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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I went to the stealer the other day for an oil change and as usual the infamous list of things that need to be fixed was presented to me. One of the items the guy told that was really important for me to do was to replace the secondary timing chain tensioners due to a winding noise....price tag $1,500. They guy said that my oil pressure was really low due to wear and tear of this parts, that if they were to fail while driving it will pretty much kill my engine.

Please help, is this really something I must do? Or is this plain old stealership drama? If someone out here had this work done how much did you pay?

Thanks!
 

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next time you drive your truck close the window, turn off the radio, and listen for a high pitched whine that sounds like a supercharged car. you can usually hear the whine as soon as you let off the gas. the whine will be very distinct, you will not mistaken it. look on youtube for: "d40 engine whine."
 

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find a good local shop to do it. will save you a few hundred bucks. you'll also hear it if you mash the pedal.
 

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What is your mileage? It's covered under the 5 year 60,00 mile powertrain warranty.
I find it amusing that on any brand vehicle, the dealer can't hear or reproduce an issue while under warranty, but afterward will take your last dollar to your name looking for and repairing eveything that they now see.
I thought your oil pressure was directly related to your oil pump and bearings.
This issue is a known issue to Nissan.
Depending on your demeaner, many people have had "good will" repairs done by Nissan Corporate.

Clint
 

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... They guy said that my oil pressure was really low due to wear and tear of this parts, that if they were to fail while driving it will pretty much kill my engine. ...
That's a load of manure. There's no way that failing tensioners could be affecting your oil pressure. If one of your chains happened to fail, you'd be ruined, but the ever-increasing whining noise would drive you crazy long before a chain failure.

I really like Clint's summary on the maddening reality of warranty repairs at some Dealers! So true.
 

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The oil pressure thing is a bit mis leading. Yes, the tensioner is controlled by the oil pressure but I doubt it will really affect the oil pressure until the tensioner actually fails and the oil is just being shot out the top of it.

Just like the others have said, if you are within the 5yr/60k, it is covered by warranty. If you are out of it but close, it could be a good will fix if you go thru Nissan USA.
 

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the only way i could see the secondaries effecting oil pressure would be if one of the chains wore down one of the tensioner pistons to the point of it leaking the oil pressure that drives it you may lose a psi or two maybe. but unless you have an 05 they can't even see what your oil pressure actually is since the 05s are the only year with actual oil pressure senders, all other years just have a pressure switch that once it sees oil pressure it triggers the dummy gauge to go to its normal level. they would have to remove the pressure switch to put in a pressure sender to get an actual oil pressure reading so you can throw that oil pressure crap out the window. the chains could potentially break or cause damage to other components over time, if the chains break kiss your motor goodbye, i don't think anyone has let it go that long though. its not alot of money in parts but there is quite a bit of labor involved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you for replaying guys. By the way, the truck has 90K miles, so no warranty coverage for me :(.
I guess I will pay close attention to when the whining sound gets out of control and repair it then.
 

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I had the timing chain issue recently as well. Do a search for it, there's a lot of info on here about it. The youtube video is a big help as well. The dealers are very aware of the problem - a couple of TSB's about it (links in different posts on here). The dealer here quoted about $1500 for it too, but knocked it down to $750 for me on good faith. Look into the prob a bit more, if you do have the issue, you should prob get it fixed fairly quick - don't want to cause any more damage (the noise comes from metal on metal contact).
 

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the only way i could see the secondaries effecting oil pressure would be if one of the chains wore down one of the tensioner pistons to the point of it leaking the oil pressure that drives it you may lose a psi or two maybe. but unless you have an 05 they can't even see what your oil pressure actually is since the 05s are the only year with actual oil pressure senders, all other years just have a pressure switch that once it sees oil pressure it triggers the dummy gauge to go to its normal level. they would have to remove the pressure switch to put in a pressure sender to get an actual oil pressure reading so you can throw that oil pressure crap out the window. the chains could potentially break or cause damage to other components over time, if the chains break kiss your motor goodbye, i don't think anyone has let it go that long though. its not alot of money in parts but there is quite a bit of labor involved.
Some 06's have the real gauge. Mine certainly does. When I come off the highway from a long haul on it and sit at a stop light for more than 30 seconds, my oil pressure will gauage will drop like a stone to the very bottom safe mark, and fluctuate ever so slightly when I lightly rev the motor. I don't know when the cutoff was for the real "working" gauge though.
 

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The oil pressure thing is a bit mis leading. Yes, the tensioner is controlled by the oil pressure but I doubt it will really affect the oil pressure until the tensioner actually fails and the oil is just being shot out the top of it.

Just like the others have said, if you are within the 5yr/60k, it is covered by warranty. If you are out of it but close, it could be a good will fix if you go thru Nissan USA.
The low oil pressure claim may actually hold water...or oil if it suits you. haha, anyway, i own a 2006 4.0 frontier (bought it new dec. 05) had the infamous 'pegged oil gauge' in nov of 2013, i replaced the sensor with a Napa part. (65$ compared to the stealers asking 110$) turns our that the napa part operates the same as the switches in the 05's, so it gives an accurate read of what the oil pressure is doing as im driving (yes the 06 and on have 'dummy' gauges that will always read nominal). After the block warms up and i come to an idle stop, my oil pressure light will come on. Im at 114k miles now, and it idles just under 750 rpm, figured it just needed a tune-up, cause the pressure gets better if i rev the engine to 775 rpms. but after seeing the threads on the timing tensioners,and hearing similar noises on my engine, im going to have to look into having them replaced.
 

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It'd be interesting to see the results if someone teed in an old skool analog oil pressure gauge with an oil feed line. The readings would be hugely informative and error free.
 

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Thank you for replaying guys. By the way, the truck has 90K miles, so no warranty coverage for me :(.
I guess I will pay close attention to when the whining sound gets out of control and repair it then.
What year is your truck?
 

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Thank you for replaying guys. By the way, the truck has 90K miles, so no warranty coverage for me :(.
I guess I will pay close attention to when the whining sound gets out of control and repair it then.
No sense in waiting too long since it has to be done. I drove mine for 20k before it just got too loud and then dropped the $1500 to get it fixed. I was at 68k when it started and I took it in to hopefully get a good faith, no dice.
 

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mine started to whine at about 100K with synthetic and regular oil changes it now has 137K
i did it my self just took the day off swapped all chains/guides and water pump while i was in there.
it was not hard at all but the biggest pia was cleaning the cover and engine
found some pics here and on the web and also marked the chains before removal and i did not have to pull the intake and valve covers as some post said to do
so i can see why they charge so much
what does 1500 include? parts and labor?
 

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I'm looking at doing this as well, my truck's at 116K. Looking at a $1200 bill through the dealer ship. That is out the door price with labor, parts, and tax. Was wondering what else should be swapped out while they are in there??? Water pump, t stat, anything else? Was planning on getting this done in the next week or so. I also have to get a new fuel sending unit on my fuel pump but that seams simple enough I can probably do that, they wanted $450 just do to that.
 

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mine started to whine at about 100K with synthetic and regular oil changes it now has 137K
i did it my self just took the day off swapped all chains/guides and water pump while i was in there.
it was not hard at all but the biggest pia was cleaning the cover and engine
found some pics here and on the web and also marked the chains before removal and i did not have to pull the intake and valve covers as some post said to do
so i can see why they charge so much
what does 1500 include? parts and labor?

Thanks for the info, I bought my 2006 truck in June from the dealer and they called me a few days ago to say I was scheduled for a free oil change and check up. I took it in and they said they noticed a noise and I needed a new timing chain and it would cost $1,500. I have subconsciously I guess been hearing this whining sound they're talking about but being a 1st time Frontier owner, thought it was normal. I'm going to have my local guy do the work and I'll will report back on how things went. I have 164,000 miles on her and it's hard to believe that the problem just started since June. Buyer beware I guess, but they did say a new or 2nd engine was put in at some point with a previous owner. That's all neither here or there now really, what's important is that thanks to this forum, I have a chance to prevent a catastrophic engine failure.
 

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I also have to get a new fuel sending unit on my fuel pump but that seams simple enough I can probably do that, they wanted $450 just do to that.
It's not that bad. 1-2 hours max if you take your time and need to find tools. The hardest part is dropping the tank, you might need a person helping you if you don't have a good jack. Or just remove the bed to by pass it all together. The actual sending unit replacement is the easiest part about it all.
 
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