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No, no insult. In a thread below this one a poster put in stock oem tweeters. Now that I know I have wiring and a mounting location I'd like to add some middle quality tweeters but not Oem, Would be great if you knew of some better quality tweeters and midrange door speakers that would work well with the oem radio and not negatively impact the system as a whole. Lol......Disregard all above, I'm going to just go ahead and start off with a new radio unit double din style if I can find one that will function with my bluetooth as i listen to my phone playlist more than anything else. It seems from reading hours of material the biggest hurdle is trying to get all the oem functions to work with the new radio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
No, no insult. In a thread below this one a poster put in stock oem tweeters. Now that I know I have wiring and a mounting location I'd like to add some middle quality tweeters but not Oem, Would be great if you knew of some better quality tweeters and midrange door speakers that would work well with the oem radio and not negatively impact the system as a whole. Lol......Disregard all above, I'm going to just go ahead and start off with a new radio unit double din style if I can find one that will function with my bluetooth as i listen to my phone playlist more than anything else. It seems from reading hours of material the biggest hurdle is trying to get all the oem functions to work with the new radio.
I replied in that other thread regarding the OEM upgrade, I was about to reply to your questions here but you just changed your post LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Excellent & concise.
I am finding that writing this guide is a delicate balance between getting too technical in my explanation vs. trying to word it in too easy terms for those who might not be familiar with the topic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)

PART 3: You Don’t Drive From the Back Seat
a.k.a. Sound stage, and what rear speakers are really for.


Examine the 3 photos below, then ask yourself this: When it comes to audio, what do a Nightwish concert, an orchestra performance at the Sydney Opera House, and a play on Broadway have in common?




Answer: They all have an elevated stage (soundstage), and it’s centered in front of you.

To be fair, many people never put thought into this concept. Most people who just enjoy music will generally prefer the music to surround them from all directions – like if you were in a dance club, with speakers everywhere blasting music and engulfing your auditory senses in this “omnidirectional” manner. Turn that volume up and let’s party! If this is the type of person you are where you just want to be bombarded with sound, there’s nothing wrong with that – that’s a personal preference.

But if you are looking for improved audio performance, then you need to understand the point of creating a soundstage. Yes – we’re not talking about sitting in a perfectly square room with perfect speaker placement and a central seating area – we’re talking about a small enclosed cabin of a vehicle where most of the speakers are within arm’s reach and your sitting offset to the front and left. But just because we have more obstacles to overcome, it doesn’t mean you can’t get a pretty good soundstage in a vehicle, it just takes more work. I’ve experienced listening to music in more than a few IASCA and MECA competition-level car audio vehicles over the years where if I closed my eyes I could have sworn I was in the front row of a live concert – granted, this level of car audio is way beyond what I want to talk about here (and beyond what most people will ever even get a chance to experience themselves), but it was incredible.

So back to soundstage; in the ideal scenario, if you play quality music and close your eyes, it will sound like you’re literally in the center front row of a live concert (just like I mentioned above). The singer’s voices will seem like they are coming from in front of you, all of the instruments will sound like they are being played live (like if they were spread out on a stage), and it will have so much clarity that it will feel like each member of the band is right there on the hood of your truck! Note that I emphasized “front” – that’s because this level of audio clarity can be achieved without rear speakers.

Focus Forward
When most people start window shopping for new speakers for their Frontier, they tend to factor in the cost of rear speakers as part of their budget – they figure if they are upgrading their audio, they have to replace all of the speakers in the vehicle. But whenever someone asks me about this, I always recommend to bias the budget towards the front speakers if they’re looking specifically for sound quality. In other words, instead of buying 4-6 decent speakers for all 4 doors (and the dash location) of the Frontier, I tell people to consider allocating most (if not all) of the main speaker budget on a good set of 6.5” or 6×9” component speakers instead for the front:

This way you’re spending more money on improving the equipment that is in front of you – which not-so-coincidentally is the same place where your soundstage is supposed to be! (Fact: many of the best competition level SQ vehicle audio systems do NOT have any rear main speakers at all!)

Some of you reading this might say “That doesn’t make sense, how come good home theater audio systems have rear speakers then?” and the explanation is simple: home theater audio is designed around the fact that most cinema audio these days is 5.1 – or 5-channels of audio (front left, center, front right, rear left surround, rear right surround) + 1 channel for bass. That’s why you need 5 speakers and a subwoofer in your living room to enjoy cinema audio as it was meant to be. Contrary to that, music audio is 99% stereo – stereo as in 2-channels. Those two channels just happen to be front left + front right – not coincidentally, humans only have 2 ears, and they are… front left + front right.

Avoid Multiple Full Range Speakers Up Front
Since we’re discussing audio in the Frontier, there’s one more topic I’d like to touch on – many Frontier owners see the extra dash speaker location and assume that they will get improved sound quality if they installed a full-range speaker as they would have done in the doors AND install a full-range speaker in the dash (as opposed to just a tweeter form a component system). However, the problem here is that this “more is better’ line of thinking is detrimental to an improved soundstage and/or a waste of money. Here are two bad reasons why:

  • Bad Reason #1: Detrimental to Proper Soundstage – As explained earlier, soundstage is about directionality. If you have a full range speaker in the dash and a full-range speaker in the door both playing the same midrange voices in your music, then your ears won’t be able to localize where the voices are coming from. It will not sound like a live band on a stage in front of you. It will sound omnidirectional, and the only way to try to ease the soundstage back to in front of you is to limit the lower frequencies the dash speakers play and limit the higher frequencies the door speakers play… which brings me to reason #2:
  • Bad Reason #2: Wasting Money – If you paid for multiple-driver full-range speakers for both the front doors and dash locations, but then use crossovers or filters to limit their frequency output to achieve some sort of pseudo “component” system, then what’s the point of buying full-range? You basically just paid for 2 full-range speakers and then you’re only using half of each.
What Rear Speakers Are Really For
So – if sound quality means focusing on improving the soundstage up front, why do all vehicles have rear speakers? There are only two reasons: space, and back seat passengers. If you go way back to when car audio was still in its infancy, you’d see vehicles with these large rear speaker enclosures (with 2, 3, or 4 drivers in each) bolted to the package shelf area under the rear window, or the sidewalls of a hatchback, or the back wall of a pickup truck:

This method was super popular back then simply because there was more room back there to install more speakers. As far as the second reason, car manufacturers started putting dedicated rear speakers (in the rear doors of a 4-door or the rear side panel of a 2-door) so that they can sell it as an added feature (“look! Music for everyone in the vehicle!”) on the equipment list.

That doesn’t mean though that you can’t let your rear passengers enjoy some music too. When it’s just for entertainment (and not focusing on ultimate sound quality) a decent set of rear speakers can make your passengers rock out like you are up front. I upgraded my rear speakers for the benefit of my rear-seat passengers, but the secret to still retaining my soundstage and sound quality when I’m driving is that I disable the rear speakers when I’m driving solo or with 1 passenger up front. I only activate them when people are riding in the back.

Take it Personal
In the end, just think about your quest to improve your Frontier’s audio like this: who are you buying these aftermarket speakers for? You. Who is doing this work to hear the improved sound? You. Where do you always sit in the truck? You sit up front. Except for certain specific (rare) circumstances, your method of choosing aftermarket speakers should be focused around making the sound as good as possible to the person in the driver’s seat. This means selecting speakers that enable the possibility to have a good soundstage and to do that you have to set your sights initially on front speaker quality, as opposed to full vehicle speaker quantity.

In Part 4 of this series, regardless of if you listen to EDM, Hip-Hop, Top-40, Rock, Classical, or even Country, you will need more than just door speakers. Hint: Even guitars play bass.

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If you have any questions or comments about this guide, please feel free to post them in this thread. I will try to answer all of the questions that I can to help you out.

For links to the rest of the guide, see the table of contents by clicking here.
(The full guide can also be read on project:KEIRA.)
 

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This thread is really insightful. I find it amusing that with the advent of digital music storage devices I often hear more and more songs adding in a track that sounds like record player scratch from the good ol' days. Not sure why a lot of audiophiles prefer an overpriced turntable to digital formats, but I'm the farthest from an expert. Lol. I'm hoping you can do a quick tutorial on ohm preference in one of your write-ups. Keep up the great work!
 

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Just read part 3 with some tea and coffee cake... Bravo again, @raine for the excellent write up
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
This thread is really insightful. I find it amusing that with the advent of digital music storage devices I often hear more and more songs adding in a track that sounds like record player scratch from the good ol' days. Not sure why a lot of audiophiles prefer an overpriced turntable to digital formats, but I'm the farthest from an expert. Lol. I'm hoping you can do a quick tutorial on ohm preference in one of your write-ups. Keep up the great work!
From what my brother tells me (he's super home audiophile) they know vinyl isn't as "clean sounding" as digital due to all the cracks and pops you get from a needle riding in a groove... but that's part of what they want to hear because being able to hear all these tiny "errors" shows how good their equipment is (since their mega-priced equipment is sensitive enough to pick up those things and play them.) As for a "quick tutorial on ohm preference" it wasn't part of the plan, but since you're asking for my opinion I can do that in oh... 3 sentences:

1. I prefer to stick to 4-ohm. 4-ohm is the general standard for mobile audio and compatible across the board. :cool:
2. If you're using aftermarket parts at 2-ohm to get the output you want, IMO you bought the wrong parts. :unsure:
3. However one exception: the only place I'd do 2-ohm is subwoofers, because we all love bass :giggle:
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·

PART 4: Dogs Underwater
a.k.a. Why a Subwoofer is a Good Thing

Here’s a common phrase/excuse/comment/misnomer I hear a lot when recommending the addition of a subwoofer:

“Yeah, I don’t need a subwoofer, I don’t listen to rap music and I don’t need to shake the windows of my neighbors and people driving beside me.”
Why do a lot of people assume that having a subwoofer means ten 12” gigantic speakers powered by 4000 watts and you have to only listen to Rap or Hip-Hop? I have no idea, but they are probably basing their assumptions on stereotypes - not realizing that a subwoofer is an important ingredient in any good audio system.

Moving Air
A subwoofer is just a speaker that is designed to play low-frequency bass. It does this by manipulating air pressure to create low-frequency sound waves within the listening area (your truck). The physical feeling of a bass tone is unmistakable because you will more likely feel bass as opposed to just hearing it. That rumble or kick you feel is air pressure around you changing with each sound wave generated by the movement of the subwoofer’s cone. That’s why subwoofers are generally 8” in diameter or larger – more surface area means more air can be moved. That's pretty much it! There's no magic in how a subwoofer works – so that said, let’s focus more on the “why” as opposed to the “how.”

Low Frequency is Slow Frequency
As mentioned earlier in this guide, all speaker types have a specific purpose – and they are separated by what frequencies they are meant to play. To keep it simple, let’s divide the frequency range of music into three distinct sections: High Frequencies, Midrange, and Sub-Bass. In the image below I included a basic but very capable 3-way audio system consisting of 3 different speakers, placed where they are each designed to produce sound in the audio spectrum:

The tweeters are responsible for the high-frequency sounds, the midrange takes care of the voices and the bulk of the music in the middle and the subwoofer handles the low-frequency bass. For an easy real-world example that displays this behavior, think of your Frontier engine: at low RPM you are moving slow and the engine is making a low growl, but at high RPM you’re moving fast and the engine noise has a higher pitch, right? That’s basically how sound works – just look at it as speed differences in how the speaker moves: the faster the speaker moves the higher the frequencies it can play, and vice versa.

Why Your Door Speakers Can’t Do It
So what’s keeping your mid-range door speakers from producing the low frequencies that a subwoofer can produce? Answer: because of everything else your midrange speakers are in charge of producing. Remember how I said that frequency is the speed that a speaker moves to produce sound? To cover the wide range of frequencies in music, you need different drivers to accurately produce good sound, because a speaker is simply a physical mechanism that is moving at a certain speed.

Try this experiment: stretch your arms out in front of you, and clap your hands together loudly, like once every second. Your hands represent low frequencies (like a subwoofer), and the farther you swing your arms back, the louder you can produce sound, right? Now let’s make your fingertips represent high frequencies (like a tweeter). Hold your palms together and just tap just your left and right fingertips about 5 times a second (higher frequency). No problem, right?

Okay – now try doing both at the same time… Yep.

A single speaker driver cannot physically move in multiple frequencies at the same time. Music has multiple frequencies layered over each other. To compound the problem, if you ask a speaker to produce too wide of a range of frequencies, it will affect sound quality and reduce the performance of that specific speaker. Now let’s go back to your mid-range door speakers. Aside from the obvious fact that they are called “mid-range” for a reason, your midrange speakers are the ones that are primarily in charge of producing the bulk of the sound you hear. Mid-range speakers cover most of the audio spectrum except for (you knew this was coming) the highest frequencies and the lowest frequencies – which are what tweeters and subwoofers are for, respectively.

You already learned that component speakers separate the higher frequencies by way of a separate tweeter – the tweeter can produce all of the high frequencies so that the mid-range (which is then limited by a crossover to not receive the high frequencies) doesn’t have to. That said, the subwoofer comes into play for the same reason but on the low-end side of the audio spectrum. With the addition of a subwoofer, you can delegate most of the low frequencies to the subwoofer instead of trying to get your midrange to do it - because it can’t if it’s responsible for crisp and clear midrange.

Subwoofer in the Rear Doors = Not Really
What about running a pair of 6.5” subwoofers in the rear doors, so that you don’t have to add a subwoofer enclosure under the seat? Nice idea, but not worth the trouble. Note that I said “subwoofer enclosure” – remember, a subwoofer needs to move air to create bass waves, and it does this by being mounted in an enclosure that separates the air at the back of the subwoofer cone (which is inside the enclosure) with the air at the front of the cone (your vehicle cabin). This separation is what makes a subwoofer work. To illustrate this, take a look below:

With the above in mind, now take look at what the rear door of our Nissan Frontier trucks looks like when you remove the interior door panel:

See the problem? There’s no separation between the front and rear sound waves if you were to mount a subwoofer in the rear door. You can try to close all these door panel holes, but what about the large, wide hole at the top where the window slides in and out? You can try to build a small enclosure behind the rear speaker area… but aside from the fact that it would be a pain-in-the-you-know-what to build a box inside a door panel, once you’re done you’ll notice that now you have this tiny enclosure that just gets in the way of the window when you roll it down.

Smooth Subwoofer Integration
A simple, low powered aftermarket subwoofer system will add low frequencies to fill out the music you’re listening to. Remember, a subwoofer integrated for sound quality does not have to be so loud that it overpowers the main sounds that are being played! That means it doesn't need to take up much room either, and luckily many compact, powered "all-in-one" subwoofer enclosures are practically plug-and-play:

Any of the small amplified subwoofer systems shown above can do the job of blending in lower bass tones that you never knew were there until you added the subwoofer!

The best integration of subwoofers are the ones that do not call attention to themselves, but they fill in the lower frequencies that your midrange speakers were never producing in the first place. And again – this has nothing to do with Hip-Hop or Rap music. I’m talking about things like bass guitars, or a trombone, or the low octave voice of a Blues or Jazz singer. Yes, you can hear some of these sounds coming out of your midrange, but they won’t have any impact until you hear it in an audio system that integrates a subwoofer.

The OEM Premium Rockford Fosgate Subwoofer (if equipped)
Speaking of integration, although most 2nd-gen Nissan Frontiers do not have more than 6 speakers from the factory, certain model trims were equipped with the optional “Premium Rockford Fosgate Audio System” upgrade. This 10-speaker system includes a subwoofer enclosure under the left-rear passenger seat:

This molded enclosure houses a pair of 6” subwoofers powered by an external amplifier, and for what it’s worth, it actually does a decent job with producing bass. If cost and space are a concern, those with the RF system have a possible bang-for-the-buck option with regards to bass: they could upgrade the rest of the audio system, but integrate the OEM Rockford Fosgate subwoofer into the plan to handle the bass frequencies.

The Cars (Trucks) That Go Boom
Last but not least, a few words for those of us who are torn between wanting to increase sound quality with a subwoofer but also want the ability to bump on the weekend cruise. Hey – if you want big subwoofers, go for it! There's nothing wrong with wanting some bass kick because don't forget – you can always turn the subwoofer level down when it comes to playing music specifically for sound quality.



For example, I have two 10” JL Audio subwoofers in my Frontier powered by over 500-Watts. Most of the time when I listen to Metal or EDM I have my bass level adjustment knob in the 40-60% range. If I want to get the attention of the people next to me at the stoplight, I play some Rap and turn the bass knob up to around 80%. But if I’m doing a sound quality demo, my bass knob gets turned all the way down to… oh, about 10%. When it comes to playing my system with sound quality in mind, I only use a small fraction of available system power for my subs, which coincidentally is related to the next part of this guide.

In Part 5 of this series, I’ll explain why using a separate, higher power amplifier is much better than the one that is built into your head unit. HINT: Stronger muscles do less work.

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If you have any questions or comments about this guide, please feel free to post them in this thread. I will try to answer all of the questions that I can to help you out.

For links to the rest of the guide, see the table of contents by clicking here.
(The full guide can also be read on project:KEIRA.)
 

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My rule of thumb with subwoofers is that you can more effectively turn down the bass if you have too much than you can turn it up if you don’t have enough. I generally go with slightly more than I think I need and let the equipment work more within its comfort zone rather than under sizing it and possibly pushing it to the point of distortion or clipping when I want more bass. Two 10”s in our trucks is more than most people will need, but when turned down to blend with the music they can sound amazing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)

PART 5: Less is More
a.k.a.
How an External Amplifier Can Improve Sound Quality.

Let's say you took the leap and upgraded your head unit from OEM to aftermarket. You even swapped out the stock OEM speakers for some nice aftermarket speakers. Let's even say that you added a decently powered subwoofer, so after all your hard work the result was that you had yourself an all-new audio system, and in your opinion, it sounds great! If your ears and your wallet are completely satisfied with the sound, you know what? You don’t have to read this section at all. You’re done with your audio upgrade. Go enjoy your nice, new audio system – that’s why you upgraded in the first place, right?

I Want More, Maybe
But… what if you’re not completely 100% happy yet? What if the already improved sound quality (comparing OEM to aftermarket) has a possibility of improving more? Or what if you want to play it louder than it can go? Or say you installed some nice aftermarket speakers, but you are wondering if your head unit’s built-in power is enough? Your gut instinct might be leading you to add an aftermarket amplifier into your system.

A basic aftermarket amplifier sits in between your head unit and your speakers, taking whatever sound your head unit is sending out, increasing the output, then sending that output to your speakers so you can hear louder, clearer sound. Midrange amplifiers will cost a little more but will also have more power, and most likely will have some sort of built-in crossover function and/or equalizers to help you fine-tune your music. High-end amplifiers will bump up the power to extreme levels, plus add in advanced features such as Digital Signal Processing (DSP) and fancy tech, at (of course) a much higher cost. But regardless of the power output, features, or price, all aftermarket amplifiers fundamentally do one simple job: they amplify the signal.

Yes - your stock OEM head unit had a built-in amplifier. Your aftermarket head unit also has a built-in amplifier. So why bother adding a separate external amplifier on top of that? The answer is three-fold: to eliminate any possible distortion, to add more headroom, and to provide more power – all of which contribute to louder, clearer, higher quality sound.

Itchy and Scratchy
Let’s start with distortion. “Distortion” is when the audio isn’t clean – it can sound muffled, or crackly, or raspy. If you’ve ever turned up the volume on any basic stereo system to the point where the sound stopped getting louder and it started sounding really, really bad – that’s distortion. Without getting super technical, just know that there can be many factors that can cause distortion in a car audio system – but the most common two are between:

A. Inferior/Incorrect Speakers: Adding an amplifier that puts out power more than a speaker is rated to handle (such as adding an aftermarket amp to OEM speakers) OR trying to make a speaker play sounds it wasn’t meant to play – like trying to make a midrange play bass frequencies; or​
B. Weak Amplification: Trying to use a low power amplifier with speakers rated to use more power than the amplifier can provide.​

Since our discussion here began with assuming you already upgraded your OEM speakers to some nice, higher power-capable aftermarket units, we’ll focus on amplification – because it’s a very important portion of creating crisp, clear, clean sound at all volume levels. There is some confusion over the statement that “underpowering your speakers is bad” because most people assume that it means you’ll damage your aftermarket speakers if you don’t give them enough power. But the “damage” part is actually on the amplifier side, not the speaker side. Let’s say you have a 25-watt amplifier connected to a 125-watt rated speaker, the 25-watts is well below what the speaker is designed to handle, right? So there’s no way you’ll hurt your speakers, right? This is correct – but what about the amplifier? The moment the speaker needs more than 25-watts of power to play certain sounds, the amp will struggle because it can’t do it. So instead of that loud clean sound, you’ll get a distorted sound.

As an analogy, let’s say you’re the only person in the front row at a stage, and a band is on stage playing music. They can play at a certain volume level on their own (the blue “cloud” shown below) – with just standard musical instruments and a singer with no microphone - and to you, it will sound clean, clear, crisp, and audible (see below, left side:

Now, what if there were thousands of spectators, all in a packed stadium (above, right side). That same band will now have to play their instruments at a much louder volume and the singer will have to sing at a much higher volume, to the point that they are no longer capable of being loud enough on their own to project their music and vocals all the way to every audience member. The singer will be screaming, and sound horrible. The instruments will sound forced and on the brink of breaking because the band members are trying to play them hard enough to make a sound loud enough to reach everywhere. The song as a whole is no longer good, it's distorted because they don't have proper amplification (a microphone and amplified speakers). So to sum up distortion: when you try to make a car audio component do more than it's capable of doing on its own, your music will end up sounding really bad and make you wonder why your nice new aftermarket speakers sound like crap.

I Work Out
Now let’s talk about “headroom”. Headroom is basically when you have more amplification power than you normally need. For example, Let’s say you have a 50-watt speaker that needs amplification. You can power it with a 50-watt amplifier and it will work. You can also power it with a 150-watt amplifier, and it will also work. So why bother with going higher than 50-watts if the speaker itself is only rated for 50-watts? Isn’t that just wasting money? Not exactly. If anything, it’s making sure that your audio system can play sound comfortably, without trying too hard, without using excess voltage, and without affecting the quality of the audio. Take a look at the diagram below: we have two different amplifiers, one is a 50-watt amplifier and one is a 150-watt amplifier, and both are powering the same speaker rated at 50-watts:

Do you see the difference? The smaller R2-200x2 might be capable of providing the 50-watts the speaker can handle, but the amp will have to work at 100% just to do it. That means it will always be at maximum output, and if the speaker wants to play a tone (like say, a hard-hitting bass drum) that requires bursts over 50-watts, guess what? The R2-200x2 will have a hard time providing it. It’s like a person at the gym who can only lift 50 pounds – give them a 50-pound weight and that’s all they can do, and they will have to use 100% effort each time.

On the other hand, look at the larger R2-300x4. It is only working at about 33% to provide the 50-watts of power to the 50-watt speaker. If the speaker gets a bass tone that needs say, 75-watts the R2-300x4 has enough “headroom” to provide that quick burst of 75-watts without breaking a sweat. It’s like a person at the gym who can lift 150 pounds – give them a 50-pound weight and they only have to use 33% effort to lift it – and they can easily lift more weight if needed.

So in the above example of headroom – ideally you’d want to go with the larger amplifier. The larger amplifier is actually working less (thus the title of this article), yet can give you more when you need it. The larger amp can play your music with less chance of distortion, and at higher levels much easier than the smaller amplifier that just barely meets the speaker’s power demands.

Really Loud Noises
Another detail to consider is this: you’re in a vehicle that moves when you drive it. Sure, your audio can sound pretty sweet when you’re testing it out in the driveway right after you installed your gear – but when you get into the real world, things change. Driving along on the streets will introduce road noise, engine noise, and wind noise. All of this noise gets amplified (pun intended) the faster you go, like on a freeway or a highway:


When you go with an amplifier that has more power than your speakers require, you have that extra power to dial up the volume even more to counteract all that added external noise, so you can still listen to nice music as you travel. This is why adding an aftermarket amplifier to your system is a good idea to consider – and to sum up this topic in one sentence: It’s better to overpower rather than underpower your aftermarket speakers.

In Part 6 of this series, I’ll explain why you might want to add weight to your truck to get better sound. What? HINT: Think layers, like a cake.

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If you have any questions or comments about this guide, please feel free to post them in this thread. I will try to answer all of the questions that I can to help you out.

For links to the rest of the guide, see the table of contents by clicking here.
(The full guide can also be read on project:KEIRA.)
 

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Raine, I purchased a 2020 Nissan Frontier three days ago and this radio needs to go, I need to have Apple CarPlay, I have had it in my last two vehicles and the salesman talked like it had a ”type“of Apple CarPlay ! But I soon found out that this radio sucks, I installed a Boss audio Apple CarPlay radio, the installation went well, but I was unable to find an adapter for the steering wheel controls and rear camera, Where can I purchase these adapters or when will they be available ? Thanks for your help, Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Raine, I purchased a 2020 Nissan Frontier three days ago and this radio needs to go, I need to have Apple CarPlay, I have had it in my last two vehicles and the salesman talked like it had a ”type“of Apple CarPlay ! But I soon found out that this radio sucks, I installed a Boss audio Apple CarPlay radio, the installation went well, but I was unable to find an adapter for the steering wheel controls and rear camera, Where can I purchase these adapters or when will they be available ? Thanks for your help, Dave
I'm going to guess you went straight here and didn't even bother reading the first post?
 

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I'm going to guess you went straight here and didn't even bother reading the first post?
Raine,
No, I read the entire post, it seems like the 2020 Frontier has a different connector for the steering wheel controls and the camera, do you know of a company that makes an adapter for a 2020 Frontier?
 

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Raine,
No, I read the entire post, it seems like the 2020 Frontier has a different connector for the steering wheel controls and the camera, do you know of a company that makes an adapter for a 2020 Frontier?
Hightlighted is the very first sentence.
Check out sentence #3.
Screenshot_2021-01-24-11-51-49.png
 

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Your point about bad sound quality from stock Nissan components was driven home for me recently. My son just got his learners permit and his grandfather gave him a 2000 Camry with 280k on it. It still had the factory CD/Cassette player. I wanted him to have a back up camera for safety. I found I could buy a new head unit with a camera as cheaply as a stand alone backup camera system so I went that route so he could have Apple Car play. It can't hurt for him to have navigation if he gets lost.

I installed all this but left the 20 year old factory speakers in place. The head unit was less than $100 so its a cheapy. Despite that his car audio is now much better than what I have in my truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Despite that his car audio is now much better than what I have in my truck.
Yep.

A lot of people won't get it until they actually experience it.
 

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I have decided to upgrade and I have a question. I have ordered a new head unit from Crutchfield. I have also ordered new speakers for the front and rear doors. I know about the issues when you switch from 2ohms to 4ohms. My question is about the factory tweeters. Will it cause issues if I leave them in place? I read that using 2ohms speakers with a aftermarket head unit can cause heating issues. Can I just unplug them?

I did not see any speaker options that would fit in the factory location or I would have replaced them as well. Its not a lack of money issue. I don't really care for the look of tweeters sitting on my dash exposed.
 
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