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Discussion Starter #1
Thanks in advance for any tips. This one is driving me crazy. About six months ago my 2011 Pro-4X started stalling at lights. I replaced the camshaft Position sensor on the drivers side and the stalling stopped. But ever since when the truck is not moving and sitting at idle in gear (think red light) the idle gets really rough for 2-3 seconds. The RPMs don't seem to move but the voltage meter drops when it happens. Seems to only happen when the A/C is on. I had a local shop flash a new ROM on the ECM stating this was a known problem that Nissan fixed but nothing changed.

The truck has no codes at all. It also does not stall and the power is fine. The only mod is a drop in K&N filter. Otherwise I use synthetic oil, and recently had the transmission, transfer case and both differential fluids changed. The truck has no known issues.

Any ideas at all?
 

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Don't know for sure but you can check into this I had same symptoms with my Camry turned out to be the IAC valve off the throttle body was dirty the needle couldn't seal simple to fix on that just cleaned it but know these Nissan's are finicky when it comes to messin around an cleaning the throttle body check other threads on throttle cleaning "Throttle relearn" an the problems that are associated
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the tip. It seems like most people who need to do a relearn are experiencing high idle. I have the opposite problem. However, I will totally try it again and see if it helps.
 

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Yes thats because they cleaned that plate and ecm computer doesn't know whats happening I meant be careful with that.

Sorry I should of just said I was experiencing the same as you on the Camry and it was the IAC valve(Idle Air Control valve) it acts kinda like a choke and when it got dirty the needle in there couldn't close so it ran like crap anytime it wasn't getting gas IE: coming to stops at traffic lights and couldnt run with A/c on
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. i did some research and that seems exactly like my problem. Unfortunately I don't think the gen2s have an IAC. I can't find any info on it. Do you happen to know what they replaced it with? I was going to go out last night and poke around but unfortunately the weather didn't make that an option.
 

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Maybe someone more versed in the Frontier will come forward l only have about 90k and have not had to do anything other than the starter when I picked her up in NY except the normal Tires battery brakes and change the oil an filters on this vehicle so far (knock on wood).
But since you already did 1 knock and what made you come to that conclusion??? And why didn't you do both aren't there 2 one for ea cam???
Other things to look at just in $$$ elevation are
Even though you do not have CEL lit if you have a scanner you could check for any pending codes
Check knock again ? I know if not put in exactly on spot they wont do their job
Air filter check all surrounding to make sure your getting airflow
Check exhaust/cats you know hand over pipe smell? muffler red hot?
Mass air flow that I know we have cause I had to put it in the CAI tube could try cleaning that
*Run a reputable cleaner through system I run either Berryman's($3) or Chevron w techron($5-6)in my tank since I was a kid and have been told by different mechanics other brands can cause other problems and I do it mostly because bad gas water makes anything run like crap I can't remember last time I've seen a station check for water when getting a delivery IDK maybe our tanks don't take in H2o because I live in TX lol
Fuel pressure again not sure what rating we should have or get and don't even think that this it is what your problem is from though
Fuel regulator now this could cause your symptoms also but don't even know where it is Ill look
Coil pack not sure how to or if you can check these though Ill look into it

Did a quick search since I'm home an found this you could check with him and see if they finally got it straitened out only thing is they had the code P0340 set
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/cam-sensor-replacement-71458/

I did just come across this as I was looking for a coil procedure and we do have it never saw one before and don't know anything about it lol but worth checking out as it describes your symptoms
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-intake-manifold-runner-control
 

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you should have that maf just after your kn filter. i wouldnt touch it with anything, but you should be able to spray some alcohol based cleaner on it. just for shits and grins i would toss a paper filter back in as well.


the rough idle leans me that way. the dying leads me to another cam or crank sensor. when mine went bad i had 3 go out within the same month. one a week almost, but those also had codes.
 

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I would:
Perform the Idle Air Relearn sequence (it can be a bit tricky, it usually fails for me when I rush it);
Change the air filter (seconding AndysLog);
Clean the throttle body and mass air flow meter;
Smoke test for a vacuum leak (probably a very small one if that's the culprit)

Without a DTC, I think it unlikey that a position sensor is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks a ton guys. Definitely appreciate the effort here.

I did check for codes - pending, active and stored. Nothing came up. I wish it had one, that would help me get started.

I took the entire air plenum apart yesterday. I could swear I can hear a vacuum leak but I couldn't find anything. I think I can just hear a constant hiss. I am going to clean the air filter really well tonight. I did check the throttle body and all of the connections and everything is really clean, minus a thin layer of sand from my last outing.

One other thing I noticed is the belt tensioner. Once I took things apart I could see it is bouncing a lot at idle. Turn the A/C on and it is almost in spasm. I wonder if that is causing me issues. Could be causing the belt to loosen and tighten constantly, changing the load on the engine.

If all else fails I am going to do the re-learn this weekend.
 

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does the hiss come from the rear passenger side of the motor? i believe thats fine. it pissed me off for years though. i think its air traveling through the plastic passages and making its way to the brake booster. i replaced the whole line, fittings, clamps, ect. everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Andyslog. Yes, sounds like it is the same noise you were chasing.
 

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You can check for a vacuum leak by spraying carb or brake cleaner over the intake, vacuum hoses etc. If it hits an open vacuum leak to intake it will bog or kill the motor. That's how we used to find them in my old wrenching days.
Also, mine ended up with an O2 sensor code but my '06 did the same a few times when a primary O2 sensor went bad. It started to stumble at idle when coming to a stop. Never died but came close. Also clean the MAF sensor. Pretty common to gum those up if you're using an oiled drop-in filter or if someone has in the past. Just spray it with some "sensor-safe" brake cleaner.
 

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does the hiss come from the rear passenger side of the motor? i believe thats fine. it pissed me off for years though. i think its air traveling through the plastic passages and making its way to the brake booster. i replaced the whole line, fittings, clamps, ect. everything.
The PCV valve and hose is also in that area between the engine and firewall on the starboard side.
 

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2001 Frontier v6. Periodic extended missing at idle. One code 325, knock senser one time, so not likely related.
Cleaned maf sensor with QD Elecronic spray, removed distributor cap, sprayed and gently scraped flakey grey oxides off posts face and smoothed the rough edge on rotor, then reinstalled cap.

Problem solved, idles great. ?
 
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