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I purchased a set for my 2006 Pathfinder but I haven't gotten around to installing them, yet.
 

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I have them. Have had them for about 30k miles ago (6 months ago - May 2019) however, just picked up a P0306 code. I think that is also the cylinder that wore out a plug quickly in the very first 30-40k. I seem to have to change plugs ever 60-70k miles. I also changed the coils around 120k, now at 219k I may need to again. I think its just cylinder 6 and it may just be my truck being unique awkward... I will say that I never thought anything special about them as in smoother power, increased MPG and as stated benefit of increased in durability. NGK Laser Iridium's will be back in there after tomorrow probably with some coils. Other than that, 219 almost 220k and it still runs like a raped ape.
 

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. I think that is also the cylinder that wore out a plug quickly in the very first 30-40k.
You might want to check the injector tip on that cylinder, it might have some buildup on it or some of the holes are plugged. Something is going on in that cylinder.
 

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You might want to check the injector tip on that cylinder, it might have some buildup on it or some of the holes are plugged. Something is going on in that cylinder.
Thanks, I will check that out as well. Its been about 180k miles since I had any issues with that cylinder, may be random, but at it is a senior citizen now.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My order came in last week, along with some other parts I needed. Should be getting them installed next week some time. I have just over 70K and it runs clean, so it will be a fun experiment. Despite the pretty pictures and marketing hype I really don't expect to be able to tell any difference.
 

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More marketing hype, dont get sucked in. none of the iridium,platinum,or dilithium make a better or stronger spark then old style coppercore plugs, they only last longer so you can be lazy and not have to change them every 30K. They actually have more resistance so make a weaker spark than regular NGK's. You'll never find Iridium plugs in a professional race car of any kind.Much better to use the reg platniums and change them every 40-60K miles, less chance of getting corroded threads from being in there for 10 years or 100K.
 

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Ok, So didn't want to hijack this post on my trucks issue. I pulled the Ruthenium plug in question today, really hoping for it to be toast and the end of my problem as I keep a set around. Also, I would commonly agree with Bajasam in most vehicles though I can only speak for mine. I have run many other plugs and plugs have been probably my most repetitive repair or tinkering over the nine years I have been running this truck. I have found that the ever annoying, just run OEM, or stick with NGK statements that I see littered all over this forum to be very true. This is the first engine I have run (out of MANY) that really does seem only really like NGK's, specifically the stupidly expensive Laser IR's. Those are the only plugs that I have run in excess of 50k with zero issues and only changed out of concern for a long trip into the sticks or the like.

But back to the Ruthenium's. I think I love them. I have not noticed any of the advertised benefits and most likely because I do not have any of the needs that they were built for such as GDI, Turbo, or Supercharging. What I will say is that when I pulled the plug, it damn near looked new. So I pulled five of them (Ya'll know why 5) and they all looked great. I did change #6 since the coil was shot and repeated the issue in #4 when moved. So in all, I guess I don't care about the performance benefits, I am guessing they will out live the NGK LR's by 1.5 or maybe 2x the life. That alone is hard to imagine. So I changed the coil and all is well. Coils had about 90k on them and were Amazon cheap o's. But whats cheap if they lasted almost as long as OEM's I have included a few pics and when I said still look new, well, comparatively with mileage. I have pulled others out with simular miles and imeadiately replaced with LR's while laughing that I wasted more money on another gimick, i.e. Pulstar's and others. Hope this helps, I would reccomemnd and hell, they are $8-$9 a plug cheaper then the Laser Iridiums.
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I have personally "fixed" many a vehicle that the owner thought was surely blowing up. From burnt valves, blown head gasket to injectors, fuel pumps etc...etc... and after checking the codes, in EVERY case it was the wrong plugs. In one particular instance, a coil went out also. Coincidence, I do not know. Maybe the wrong plug contributed to the coil failing at the same time.

As it just so happens, yesterday was the day for me to put in a set of NGK Ruthenium. Not knowing any better at the time, one of the first things I did when I bought my truck three or four years ago, was to change the plugs...who knew at 50K they were still good? (supposedly). At that time, I used NGK Iridium NOT Laser Iridium. They were fine wire only on the electrode and not the anvil. As you can see, the engine did not like them, and has been giving me intermittent stumbling. Not enough to throw a code, but noticeable none the less.

I do not know where the persistent fable of not being copper core plugs comes from, but all the plugs I have ever seen are ALL copper core, it is the electrode and anvil material or plating that are different. That includes Iridium and Ruthenium. It's pretty easy to find out, just read... There are very specific resistance and ohm requirements that must be adhered to, to avoid damaging other ignition components.
Spark plugs are simply not something where anything will work. It has been like that for some time now. Unless you run a older truck with open plugs and a snow plow, I have yet to hear of anyone say that leaving the plugs in "too long" caused mechanical problems removing them.

So... anyways, I did a fair bit of research before using them, with the limited information I could find. They have the exact same electrical specs as the Laser Iridium plugs, so no worry there.
Ruthenium, like Iridium, is part of the same platinum family, however it is harder and has a higher melting point than Iridium. All qualities that help it hold it's shape longer, hence efficiency longer. The economic benefit, it is substantially less expensive, so that is why they cost less. The point is not to shave 5 seconds off the 1/4 by just changing plugs.

I also took the opportunity to put on a oil catch can on the pcv. After seeing the total amount of oil, and greasy grime in the throttle body and upper and lower engine manifold, I promptly ordered another one for the other side. It can be said that I am now a believer...

I hosed all the grime out with carb cleaner and MAF cleaner, including the engine manifold. Before putting in the new plugs, I spun the engine over a few times to purge the cleaner from the cylinders. Because of that, when I did go to start up for the first time, it blew a bunch of codes at me. So I let the engine warm some and settle in, then I cleared the codes and went for a short test drive.

Time will tell of course, but agree or disagree, it's my money and my choice, just like it is yours to do the same. I think it was time and effort well spent...
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Looks great! I cant believe I have not installed a catch can yet. I have complained about the amount of oil that runs through the runners for years. Surprised I don't consume oil in any quantity actually. I think most people would be satisfied with these plugs. Its a mentality of, is it going to cause harm? Looks unlikely. Are they going to outlast OEM? Looks likely. Will you save any money? Likely 19.99 vs 11.99 each from RockAuto.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Looks great! I cant believe I have not installed a catch can yet. I have complained about the amount of oil that runs through the runners for years. Surprised I don't consume oil in any quantity actually. I think most people would be satisfied with these plugs. Its a mentality of, is it going to cause harm? Looks unlikely. Are they going to outlast OEM? Looks likely. Will you save any money? Likely 19.99 vs 11.99 each from RockAuto.
RockAuto is my friend... I was honestly taken aback at how much oil accumulated. The $25 can I got on amazon is very nice and fully machined from aluminum, with O-ring seals. Came with numerous adapters and hose clamps. I do not know how they sell them so cheap for the amount of machine work involved, even for China.
 

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Ok, So didn't want to hijack this post on my trucks issue. I pulled the Ruthenium plug in question today, really hoping for it to be toast and the end of my problem as I keep a set around. Also, I would commonly agree with Bajasam in most vehicles though I can only speak for mine. I have run many other plugs and plugs have been probably my most repetitive repair or tinkering over the nine years I have been running this truck. I have found that the ever annoying, just run OEM, or stick with NGK statements that I see littered all over this forum to be very true. This is the first engine I have run (out of MANY) that really does seem only really like NGK's, specifically the stupidly expensive Laser IR's. Those are the only plugs that I have run in excess of 50k with zero issues and only changed out of concern for a long trip into the sticks or the like.

But back to the Ruthenium's. I think I love them. I have not noticed any of the advertised benefits and most likely because I do not have any of the needs that they were built for such as GDI, Turbo, or Supercharging. What I will say is that when I pulled the plug, it damn near looked new. So I pulled five of them (Ya'll know why 5) and they all looked great. I did change #6 since the coil was shot and repeated the issue in #4 when moved. So in all, I guess I don't care about the performance benefits, I am guessing they will out live the NGK LR's by 1.5 or maybe 2x the life. That alone is hard to imagine. So I changed the coil and all is well. Coils had about 90k on them and were Amazon cheap o's. But whats cheap if they lasted almost as long as OEM's I have included a few pics and when I said still look new, well, comparatively with mileage. I have pulled others out with simular miles and imeadiately replaced with LR's while laughing that I wasted more money on another gimick, i.e. Pulstar's and others. Hope this helps, I would reccomemnd and hell, they are $8-$9 a plug cheaper then the Laser Iridiums.
View attachment 312656 View attachment 312657 .
i just did my spark plugs for the first time this weekend at 105K. All the OE plugs looked good except for #6. Looked brown. Not as bad as the 2nd picture you posted above, but different than all the rest of the plugs. Maybe there is something with #6 that has a common problem. I know on some cars the outer cylinders do not get as much cooling, the water passages don't flow well, and the cylinder over heats.

I replace with NGK platinums, the same ones that came in the truck.

I also spent some time to scrub out the lower intake. There was a bit of accumulated oil in each runner. Of course while I was in there I dropped in a IMS.
 

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i just did my spark plugs for the first time this weekend at 105K. All the OE plugs looked good except for #6. Looked brown. Not as bad as the 2nd picture you posted above, but different than all the rest of the plugs. Maybe there is something with #6 that has a common problem. I know on some cars the outer cylinders do not get as much cooling, the water passages don't flow well, and the cylinder over heats.

I replace with NGK platinums, the same ones that came in the truck.

I also spent some time to scrub out the lower intake. There was a bit of accumulated oil in each runner. Of course while I was in there I dropped in a IMS.
Yeah, six has always been dirtier than the others on mine. Its always the first to look at if I have any thoughts of a problem. I travel a lot, so I often wonder if the fuel I get all over the continent is good. I run a can of Royal Purple Fuel System a few times a year, but I have always thought that to be which crafty wives tails. I don't really know if it helps, more like Redneck Insurance to me.
 
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