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Discussion Starter #21
The tailgate protector came out looking like new. (y)

I have to ask. Where did you get the fender trim?
View attachment 308599
I have been trying to find out what these are ever since I bought the truck. Previous owner just said he took them to a “guy”. The application, IMHO, is basically to cover up rust spots on the fender lip. Underneath the plastic strip is some sort body wrap that is black. I can’t find anything online that even resembles this material. It does look good and I have had others ask as well. Unfortunately I will be ripping it off to replace with some tinted Monstaliner on the rockers and along the wheel lip, but I possibly wanted to reapply the same application over the liner later on. I will take some close-ups and maybe you will have better luck finding something similar if you are so inclined. I also have a few links stored pointing to something similar that I will find.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
The tailgate protector came out looking like new. (y)

I have to ask. Where did you get the fender trim?
View attachment 308599
Here are some close up pics.

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Some links from my searching:

 

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I think it’s the last link that is the closest. If you look at what they call eyebrows, they are all metal and usually chrome.
I'd like matte black. I think I'm going to wait until I complete the lift, tires and front bumper, then see how it looks. I was thinking(if I do, do it) of masking a 1" area of the fender edge and prep and apply bed liner spray. :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I'd like matte black. I think I'm going to wait until I complete the lift, tires and front bumper, then see how it looks. I was thinking(if I do, do it) of masking a 1" area of the fender edge and prep and apply bed liner spray. :unsure:
Understood. At some point all this is coming off for prep work for a liner. Monstaliner has about 4 or 5 reddish tints and just came out with a new one that I want to try to be as close to the factory paint as possible.

Transmission issues are delaying things I would like to have complete before winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Mod/Upgrade/Fix: Fix
OEM Standard fix - Sway bar stabilizer link
Completed: 6/12/19
Purchase Link(s): Advance Auto Parts

Associated Threads:
https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads/what-have-you-done-for-your-frontier-today-lately.25035/post-3800418

The dealer replaced the left side stabilizer link before I took possession as it had there was a slight clunk under that side and the bushings were worn. The right side looked fine at the time, but I felt that both of them needed to be new'ish eventually.

Standard process of jacking up the front end, removing the existing link, and putting in the new one. I pre-sprayed with some PB Blaster so the impact didn't have an issue with knocking out the old one.
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I chose a standard replacement part from Advance Auto as it was easy to buy online and go pick up within an hour as well as a few cans of R134a that I needed to use on other vehicles. It's nice once in a while to just get up and go for a parts run.
11919635_qcp_51000486_pri_larg.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Mod/Upgrade/Fix: Upgrade
Accessories - Interior Seat Covers - Coverking Neosupreme
Accessories - Interior Center Console Cover - Coverking Neosupreme
Completed: 6/12/19
Purchase Link(s):
Associated threads:
In keeping with the theme of attempting to drown out the desert/beige color in my interior and introduce more black, I chose the Coverking Neosupreme seat covers in tan/black both front (Part #: CSC2A5NS7323) and back (Part #: CSC2A5NS7325) row. Price point wasn't bad, plus $10 promo code, plus I was getting cash back from Rakutan. I believe they were on sale for about $145 each, minus the $10 Promo, plus another couple bucks from Rakutan.

These are made to order and Autoanything.com facilitates the order directly to Coverking. I ordered in April, they were delivered in May, and I finally installed them about 3 weeks later. Overall very happy with these even though I ordered the wrong fitment for the back seat originally in which Auto Anything helped me sort out. Easy as heck to clean, keep my dogs from messing up the actual seats, and I know they are waterproof as my kids have tested that aspect. Fit's really good as well. I think I actually put them on a little too tight and probably need to adjust them. The black accents go perfectly with the 3D MAXpider.

Fronts:
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Backs:
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And finally, the center console cover as added flair. This was an eBay purchase which I don't do very often, but it's really hard to find manufacturers for these. It covers up what seems to be a bite mark on the back of the lid in which I failed tremendously to color match with a 3M vinyl kit.

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CarConsoleCover.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Mod/Upgrade/Fix: Upgrade
Accessories - WeatherTech Outfitting - Hood Protector & In-Channel Side Window Deflectors
Completed: 6/1/19
Purchase Link(s):
Associated threads:
I was on the fence between AVS and WeatherTech. I believe WeatherTech price limits with resellers, so I again decided to use AutoAnything. Just a little over 2 bills for the Hood Protector and the deflectors. I like the way the In-Channel looks and fit with the front windows so that's what I went with. I know AVS is half the price, but I have had problems with them binding on previous applications and didn't feel like dealing with that, so I went with the better feedback item. I had AVS all around with my 99 Ford and was happy with them, but the deflectors were external mount. The ones on my old Ford Escape were in Channel AVS style and popped alot when you rolled the windows up. I was also torn whether to get a nose guard or a pure deflector. I really like the look of the contoured design of the WeatherTech hood protector.

Take a gander:

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Mod/Upgrade/Fix: Fix
Front Wheel Hub Assembly replacement, Front rotors and pads and some clean up
Completed: 8/1/19
Purchase Link(s):
It all started with a squeak... https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads/squeaking-turned-to-grinding.358472/post-3805016
Not really sure why, but I ordered Moog replacements for the wheel hub assemblies rather than the recommended Timken Brand. Maybe it was the cool blue abs cord. Make sure to purchase 2. They don't always come as a set and it's recommended to replace both at the same time.
Annotation 2019-09-12 212010.png
I had to wait a few days for delivery and while I had things broken down up front, I thought I would take some time to do rotors, brakes and tidy up some things along with the hub assembly swap out.

Breakdown wasn't easy. Did require a BFH and some patience on the Hubs as well as the biggest Metric socket my impact could handle for the center nut.
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To be honest, this little thing caused me the most grief:
IMG_2957.jpg
More background -
Giving some things new shine along the way - -

Dust Shield and ABS mount - They were rusty so I wire wheeled them off, threw on a coat of Rust-Oleum self etching primer then used some VHT Epoxy Satin Black, couple coats.
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Front calipers - decided to try the Dupli-Color Caliper Paint kit in Red. First coat had me concerned about coverage, but after 2 or 3 more, started looking better. I messed these up, not just related to cure time, but this paint really needs heat on it to fully cure, which means driving and getting the calipers good and warm a few times over and not touching them with anything. I will sand them down a little later on and reapply and do it right. Lesson learned when I do the back calipers and they really intend you to paint them while still mounted and limit handling.
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Cleaning up the frame/chassis - Decided to go with Chassis Saver from Magnet Paints. Didn't want a lot of "gloss" so I went with the satin black. After a thorough cleaning and wire brushing off some of the frame rust, I used sparingly on the front part of the frame that is viewable below and the knuckle as a test. This product apparently works better with more rust but I'm pretty happy with the outcome even brushed on.
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Post Clean up, it was time to button up each side and complete the install. New rotors from Carquest (Platinum Painted Fronts) and Carquest Pads (Wearever Platinum Professional Ceramic). All purchased from Advance Auto as they own Carquest now.
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Final comparison with new gear installed and cleaned up a bit.
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Update 9/13 - Final view of more cleanup and refinish with the fender liner put back in. Does it look factory new? This is an 07 folks that has seen 12 midwest winters and the friendly brine solution that the city loves to put on the streets coupled with salting after snow/ice!
Before/After:
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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Mod/Upgrade/Fix: Upgrade
Exterior - Install OEM Style Fog lights and OEM Fog light control stalk (Metal Bumper 07 SE CC)
Completed: 8/6/19
Product/Purchase Link(s):
Associated threads:
OEM Part Numbers (Chrome Bumper Specific)--
Fog Light: Original 26154-EA500, Replacement Right 26150-EA825 and Left OEM Left 26155-EA825

This endeavor was fairly easy. First... I wanted the OEM set of fog light assemblies, and the stalk to control it, preferably OEM as well. Iinsurance grade replacements would also suffice as these are usually exceeding OEM quality. What I noticed in a few threads on the forum was that people were ordering off eBay and Amazon and they were typically missing the mount clips and screws and people had to go to Nissan to get the parts or worse, they didn't get the "shroud" that the light mounts to that is needed for their style of bumper. 6 month to a year feedback on many of them were that condensation was forming on the inside or the light just stopped working. Ain't nobody got time for that. I wanted the whole shabang with quality products. Second... PRICE!. This was all over the place as well whether new or used, OEM or aftermarket.

My final resting place for purchase was with Duncan Mills from nissanpartspuller.com due to the feedback in the Forums as well as Facebook groups related to Nissan. Quick response, quick shipping, and most of all, a complete kit at a reasonable price. I needed the setup for the chrome bumper specifically with fog light control on the stalk and this was clearly indicated on his site in order to determine the right order and fitment. This is a brand new, complete and functional kit and according to his site detail, "I supply collision-repair-grade CAPA & SAE certified new foglights, since most are damaged when vehicles enter the junkyard."

If you need help with fitment or stalk, don't hesitate to reach out to him at [email protected].

Shipment - It was much more neatly packed and protected than the first picture indicates, but rest assured he's not shy with the shipping wrap to ensure safe arrival and to minimize damage enroute. The OEM Assemblies include the mounting shrouds with the actual fog lights. These Shrouds are the key to your easy MOD down the road should you choose a LED application without swapping out the bulb. Duncan also has options to preinstall LED bulbs on his site should you choose for the right $$.
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From everything I have read, heard, and seen, if you don't have the OEM fog lights nor the control stalk, that all the 05+ Frontiers are prewired for them. Just in case you aren't sure, crawl under the truck and take a look. If it's not hanging down by the fog light opening, it's usually taped up to a wiring harness that's close. It may be an easier install if you remove the fender liners and front tires so you have a clear view and room to work. 05 to 08 I believe have a fender liner that doesn't fully cover through to the bumper, so It's easier to peer in there and even gain access to this location. I preferred to remove them even though mine don't fully extend down.

The end connector will look similar, if not the same as, what's in pic #1. Before you begin, you will need to remove the existing mock bezels (#2). Locate the tab that extends a little further out than the others and push that in (#3). This should release the bezel with ease. Save them or sell them or feel free to dremel out the back portion and use them as spares if needed. These tabs on the bezels break easily if you are not careful (I broke one on the new set). These 3 pics are my passenger side fog light (RH) in case that wasn't apparent.
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Now you are ready, after mock bezels are removed, to install the Fog Light Assemblies. Feed the fog light assembly through the back of the bumper. For passenger side, use RH, for drivers side use LH. This will be printed on the back of the light (#1). Install the bottom portion of the shroud (#2) with your mounting screw with a 10mm (#3) socket, ensuring you have the metal retaining clip (#4) in place, in the bottom mounting point in the bumper(#5). At this point I would only install finger tight so you can position the assembly later, then tighten down.
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Securing the top bracket is a little more tricky. I recommend a stubby phillips head to assist. The top metal bracket (#1) will be showing and the top bracket of the shroud should be directly on top of it. Position the assembly by reaching around the back of the bumper and then securing with your bolt through the bottom of the top metal bracket (#3). Secure finger tight as shown in (#4). You can now adjust the position of both the bottom and top bolts a little more solid. There will be a little bit of play and I'm not sure if this is by design, but I may add some lock washers down the road to make them more rigid.

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To complete the installation, install the bezel on the outside noticing the metal tabs built into the opening. There are 2 of them and positioning the bezel to lock into the two tabs with the 3 clips on the bezel can be trying to your patience. These tabs on the bezels are extremely easy to break (I broke one of them), but with a little patience these will pop right in securely.
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Secure bezel tabs 1 and 2 first. I'm illustrating the bezel from the back so you see that you have to flip it around to attach it. Tab 1 will rest on the bottom most metal tab, and bezel tab 2 will just clip on the edge of the metal. You may need to twist the bezel to get both of these to catch. Once you have bezel tabs 1 and 2 secure, Push where tab 3 should pop into the metal clip with a little bit of force with your thumb while holding the left side of the bezel in place. Don't force it too much, just enough to catch. If it's still not catching, use a little grease to allow it to clip a little easier.

Installation of the control stalk is plug-n-play after you have the correct parts removed from the steering column.
  • Pull your Battery cable off as to not disturb the airbag sensor.
  • Adjust the steering wheel all the way down (Green Ring)
  • Using a phillips head screwdriver, remove the 3 screws as indicated by the black arrows. These screws hold down the bezel on the top of the steering wheel along with some clips.
  • Using a trim removal tool to detach the top bezel, gently pry in the area indicated by the blue arrow until all of the clips have released.
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Once you have the stalk exposed, there are two retaining clips that hold it in (1). It's kind of hard to see in the first pic, but there is a white tab on top, and one on the bottom. You may need to pull the bottom plastic bezel piece out a little on the steering column to get to the bottom of it or tilt the steering wheel up to gain access. Swap the old with the new (2) while comparing the connector on the old vs the new, and click (3) the new stalk into place. If the connections don't match up, it could mean that you have the wrong year stalk. I believe there was a change in the pin connectors in a certain year, but not quite sure on the exacts.

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Reinstall your top steering bezel by aligning the clips and snapping together, then install the 3 screws you took out in the beginning. Reconnect your battery and test...

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Final fitment will have a gap with the metal bumper version. I have checked out Frontiers with factory installed fog lights with metal bumper and they too have this gap. You are able to adjust accordingly with the mount points as well as their are a couple adjusters on the back of each light. Not sure what they do quite yet, but...
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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Mod/Upgrade/Fix: Fix
Suspension - Replace Sway bar bushings
Completed: 8/11/19
Purchase Link(s):
Associated threads:
While I had most of the front end off the truck, but mainly the front skid plate, I noticed that these bushings were a little wonky and the sway bar was really close to it's mount points. Not far from metal on metal. I had run across a few forum posts about this being a bad design in that the split in the bushing was in a bad place as well as a potential service bulletin, but I don't trust Nissan's pic as it doesn't indicate where the split is. As I was going to remove them anyway to get to the front crossmember for a splash of Chassis Saver, I thought I would try these Beck/Arnley Bushings. The design looked much better and in the initial fit test, they seemed to be much better than the OEM that were still on there. Warning, these bolts suck. PITA in fact. Full impact wrench power with a 17mm even after soaking in PB Blaster for hours. I'm pretty sure I cross threaded at least 3 of them putting them back in and if they have to come back out they will need to be replaced. Best tool to use in the case of getting the bushings to compress a little so you can set the bolts is a big rubber mallet.
  1. Beck/Arnley: Part #101-7997 Stabilizer Bushing Set
  2. Bushing comparison
  3. Test fitment.
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Random Pics:
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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Mod/Upgrade/Fix: Upgrade
Diode Dynamics Upgrades to LED - partial interior/exterior
Completed: 8/6/19
Purchase Link(s): Diode Dynamics

Associated Threads:
Was waiting for a sale as I was really needing to get rid of the yellow light in my cabin and wanted better lighting in reverse. Heard these guys were in the STL and had a some pretty good feedback on their products. Was hesitant on the eBay and Amazon kits. Diode does have product on Amazon, but Frontier specific are better to order from their site. Pulled the trigger for the 4th of July sale, but the shipment sat around for a few weeks until I got to swapping out some bulbs. Very happy with the brightness and ease of install.

For the maps and dome, use your trim removal tool to assist. For anything with the rear taillight assemblies, regular old 10mm socket. For the third brake light, it's a little more involved.

What I swapped out:
  • Reverse lights - quantity 2
  • Interior dome and maps - quantity 3
  • Third Brake Light - quantity 1
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Dome/Maps comparison:
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Reverse light install:
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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Mod/Upgrade/Fix: Refurb-Mod
Exterior - Recovery hook addition/refurb, skid plate refinish.
Completed: 8/11/19
Purchase Link(s):
Associated Threads:
I knew I wanted a driver side recovery hook to balance it out on the front end, but this required a mod of the skid plate and the front air damn. Rolled up some little projects to accomplish this and refinished a few things along the way.
  1. Removed front skid plate - 8 total mounting bolts, 2 for the access panel
  2. Sanding and grinding
  3. Rust-Oleum Etching Primer to seal up access panel.
  4. Rust-Oleum Etching Primer to seal up the skid plate.
  5. Finished skid plate that I forgot to alter before finalizing the VHT Epoxy coating. Tape is where I set out the plan for the cutting wheel.
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Finesse with a Dremel:
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Making the recovery hooks fancy:
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Final stages of mock up and test fitment, re-refinished the skid plate where I cut, and then buttoned everything up.
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Discussion Starter #36
Mod/Upgrade/Fix: MOD
Exterior - Suspension/wheels/tires: MOD and customization of KMC XD798 Addicts
Completed: 8/19/19
Product/Purchase Link(s):
Associated threads:
As I was cruising the internet trying to determine what ceramic application was best for matte black wheels I ran across this gem: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/xd-addict-rivet-removal.272057/. As I continued to read through some of the feedback on these rims, turns out that folks have had these things get a faded look, chrome paint peeled, or they pop out or get punched out while they were off-roading. At $2+ per rivet, this is ridiculous. https://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/KMCZSD60.htm. 16 "fake bead lock" Rivets per wheel for the 17x9 size. I'd rather just pull them all out and call it good, but... what can we do to make these a little more custom looking?

I had a feeling these were plastic and was even anticipating painting them before they were even installed on the truck. Painting needed to occur before I sealed the rims up, so I was planning my next move. Then I ran across this video: XD Series Addict Rivet Replacement. Not the best videography as he admits, but you get the gist. I figured this project budget could be less than $100.

I commissioned my youngest son to help do some mock ups of what we were going to do to customize these rims a little to make them unique as I was inspired by this guys video. We first started with the rivets. Limited chrome please:)
  • Decided to use the same concept of the fender washers with aluminum billet
  • Had to be some shade of "red", but not too red for the washer.
  • Explored Black Chrome options rather than chrome hex bolts.
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Realizing that the center caps still had the XD Series badging, I started to look at what we could do with these as well. I know that we needed to make this surface as flat as we could to accommodate some sort of design or application.
  • Wanted something with red in it.
  • Son likes the punisher and skulls.
  • Entertained "Nissan" badging.
  • Ideal setup would be a Mandalorian skull in a reddish color to go along with the Red Mandalorian name.
  • Maybe just leave it black or de-badged?
  • If I can't find it on the interwebs, can I have it created?
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Go forward plan:
  • For the Rivets, we settled on 4 sets of 20 Fender Washer Kits with an anodized red colored aluminum washer. I knew the bolts would be too long and had to be cut, but really wanted to explore a black chrome bolt. Finding black chrome bolts online wasn't an easy task and when I finally found some at Tractor Supply, they were about $3 a piece and I would even still had to cut them.
  • For the center caps, I was going to try to figure out a way to flatten the surface and go with the Red Punisher Skull application in a good quality vinyl decal.
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Rivet adventure:
Sure enough, these things popped right out with minimal effort with vice grips. I narrowed down that my total depth couldn't be more than 1/2 inch and used a crude method to ensure the size was consistent for all the bolts. I had to cut 64 of these and wanted to get through these as fast as I could. Using some vice grips, I fashioned two nuts to screw down the hex bolt in and use a cutting wheel to knock it down to needed length. 64+ times! As this was complete, I started working with the cut off rivet bottom from the original plastic fakeys to use as the secure mount in the holes. This caused me grief. Not only did I not cut it down enough in the first place, but these suckers were hard to work with as the video example shows. As I screwed these down, some broke, some became severely misshapen. I attempted to drill them out a little to make it easier to affix and go from there.
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Rivet grief trial and error:
As I attempted to use the bottom portion of the original plastic rivets as a bushing for the holes in the wheel (which are not tapped with threads, just a hole), not only was it a PITA to screw the hex bolt washer combo into the cut off plastic, but as you tried to seat it into the hole into the wheel and adding JB Weld, it had a much wider diameter than the hole. Not only was it messy, it started to seat at an angle and looked all around shitty. The plastic is hard and not pliable and even using a good rubber mallet, I could not get them to line up at times. Did I really want to go through this 63 more times?? There had to be a better solution other than using this remnant. I explored a Knurled Press Insert option, but that would blow the budget out of the water.

Rivet solution:
What could I use as a press insert option that was pliable, where I could work with it and some JB Weld? Take a walk around Menards and get some inspiration. Settled on trying to use some polyethylene tubing. The kind that you hook up to your ice maker on your fridge. Pliable, but rigid enough to use as a press or bushing to hold these things in securely topped off with some good glue. Cut them to length, then put a slit down the side of each of them so I could just slide them on without the use of a drill.
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Center Cap alteration:
Had to make this a flat surface for the vinyl decals to properly affix. Noticed that there were heat welds holding the badging in on the backside of each center cap. I used my Dremel to grind them out from the backside and the plastic badging pulled right out with some small pliers. Plugged the holes with a little RTV Sealant and measured to ensure I ordered the right size vinyl decals.
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Everything set for installation now with the customized rivets and the center cap application with 65mm vinyl decals. Thoroughly cleaned the insides of the holes with rubbing alcohol and placed a small bit of weld glue on the end of each rivet and pounded them in with a rubber mallet as to not damage the wheel finish. Cleaned the center cap in the area of application real good with degreaser then a swipe of rubbing alcohol and the decals fit perfectly.
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Final outcome:

Applied a good coat of Jet Seal Matte and let sit overnight to allow the ceramic to bond good and put the wheels back on the next day. Pretty darn close to our mockups that we did early in the process and turned out looking really nice. Can't even tell they are XD wheels anymore and they don't have those silly fake rivets. I do see that some wheel manufacturers have come up with some customization options for their wheels, but should XD steal this idea?
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Nice.

I like the red recovery hook idea, not so much for the style but because it simply makes them easier to see. That might not seem important, but when you're flailing around under the truck in low light conditions and your flashlight is dead, you'll thank yourself!

I sprayed them yellow on one of my old cars for the same reason; better visibility.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Nice.

I like the red recovery hook idea, not so much for the style but because it simply makes them easier to see. That might not seem important, but when you're flailing around under the truck in low light conditions and your flashlight is dead, you'll thank yourself!

I sprayed them yellow on one of my old cars for the same reason; better visibility.
I prepped the hell out of these and it still seems that the paint didn't want to adhere to them. I banged them around a little and it scuffed and chipped them so I did a couple cover coats after I put them back on.
 

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I really like your build, and the best bang for your buck approach. I find myself scratching down some ideas after looking through this thread. I'll be the first to admit that I will be coping some of your ideas, first and foremost is the name Red Mandelorian, I have been a huge Deadpool fan. My daughter a few years ago got me a Tee-shirt that depicts him with the saying Maximum Effort. While trolling around following your link for decals I found a rear window decal with just that saying. I laughed and said it's settled then, my Frontier will be named Maximum Effort, besides it will go great with the sunshade I have that's Deadpool.
I'll be ever so watchful of what the Red Mandalorian does next!
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I really like your build, and the best bang for your buck approach. I find myself scratching down some ideas after looking through this thread. I'll be the first to admit that I will be coping some of your ideas, first and foremost is the name Red Mandelorian, I have been a huge Deadpool fan. My daughter a few years ago got me a Tee-shirt that depicts him with the saying Maximum Effort. While trolling around following your link for decals I found a rear window decal with just that saying. I laughed and said it's settled then, my Frontier will be named Maximum Effort, besides it will go great with the sunshade I have that's Deadpool.
I'll be ever so watchful of what the Red Mandalorian does next!
Glad to inspire. My kids are the driver of that name. Not so much a build these last few weeks as I’m in “fix” mode.
 
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