[dcobb]

So ever since I lifted my 2003 CrewCab EX (3.3L non supercharged) and put on 32" BFG tires, its lost some pep. I did add a Magna Flow exhaust which helped a little and gave it a nice rumble but it didn't make up the difference alone.

I don't wan to mess with a performance cam being I really don't want to crack open the engine, and I want to wait on an ECU upgrade until I’m done with all bolt on upgrades first.

So what I want opinions on:
Air intake upgrade vs headers vs whatever else there may be. Seems like the air intake would be simple enough for me to do, whereas the headers I’m not so sure. in the end I may do both but for now I’m thinking an air intake kit might be first on the priority list due to it’s low cost and ease of changing. Please feel free to confront that opinion if you have a better idea.

Questions:
AEM sells the brute force air induction kit (21-8500) for $223
spencerlowracing.com sells the aFe setup for $140 + $10 shipping
K&N's kit is $225

So basically which one of these would you guys recommend, or recommend something else if you prefer. I'm open to ideas. They all come with washable filter media, however the one from Spencerlowracing is by far the cheapest. Is it comparable? If they’re all about the same I’d probably opt for that one on price alone, so please opinions!!!

Thanks!

 

[Mylt1]

how about just regearing? that will give you back what you lost.

 

[JoshuaTest]

Mod your stock intake..

since you already have an exhaust... you can improve your airflow by removing the resonators...

i removed all three... Stock exhaust, and can notice a differance...

 

[dcobb]

It's a good point and i did consider that a little. Guess my thinking was why bother to spend money gearing it down (which is probably something I'd have to pay to have done too), when i can spend money in other ways and simply increase the power and thereby make up for the difference.

It's a good point though and maybe i should consider it a bit more.

Please keep the ideas coming and if anyone cares to comment on the various air intake systems I'd sure appreciate it.

Mod your stock intake..

since you already have an exhaust... you can improve your airflow by removing the resonators...

i removed all three... Stock exhaust, and can notice a differance...

Suggestions on the intake brands? Also can you elaborate on what the resonators are and how one might remove them? I dunno what they are or what there purpose is.

Thanks!

 

[TIMMAY]

I have a 2001 SE and just recenlty installed an Airaid cold air intake and I'm very pleased. It gave my engine a good throaty sound. What I hear from most people, is that all intakes are really about the same. Some are easier to install which is why I went for the Airaid. Being a person with practically no engine experience, it was very easy to do myself. My next two mods will be exaust and headers. If your going to open up your air flow you might as well do all three mods. Just doing two in any combination will give you a bottle neck in air flow somewhere. After that I'll probably do my ECU and be happy with that.

 

[steve0616]

I removed the resonator here is a link to the topic on this: http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/showthread.php?t=4672

Gears would make a big difference.

 

[JoshuaTest]

yes... see the post steve put a link too...

i posted a link to a xterra site that had some pics...

I removed all three myself...

1. between intake and throttlebody, purchased a 1.5" cap at home depot to seal it off...

2. the one in your front drivers side fender that was kinda a pain to get out, but well worth it... then left that one opened to draw more air...

3. the small one that goes from just behind your radiator to the intake box by the air temp sensor...

I have been really pleased... And as steve was telling me in that post, he took his aftermarket intake off because of check engine light, and couldn't notice the differance in the modded intake vs. the aftermarket one...

Even if you purchase the other one down the road... Its worth a shot... The resonators have to come out for aftermarket intakes anyway, so your just one step ahead...

 

[dcobb]

Great great advise guys. I really appreciate it and I’m learning!!! So my question is when you remove these resonators, for the ones you don't cap, they allow the engine to suck in more air, but is this non filtered air? Would be a shame to have a rock fly into one and start chewing things up. Also is removing these illegal as far as emission tests? In other words what's the downside if any? I figure the dealerships just don't put them on for looks??

Also does anyone have any pictures on this? Otherwise I’m liable to remove something else

And as far as the brand of the air intake kit. Is the general consensus that A. it doesn't matter or B. It doesn't really do anything to add one in the first place? Kind of confused by Steve's comments regarding the Volant / K&N blurp

 

[RedAlert]

With your rather large tires(for your truck), I would regear the diffs. The amount of power that an intake would give, will not make up what you have lost due to rotating mass. Most Haines type manuals will tell you how to set up the gear lash and stuff for the diffs, and the parts are not outrageously expensive. This will do you much better than an intake kit

 

[steve0616]

Great great advise guys. I really appreciate it and I’m learning!!! So my question is when you remove these resonators, for the ones you don't cap, they allow the engine to suck in more air, but is this non filtered air? Would be a shame to have a rock fly into one and start chewing things up. Also is removing these illegal as far as emission tests? In other words what's the downside if any? I figure the dealerships just don't put them on for looks??

1) Removing the resonators opens a big hole in the air box to allow more air to get to the filter and pass through it. The openings that are created are in the fender wheel. There is still the inner fender cover blocking any debri to get to the openings.
2) I still pass the emissions test with no problem and I dont see a downside to the mod.
3) The whole point in the resonators was to reduce intake noise from the air being sucked into the engine.

Also does anyone have any pictures on this? Otherwise I’m liable to remove something else

Stock intake assembled:

Image with descriptions:

And as far as the brand of the air intake kit. Is the general consensus that A. it doesn't matter or B. It doesn't really do anything to add one in the first place? Kind of confused by Steve's comments regarding the Volant / K&N blurp

A)All aftermarket intake do the exact same thing. Just add a bigger high flow filter and a heat shield or intake box.
B)I dont see the point in adding an aftermarket intake on our truck. Just remove the resonators and save the extra money you whould have spent on the intake on something else.

 

[JoshuaTest]

The air is defanately still filtered... draws more air before the filter...

Those are some great pics....

Feel free to PM me if you run into trouble taking them out...

 

[shinermiller]

do all "bolt on" mods, chip/tuner whatever yall want to call it, and re-gear it! hell why not. only thing if u ever want to take it back to stock, those gears will be there and the 32's wont...

 

[Mylt1]

regearing is the only true way to get it back. everything else is just trying to compensate for that loss. as far as going back stock it will just make the truck faster off the line with a slower top end.

 

[dcobb]

Thanks for the pics and I'll have a look at the truck and start sizing things up. The one thing I'm curious of though is i totally understand why you'd want to remove the resonator in the wheel well area as it will allow it to draw more air and breath better. I don't understand what removing the other two and capping them does? Not only that but wouldn't it be more beneficial to leave the small one by the sensor open so it too can suck in air since it's before the filtration? I figure I'll look to do this anyway as louder is always better, heh...

Also regarding the re-gearing, can someone point me to some good info there as well as where to buy the gears themselves? I'll take a look into that cause i ain't ever dropping back down to my stock 29" tires again. And if i did, then it would just be even faster i suppose...

Thanks again for all the great input, please keep it coming, I'm trying to soak it in!

 

[JoshuaTest]

I'm not mechanic... But if you leave the smaller one open... It will be sucking hot air from the engine... The air in the fender well is cooler...

And i suppose that removing the one that you have to cap leaves one less place for the air that gets past your filter to go...

I don't know exactly how to explain it... But i can tell you this... I did notice a differance.. and i'm on stock exhaust... with a upgraded exhaust, you should defanately notice it...

 

[Mylt1]

you need to find out what rear axle you have and the front trans axle. then just do a search for ring and pinion gears. once you find out post up and i will see what i can find for ya.

 

[dcobb]

Again many thanks for all the input! As far as the gearing goes I’ll look into that in the near future as well as possibly getting a header set. However for the immediate future I'm thinking about the Air filter box assembly.

Steve & Joshua
I've read through you're guys’ thread and the thread Joshua found on the Xterra and between those and eyeballing what's in my truck it's starting to make sense.

Here's my thinking thus far regarding the existing OEM setup and what & how one might mod it or replace it with an FIPK. And please feel free to scrutinize all you want.

1. The OEM air system consists of the intake tube roughly 9” long which contains a port on the back for the 1st resonator (which technically is resonating filtered air). This resonator can be removed and the tube capped off with either a 1 ¾” or 1 ½” plug (depending on who’s post you follow). Also there are two smaller 1” tubes on the front, of which the hoses seem to disappear into the engine area. I have no idea what or where they go but assume they remain untouched. Also in a FIPK it appears they are still utilized in the same manor.
2. Next there’s a 3” connector which connects the intake tube to the air box. It has a sensor on top of it which should remain and would also still be utilized in the same manor in an aftermarket FIPK as well.
3. Next is the filter box itself, the top of which contains filtered air, then the filter media in the middle, finally the bottom section containing two major inlet tubes
4. The inlet tube on the bottom which splits into two sections. The smaller section on the left which curves around and anchors just above the radiator this section (or resonator if it can even be called that) can be removed and the tube capped off with a 1” PVC cap. The larger section on the right leads into the fender and it appears to be the main and only air intake. This section should just be left alone. In an FIPK this entire inlet would be removed or N/A

Note: As the tube splits there is a sensor mounted on top which I’m assuming should remain, however with an aftermarket FIPK it would appear this sensor would have no use or not even be applicable. I’m curious if anyone can elaborate more on what this sensor does and what happens where an FIPK is involved?


5. The other inlet tube on the upper right leads into the fender and connects to the largest of the resonator chambers. This chamber can be removed and the connecting tube left open to allow more draw. Again in an FIPK, this section would be removed or N/A

Please let me know if I’ve misunderstood any of this.


So it sounds like I could remove the resonating chambers, capping off two and spend just a few bucks and some elbow Greece.

The alternative would be to buy an FIPK (K&N, AirRaid, ect) for $200+ which essentially eliminates all 3 of the OEM resonators anyway (regardless if you remove them or not), and incorporates a simple, smooth, non restrictive intake tube, which essentially dead ends at the filter itself. The main arguments being, does modding the OEM air filter (removing the resonator chambers and opening up an additional air inlet) compare to a $200 FIPK. Regardless of the power increase (which I’m guessing is minimal either way) it will make it noisier either way. Bearing that in mind I see no reason why not to try modding the OEM one first.

Final thought / questions – is Heat Soak really a real threat for our frontiers? More to the point if one were to install a FIPK in which the filter is no longer drawing its “cold” air through the fender, but rather though the side of the main engine compartment, which is semi blocked off with a heat shield in any way a valid concern? Secondly if PVC caps are used on the 2 resonator tubes, can the standard primer / cement that one would use on PVC okay to use in this application to bond the caps to the tubes or is it even necessary? My concern here would be possible misfires caused by the fumes of the cement. Granted it may be only a 1 time concern but still…

Okay sorry for such a long post, just trying to understand this very clearly.

 

[HKYStormFront]

http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html...c&ps_session=fa9b9e4382d538b185a01c31b2c8eadb

check that page, those are R&P sets for your truck. but like shiner said i wouldn't pay all that money if you don't plan on keeping it for a while. although with bigger tires you are putting more stress on the drivetrain and this will allow it to work the way it was orginally supposed to...

 

[JoshuaTest]

your pretty much right on... The cap I used was just a simple PVC screw in cap that they have at home depot... I just simply took a tape messure in, and measured the diffrant caps they had. No glue needed. I just simply plugged the whole, then used the existing clamps to secure it... Although it was a tight fit anyway... Its fatter on the outside part, so no risk of it sucking in...

I did remove all three myself... small one by radiator.. I just plugged... The sensor there is a tempature sensor... I think it just takes the temp of the air thats being drawn in... I don't know that it actually has any other significant use, however there is no problem with leaving it there in this mod... So i just did that...

The one in the fender is in my opinion the biggest benifit... I removed it completely, then left the outlet facing that whole in the fender to draw air from there in addtion to the orignal intake... It just simply draws more air now... Actaully... At idle, when i open the drivers door, i can hear it sucking air in the fender... Never heard that before... I do have the K&N drop in too... If your gonna do it.. Get the drop in filter...

i am sure there are people out there who can give complex explanations on how a aftermarket intake would benifit more than this one.. but at a average cost of over $200.00... I'm pretty happy with my venture...

Also... the fender resonator... Its kinda a pain to get out... as you read in the other post... there are two bolts... the front one is easy to get to... the back is under the ABS... I just ripped the plastic instead of removing the ABS to get to that bolt... No damage to the truck, Its just i won't be able to remount that resonator... (Like i would ever want to...)... Just a thought...

 

[carphreak]

uhm its a little pricey but if run out of power adders, might i suggest a supercharger? alpine developments sells a kit utilizing an eaton supercharger for vg33 engines.
check it out: http://www.alpine-developments.us/nissansc.html