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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2000 Frontier V6 3.3L 5speed with 208,000 miles on it. It recently threw a SES light.. first time i have seen it in 6 years of ownership. It just so happened to occur right as I was about to sell it.

The codes it threw are:
P0325 - Knock Sensor
P0505 - IACV

I understand that the KS will not trigger a MIL so I have ignored the issue. It has probably been bad for years and the truck drives perfectly fine.. just a MPG issue which the next owner can deal with.

I am more concerned with the IAC valve. I was hoping to remove and clean it before I decide that it needs replacing. I am having trouble locating it. Anyone know where it is located on the 2000 VG engine? Is it difficult to remove? Any gasket concerns? I am not looking to spend much money since I don't plan on owning this vehicle long, I just don't want to sell a POS, and the SES light is an issue when selling. Any advice would be appriciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
UPDATE:
Okay so I finally got my garage cleaned out so I could pull my truck into it and work on it without melting in this crazy heat. I took the upper plenum off along with all the vaccum and coolant hoses, air intake, and EGR valve. Once I got the plenum off I was suprised to find another "spiderweb" of hoses attached to the underside of the plenum which were all blocking the IAC valve. I removed the spiderwebs along with the additional coolant and vaccum hoses and finally got access to my IAC valve.

I performed the following tests on the valve:
1. checked to see if it was recieving power from the battery. (Did this by checking for voltage on the electrical connector to the valve on the engine.) It read 12.3V.... pass
2. checked the resistance on the valve to make sure it was within specs. It read 10.0 Ohms.... pass
3. Checked the plunger to make sure it was operating correctly.... pass

Since the valve seemed to be in perfect working order with no apparent shorts in the circuit I decided just to give it a good cleaning, replace the gasket, and put it back together.

I did notice that the last mechanic who worked on my truck decided to only use one bolt to bolt on the EGR valve because he was lazy. I decided to also clean the EGR valve, replace the gasket, and add the additional bolt while I was at it. I also cleaned out all of the coolant/vaccum hose that were on the plenum because most of them were super clogged with carbon build up.

I finnaly got everything back together on my truck last night... hooking the furthest coolant hoses, the ones way back up next to the firewall were an extreme PITA! Once back together I fired her up. It was sluggeish at first, but after a few revs she droped into a perfect idle, 750 RPM. I mean... the truck purrs. No rattle at all. I have never heard the truck idle like this in the entire 80,000 miles of owning it.

I let her warm up to operating temps to make sure there was no coolant leak and to perform the Idle Air Learning procedure. No leaks found.

I decided to take it to work this morning to fully test her out. I fired her up this morning and the cold start was a MESS. I mean it wanted to stall right away..... I had to rev her for a good 30 seconds before she would idle right. After that she drove like a dream and idled perfect at 750 RPM.

Any ideas on the super rough cold idle?
 

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I have no answer for ya. However mine threw the SES and i had it checked by my mechanic and he said it was running lean and that it looked like it was the Injectors. He cleaned them up for me but the light came on again after about 3/4 of a tank. He told me that the Nissan's don't seem to be handling the gas with ethanol in it to well. My Nissan has 89,000 miles on it and i guess that is a logical reason. But i was thinking if it wasn't the injectors then maybe its the pump of fuel filter since that would be the only other reasons it would be lean.

Then i asked a knowledgeable friend of mine that works at Advanced Auto Parts if he had any idea and he said that when the O2 sensors show up a high voltage reading it means the car is running rich. And after running the car for a min in the parking lot we could actually smell the gas some. So i'm not really sure who to believe cause the Mechanic hooked the truck up to do a full diagnostic on it and thats what he found out but then i can smell gas after it runs for a min. That doesn't really make sense to me. if anyone has had this problem before and their O2 Sensors reading high voltage then please help me out.

Also Mortivore My truck doesn't Idle well either. When i come to a stop light and wait for a min on the light it starts to get rough but it only lasts for a few seconds then goes away and then it will come back and go away again. It also takes a second or 2 longer than it should to start. but the Bat, and starter and Alternator are all good so im not really sure where to look next.
 

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UPDATE:
Okay so I finally got my garage cleaned out so I could pull my truck into it and work on it without melting in this crazy heat. I took the upper plenum off along with all the vaccum and coolant hoses, air intake, and EGR valve. Once I got the plenum off I was suprised to find another "spiderweb" of hoses attached to the underside of the plenum which were all blocking the IAC valve. I removed the spiderwebs along with the additional coolant and vaccum hoses and finally got access to my IAC valve.

I performed the following tests on the valve:
1. checked to see if it was recieving power from the battery. (Did this by checking for voltage on the electrical connector to the valve on the engine.) It read 12.3V.... pass
2. checked the resistance on the valve to make sure it was within specs. It read 10.0 Ohms.... pass
3. Checked the plunger to make sure it was operating correctly.... pass

Since the valve seemed to be in perfect working order with no apparent shorts in the circuit I decided just to give it a good cleaning, replace the gasket, and put it back together.

I did notice that the last mechanic who worked on my truck decided to only use one bolt to bolt on the EGR valve because he was lazy. I decided to also clean the EGR valve, replace the gasket, and add the additional bolt while I was at it. I also cleaned out all of the coolant/vaccum hose that were on the plenum because most of them were super clogged with carbon build up.

I finnaly got everything back together on my truck last night... hooking the furthest coolant hoses, the ones way back up next to the firewall were an extreme PITA! Once back together I fired her up. It was sluggeish at first, but after a few revs she droped into a perfect idle, 750 RPM. I mean... the truck purrs. No rattle at all. I have never heard the truck idle like this in the entire 80,000 miles of owning it.

I let her warm up to operating temps to make sure there was no coolant leak and to perform the Idle Air Learning procedure. No leaks found.

I decided to take it to work this morning to fully test her out. I fired her up this morning and the cold start was a MESS. I mean it wanted to stall right away..... I had to rev her for a good 30 seconds before she would idle right. After that she drove like a dream and idled perfect at 750 RPM.

Any ideas on the super rough cold idle?
I'm having the same issue after having removed and re-installed my intake manifold. I took it back off and removed the IAC valve to clean it out. Unfortunately, the gasket came off in pieces and I can't find a source for another one. Did you find one or just make your own?
 
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