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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello!

I recently bought a 2000 SE V6 4x4 Crew Cab, this my first Nissan, and I love this truck and im doing my best to repair/restore it to the best condition that I can. I bought it for $2500 with 181k on the body, and 130k on the motor. I have lurked this site for lots of helpful info over the last 6 weeks. However I have not found a situation that resembles mine in its entirety. I hate to get long winded, but I think a little background is going to help with the solution.

I bought this truck from a friend, he had the truck for a few years, and it worked great for him. One day he was coming back to Indiana from a smokey mountain camping trip in Tennessee. The check engine light popped on, and the truck started to shudder and shake, and nearly stall (typical of failed CKP in some of the other threads I found). He was able to get it back home and get it scanned. The only code present was a p0335 CKP sensor. So he had it replaced, however the symptoms still existed. He then had the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires replaced, along with a new bearing inside the distributor. After this the truck was running fine but the p0335 was still on, this is the point in which I bought the truck.

Now, after I have the truck, I notice everything seems to be fine, P0335 is still on. After a few days of driving I realize that while im at a stoplight, or parked with the motor running at idle. After every 5-6 seconds, there is a slight shudder (very slight, it took me a few days to notice) it causes the truck to shake ever so slightly, you can feel it in the seat and steering wheel, almost like a minor misfire. Then it returns to normal for a few cycles, then again, etc. etc. So after reading up, I decided to change the distributor in order to sync up the new CKP sensor with a new cam sensor in the distributor. After doing so it appears that this had little to no effect on my symptoms at all, and after clearing the codes, they promptly returned after a few miles of driving.

The P0325 (Knock sensor) didn't come on until the day before I put my new distributor in. This could be from any number of things, but I figured i'd throw it all in one thread in case anyone has ideas. The gas mileage on the truck since ive owned it (approx 3 fill ups) has been around 11-12 mpg. Which is slightly less than expected but not a huge deal. So I decided to see if it was a timing issue. I fiddled with the distributor timing for about an hour, advancing and retarding, this had absolutly no effect at all. So getting ballsy trying to get some kind of baseline result, I did a full retard on the timing. Started the truck, its struggled at first, then ran like normal after a few cranks, drove it around the block, fine, everything seems like it has always been, codes still present but no changes, so I did the opposite, I advanced it all the way. Same results, codes still present. So then I placed everything back the way it was, ( I used a sharpie, and a scoring marking to make marks on the metal around the timing bolt.) I returned them to normal. The problem still exists, I assumed that doing a full advance, and retard on the timing had no effect if the knock sensor is actually doing its job? Im not sure any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Update, a few days later the P0325 is gone, but the P0335 is still present, as is the slight mis/shudder, at idle every few cycles. I know that the CKP is just for the ECU and diagnostics and not really a huge deal, and honestly I can deal with it and just scan once a week for new codes if needed, but im trying to find out if this is related to the shudder or not. This shudder symptom was not present with the previous owner, I had him drive it and he said the truck did have smooth idle prior to the Tennessee trip. Its more of an annoyance than anything.

Other items I have checked include:
Fuel filter, its been replaced and looks good.
Fuel pressure, is solid within spec.
Air filter,and MAF have been replaced.
Gas tank and fuel sending unit have been replaced recently under recall at local dealer.
Voltages at the CKP, I don't have a scope so I used a multimeter. They are good at the CKP and the distributor.
Changed oil, it was clean and looked healthy.

Any advice, pointers, or other places to look for trouble would be greatly appreciated.
In the mean time, Ill continue to drive it as a daily commuter, and work on its suspension needs. Ill start a build thread soon to track the overall progress and upgrades of the truck with photos.

Thanks!
--Miles
 

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You need to replace your knock sensor. Should fix the issue
I don't think so, this is an idle problem and the knock sensor shouldn't detect knock at idle?

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If his timing is off it will. On my 2003 xterra I had the issue do to a stretched timing belt which caused it to skip a couple teeth. The knock sensor is supposed to retard your timing if it notices a knock. But if your timing is already off it can't do it's job.... have you checked your timing?
 

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If his timing is off it will. On my 2003 xterra I had the issue do to a stretched timing belt which caused it to skip a couple teeth. The knock sensor is supposed to retard your timing if it notices a knock. But if your timing is already off it can't do it's job.... have you checked your timing?
Sounds like he doesn't have a timing light and he was just moving it around to see if things changed

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If his timing is off it will. On my 2003 xterra I had the issue do to a stretched timing belt which caused it to skip a couple teeth. The knock sensor is supposed to retard your timing if it notices a knock. But if your timing is already off it can't do it's job.... have you checked your timing?
Sounds like he doesn't have a timing light and he was just moving it around to see if things changed

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Yeah, get a timing light and check it. Or take to a shop and have them check it. How many miles since your timimy belt was changed? They recommend every 100k
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks, guys.

I do have access to a timing light and I intend to check it out this weekend.. I have also ordered what I need to relocate the knock sensor, so I could disconnect it during this operation and test it. However the knock sensor code isnt always present. I feel that if it gets timed right it will probably go away. The odd thing is that it came on before I put in the new distributor, having made no changes to the car before hand. Anyway im not sure when the timing belt was done either, which is why I also ordered a new timing change kit from rock auto along with the knock sensor relocation equipment, and some new serpintine belts. I intend to change all of it over the next week or so. This may help things, and I could report back after im finished. However my main concern was that the P0335 remains on even after the CKP and ignition was changed, and for several weeks it was the only code present, as was the shudder at idle while all other operations where fine. I was trying to isolate each problem individually, but I think maybe I should get in there change everything, get it timed, and then see what happens, and if I still have problems, Ill report back.

Thanks Guys!
 

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Thanks, guys.

I do have access to a timing light and I intend to check it out this weekend.. I have also ordered what I need to relocate the knock sensor, so I could disconnect it during this operation and test it. However the knock sensor code isnt always present. I feel that if it gets timed right it will probably go away. The odd thing is that it came on before I put in the new distributor, having made no changes to the car before hand. Anyway im not sure when the timing belt was done either, which is why I also ordered a new timing change kit from rock auto along with the knock sensor relocation equipment, and some new serpintine belts. I intend to change all of it over the next week or so. This may help things, and I could report back after im finished. However my main concern was that the P0335 remains on even after the CKP and ignition was changed, and for several weeks it was the only code present, as was the shudder at idle while all other operations where fine. I was trying to isolate each problem individually, but I think maybe I should get in there change everything, get it timed, and then see what happens, and if I still have problems, Ill report back.

Thanks Guys!
Sounds like you have a plan. Let us know how it goes.
 

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Is the shudder/change in idle possibly just the A/C compressor coming on and off?
 

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For what it's worth I've had a slight shudder at idle since I got the truck. It isn't steady, it's intermittent. Never had any misfires logged.

I've been through many sets of plugs, caps and rotors over the years. For unrelated reasons I've put in a new maf, new distributer, new plug wires, new o2 sensors, new injectors, air filter, intake and head gaskets, knock sensor, a few timing belts and timing changes, engine mounts, crank sensor... Pretty much anything that could be related to the issue I have taken care of for other reasons

It has never went away

My vacuum is a steady 20 inches at idle and my AFR stays around 14.7 at idle with under 10% correction

The only thing I can think of is the aftermarket cheap distributer could be causing it, but that's a lot of money to throw at the problem to buy an oem one when I'm not sure if it will fix it

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Has the timing belt ever been replaced? At 180K, I sure hope that it has. If the TB has never been changed you should NOT drive your truck. If the belt breaks you can have the pistons hit the valves (Interference Engine).

The tiny shutter, is this while the truck is stopped and in park or stopped in drive. My 3.3 will slightly shutter while in park after it warms up. Always has done this from when I bought it. It's shutters just enough as though it catches it self up from the RPMs dropping ever so slightly.

Your exp has zero to do with a bad Knock Sensor. On the 3.3 the KS goes bad at around 40k miles and probably 90% of the Frontiers probably are running around with a bad KS and no one notices until they do a check with a scan tool. A bad KS will not turn on a CEL.

The CPS wires could be bad or the plug could be bad. You would need to get get a volt meter on the wires to test. I doubt two CKPs could be bad but you should check the CKP too. Since you covered the plugs, wires, & distributor I think those are all good and if the CKP wires and CKP check out then you need to start looking at what could trigger a CKP error besides a bad CKP . I'm thinking it could be a jumped tooth on the timing belt see here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda...sor-problem-after-timing-belt-change-3109162/
 

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For the purpose of testing, yes.

However, I was wrong. The idle skip returned even with the KS disconnected.
 

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Miles, you might want to check the ignition timing. I saw in my Chilton's that a miss at idle could be poor timing so I decided to check. I followed the timing procedure in the Nissan manual and found it to be too far advanced, by about 5 degrees. After resetting the timing and idle, its pretty damn smooth now.

The manual states you have to disconnect the TPS before checking timing (and a few other steps). I wonder if the timing was off because someone didn't follow the correct steps.

Anyway, I consider my idle problem to be fixed now. :)
 

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Mileschatterji.....did you ever get that light to go off I'm having the same problem....code p0335 I've practically done everything you did. Last thing that I'm about to do it check the wiring from ECM all the way to the sensor and check any other wiring that is connected or related to that diagram
 
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