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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So after doing the pre-compressor injection the turbo takes a ****. Not blaming the water injection but after i installed it and ran it for a day my truck starts smoking like hell.

The motor is fine but the oil seals in the turbo are not. So i have been forced to "upgrade"

I am still deciding between welding a T25 flange onto the stock manifold or tapping it for the T25 bolt pattern. I think the bolt holes would be too close for tapping and the turbo flange would over lap the exhaust manifold in a few places. Leaning towards welding.


In the stock turbo's place i will be using a GTi-R T28 which is supposed to be good for 330hp on a gasoline motor so it should be a small upgrade from the stock turbo.

If any one is curious the stock oil feed fitting is a 12x1.25mm thread pitch and the coolant block fitting is 14x1.5mm.

I have ordered

1x V-Band Adapter - GT25/GT28/GT307X-WG Series
1x V-Band and 3" Machined Flange and clamp Set
2x (SS) Stainless Steel 90 Degree Elbow - 3.00" Diameter (OD)
1x (SS) Stainless Steel 45 Degree Elbow - 3.00" OD
1x -4 size Oil inlet fitting for GT28/30/35R with built-in restrictor
1x 12mm (1.25 Pitch) to -4 AN Flare Fitting
2x 14mm Banjo Fitting Set for coolant lines - 3/8" Barb
1x Oil Feed Line -4 - SS Braid 4 Ft.
6ft 3/8" Hose, Black, Re-inforced Rubber, 300psi, 3/8" barb or -6 pushlock
2ft Hi Temp Rubber/Silicone Oil Drain Hose - 5/8" (-10 AN equivalent ID)
10x 8mm (1.25pitch) Stud
10x 8mm (1.25pitch) Nut, Locking Head
1x Gasket, 2 bolt, 3inch, Re-inforced Metal
2x Oil Return Gasket - GT Series
1x Flange Mild Steel Generic 2 Bolt 3"

Will get some pix up soon of where im at with things


Stock exhaust manifold


Where the new flange will go


Close up


Square exhaust ports
[/IMG]
The damage
 

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don't look like damage from the WI.
this gives an idea of what happens with faulty WI
pre-turbo compressor damage - Devilsown Methanol Alcohol Water Injection



the seal failure could be from turbo rpm gettign to high. however these have much better control system and from what i have seen adjust the turbo to suit so the turbo dosn't over rev. the pre turbo injection should have made the turbo rpm go down a bit. (makes more boost so ecu opens vanes to slow turbo to get normall air flow).
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
yeah i am not sure why they went

there is some damage to the blades like that on the blown stock turbo so i will not be using pre-compressor injection any longer. does not make sense for a daily driver in my honest opinion

i have the GTi-R turbo re-clocked and since it has different inlet and outlet mountings i will have to get a little creative but nothing too serious.

I have some time before the stuff from ATP gets here so i can sort that out in the mean time.

Will have to figure out if i can adjust the stock GTi-R actuator to 19-20psi lol
 

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seams a few where having problems with the check valve sticking open due to crap in the water. with open check valve or no check valve every time the pump stops the water goes from fine mist to a steady stream untill the pressure is right down. that can do damage.

pays to make sure you have a good filter and only use good clean water (ie rain water or distilled).
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Well here are the pics of the "new" turbo in its new home!


New flange on stock manifold ...no going back now!


2nd pic


T28 goodness :)


shot from under the truck, there is about 6 inches of clearance between the turbine and the fire wall, hopefully that will be enough for the ATP v-band adapter and a 90* bend to clear.


Just need to shorten the length and ad a 90* bend down to the compressor outlet


Another shot of the hot side IC pipe


the intake i SHOULD be able to get away with a 180* bend cut in half and rewelded so that it makes an odd L shape if that makes sense (it will come from the turbo, come forward, turn up then turn right into the stock intake box


Just a shot of how the actuator will be positioned, i will have to bend and modify the bracket im getting from ATP but it looks VERY doable

I will be seeing if i can get the compressor inlet and outlet adapters fabbed up soon but this is pretty much all i can do till i get the rest of the stuff in a few weeks :(
 

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Discussion Starter #7
got half of the oil feed line done today, the stock oil feed fitting on the GTi-R turbo is 1/4 NPT flared so i was able to just use a 10" brake line with the 1/4" npt male fittings on both ends. I adapted 1 end to a -4an male to connect to the braided line i have coming from ATP :).
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
after looking at a few things over i got a friend to pick me up while he is in florida

ATP's
2" 3 bolt compressor outlet flange
3" 2 bolt compressor inlet flange
a 2" to 2.25" 90* silicone bend to go from the compressor outlet to the hot intercooler pipe

That stuff will simplify the plumbing to the turbo for me substantially

Also got some couplers from siliconeintakes.com ....they charged me $34 shipping and on the box it said $11.98 :( not pleased i gave them $22 for free but whats done is done.

Fingers crossed everything should be here by next week end :)

Also in a magnificent brain fart i realized that the GT and T series turbo's share the same thread pitch on the oil supply port. The GT series needs a restrictor as it only needs a little oil and the T series needs all the oil it can get to support the journal bearings. I can remove my brake line adapter and just drill out the ATP fitting i am getting and connect it directly to the braided line :)

siliconeintakes.com sent me a wrong coupler damn it.

i ordered
3 x 2"-2.25"
1 x 2.5"-3"
and one 3"-3.25".....they sent a 2.75"-3" instead so i have to wait for them to send out the right coupler on monday ....that was the intake to MAF coupler and at the rate the post sent that order it will be 2 weeks before i get that coupler....ARGH! i wonder if duct tape would seal for the time being lol
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
well the stuff i got fedex'd on friday from ATP arrived :)



i want a CNC machine for christmas lol

the rest of the heavy stuff i ordered last week that is coming by boat should be here this week fingers crossed


sexy water banjo fitting, the ATP bolt actually has 3 holes to supply the banjo where as the stock bolt only has 2 so that should help with keeping the turbo 2* cooler LOL


a shot of my friend that welds handy work with the Navara oil drain tube welded to the GTi-R flange, more metal tubing = less silicone to succumb to heat and oil :)


Times getting closer! Looking like an engine now :D don't mind the 3 different color couplers...i working with what i got!
 

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Discussion Starter #11

cold pipe welded....i need to scuff up the polished side so it matches lol





New welded intake pipe

will get pictures installed when i get home :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
LOL thanks AlmeRick

some more pics...

shot of the cold side IC pipe, fit like a glove!


shot of the cold side IC pipe from above


Shot of the engine bay with the cover on

It seems i couldn't read the tape measure right and screwed up the intake piping so in my moment of frustration i decided to ***** up the stock air box and retro fit an air filter to the stock lopped off MAF.

I modified a $15 cone filter to work with the stock funnel and silicone'd the stock funnel back to the MAF, will post pictures of that even though its not pretty....i will be locating a 350Z/Murano/Altima/Maxima MAF to use so it will be cleaner looking.

here is the intake...just waiting on a 3.25"-3" coupler


and with that all of the intake and intercooler pipes are finished :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Everything is here tomorrow so look for lots of pics and what not.

Problem is i was removing the 2 old studs from the manifold i was using to mock up the turbo location etc and one decided it wanted to stay so it broke :(

i have it 75% drilled out, just need 1 larger size, a pick and a tap to chase the threads out

getting really impatient now!

my defi gauges (EGT & temp) are around 3 weeks away too :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)


a mock up of the down pipe :)

Major problem :(

it seems i need to fit a 3" bend in 3" of room....imfarkingpossible




sigh, seems i have gotten some work cut out for my friend that does my fabrication lol


Actuator being fed its boost signal directly from the compressor housing, had to cut and bend the actuator bracket to get it angled right


Over all shot


shot of the block fittings/lines
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Should be running tomorrow hopefully!


kept the stock coolant feed setup the same, the line T's between the upper coolant outlet, turbo and a lower port on the block


the oil feed line i got was a little long but i would rather that than too short, if anyone will be attempting this in future, use a 3 foot feed line not a 4 foot


shot of the DEI protective hose sleeving


all the vacuum hoses all zip tied up and as need as possible

I will not be using the stock solenoid at the moment, i am not sure if this will throw a code, if so i will be plumbing it back in to see how it functions

Here are some pictures of the primary down pipe







i still have an oil leak in my exhaust and its smoking like mad

sigh...engine rebuild ahead methinks :(
 

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Discussion Starter #18
well the good news is that the turbo i got locally is no good so a GT2860 is being ordered on monday :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
slight change of plans lol

in order to keep debt down i have ordered a rebuild kit for the T28 i have and have been given a blown HKS GT2540 to steal the compressor side from. It will be a bastard turbo but for $100 i cannot complain.

If that one fails to meet my needs then i will resort to the GT2860, it would be the one with the 0.86 A/R turbine housing (same as Blue Navara's but not the Tial V-band turbine housing)
 
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