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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Trying to put some ideas together for a new bumper. Heres the rough design, I want to wrap it around the sides a bit more without looking to bulky, maybe flare the bottom/side a bit more. I may weld on a half circle to protect the exhaust even more, but that might look stupid. I dont plan on integrating a hitch in there, I have one already and I doubt its possible to remove the old bolts without damaging the threads. I will use the same mounting points on the frame the factory bumper uses, everythings pretty rusted under there I will most likely have to cut the original bolts off. The 4 bolts should be more than sufficient to take a beating off road.

I've got a few other projects on the go so I don't see myself firing up the welder for a few weeks. Until then, any suggestions or opinions are welcome





 

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Looks awesome man! I was actually just discussing a custom bumper with cut outs for the exhaust pipes with a friend not too long ago. What Dodge has done to their bumper looks great, except the chrome (AKA tin foil) part. This also seems like a great match to the Shrock front bumper. Follows the design perfectly. The sides cut down, and slanted as they are, would be great for offroading and for street use (downtown in the city, where parallel parking is tight).

Overall, this is a fantastic design and amazing artwork. It seems very unique and beneficial for on road as well as off. If I had not purchased a rear Shrock bumper already, I would be paying you to make one for me. LOL :)

A few questions though:
1. Have you considered the side edges of the plastic on the Frontier? The bumper would wrap around this, but does this fit into or in front of it?
2. How thick is this thing from the side?
 

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I really like it. If you're going to do side protection I'd use a softer angle from the tails. Otherwise it may be too thin at the ends to have any strength. It would also help carry the same line Vs going to a straight line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
id suggest once its finished take it off and put it on mine
heh, you did hook me up with some kick *** sliders, but im not that nice!! I'll Keep you in mind if I start building these.


1. Have you considered the side edges of the plastic on the Frontier? The bumper would wrap around this, but does this fit into or in front of it?
I see what you mean, but I have a body lift should be plenty of clearance to tuck it back behind the tailgate, and close that nasty gap thats been bugging me!

2. How thick is this thing from the side?
I want to keep it close to the dimensions of the original bumper, about 70" wide, 7" depth, 8" high is what I got now.

looks good. have you thought of adding some better back-up or accessory lights?
No, but I have now! I figure will need to cut some holes for the license plate lights as well...


Not sure what I can do about bedside protection, I like the idea of a 'mini slider' to protect the fender, but this thing is getting heavy already, might have to beef it up even more to make them functional. Unless I can make up another support on the side...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Side note.
What program do you use to do that? All my designs are done with pencil and paper :S
Autocad 2012. I drew a few sketches with Ye Olde pencil and paper too. But this will make my life easier when its time to cut up each piece of sheet metal, rather than calculate the dims out by hand with scale drawings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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very interesting project, why you don't punt some side protection? have you some measures about the bumper? how to ben steel??
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Some more progress... I've messed around with a few side rail/ slider attachments, but couldn't get it right, ill most likely end up with just a small wing like this.

The exhaust cut out is staying! (this is what motivated me to build the thing), I can cut that with tourch clean it up w/ grinder. I like the idea of the lights, but I'm not sure I can cut a hole that big without a serious drill press and to think how much the bit would cost... might take forever to clean up if i used the tourch.

My shop and welding skills are nothing to brag about, this will be pushing the limits but I'll give it a try. Im going to take my time with this one, so dont expect anything for a few weeks. (gotta love layoff season)

Top and front plates: 1/4"
Bottom and smaller plates 3/16"
Nasty piece of angle iron for the brackets
1/2" sub frame







 

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For the holes with the lights you would not use a big bit, nobody does. Use a holesaw with a pilot drill. I have even clamped stuff to my wood bench and did it with my 1/2" drill when I could fit the piece in my drill press.
 

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that is looking real good!


For the holes with the lights you would not use a big bit, nobody does. Use a holesaw with a pilot drill. I have even clamped stuff to my wood bench and did it with my 1/2" drill when I could fit the piece in my drill press.
make sure you start on an angle, use lube for the hole saw
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
For the holes with the lights you would not use a big bit, nobody does. Use a holesaw with a pilot drill. I have even clamped stuff to my wood bench and did it with my 1/2" drill when I could fit the piece in my drill press.
I know what a holesaw is... but didn't realize I can buy a carbide metal cutting one at the hardware store. I know the 4" concrete coring bit at work is a few hundred$ i just assumed more $ for steel. If i find a holesaw for the right price ill give it a try. My 8A press struggles with even 1/2" holes in plate steel, dont see a 2" + hold going any smoother
 

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You don't need a carbide one for steel you can use a regular bi-metal hole saw from Rigid or Milwaukee. Just make sure you keep the speed down, pressure hard enough to cut but not bind and use a good cutting fluid... not WD-40 or motor oil but a quality cutting fluid.
 

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You don't need a carbide one for steel you can use a regular bi-metal hole saw from Rigid or Milwaukee. Just make sure you keep the speed down, pressure hard enough to cut but not bind and use a good cutting fluid... not WD-40 or motor oil but a quality cutting fluid.
Yup, thats how I do it. Bi-metal, cutting fluid, low rpm and good pressure. I stopped buying milwaukee holesaws though because they recently changed their hardening process or something and they chip teeth way too easily in my notcher, I cant find rigid locally now be those are awesome. I have been using lenox from lowes and they have been great. a 2" will probably be about $15.

Here is a thread about milwaukee holesaws on another forum: http://www.dezertrangers.com/vb/fab-shop/141608.htm
 

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How much?
 
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