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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi, got a 2005 Frontier with approx 160K miles (odo stopped)
Drove well for about 3 months in Tampa FL, moved to GA end of June at which point i replaced the oil & filter.
Worked well until i left the country early November after which it was parked for 5 months.
Drove it to a few jobs when i returned and one day it just wouldnt change to higher gears,
Rev counter easily goes to 5000, went in the red once when i tested it but i tried to maintain 30mph.
Took it to a shop and was told the Vehicle Speed sensor was the problem but if other faults were found it'd be more than the quote i received.
Long and short is...I replaced the sensor myself and the problem still exists.
Now i've removed the valve body to test the solenoids and i'm getting a consistent 5.9 ohms across 6 of them and 29ohms on the Low Coast Brake.
From the chart i've been looking at it should be 3.3ohms & 23 on the 7th
With variations in the valve bodies, I'm not sure just what is really expected and i dont want to purchase unless i have confirmation.
All 7 gave an audible click when i applied the 12v test.
Does this appear to be my problem ?
Could it be the TCM/shift control mod ?
Could it be something in the casing gone bad due to the shift from extreme heat to extreme cold.
The oil looks fairly clean and there's not a lot of filings on the magnets.

I'm on the hunt for a used transmission because the rebuild quotes i get average $4200

2 pics attached.
Hope this helps you guys to lay down some knowledge on me.
 

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Somebody correct me if I am wrong but the tranny will not grab overdrive until a certain fluid temperature is reached I believe? Your truck still will not go into overdrive after several minutes of driving?
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Somebody correct me if I am wrong but the tranny will not grab overdrive until a certain fluid temperature is reached I believe? Your truck still will not go into overdrive after several minutes of driving?
Thanks for the quick response. I got up and must have accidentally hit a key without realizing so i didnt have all the info.
The first time it happened i was coming from a job. Did 75/80mph on i85 smoothly so it was real hot.
It was in the city with stop and go traffic and i noticed it after a red light.
 

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Now i've removed the valve body to test the solenoids and i'm getting a consistent 5.9 ohms across 6 of them and 29ohms on the Low Coast Brake.
From the chart i've been looking at it should be 3.3ohms & 23 on the 7th
Most digital multimeters don't have enough resolution to accurately measure small amounts of resistance - Often, the test leads themselves introduce enough extra resistance to throw off your measurements.

Also, when a solenoid fails, it usually either opens up completely (reads infinite resistance), or develops a dead short (reads zero resistance). The fact that you aren't seeing either of those things (and you're hearing them click when power is supplied) is encouraging.

Have you checked for any trouble codes? (The transmission doesn't send any codes to the ECU, but it may still be doing other things that'll set a code).
 
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Now i've removed the valve body to test the solenoids and i'm getting a consistent 5.9 ohms across 6 of them and 29ohms on the Low Coast Brake.
From the chart i've been looking at it should be 3.3ohms & 23 on the 7th
Most digital multimeters don't have enough resolution to accurately measure small amounts of resistance - Often, the test leads themselves introduce enough extra resistance to throw off your measurements.

Also, when a solenoid fails, it usually either opens up completely (reads infinite resistance), or develops a dead short (reads zero resistance). The fact that you aren't seeing either of those things (and you're hearing them click when power is supplied) is encouraging.

Have you checked for any trouble codes? (The transmission doesn't send any codes to the ECU, but it may still be doing other things that'll set a code).
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Most digital multimeters don't have enough resolution to accurately measure small amounts of resistance - Often, the test leads themselves introduce enough extra resistance to throw off your measurements.

Also, when a solenoid fails, it usually either opens up completely (reads infinite resistance), or develops a dead short (reads zero resistance). The fact that you aren't seeing either of those things (and you're hearing them click when power is supplied) is encouraging.

Have you checked for any trouble codes? (The transmission doesn't send any codes to the ECU, but it may still be doing other things that'll set a code).
I'm getting codes P1168 & P1051 A/F Sensor 1 Heater Bank 2
Ill be back on it soon
Thank you
 

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Hi, got a 2005 Frontier with approx 160K miles (odo stopped)
Drove well for about 3 months in Tampa FL, moved to GA end of June at which point i replaced the oil & filter.
Worked well until i left the country early November after which it was parked for 5 months.
Drove it to a few jobs when i returned and one day it just wouldnt change to higher gears,
Rev counter easily goes to 5000, went in the red once when i tested it but i tried to maintain 30mph.
Took it to a shop and was told the Vehicle Speed sensor was the problem but if other faults were found it'd be more than the quote i received.
Long and short is...I replaced the sensor myself and the problem still exists.
Now i've removed the valve body to test the solenoids and i'm getting a consistent 5.9 ohms across 6 of them and 29ohms on the Low Coast Brake.
From the chart i've been looking at it should be 3.3ohms & 23 on the 7th
With variations in the valve bodies, I'm not sure just what is really expected and i dont want to purchase unless i have confirmation.
All 7 gave an audible click when i applied the 12v test.
Does this appear to be my problem ?
Could it be the TCM/shift control mod ?
Could it be something in the casing gone bad due to the shift from extreme heat to extreme cold.
The oil looks fairly clean and there's not a lot of filings on the magnets.

I'm on the hunt for a used transmission because the rebuild quotes i get average $4200

2 pics attached.
Hope this helps you guys to lay down some knowledge on me.
My 2000 crew cab had similar problem and it was the TPS throttle position sensor, was cheap and easy DIY on my firstGen but idk about yours. And before buy a new transmission try changing fluid AND filters
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My 2000 crew cab had similar problem and it was the TPS throttle position sensor, was cheap and easy DIY on my firstGen but idk about yours. And before buy a new transmission try changing fluid AND filters
I reinstalled the valve body after testing the solenoids (all good) and focused on that next.
Bought a new throttle body, installed and tested today after doing the relearning procedure.
Still no OD.
Back on the hunt.
Appreciate the suggestion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi guys !
Dont want to appear ungrateful because i truly am grateful, for all the troubleshooting help and suggestions i got on here re my '05.
I've been off for a while due to differing circumstances but the problem was solved when i got a tranny pulled from an Xterra.
I installed it and was done.Repolaced the rear main seal and used genuine nissan transmission oil in the process.
Saved about $2500 doing it myself 😄
Thanks again !
 

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Tampa...glad to hear you were able to get your transmission issues resolved by swapping it out for a used Xterra transmission...aka..RE5R05A...

Just out of curiosity, what did you end up doing with the old "defective" Frontier transmission?? Did you turn it in for the exchange? Or do you still have it? You ever do a "post-mortum" on the transmission to figure out what the problem was?? Not sure if you were aware, but Nissan had issues with the circuit board on the RE5R05A transmission control modules.....see below Youtube videos for additional...

 
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