Nissan Frontier Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
New to the group. My son just got an '02 Frontier 2WD. Trying to remove the clutch master cylinder, and there are only 2 bolts that hold it in, but they prove almost impossible to get to. I've looked at youtubes and such, but no luck. Is there a write-up somewhere that could help me out, or some personal experience? TIA
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
374 Posts
welcome to the partay!!!!::grin::
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,064 Posts
New to the group. My son just got an '02 Frontier 2WD. Trying to remove the clutch master cylinder, and there are only 2 bolts that hold it in, but they prove almost impossible to get to. I've looked at youtubes and such, but no luck. Is there a write-up somewhere that could help me out, or some personal experience? TIA
My 1998 and 2004 2WD Frontiers are still on their factory clutch hydraulics, but I just went out and took a look-see for you. There are two NUTS that hold it in at the engine firewall, and the studs from the clutch MC protrude a fair bit. So you MUST use a 12mm DEEP SOCKET and a 2-inch extension/ratchet for this.

And use a 10mm flare wrench for initial loosening and final tightening of the liquid line; I recommend loosening this BEFORE unbolting the clutch MC, and try not to bend the hydraulic line, will make install easier. When refitting the fluid line, ALWAYS thread in by hand at least 3 turns to prevent cross-threading.

And when you're done with the physical R&R, then you get to bleed the clutch system at the slave cylinder; flush out all the old dirty fluid too).
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,195 Posts
Just my advice from years of experience as a Nissan tech: if you are going to replace the clutch master cylinder, then you should go ahead and replace the clutch slave, as well, especially considering it's a 15-year old truck. Often, when you replace one of these parts, the other is not far behind; plus, I wouldn't be surprised if the bleeder on the slave breaks off when you go to bleed it. It's also a good idea to check the hydraulic hose at the slave. The parts are not expensive, so I'd rather do it once and be done with it than have to fix it again shortly afterwards.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,892 Posts
... And use a 10mm flare wrench for initial loosening and final tightening of the liquid line ...
An excellent point Cusser. Years ago I buggered up the nut on my old Mitsu using a regular 10mm wrench. I learned too late that there IS a difference. <g>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,064 Posts
Just my advice from years of experience as a Nissan tech: if you are going to replace the clutch master cylinder, then you should go ahead and replace the clutch slave, as well, especially considering it's a 15-year old truck.
Very reasonable; that's what I do on my '88 Mazda truck, which are known for weak hydraulic systems.


Often, when you replace one of these parts, the other is not far behind; plus, I wouldn't be surprised if the bleeder on the slave breaks off when you go to bleed it. It's also a good idea to check the hydraulic hose at the slave.
Also reasonable.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top