Some of the Installs / mods I've done

15743 Views 88 Replies 14 Participants Last post by butterman2473, Jun 1, 2022

butterman2473

Discussion Starter · Jan 12, 2020 (Edited)

Installs and mods done to my 2004 Nissan Frontier XE KC KA24DE

Tint - 3M Color Stable -
Front 35%, Rear 5%
Windshield tint -
3M Crystalline 70%

Audio -

Headunit - Kenwood DNX892
Speakers - Infinity Reference REF-6520cx components
Sub - JL Audio 8" powered subwoofer ACP108LG-W3v3
4 ch amp - Kicker Key 180.4

Electronics Electronic device Technology Audio equipment Camera

Vehicle door Material property Auto part Automotive wheel system Wheel

Vehicle Car Automotive exterior Bumper Auto part

Radar Detector - Uniden R3 hardwired and modified w/ extended power and alert leds and extended to ~~armrest~~ cruise control switch mute button

Vehicle Car Luxury vehicle Mid-size car Windshield

Black Font Footwear Leather Hand

Bed lights - Installed with photocell switch on dash & reed switch on tailgate for prevention of accidental battery drainage

Vehicle door Automotive exterior Tire Automotive tire Vehicle

Electronics Electronic device Technology Gadget Wire

Autoloc one touch window modules w/ PAC-TR7 universal triggers to operate windows with keyfob/remote

Alarm -

Code Alarm CA1553 w/ 5 sirens (originally had wired in a dual zone proximity sensor to roll up windows when triggered. It worked but I had to ditch that feature)

NEVER LOCKED OUT MOD-

Installed a reed switch inline between SECU unlock wire and ground under my cowl vent (unlocks w/ magnet)

Autometer Spek Pro Temp Gauges - engine coolant temp and trans temp

Electric Fan System -

BMW dual temp fan switch
Volvo dual relay 2 speed fan controller
Volvo 2 speed fan integrated into my oem shroud

Text Line Diagram Parallel Floor plan

125 Amp Alternator -

Motorcraft GL-421 modified and installed

www.clubfrontier.org

H.O. Alternator installed

My new 125 amp alternator has been installled. I originally installed a junkyard 125 amp alternator a few weeks ago as a test run to see if it'd fit and it was a success. I pulled it from a 2001 Mercury Villager. It had a lot of rust and the brushes were extremely worn and it functioned properly...

www.clubfrontier.org

www.clubfrontier.org

-Tailgate lock cylinder & camera swap
-Tailgate actuator install
- Side mirror led blinker install
-Xterra map light installed w/ diodes and override power switch
-Redline Tuning Xterra Hood Strut install
-Under hood light and retractable light from mid 90s Chevy Truck install

- 2nd Gen Frontier EZ Down taigate assist installed on my 04 1st Gen

- Fixed the doors not staying open problem.

www.clubfrontier.org

Fixed my CHECK LINK ASSY, FRONT DOOR

I was so very tired of my doors closing on me whenever I was parked facing up on the slightest of inclines. The check link assembly or door strap (part #80430-3S500) is discontinued and not available new from any dealership in the U.S. There is a low quality aftermarket part available from...

www.clubfrontier.org

www.clubfrontier.org

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iwillnc

· #2 · Jan 12, 2020

I like all this, giving me great ideas. We think the same way on the tint, that’s another on my to do list, I go to work with the sun in my eyes and come home with it in my eyes - time to fix this.

Reactions: 1

butterman2473

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jan 12, 2020

Dynamat and Dynaliner install on doors, floor, roof and rear wall

Metal Trunk Auto part

Vehicle Engine Auto part Car Technology

Vehicle Ceiling Car

Footsie gas pedal and 4-toed parking brake pedal (actually a dimmer switch pedal)

Vehicle Car Auto part Automobile pedal

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butterman2473

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jan 12, 2020

The 3M Crystalline series is a mostly clear tint that has better heat and uv rejection than darker tints. It does reduce glare but for direct in your face sun a pair of high quality sunglasses with polarized lenses may be a better investment.

GrandPirateDave

· #5 · Jan 13, 2020

How is the hood light connected? Is it a manual switch or hood-open switch?

butterman2473

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jan 13, 2020

There's a tilt bearing type switch in the bulb mounting base of the under hood light and the retractable light that's mounted to the fender well has a on/off lever. Power and ground from the Blue Sea fuse block that's mounted on top of the oem under hood fuse block.

I changed it up and broke off the glass of the hood bulb and soldered the positive wire of a led strip to the contact of the broken bulb which contacts the tilt switch.

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GrandPirateDave

· #7 · Jan 13, 2020

damn I wish I could solder lol thanks for the info!

Reactions: 1

YEGFrontier

· #8 · Jan 13, 2020

butterman2473 said:
Dynamat and Dynaliner install on doors, floor, roof and rear wall

Would love to hear your thoughts on the dynamat install. Was the reason to reduce road noise, and if so, did you find it made a significant difference?

RyanD1966

· #9 · Jan 13, 2020

YEG, I've only done my doors so far and even that was a very noticeable difference. Closing the doors now makes a very satisfying, solid thunk like a Mercedes Benz S-Class closing.
In the Spring, I'm going to do rear cab floor and the rear cab bulkhead below the window, Raine noted that that made a significant difference, as well.

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Why make it only good enough when you can double the budget and build it like NASA?
Exterior: 5 LED light bars, 2 x 16" bumper mount, 1 x 42" roof mount and 2 x 22" side-mounts, 2 LED lighting pods, APG iArmour steps w/ illumination added, LED cargo and reversing lamps. M226 axle vent mod, Firestone RideRite airbags.
Engine Bay: Group31 Battery w/ custom cables, K&N filter, 7 circuit fuse & relay bank, ECT sensor alum adapt, 630CFM trans cooler fan - thermo & override swtch, IPP hood struts. Cabin: Dynamat equiv in doors, all interior LEDs, engine coolant and transmission temp gauges by AutoMeter, overhead console 6 switch control bank. Suspension: 1.5" Titan Engineering wheel hub spacers, OEM Pro4x wheels. Audio: Morel Maximo 6.5"s, Sundown Audio 2.75" midtweets
Cargo Bed: Ridgid toolbx, GlassFibre shovel, adze and sledgehammer > UtiliTrak - OverlandBound Member# 16310, HAM FCC Ident - call sign: KC3RWJ

Reactions: 1

butterman2473

Discussion Starter · #10 · Jan 13, 2020

RyanD1966 said:
YEG, I've only done my doors so far and even that was a very noticeable difference. Closing the doors now makes a very satisfying, solid thunk like a Mercedes Benz S-Class closing.
In the Spring, I'm going to do rear cab floor and the rear cab bulkhead below the window, Raine noted that that made a significant difference, as well.

View attachment 312704

View attachment 312705

I don't know what the Mercedes Benz door closing sounds like. The only comparison I can make is the difference between the closing of a hollow core and a solid core door in a home.

Reactions: 1

butterman2473

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jan 13, 2020

YEGFrontier said:
Would love to hear your thoughts on the dynamat install. Was the reason to reduce road noise, and if so, did you find it made a significant difference?

To insulate and reduce road noise. Significant difference especially in the temperature of floor and tunnel. I'll install it on every vehicle I own from here on out.
There was nothing but air between the roof and headliner and the padding under the carpet is so very thin.
For the record, I only have Dynamat on the doors...no Dynaliner. Everything else has both the Dynamat and Dynaliner.

Reactions: 2

GrandPirateDave

· #12 · Jan 13, 2020

maybe it's just me, I rather enjoy some noise in the cockpit when I'm on the road. Let's me feel more connected to the road and the vehicle.

GrandPirateDave

· #13 · Jan 13, 2020

wait...bed lights??

butterman2473

Discussion Starter · #14 · Jan 13, 2020

GrandPirateDave said:
wait...bed lights??

Yessir. And I wired them up, in the best way that I could think of, to be worry free. Worry free in regards to accidental battery drainage.
A few things have to happen in order for them to turn on.
1. Rocker switch has to be on.
2. It has to be dark out or the photocell switch has to be blocked.
3. Tailgate must be open.

If I was parked or driving during the daytime with my tailgate open and I didn't notice that the rocker switch was in the on position...no worries because the photocell switch will keep the lights off.

Reactions: 1

RyanD1966

· #15 · Jan 13, 2020

butterman2473 said:
I don't know what the Mercedes Benz door closing sounds like. The only comparison I can make is the difference between the closing of a hollow core and a solid core door in a home.

Okay, think difference closing a Geo Metro door and a Cadillac XTS door. One rattles, and sounds tinny and hollow. The other sounds more like a bank vault closing ka-thunk. That's how I'd attempt to describe it.

Why make it only good enough when you can double the budget and build it like NASA?
Exterior: 5 LED light bars, 2 x 16" bumper mount, 1 x 42" roof mount and 2 x 22" side-mounts, 2 LED lighting pods, APG iArmour steps w/ illumination added, LED cargo and reversing lamps. M226 axle vent mod, Firestone RideRite airbags.
Engine Bay: Group31 Battery w/ custom cables, K&N filter, 7 circuit fuse & relay bank, ECT sensor alum adapt, 630CFM trans cooler fan - thermo & override swtch, IPP hood struts. Cabin: Dynamat equiv in doors, all interior LEDs, engine coolant and transmission temp gauges by AutoMeter, overhead console 6 switch control bank. Suspension: 1.5" Titan Engineering wheel hub spacers, OEM Pro4x wheels. Audio: Morel Maximo 6.5"s, Sundown Audio 2.75" midtweets
Cargo Bed: Ridgid toolbx, GlassFibre shovel, adze and sledgehammer > UtiliTrak - OverlandBound Member# 16310, HAM FCC Ident - call sign: KC3RWJ

GrandPirateDave

· #16 · Jan 13, 2020

butterman2473 said:
Yessir. And I wired them up, in the best way that I could think of, to be worry free. Worry free in regards to accidental battery drainage.
A few things have to happen in order for them to turn on.
1. Rocker switch has to be on.
2. It has to be dark out or the photocell switch has to be blocked.
3. Tailgate must be open.

If I was parked or driving during the daytime with my tailgate open and I didn't notice that the rocker switch was in the on position...no worries because the photocell switch will keep the lights off.

Are you talking about the Cargo Light above the bed, or lights inside the bed itself?

butterman2473

Discussion Starter · #17 · Jan 13, 2020

GrandPirateDave said:
Are you talking about the Cargo Light above the bed, or lights inside the bed itself?

Under the bed rail lights.

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Reactions: 2

butterman2473

Discussion Starter · #18 · Jan 13, 2020

RyanD1966 said:
Okay, think difference closing a Geo Metro door and a Cadillac XTS door. One rattles, and sounds tinny and hollow. The other sounds more like a bank vault closing ka-thunk. That's how I'd attempt to describe it.

Never been in one of those vehicles either.

MiniDuti

· #19 · Jan 13, 2020

butterman2473 said:
Never been in one of those vehicles either.

Just like you described the home interior doors..

I want to do the bed lights also, having a shell really stays dark in there.

mrreality1313

· #20 · Jan 13, 2020

butterman2473 said:
There's a tilt bearing type switch in the bulb mounting base of the under hood light and the retractable light that's mounted to the fender well has a on/off lever. Power and ground from the Blue Sea fuse block that's mounted on top of the oem under hood fuse block.

I changed it up and broke off the glass of the hood bulb and soldered the positive wire of a led strip to the contact of the broken bulb which contacts the tilt switch.

thats so simple its scary, i really dig it

Reactions: 1

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