First, I have stood on the shoulders of others in regards to this mod, primarily joefrontier2, and XE KING. Here is a detailed "how to" for those of you who are interested in the knock sensor relocation mod for supercharged Nissan vehicles, which I have successfully completed on my own 2001 S/C Frontier 4 X 4.
I couldn't figure out how to embed pictures in this post so here is a link to photobucket where I posted all my pics for this project:
Pictures by GothamEMS - Photobucket
The parts list:
The wiring harness, availability through Courtesy Nissan: $19.48
HARNESS AS :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com
A 1999 Nissan Maxima Knock Sensor: $134.79
RockAuto Parts Catalog
Go to Nissan-1999-Maxima-Emissions-Knock Sensor
SS M8-1.25 50mm Bolt
SS 8 Flat Washer
Before you start, disconnect your battery, it will reset the ECM, I had mine disconnected for approximately 4 hours.
I relocated the knock sensor to the rear most bolt on the S/C, closest to the firewall, see pics. I removed the OEM bolt. I chose a SS bolt for a replacement because I could not located a hardened replacement bolt, SS is harder than what I had available. I know what you guys are thinking, SS is not a good ground, but I took 120 grit sand paper and sanded the bottom of the new knock sensor as well as the surface of the S/C it was to make contact with. A little alcohol wipe, and it made a perfect ground through the sensor, which is exactly what you want. I used a M8-1.25 50mm Bolt, which is different from the N/A KS relocation bolt, and a SS #8 flat washer.
My route included working my way to the rear of the engine, locating the knock sensor and wire from the EMC, on the passenger side, between the engine block and the lower intake manifold. This is not an easy task at all, it is way down there, I could feel the connection between the wire and knock sensor but for the life of me, and an hour + later, I could not get my fingers positioned to disconnect it, sooooo, I ripped the wire right out from the sensor. The end of this wire, which is from the ECM to the KS, is a coaxial type wire, a single white core wire surrounded by another bare silver wire wrapped around this core. You will need to strip the white core wire, segregate the bare wire, and prepare them independently for soldering.
Next, get the harness you ordered and cut off the female end which does NOT fit on the new knock sensor, the end with two wires is the correct one. The end that fits on the knock sensor has ONE wire, DO NOT CUT THIS END. After removing the appropriate female end, you should have two wires, one white, and one CLEAR, the clear wire should be copper in color, strip them both.
Next, on the ECM side of the connection, you should have one white wire and one bare wire (silver in color), this is the coaxial style wire mentioned above. On the knock sensor side of the connection (the new harness with the proper female end removed), you should have one white wire, and one clear wire (copper in color). Connect the white wire on the ECM side to the clear (copper colored) wire on the KS side. Connect the bare (silver) wire on the ECM side to the white wire on the KS side. White to white is not right! Please see pics on this explanation
I made all of the electrical connections with solder and heat shrink. I used electrical tape to wrap the new harness, which mirrors all OEM electrical connections located under the hood.
I waited approximately 4 hours before reconnecting my battery. She started up without any problems, ran great, so I drove to my local Autozone to have them read the ECM.....NO KNOCK SENSOR CODE. Previously, before this mod, it always read a knock sensor code, without throwing a service engine light.
The superchargerd knock sensor relocation mod is very similar to the normally aspirated knock sensor relocation mod with the exception of the intake manifold bolt size.
This is a modification I performed on my own vehicle, which I'm eagerly looking forward to seeing if my fuel mileage increases. If anyone has any questions regarding my post or needs help with their own relocation, PLEASE do not hesitate to ask!
Thank you for reading,
Jerry Pictures by GothamEMS - Photobucket
:wav:
I couldn't figure out how to embed pictures in this post so here is a link to photobucket where I posted all my pics for this project:
Pictures by GothamEMS - Photobucket
The parts list:
The wiring harness, availability through Courtesy Nissan: $19.48
HARNESS AS :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com
A 1999 Nissan Maxima Knock Sensor: $134.79
RockAuto Parts Catalog
Go to Nissan-1999-Maxima-Emissions-Knock Sensor
SS M8-1.25 50mm Bolt
SS 8 Flat Washer
Before you start, disconnect your battery, it will reset the ECM, I had mine disconnected for approximately 4 hours.
I relocated the knock sensor to the rear most bolt on the S/C, closest to the firewall, see pics. I removed the OEM bolt. I chose a SS bolt for a replacement because I could not located a hardened replacement bolt, SS is harder than what I had available. I know what you guys are thinking, SS is not a good ground, but I took 120 grit sand paper and sanded the bottom of the new knock sensor as well as the surface of the S/C it was to make contact with. A little alcohol wipe, and it made a perfect ground through the sensor, which is exactly what you want. I used a M8-1.25 50mm Bolt, which is different from the N/A KS relocation bolt, and a SS #8 flat washer.
My route included working my way to the rear of the engine, locating the knock sensor and wire from the EMC, on the passenger side, between the engine block and the lower intake manifold. This is not an easy task at all, it is way down there, I could feel the connection between the wire and knock sensor but for the life of me, and an hour + later, I could not get my fingers positioned to disconnect it, sooooo, I ripped the wire right out from the sensor. The end of this wire, which is from the ECM to the KS, is a coaxial type wire, a single white core wire surrounded by another bare silver wire wrapped around this core. You will need to strip the white core wire, segregate the bare wire, and prepare them independently for soldering.
Next, get the harness you ordered and cut off the female end which does NOT fit on the new knock sensor, the end with two wires is the correct one. The end that fits on the knock sensor has ONE wire, DO NOT CUT THIS END. After removing the appropriate female end, you should have two wires, one white, and one CLEAR, the clear wire should be copper in color, strip them both.
Next, on the ECM side of the connection, you should have one white wire and one bare wire (silver in color), this is the coaxial style wire mentioned above. On the knock sensor side of the connection (the new harness with the proper female end removed), you should have one white wire, and one clear wire (copper in color). Connect the white wire on the ECM side to the clear (copper colored) wire on the KS side. Connect the bare (silver) wire on the ECM side to the white wire on the KS side. White to white is not right! Please see pics on this explanation
I made all of the electrical connections with solder and heat shrink. I used electrical tape to wrap the new harness, which mirrors all OEM electrical connections located under the hood.
I waited approximately 4 hours before reconnecting my battery. She started up without any problems, ran great, so I drove to my local Autozone to have them read the ECM.....NO KNOCK SENSOR CODE. Previously, before this mod, it always read a knock sensor code, without throwing a service engine light.
The superchargerd knock sensor relocation mod is very similar to the normally aspirated knock sensor relocation mod with the exception of the intake manifold bolt size.
This is a modification I performed on my own vehicle, which I'm eagerly looking forward to seeing if my fuel mileage increases. If anyone has any questions regarding my post or needs help with their own relocation, PLEASE do not hesitate to ask!
Thank you for reading,
Jerry Pictures by GothamEMS - Photobucket
:wav: