[doneill127]

The passenger side real axle seal is leaking on my 2010 with an M226 rear end. Truck has 85K miles. I talked with the dealer about NTB 10-008 but as expected, I was told it's out of warranty and I'd have to pay. They quoted $1500 to do both sides including new parking brake pads. Ouch. Pulling the axle and replacing the seals and bearings is probably beyond my ability. However I did see that I can buy a complete axle assembly with factory mounted bearing and seals for about $375 from Courtesynissan. Add another 20 bucks for the shoes and I can fix the leak on only the passenger side and replace the shoes on both sides for about $400. Replacing the axle assembly, without having to cut/press the bearing and seals seems to be pretty straight forward. The only thing I'd need to borrow is a slide hammer to pull the axle. The only two questions I've haven't found answered to, are do I have to pull the diff cover to remove any retaining clips, and if you use a puller to remove the axle, how does it go back in. Do the retaining bolts pull it in ? Wondering if I'm over simplifying the job to convince myself I can save $1100.

 

[Justwork]

I'm surprised they're going to repair it. As far as I know the dealer typically just replaces the axle.

 

[doneill127]

yes I know. That's what the tech bulletin says to do, replace the entire assembly. That's where I got the part number from. The claim is less costs for the parts which they said are around $350 which sounds about right. But obviously there's more labor they were estimating 6 - 8 hours.

 

[The other Sean]

Less labor and no worry about screwing up pressing the new bearing on properly. Same labor to get the axle assembly out and in your hand, now, instead of having to press bearings on and off, you just stab the new axle assembly in.

 

[Clint]

Many old school auto parts stores can remove and press the new parts on. All said it will be far less than a new axle.

Clint

 

[mtyler11]

There are no retaining clips. The backing plate holds the axle in. You will need a slide hammer to remove the bearing race from the axle tube and then hammer in the new outer race into the tube.

 

[doneill127]

Thanks for the input. Clint you're right if I really want to go cheap, I could buy the bearing and seal for around $30- $40 bucks and find a shop to remove and install. Figure they'd charge me around $100 bucks labor. Have to figure out how to get the axle to the shop with the truck on stands in the driveway. Probably a couple days down time and always the risk that the seal scored the axle. All said and done I think the easiest and safest way for me to go with with the new axle assembly. Found them at DealerDirect for $356. 40 years ago when I didn't have a pot to piss in I'd probably go that route. Used to live at the junk yards now called auto recycling scrounging tires, alternators and whatever else I needed to keep the old beasts running till the next paycheck

 

[Clint]

My drivers side just started leaking so I'm going to do both sides, I can afford new axles but not wasting the money. There is no reason you'd need a new one as if anything is scored it would be the opening of the axle tube.
A 12 ton press from harbor freight will do the job or a little less go to a machine shop.
Where are you from?

Clint

 

[BORNGEARHEAD]

I would replace the axle vent and clean all of the gearlube residue from the brakes and backing plates and see if it's still leaking. Usually, the vent gets plugged and builds pressure in the rear diff causing gearlube to be forced past the seals.

 

[Clint]

I would replace the axle vent and clean all of the gearlube residue from the brakes and backing plates and see if it's still leaking. Usually, the vent gets plugged and builds pressure in the rear diff causing gearlube to be forced past the seals.

That is a good thought, for me at 115,000 miles I'm thinking new bearings wouldn't hurt at this point.
What's your opinion on just swapping bearings and keeping current axles?

Clint

 

[BORNGEARHEAD]

That is a good thought, for me at 115,000 miles I'm thinking new bearings wouldn't hurt at this point.
What's your opinion on just swapping bearings and keeping current axles?

Clint

To replace the axle seal, you're gonna need a new axle seal, bearing, and spacer. I see no problem in just replacing these parts instead of the whole axle. Actual axle failure is pretty rare on Nissans(Fronty/X/Titan/Armada).

When I replace Nissan rear bearings, I don't press them in. I have a small electric cook pan/skillet that I have. I turn it on and let the bearing sit in the pan for a few minutes. Then I use my welding gloves, grab the bearing off the pan, and simply drop it over the top of the axle shaft. It will fall right in place like butter.

 

[doneill127]

Good idea. I'll clean the vent and axle and see if that works . That would be the easiest and cheapest fix of all. From northeast Ct.

 

[Smitty_81]

I have a question as well, not trying to hijack the thread but I think it's relavent to add.

On my oil changes (5k miles) I crack open the rear axle vent and tighten it back down.

I do always get the sucking sound of relieving some negative pressure.

My question is, does anyone else do this vs the axle vent mod? If so, have you had any issues with the seals?

Further, I believe it's bad to unscrew and retighten that particular vent every six months due to wear, thoughts? And I wonder if doing a sort of axle vent mod that's sealed but has a valve you can crack open occasionally would be viable instead of the typical non-pressurized mod using an extension hose and filter?

 

[Smitty_81]

Oh got a partial answer on my own to my last question while pondering. The factory axle vent is a check valve allowing high pressure to escape but not external pressure in. So any valve type setup would have to have that same capability at least.

Oh one last question that can probably find in the FSM but I'll ask here anyway so it gets archived, should you be able to see fluid down inside the vent hole when inspectin. After removing the vent? Or where would you be able to check that, if at all?

 

[Clint]

My feeling is once a seal fails it won't fully reseal without repkacement. If I'm going to disassemble and clean the surrounding area and brakes I'm just going to do the whole job. It cost less to do it right the first time.

Clint

 

[Smitty_81]

My feeling is once a seal fails it won't fully reseal without repkacement. If I'm going to disassemble and clean the surrounding area and brakes I'm just going to do the whole job. It cost less to do it right the first time.

Clint

Oh for sure, my question was meant to address how to approach maintenance or modification where the axle seals are still intact.

 

[BORNGEARHEAD]

I have a question as well, not trying to hijack the thread but I think it's relavent to add.

On my oil changes (5k miles) I crack open the rear axle vent and tighten it back down.

I do always get the sucking sound of relieving some negative pressure.

My question is, does anyone else do this vs the axle vent mod? If so, have you had any issues with the seals?

Further, I believe it's bad to unscrew and retighten that particular vent every six months due to wear, thoughts? And I wonder if doing a sort of axle vent mod that's sealed but has a valve you can crack open occasionally would be viable instead of the typical non-pressurized mod using an extension hose and filter?

If you can hear it relieve pressure when you unscrew it, you need to replace it. That's the pressure that cause the gearlube to push past the seals. If you do the popular axle vent mod with the fitting and hose, it is basically impossible to build pressure unless the hose got pinched.

 

[BORNGEARHEAD]

My feeling is once a seal fails it won't fully reseal without repkacement. If I'm going to disassemble and clean the surrounding area and brakes I'm just going to do the whole job. It cost less to do it right the first time.

Clint

You're only unbolting the 2 caliper bolts and taking off the rotor, then spraying it all out with brake cleaner. If someone's tight on loot and having to pay someone to replace the seals, I could see cleaning it and just seeing if it works.
If it were me, I would just buy a new complete rear diff assy from Nissan for $1550 and be done with it. That comes complete with new rear brakes and new e-brake cables.

 

[Clint]

You're only unbolting the 2 caliper bolts and taking off the rotor, then spraying it all out with brake cleaner. If someone's tight on loot and having to pay someone to replace the seals, I could see cleaning it and just seeing if it works.
If it were me, I would just buy a new complete rear diff assy from Nissan for $1550 and be done with it. That comes complete with new rear brakes and new e-brake cables.

It costs a wee bit more than $1550, I'd say its about $1000 more end to end.

Clint

 

[BORNGEARHEAD]

It costs a wee bit more than $1550, I'd say its about $1000 more end to end.

Clint

Not if it says Nissan on your shirt.