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2019 Pro-4X (20,000km)
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2019 Pro-4X. Due for a tire rotation and really not interested in letting the dealer empty my wallet to do it...

That said, I only have a floor jack and two ramps and an electric impact driver. What else is needed to really do this safely, considering I need to lift two wheels off the ground (unless I want to get the spare involved - I would not). Are a couple jack stands enough? Anything else needed?

1) Lift front and place stand
2) Lift rear and place stand
3) Swap wheels
4) Repeat on other side
5) Torque all appropriately

My biggest question is where to really place the jack stands as to not damage vehicle and keep it safe. Image from owners manual so I assume OK (on all 4 corners?) but sometimes there are better ways. Also, can I move the jack stand point inwards safely - will it damage the axle to place it a bit further in? Conflict with my floor jack is why I ask.

Edit: ALTERNATIVELY - Can I lower the axle so it is resting on a wheel ramp? I have two 13,000 pound wheel ramps - was thinking of jacking up, then maybe using those as axle stands?


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I'm pretty sure in the manual it states there is a notch in the frame where to put the jack/stand...
 

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I'm pretty sure in the manual it states there is a notch in the frame where to put the jack/stand...
This is what I always do. Place the stands under the framerails. I have six so I often place two on each side if one end's up in the sky, if the one slips or gives way somehow, there's a backup. May be overly cautious but somehow the idea of dropping 5k# doesn't appeal to me in the least. Especially if I'm under it at the time. For the front, I place the jack on the lower control arm at the coilover lower bracket and lift from there. Apparently for the rear, lifting the pumpkin is acceptable. I have two jacks also, an aluminium one and a steel one, so you can never have too much safety.
I would recommend against using a wheel ramp as a jackstand. Never tried it, doesn't sound very safe.
Ramps are designed, engineered and expected to have the load of the one corner of the vehicle spread across the face of the tire tread contact patch, not in an unexpected contact point that may be very much smaller than a tire, such as the edge of a brake disc. That concentrated point loading could lead to failure, if the ramp is composite and not steel. The right tool for the right job.
 

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When I do mine I just do front to back and use jack stand under spring perch in rear then just jack up lower control arm with floor jack and place 2nd jack stand under pinch weld under door mirrors (you'll see slot for factory jack) for safety while keeping pressure on lca with floor jack. Switch tires then do other side same way. Then with all 4 on ground torque lug nuts all around. Takes about 30 minutes with cordless lug wrench. Just be sure to set park brake and chock opposite front wheel from one you're working on.
Clean mating surface with small wire brush and apply thin coat of anti-seize to mating surface of hub without getting any on studs or rotor brake surface. Make sure wheel is FULLY seated to hub on install. Wheels are hub-centric so easy to get them not seated fully.
IIRC the torque values on my alloys is like 105 lb/ft. I usually torque to 100# after using 90# torque sticks on cordless.

Hope this helps.

And ramps should be fine if jack stands aren't available if they're high enough to keep tires off ground.
 

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I loosen up all lugs while on the ground.
Then jack up the whole rear and put jack stands on both sides on axle closest to ubolt.
I chock front passenger side and jack up front driver.
Remove both driver front and rear tires.
I roll the front driver over to pass side rear and Driver Rear mounts up to Driver Front.
Lower Front driver back down and do the same thing on passenger side.
I do the rearward cross pattern(#3 in illustration)
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ramps won't help much as you need to pull the wheels off.
If you are sure the impact can free the lug nuts then you should jack the car up and then zip off the nuts. If not then use a wrench to loosen the nuts while the tires are on the ground. Only break the nuts loose when on the ground do not remove them as you don't want the wheel to shift on the studs when you jack the car up especially on the opposite corners.
You can get by with only 2 jack stands, but you need to work off the jack as a rotation involves crossing the tires. I'd jack up the rear and set on the stands, then remove those rear wheels. When jacking on the rear with the stock jack, I jack on the axle and set the axle on the jack stands too. Then jack up one front corner at a time and swap those to the rear.
If using the stock jack I jack on the pinch weld in the front. When setting on the stands I set it on the frame at the little reinforced and marked spot. I think there is either an arrow or a diamond on the frame indicating the spot.
 

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I rotated the tires on my 1998 Frontier last Saturday, F to R, and R to F, same side. I used one jack stand and my floor jack. Then I did the second side. Used my torque wrench for final tightening.
 

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I've never liked reversing direction of tires going with x pattern with radials. Call me paranoid, but after a tire has been subjected to forces for 3 to 5k one way then turned 180 and subjected to same forces just screams belt separation. But then again I'm a bit of a tin hatter so pay no attention to me! Lol.
Only way I would do that is to pop the tires off rims then keep tires rotating in same direction on appropriate wheel. Then you have to deal with white/black wall issue.
 
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I've never liked reversing direction of tires going with x pattern with radials. Call me paranoid, but after a tire has been subjected to forces for 3 to 5k one way then turned 180 and subjected to same forces just screams belt separation. But then again I'm a bit of a tin hatter so pay no attention to me! Lol.
Only way I would do that is to pop the tires off rims then keep tires rotating in same direction on appropriate wheel. Then you have to deal with white/black wall issue.
For the two years I was at Goodyear from 90 to 92, we never rotated any other way but the X-Pattern for rear and 4wd vehicles. Never saw a single tire issue. The myth of belt separation's from the early days of radials, 60s and early 70s. No issues now. I cross mine.
 

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Uh...yeah...I mentioned using the ramps under the axles in place of stands.
I wouldn't use a ramp as a jack stand. I do a lot of questionable stuff safety wise, and even I won't do that.

I do seasonal swaps of wheels and tires. I also rotate at this time. I can do one corner at a time because I have the right wheel free to install without having to pull it off another corner. I use a floor jack on the rear diff and the front cross member to get 2 wheels at a time. I just finished 12 tires for my own cars, and helped my buddy do 8. Now I have to wash them all and store the winters for the summer.
 

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For the two years I was at Goodyear from 90 to 92, we never rotated any other way but the X-Pattern for rear and 4wd vehicles. Never saw a single tire issue. The myth of belt separation's from the early days of radials, 60s and early 70s. No issues now. I cross mine.
I just put some Nokian enTyre 2.0 in 225/60r16XL on our VW camper van. One of the only XL rated all seasons available. Just heard a thread separation story on one of those on a 6 year old and 18K tire. ekkkk.

Generally I agree, I X all of mine and have never had an issue.
 

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Are a couple jack stands enough?
Yes, you can do a tire rotation with a floor jack and two jack stands.

The quickest but not the safest way would be to:
  1. Set parking brake.
  2. Break all lug nuts loose, but do not remove (usually one turn per lug nut is sufficient).
  3. Lift front of vehicle using the crossmember.
  4. Place jack stands under frame (explained further down).
  5. Remove floor jack.
  6. Lift rear of vehicle by placing jack under differential.
  7. Remove wheels.
  8. Put wheels in new positions.
The truck will be balancing on two jack stands in the front and the floor jack in the rear. You obviously don't want to get underneath the vehicle or rock it really hard.

Anything else needed?
Four jack stands would be safer, but it's not needed.

1) Lift front and place stand
2) Lift rear and place stand
3) Swap wheels
4) Repeat on other side
5) Torque all appropriately
This is the rotation pattern used for directional tires. If you have nondirectional tires, I'd go with the "rears go straight forward, fronts cross over" pattern. That pattern will ensure that each tire cycles through each of the four positions on the vehicle.

My biggest question is where to really place the jack stands as to not damage vehicle and keep it safe.
For the rear, under the rear axle is fine. For the front, I'd put the jack stands under the frame rails on each side, approximately under where the driver and front passenger footwells are.

Also, can I move the jack stand point inwards safely - will it damage the axle to place it a bit further in?
Yes, you can put the jack stands anywhere along the axle tube. No, it will not damage anything. The only thing that becomes an issue is stability. If you put jack stands on either side of the differential, they will be close together and it will be easier to tip the vehicle off the stands.

Can I lower the axle so it is resting on a wheel ramp?
Technically yes, but ramps are nowhere near tall enough. You'd have to lift the vehicle higher in order to put the wheels back on.
 

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The manual lists the jack points as at the frame behind the front wheels and at the rear axle next to the rear leaf spring bracket. The question is, where to then place the stands?
 

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The manual lists the jack points as at the frame behind the front wheels and at the rear axle next to the rear leaf spring bracket. The question is, where to then place the stands?
Anywhere that's solid. Stay away from core support, oil/trans pan and sheet metal. Frame, lca bushings, axle tubes, etc. are ok.
 

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Technically yes, but ramps are nowhere near tall enough. You'd have to lift the vehicle higher in order to put the wheels back on.
Remove rear wheel.
Lower rear axle onto ramp.
Exchange front tire with rear tire.
Raise rear, install rear tire.
Quick and safe.
If you need to gain height with the ramp, add the blocks under the ramp.
 

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Here's a suggestion that 90% of people don't realize. This is especially true with Discount Tire/Americas Tire. When we bought my wife's Buick, I went to Discount, they carried the OEM tire. For $24 per tire I bought their road hazard plan, which includes lifetime balance and rotate and free flat repair. Every 5k i took it in, let them service and inspect the tires. I've since learned, that most large tire shops (not tied to one brand) also offer this same idea, as long as the tires have under 1,000 miles on them.

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I just took mine to discount tire yesterday and they did an X rotation for $0! that is the way to go!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Remove rear wheel.
Lower rear axle onto ramp.
Exchange front tire with rear tire.
Raise rear, install rear tire.
Quick and safe.
If you need to gain height with the ramp, add the blocks under the ramp.
Perfect. You solved my dilemma and this should work perfectly and saved me the cost of buying some stands. I have a slanted driveway which works beautifully for other service work combined with the ramps, but the tire rotation was eluding me.
 
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