Haha!The others are just mad cause the Voices won't talk to them too.
I added tweeters to mine that had crossovers built in so I was able to add them to the front speaker wire in parallel. I used a fish tape reel that someone on here recommended and it was key to getting the wires up there.Installing new component speakers in my DR also. Went to look at
OEM tweeter location on top of dash, removed the cover and found
out there were no OEM tweeters! Wasn't going to use factory wiring
anyway, but can't seem to find any clearance to add new wiring for them.
Did you just hook yours up to factory wiring?
I do have the option to mount them down by the woofers in a
adapter bracket that was included in my Rockford Fosgate package,
(woofer and tweeter right next to each other) but would rather have
the tweeters up top instead. Not sure what I'm going to do since I can't
find wiring clearance up top. There must be clearance, I just can't find it.
Any thoughts?
mdlweb
Not using factory wiring, the OEM dash speaker wires and the OEM front door speaker wires are connected in parallel and I am running active so I ran new speaker wire to each location.Installing new component speakers in my DR also. Went to look at
OEM tweeter location on top of dash, removed the cover and found
out there were no OEM tweeters! Wasn't going to use factory wiring
anyway, but can't seem to find any clearance to add new wiring for them.
Did you just hook yours up to factory wiring?
I do have the option to mount them down by the woofers in a
adapter bracket that was included in my Rockford Fosgate package,
(woofer and tweeter right next to each other) but would rather have
the tweeters up top instead. Not sure what I'm going to do since I can't
find wiring clearance up top. There must be clearance, I just can't find it.
Any thoughts?
mdlweb
Wait - when I said I'm running "active" that means there is no crossover between the amps and my speakers, each speaker has its own amplifier channel. Since you said the plural "crossovers" I think you mean passive crossovers (small circuit box, you connect the tweeter and woofer to it, then it to the amp or headhunt)?Thanks raine!! I'm using active cross-overs also.
Good to hearI just dropped the main glove box down by squeezing in the sides of the box (like changing the cabin filter), shoved the wire down there, and was able to pull it thru the rest of the way. Thanks again! Hope you and the truck are doing well - LOL
We should talk LOLI'm a mountain biker also. Been in the industry for about 40 years now).
Have a merry Xmas and holidays!!
No - no DRLs in U.S.Raine,
Did you have to deal with DRL's when you did the headlight conversion? I like the added light of those Katanas, but my headlights come on at half power during the day, damn canadian shite. I'm thinking I'll have to rewire to move DRL's. Or do the drivers take care of that?
If that's all it takes, sounds like it should be easy with a relay tied into the signal wire coming out from the parking brake somewhere.If you can fool the DRL module in to thinking the parking brake is on the DRL will not function. Pulling the park brake up untill the light comes on the dash disables the DRL, just do it before turning the key on.
Yes, they are
Like RyanD1966 suggested, for a switched 12V+ signal in just that location I'd probably also look at tapping it from the fuse/fuseable link box in the engine bay. My reservoir LED lights use switched 12v+ and relay in their circuit, but the source is in the cabin since I have an on/off toggle (which for switchback bulbs you don't need to begin with)Raine: I am adding switchback DRL (LEDs) to my truck. Each DRL LED light has three wires, RED for power; YELLOW = Turn Signals and BLACK ground. I am using a relay in the circuit. The relay is 40 amp 4 pins (30 amps are hard to find) I am having difficulty finding a power source near the battery or near the airbox to which I can attach my 86 (on the relay) wire to provide a power source. I need to provide power to the DRLs only when Ignition is ON (the second click before we crank the engine). Hope my question is not too confusing. Any help?
awesome, good to hearThank You RyanD and Raine. I got it all hooked up and is working. I added an Add-a-circuit fuse to the left turn signal fuse in the engine compartment (the front small black box). All is working.
Planning on getting the White Rhino Light Bar. How much clearance is there for lights? Are the ones you got as wide of a profile that can fit?I selected these because of two reasons: first, they had a slim profile, which was required due to how close the White Rhino light bar mounting holes are to the bumper. Second, I picked the "ATP" version, which stands for "All Terrain Pattern" - which is best described as a combination of the fog lamp and flood lamp pattern. I felt that this would be the right beam pattern due to the fact that the PIAAs would be mounted in between the OEM headlamps and the OEM fog lamps. Here's the ATP pattern (photo from PIAA website www.piaa.com):
Not much.Planning on getting the White Rhino Light Bar. How much clearance is there for lights? Are the ones you got as wide of a profile that can fit?