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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
One of my stock oval running boards has loose bolts and is tied on with hay wire by the previous owner so I'm trying to get it off to fix it up and repaint it to match the other side (other side is a new graphite colored one due to an accident.) But all the bolts are partially out and seized into what appears to be those zinc mushrooming anchors in the bottom of the tube (nutserts I think they're called). I thought I might be able to access the inside of the tube if I pulled off the plastic treads on the top but the philips screws just sit there & spin like this: http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f8/running-board-tread-211553/ Not sure what to try next, any ideas?
 

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I just looked at my OEM step rails and they appear to have a plastic cap on each end. I don't know what it would take, but the end caps on my tubes are plastic, and I assume, removable.

I would like to put some LED lighting inside (to light under) the step rail. Have not gotten around to trying the caps yet.
 

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There are screws on the underside of the rails holding the plastic endcaps on the rails. Should make my LED install possible, but not sure if you can get anything in there to hold the nut so you can remove it. I would cut them with a hacksaw and replace them with toggle bolts.
 

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One of my stock oval running boards has loose bolts and is tied on with hay wire by the previous owner so I'm trying to get it off to fix it up and repaint it to match the other side (other side is a new graphite colored one due to an accident.) But all the bolts are partially out and seized into what appears to be those zinc mushrooming anchors in the bottom of the tube (nutserts I think they're called). I thought I might be able to access the inside of the tube if I pulled off the plastic treads on the top but the philips screws just sit there & spin like this: http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f8/running-board-tread-211553/ Not sure what to try next, any ideas?
If bolts are seized you try penetrating oil? If metal on metal could try to heat them up too but not sure if too close to the plastic.

For the treads, when I installed them on my stock boards a few years back, I swapped them for stainless screws and noticed it would be easy to cross thread or lose it's bite in the plastic. I hand tightened then lightly screwed down until flush - try leaning the screw toward the sides to see if they can "bite" to be able to remove. Next would try a screw extractor but not sure if that would work.
 

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I would like to put some LED lighting inside (to light under) the step rail. Have not gotten around to trying the caps yet.
Not to thread jack from OP - led lights mounted on the lower rocker panel an option or have to be under the bars?

I had used a larger version of these led's on mine tied to the doors opening or hitting the remote. There are two bezels in each light package - one facing down the other out.

I posted some pics on page 2 of this thread below(pretty freakin bright).
Underdash and nerf bar LEDs
 

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2015 CC SL 4x4 - Lear Cap.
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If the rivnuts are spinning, three options, 1, above hack saw idea (hold the bolt with needle nose vice grips), 2 hold bolt/screw with needle nose vice grips and drill the head, 3, use a #50 or so size drill bit, drill right next to the bolt, as close as possible using the bit to hold the spinning insert while you remove the bolt, however if it's ceased, that might not work. I wouldn't use a chisel, it will mess up the hole real bad.
 

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Sometimes, you can just hold the nut with Needle Nose, and tighten a screw in the rivnet to see if it will bind for you again. might be easier to apply torque if you get a hexhead bolt of the same size.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK, thanks all for the tips! Yes the end caps come off, I can barely get my head in between the rear tire to look inside but I can see one of the offending nutserts. Looks like it's gonna be a hack job so what i'm gonna do is remove the running board brackets from the frame (soaked em in MooVit today) so I can work in a comfortable position, grab the bolts with vice-grips and hit em with a grinder with a zip wheel. I was thinking I'd like to forego replacing the nutserts and somehow nut & bolt to the brackets, i'll have to fashion some kind of nut holder (maybe just hold the nut in a wrench end with gorilla tape) onto a stick to get it into position.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Done! When I removed the hay wire the tube just lifted right off the brackets, lol! (There wasn't much left of the nutserts.) I removed the brackets anyway and ended up using a hacksaw on the bolts. Getting the new bolts on was a little tricky with my 17mm wrench taped to a metre stick inside the tube but it worked. Also tricky was getting all the brackets to line up with each other & with the right spacing so the assembly would line up with the frame holes when reinstalling on the truck. I used zinc plated nylock nuts inside the tube so they don't loosen off. All went well overall and I painted the tube Krylon hammer finish black, not exactly the same as the other side but close enough as you can't see them side by side anyway.
 
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