash - 2" Tweeters JBL - GX Series 6.5" Component Speaker System with Polypropylene Cones (Pair) - Black )
FDoor - 6.5" Component (JBL - GX Series 6.5" Component Speaker System with Polypropylene Cones (Pair) - Black )
RDoor - 6.5" CoAxel for "guests" (JBL - GX Series 6.5" 2-Way Coaxial Car Loudspeakers with Polypropylene Cones (Pair) - Black )
RSeat - Small tight sub (8") for additional low Htz - TBD and hopefully using a box design from this forum.

to note - i am an audiophile (home system) and care a lot about clarity and sound-stage. I realize this is in a car, so there's only so much you can do. I listen to mostly Rush, Tool, Yes, Floyd, NIN, etc - so theres a need for some range.

4: Fear - My main fear is that with the Mid and Sub at my feet, and the Highs at my head, the bounce off the windshield etc will make the sound Way to bright.
JBL used to make a great 2.5" speaker that was mid and tweet together, but now they only make a Tweeter that fills that role.
Ill go pick these up this morning and install them today.

Thanks for the advice.
1. You're confused... @shift_RUSH just thumb's upped my post.
2. It's way to the right because the right front door speaker has enough space to radiate outward and upward towards your right ear... while your left front door speaker doesn't.
3. Those choices would work, just don't buy them from Best Buy.

I listen to Tool. \m/

RE Fear: A few bits of info for you on this one:

- You did not mention what your source will be, but since you never said anything about a head unit I'm going to assume you're using the stock head unit. If you're a home audiophile then you should know already that SQ depends on having a good source - and the primary problem with the Nissan Frontier of any model (even the "premium" Rockford Fosgate system) is that the OEM head unit really, really, really, really sucks. The frequency range is narrow, and the head unit rolls off the highs and lows relative to the volume level to help keep the OEM 3w speakers from blowing out.

So even if you change all the speakers out, they will not be utilized to their best of ability since the OEM head unit will not give your shiny new cones all of the frequencies they are meant to play. This is why if you browse around the car audio section of the forum, you'll see a lot of us recommending to anyone asking to get rid of the OEM head unit as soon as possible if they really want good sound (and not just loud sound).

- In my car audio system I have tweeters in the dash, midrange in the front doors, "guest" speakers in the rear doors, and subwoofers under my rear seat. I tuned the setup with a DSP, and I have to say that it sounds amazing :cool: it's all in the tuning, a little bit of effort does a lot to the quality of the sound (meaning, don't just install new speakers and assume it will sound perfect)

- Yes the dash speakers are (unfortunately) aimed at the windshield, because that helps the weak sound of the OEM dash speaker spread out and sound louder than it really is... at the expense of a clear left-right directionality. This is where a DSP comes into play - in a vehicle, you can't physically position your speakers evenly and perfectly like in a home system, but with DSP you can manipulate the timing and levels to get the same end effect.

Just of note - I went into SQ mode with my replies. If you're not looking for really good sound, you don't have to go down this rabbit hole. I don't know what your budget is and how good of SQ you are aiming for :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok - so, quick update.
I went ahead and got JL's for all 6 slots. I have 1" tweeters for the dash and their 6x9 2way's for the front door, with Coax 6.5" in the rear. I believe the 6x9 2ways matched with the tweeters will give a full range. If I dont like it, I can always get some 6.5's for the front (similar to yours).
took most of the day getting all the stuff I needed, so Ill be installing tomorrow - once I figure out if I need to run the cross-over to the 6x9's or if the HU does that for me automatically. Im researching that tonight. I also have Dynamat (equivalent) just to be sure I can isolate any reverb.

as for SQ - I plan on keeping this truck a while, so, yes - SQ means a lot to me - however, I know what speakers I want (for now) and I am still trying to find the right head unit for my needs. I am not expecting a vast improvement until I get a new HU. I have a few other things I want to get, so I figured Id Replace factory speakers > replace head unit > add a sub/amp > see what else I need to do and go from there.

Ill take pics if that's the kind of thing this board likes, as well as document my efforts/what I learn.

Im open for HU suggestions.
double DIMM, touch screen (with buttons is cool too) and I like the 7" screens. I prefer having a CD direct source (or DVD that plays CDs), as well as having XM ready. I would Prefer a hard drive, but if not, at Least a SD (or micro) to be able to access stored music slotted In the HU. I would want to keep the Factory USB and steering controls, and I need BT, Android Audio, and Id like to keep my backup camera.
I like Pioneer and Im not against Kenwood, but Ive never really had their products.
Im not an Alpine fan, or Sony (for car). Im also open to other suggestions. you guys have a lot of this stuff pretty well versed, so - lemmie know.
Id like to stay around $399 but I realize that might not be a possibility
 

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- Kind of confusing when you say you got "JL 6x9 2ways"... do you mean you bought a 6x9 component system? (What model# JLs? Part #s always are specific).

- OEM head unit sends out full range to all 6 speakers through 4 channels.

- Shop on Crutchfield.com for head unit options, see what features you really want and what items fit your budget. Their website is full of data and info that is super useful for making purchasing decisions (even if you decide later to not buy from Crutchfield).

- Pioneer is fine (but the NEX line has an annoying safety feature). I can vouch for Kenwood, I used to run Pioneer back in the day but my last 4 head units have been from Kenwood.

- $399... definitely possible if you stay realistic with the features you need vs. all the features you want.

- Keeping the factory USB/Steering/Bluetooth are all attainable with the right adapter harnesses. You just have to want to actually get the harnesses instead of expecting everything to work with just the head unit harness (many people want it to be too easy).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok - so, without having to add amps to power everything (see plan above) I have selected to go with the C1 series from JL. they are not the best - but the offer a pretty decent range of drop-in speakers at a decent price.
However - I may have taken some bad advice.
first - i was told that component speakers - they typically need more power to run them correctly - and if I wasnt going to add amps, that I may just want to look into Co-axel 2-ways and add an additional tweeter to basically make them 3-ways (i think that's how I understood it)
What I got today (should be self explanatory as to what goes where)
Tweeters: C1-100ct (C1-100ct)
Fronts: C1-690x (C1-690x)
Rears: C1-650x (C1-650x)

However - after a ton more reading - including Your post - and desperately looking for a visual diagram as to the wiring of this damn truck to better understand it - I am Now pretty sure I fckud up and should have gotten:
Front/tweet: C1-690 (C1-690)
Rears: C1-650x (C1-650x)

I am going to return the tweets and 6x9 and get the Components. I understood exactly how you described your set-up, and it sounds about exactly what Im looking for.
wish Id read it sooner.

re: HU - i am familiar with Cruchfield, and I will work on finding a HU asap (seems like its a Mandatory for better sound anyway)
I like kenwood (the company) and Many people seem to recommend them - so - why not.
 

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...first - i was told that component speakers - they typically need more power to run them correctly and if I wasnt going to add amps...
But wait - thinking ahead, if/when you change to an aftermarket head unit, this won't be an issue since your new aftermarket head unit will for sure have more power than the OEM head unit. Aside from external amplification, most of the quality aftermarket head units have enough on-board power to handle passive components (i.e. usually 25w x 4)

...I may just want to look into Co-axel 2-ways and add an additional tweeter to basically make them 3-ways
Yeah that isn't right - you'll have "3" drivers, but it will be ONE midrange and TWO tweeters.
A true 3-way would be 1 tweeter, 1 midrange, and 1 mid-bass/bass.
More subwoofers is good, more tweeters is bad. haha

...desperately looking for a visual diagram as to the wiring of this damn truck to better understand it...
It's nothign complicated at all... just imagine a basic 4-channel setup (front-left door, front-right door, rear-left door, rear-right door) + add a dash speaker to each front channel, wired in parallel to the front door speakers. All four channels get full range, the dash speakers have a filter built into the dash speaker itself (so the signal at the dash speaker wires is still full range)

...I am Now pretty sure I fckud up and should have gotten:
Front/tweet: C1-690 (C1-690)
Rears: C1-650x (C1-650x)
Yeah, that would be much better.
 

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old thread I know (again). For general SQ purposes, most would recommend to not have similar frequencies being played from multiple drivers- other than left and right sides
 

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old thread I know (again). For general SQ purposes, most would recommend to not have similar frequencies being played from multiple drivers- other than left and right sides
Explain why "most would recommend" that :D
 

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because it is hard to keep phase and time alignment correct. I should note that subs are often not considered an issue
 
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