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I getting ready to install the Bilstein 5100 front struts and rear shocks. I am going to set the front struts for the 1-1/2" lift height but I want to add a small amount of lift to rear to keep some of the factory rake. I have looked at lift blocks, rear shackles and AAL's. Right now, AAL's are out due to excessive cost. I am concerned about lift blocks because of axle wrap. I was looking to add either 1" or 1-1/2" blocks in the rear. I know that some manufactures make 2" blocks that are angled to help keep the rear angle correct. Will I have any issues with 1" or 1-1/2" lift blocks and axle wrap? Do you all think that lift shackles are the safer way to go over lift blocks? I am open to opinions since there are so many on here with experience. Keep in mind that I really don't do any hard off road since I live just outside of Philadelphia. This is my every day driver but I would like for my truck to sit a little bit higher. I will be upgrading the trash Hankook tires that came on my truck but I am only going with 265/75/16.
 

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You usually get wheel hop when taking off in soft stuff when first taking off.
Whether this is caused by axle wrap,?
Since you don't off road,I would go with a set of small blocks.
 
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I would do 1" blocks in the rear, or an adjustable rear shackle set to 1", but those shackles set to 1" might require a bit of modification:
Please note:
When running the PRG Adjustable Lift Shackle at the 1" Lift Height on the 2005+ Frontier you may have to notch the cross bracing on the shackle itself to prevent it from binding on the chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Will I have to do any shimming with 1" or 1-1/2" rear blocks? I see that lift blocks don't come angle cut until you get to 2" lift. I would like to prevent any possible damage to the rear since this is my everyday truck.
 

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Will I have to do any shimming with 1" or 1-1/2" rear blocks? I see that lift blocks don't come angle cut until you get to 2" lift. I would like to prevent any possible damage to the rear since this is my everyday truck.
No shimming or tapered blocks. I asked Greg at PRG about this awhile ago. His response: "Unless you have figured a way to lower the transfer case, you don't want to run any shim at all. our blocks are flat, they way they should be for your Frontier. Other vendors will sell you shims because they can but you 100% don't want or need them."
 

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Awesome! Thanks for letting me know. I want and need this truck to last for a long time and I don't want to screw it up!
 

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Seems like the 1” lift block would be your easiest option. Not sure where you are seeing AAL’s being super expensive, you can usually buy a single AAL kit for about $89 bucks, plus cost of new Ubolts which are around $45. If you leave the overload spring in you’ll end up with about a 1”-1.5” of lift once the leaf settles. They are a PITA to install though.
 
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Blocks/u-bolts are the strongest, easiest and best way. Shackles may alter your pinion drive angle from where it currently is and add-a-leafs have more cons than pros.

Shims and angled blocks are all about getting the drive angles matching to avoid driveline vibrations. Drive angle science is pretty simple for a one-piece driveshaft and single/standard u-joints or cv-joints.

Your transmission/transfer case output shaft is fixed from the factory at a particular angle. You must make your rear differential pinion shaft angle match the output shaft angle perfectly (within 1 degree at worst) to avoid any kind of driveline vibration. So if your output shaft points downward at 2.5 degrees then your pinion shaft must point upwards at 2.5 degrees. This will put your u-joints/cv joints at exactly the same opposite angle from each other and cancel out any vibrations.

Factory drive angles are not always matching like they should be and they can get away with that cuz the u-joint angles angles are so low at factory ride height. Once you lift it you are increasing the u-joint angles making it much more important that drive angles match front and back.

So my advice would be to climb under your truck and take a current measurement of the angles of the 2 shafts mentioned above. If they currently match get a flat block to maintain the match. If they don't currently match and are off say 2 degrees from each other then get a 2 degree block or shim which will put them at identical angles.

Slightly more complicated for two-piece driveshafts and/or double cardan u-joints but still pretty easy. If you don't have a magnetic angle finder they are cheap to buy or there are several phone apps that do it sufficiently.
 
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I getting ready to install the Bilstein 5100 front struts and rear shocks. I am going to set the front struts for the 1-1/2" lift height but I want to add a small amount of lift to rear to keep some of the factory rake. I have looked at lift blocks, rear shackles and AAL's. Right now, AAL's are out due to excessive cost. I am concerned about lift blocks because of axle wrap. I was looking to add either 1" or 1-1/2" blocks in the rear. I know that some manufactures make 2" blocks that are angled to help keep the rear angle correct. Will I have any issues with 1" or 1-1/2" lift blocks and axle wrap? Do you all think that lift shackles are the safer way to go over lift blocks? I am open to opinions since there are so many on here with experience. Keep in mind that I really don't do any hard off road since I live just outside of Philadelphia. This is my every day driver but I would like for my truck to sit a little bit higher. I will be upgrading the trash Hankook tires that came on my truck but I am only going with 265/75/16.
AJB, have you considered bags? They are a bit more expensive ( $300.00 ) but will allow you to level at any angle rake you desire and have little effect on ride quality. I've had mine in for over a year and I love them, one of the best mods I ever did. I went with the Firestone RideRites and keep them at only about 16PSI to keep the ride smooth. Towed 600 miles last autumn, from Maine to Maryland and inflated to 60PSI, they leveled out the trailer and rode superbly. If you're going to use your truck for any truck stuff, I'd recommend these as a solid option.
BTW, I used to live in Coatesville and Downingtown. Where in PA are you at?
 
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Discussion Starter #10
AJB, have you considered bags? They are a bit more expensive ( $300.00 ) but will allow you to level at any angle rake you desire and have little effect on ride quality. I've had mine in for over a year and I love them, one of the best mods I ever did. I went with the Firestone RideRites and keep them at only about 16PSI to keep the ride smooth. Towed 600 miles last autumn, from Maine to Maryland and inflated to 60PSI, they leveled out the trailer and rode superbly. If you're going to use your truck for any truck stuff, I'd recommend these as a solid option.
BTW, I used to live in Caotesville and Downingtown. Where in PA are you at?
I live in the Bristol/Levittown area. I did look at the air bag option but it was just a little out of my price range. I ended up going with the Nisstec 2" AAL with longer U-bolts and a 2.5 degree shim. It seems that people with the CV joint style drive shaft haven't had any issues with vibration but people with the M226 axle and U-Joint driveshaft are the one who have had problems. Since I have the M226 axle and U-Joint driveshaft, I would play it safe and get the shim. I figured the AAL will raise the rear as well as help some with towing. I don't tow to much other than an aluminum boat, popup camper and a 7'x12' enclosed trailer a few times a year. Nothing I tow seems to weigh down the rear that much other than the enclosed trailer but that has my Kawasaki Brute Force 750 inside of it. Next improvement will be larger tires and a intake.
 
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It seems that people with the CV joint style drive shaft haven't had any issues with vibration but people with the M226 axle and U-Joint driveshaft are the one who have had problems.
Yeah universal joints (m226 axles) are very susceptible to vibrations due to improper drive angles...CV (C200 axles) not so much so.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
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Finally installed the front & rear Bilstein 5100's as well as the Nisstec 2" AAL with 2.5 degree shims! I wish I would have taken a similar picture before but I was to focused on getting this all done. I didn't set the fronts to their highest setting so I could avoid possible coil bucket contact. Since there were 5 notches for lifting the front, I used the notch below the highest setting. The rear AAL's and shims were easier than the front but I seriously don't want to have do any of this again. It was nice that everything came apart without struggle but the truck is new. I also installed factory Nissan camber bolts with LOTS of anti-seize! I took out for a test drive to check for vibrations and were no vibrations that I noticed. Had the alignment done the following day and I was told that they only had to adjust one camber bolt. Everything else was well within factory spec. I do think the truck rides smoother but it does feel a little more top heavy at certain speeds. There is a set of LT265/75R-16 Mud Claw tires that I have been interested in on Amazon. I hoping to pull the trigger on those within the next few weeks.
 
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