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I havent done it yet, most like next spring when I should be aropund 60K, but is it a must to remove the upper plenum to do it? I was looking around today cleaning the engine bay up. It looks like if you use swivels and a long extension it might be doable without removing anything. I can get an extension and swivel and short socket on the coil bolt(didnt remove them though), and it seems like a plug socket,swivel and extension should go down the plug tubes once their out. I think the worst one would be the #3 plug(i think) which is almost in the middle of the plenum, but it looks like it should be too bad. Anyone try this route instead of removing the whole upper part of the engine?
 

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Just an FYI our plugs are susposed to be good till 100k so you will get a bunch of people telling you to just wait. I will be doing mine around 60k also thou.

The amount of time it takes to remove and re-install the upper intake manifold, it is just easier then trying to use a bunch of extensions and universals to gains access to the plugs. Not to mention it is going to suck to try and TQ them down.

Lastly, don't forget to apply some anti-seize to the threads and then dielectric grease to the boots so that there is no excess arcing and possible mis-fires.

Side Note: I saw a product on HorsePower Television on Spike where they installed a special crush washer on the sparkplugs to make sure the electrode was not in the way of the spark and that the spark was directed towards the center of the cylinder and not towards the wall. I am not sure how easy it could be to install on our motor but it may be something cool to do and could gain more power or atleats a cleaner burn.
 

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If you can reach them to remove them, use a thick walled rubber hose (like vacuum line hose) to slip over the boot end of the plug to install them (about 12" long). Helps you reach the hole and you can't torque them enough to cross thread with the hose. Finish with the torque wrench.
 

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Side Note: I saw a product on HorsePower Television on Spike where they installed a special crush washer on the sparkplugs to make sure the electrode was not in the way of the spark and that the spark was directed towards the center of the cylinder and not towards the wall. I am not sure how easy it could be to install on our motor but it may be something cool to do and could gain more power or atleats a cleaner burn.

I always wanted to do that. Dialing in is what it's called, I think.

60K's a little on the early side. I've settled on 75K for my 3.3. 100K's way too long, especially for the first change.
 

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I also did mine at 55k. They were in there tight, not to mention dry. I always use anti-seize in my street and dirt bike plugs. Makes sense to use it on cars as well, especially for ""100k"" plugs.... Right..... To be honest, that was the main reason i changed mine. Preventative maintenance/problems. Our aluminum heads would love you just for that. 2cents....

I also saw that bit on Horsepower with the crush washers.... but would that apply to us? Being that our set up is a Hemi-design? The plug sits in the middle of our 8 valves. Correct me if I'm wrong....
 

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Anyone use the E3 plugs? Saw them on a 4x4 truck show that is on TV on saturdays.
 

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#2 plug - PITA and then some

Yeah, I attempted the #2 plug - tore the boot and the electrode was about 4" out of the boot. The plug actually fell out of the socket as I was pulling it out. Needless to say I had to get back to Autozone grab some 8" long needle nose pliers and got the spark plug cables - $35.

This weekend I have to do #3, #4, and the NOTORIOUS #6 plug. That's gonna be fun. :crib:

I'll update this thread this weekend.
 

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my truck is at 98,000 so i will be doing it soon. do i need any gaskets to remove the upper phlenum?
Nope. Just make sure the gaskets on the intake ports of the plenum itself are good and you're off to the races. Also triple check all your vacuum lines when you reinstall it or you'll end up having a very panicked couple hours wondering how you botched a spark plug swap.
 
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