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Raine's 2014 SV CC 4x4 "KEIRA" Build Thread

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2014 Frontier SV CC 4x4 "KEIRA" Build Thread
Thanks for stopping by and welcome =)

LAST 5 UPDATES:

MORE THINGS WRITTEN BY ME:
If you want to read why upgrading the stock Frontier audio is recommended, read this: Nissan Frontier Audio Upgrade Guide
To learn about camber bolts and upper control arms when lifting, read this: The End-All Guide to Camber Bolts and UCAs for 2nd Gen Frontiers
To understand why you should rotate your tires on a regular basis, read this: Tire Rotation: It's Worth It!
To properly re-aim your OEM halogen headlamps after an LED bulb upgrade, follow this: How-To Aim Your Headlamps (with LED Bulbs Installed)
To read my testing and results regarding popular Bluetooth OBD2 mods, see these threads: Idle RPM Bump and the 2-degree Timing Advance

To see my build in a blog format, I have a dedicated website mirroring the content in this thread, here: Project:KEIRA













INTRO
Buy a truck, do stuff, take pictures, and end up with a build thread… by the time I started this thread I’ve had my truck for a little over a year now, and I’ve been steadily doing stuff to it since the first day I drove it home so I decided it was time to make my own build thread to keep track of everything I’m doing. Speaking of the beginning… without getting too complicated, I had a change in lifestyle. I started mountain biking, I started camping, and I started to realize that having a lowered SC300 was no longer practical. I was always a Nissan guy at heart (previously had a Maxima, Pathfinder, 200SX SE-R, 240SX... don't ask me how a Lexus got in there) so I knew the next vehicle was going to be a Nissan Frontier. That said, what basically happened next was:



NOTE –This is my third vehicle named “Keira” because I'm in love with Keira Knightley. I had a Nissan 240SX named "Keira", my Lexus SC300 was named “Keira”, and now my Frontier is named "Keira." We’ll just leave it at that. Ok - with the intro out of the way, let's get to the thread, listed from oldest to current. Oh, and feel free to comment or ask questions if you like :)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

INFO
USERNAME: Raine
YEAR: 2014
TRIM: SV 4x4 Crew Cab
COLOR: Night Armor

NOTE: List items in order chronologically. The number at the beginning of the list items below goes to the original post # in this thread - the text link goes to the project:KEIRA website post. EOL means “End Of Life” - the mod is old, removed, or replaced.

AUDIO/VIDEO
(#022) Alpine PDX-V9 5-Channel 1000w Class-D Amplifier
(#022) JL Audio 10TW-1 10" Subwoofers
(#043) Modified OEM Bluetooth Microphone
(#043) Working OEM Steering Wheel Controls
(#043) Working OEM USB Port w/Audio
(#043) Working OEM Back-up Camera
(#398) JL Audio TWK-88 Digital Signal Processor
(#399) Hertz Audio Hi Energy HSK-165 6.5” Component System
(#401) Hertz Audio Dieci DCX-165.3 6.5" Coaxial Speakers
(#425) Pyle PLCM38FRV "Shuttle Camera"
(#485) Under-seat Amp and DSP Platforms
(#584) Super NES Classic Retro Gaming Console
(#642) Soundstream ST2.1000D 2-Channel Amplifier
(#656) SiriusXM SXV-300 Satellite Tuner
(#859) Kenwood Excelon Ref. Series XR DNX-995S Head Unit
(#1082) Best Mod Ever - Sinjimoru Cable Holder

SUSPENSION
(#179) Bilstein 5125 Custom Length Rear Shocks (for 2-3" Lift)
(#179) PRG/Deaver 2-leaf AAL (for 2.5" Lift)
(#179) Nisstec 2.5-degree Axle Shims
(#179) Nisstec Zinc-Plated 7.5" U-Bolts
(#185) OEM Nissan LCA Camber/Caster Bolts
(#203) Custom King Off-Road Custom 2.5" Coilovers
(#221) OEM Front Sway Bar Removed
(#318) PRG 1/2" Front Lift Spacers
(#455 / #456) Custom External Mounts for King Reservoirs
(#890) SPC Adjustable Upper Control Arms (UCAs)

WHEELS, TIRES, & BRAKES
(#130 / #131) Level 8 Bully Pro 6 Wheels
(#142) R1 Motorsports Drilled & Slotted Rotors
(#142) Red Painted Brake Calipers
(#601) Modded FJ Spare Tire cover
(#906) New Hubcentric Rings and Lug Nuts
(#1053) Falken Wildpeak A/T-3W Tires

EXTERIOR MODS
(#006) Truxedo LoPro Qt Tonneau Cover
(#006) OEM Genuine Nissan Front & Rear Splash Guards
(#006) OEM Genuine Nissan Side Window Deflector Set
(#245) OEM Genuine Nissan Titan "4x4 Off-Road" Decals
(#624) Dee Zee Heavy Duty Fitted Truck Bed Mat
(#937) OEM Genuine Nissan Rope Hooks (w/added Security)
(#1051) OEM Genuine Nissan Bed Divider
(#1107) Rough Country Side Step Rails

INTERIOR MODS
(#007) UltraGauge EM-Plus OBD2 Monitor
(#026) Dynamat Extreme Sound Deadener (Doors)
(#034) Dynamat Extreme Sound Deadener (Rear Wall and Floor)
(#149) Raingler Rear Passenger Headrest Handles
(#665) Center Armrest Cloth Cover
(#1067) MaxLiner/SmartLiner All-Weather Floor Mats

OFF-ROADY THINGS
(#114) White Rhino Fabrication Light Bar
(#153) Genuine Nissan Pro-4X Oil Pan Skid Plate
(#153) Genuine Nissan Pro-4X Transfer Case Skid Plate
(#454) Painted OEM Radiator Skid Plate
(#463) P&P Front Recovery Points
(#996) Bond Mini D-Handle Shovel
(#1011) X-Bull Recovery Boards
(#1075) Genuine Nissan Pro-4X Fuel Tank Skid Plate
(#1081) 4-Way Air-Up/Down Equalizer
(#1133) Midland MXT-275 GMRS Radio

LIGHTING RELATED
(#018) LED Interior Bulbs
(#018 Phillips White Vision LED Reverse Bulbs
(#018) UtiliTrack Bed LED Lights
(#066) LED Footwell and Under-Seat Display Lights
(#455 / #456 / #553) Custom External Reservoir LED Accent Lamps
(#933) Remote Timed Bed LED Light Switches
(#1188) LED Rear Door Step Lights

ENGINE AREA STUFF
(#006) Stant Locking Gas Cap
(#105) Mitsuba SH-1/SL-1 Truck Horns
(#122) Engine Block Ground Replacement Cable
(#496) Off-Road Gorilla Hood Strut Kit
(#595) Interstate 640 CCA Battery

TRIMMING FOR TIRE CLEARANCE POSTS
(#152) Trimming Fenders For Tire Clearance (Part 1)
(#169) Trimming the Front Lip For Tire Clearance (Part 2)
(#171) Trimming the Fender Liners For Tire Clearance (Part 3)
(#177) Trimming the Splash Guards For Tire Clearance (Part 4)

CUSTOM MODS & MISC INSTALLS
(#014) Custom Power Tailgate Lock Mod
(#454) Painted OEM Radiator Skid Plate
(#455 / #456) Custom External Mounts for King Reservoirs
(#634) System Refresh, Cable Management (Day 1)
(#641) System Refresh, Upholstered A/V Panels (Day 2)
(#642) System Refresh, New Rear Fill Amplifier (Day 3)
(#643) System Refresh, Bass Controller + Voltmeter (Day 4)
(#644) System Refresh, Reinstalling Everything (Day 5)
(#696) Custom Speaker Pod Fabrication (Part 1)
(#701) Custom Tweeter Pod Finishing and Install (Part 2)
(#847) Custom Mounted JL TWK-88 Control Knob and LED
(#940) Custom Rear Seat USB Charging Ports
(#1029) Air Comp Project, Part 1: Viair Hard Case Mod
(#1105) Air Comp Project, Part 2: Air By Numbers
(#1130) EFX 4-Way Power Distribution Block
(#1130) Blue Sea Interior Fuse Panel
(#1132) Auxbeam 8-Gang Control Panel
(#1136) Custom GMRS Radio Plug
(#1146) Custom Nagoya GMRS Antenna Install

BUILD THREAD HOW-TO’S
(#013) How-To Relocate the Trailer Plug
(#018) How-To Delete the Trailer Plug Bracket
(#067) How-To Do the Rear Axle Vent / Diff Breather Mod
(#072) How-To Swap to Navara Emblems
(#173) How-To Install or Swap Fog Lamps
(#328) How-To Swap to a Genuine Nissan Rogue Key
(#328) How-To Program Your New Rogue/Switchblade Key Remote
(#411) How-To Swap to a Nissan "Switchblade" Flip Key
(#536) How-To Install the EZ-Down Tailgate Damper Kit
(#565) How-To Program an OEM Nissan Tire Pressure Sensor (TPMS)
(#750) How-To Aim Your Frontier Headlamps the Correct Way
(#937) How-To Install OEM Nissan Rope Hooks (w/added Security)
(#1195) How-To: Front Seat Cushion Lift Mod

TRIPS AND OTHER STUFF
(#004) The First Day Home
(#021) Mountain Biking at M-Trail, Riverside, CA
(#068) Getting Lost in Cleghorn Ridge, San Bernardino Mountains, CA
(#073) Mountain Biking at Snow Summit, Big Bear, CA
(#079) Camping in Cleveland National Forest, CA
(#088) Azusa Canyon OHV Exploring, San Gabriel Canyon, CA
(#108) Return to Cleghorn Ridge, San Bernardino Mountains, CA
(#123) Mountain Biking at Marshall Canyon, La Verne, CA
(#140) Some Photos Before the Rain at Pomona, CA
(#162) Lytle Creek Afternoon Trail Run, San Bernardino Mountains, CA
(#207) Return to Azusa OHV with New Suspension, San Gabriel Canyon, CA
(#235) King Shocks Suspension Down Travel Notes
(#263) Silverwood Trail Run, San Bernardino, CA
(#797) My Truck on the White Rhino Fabrication Website
(#936) Update: Rear Axle Vent Mod, 5 Years Later (?)
(#N/A) Guide: Why Outside Mounted Window Deflector Visors are Better
(#1063) Sort-of Normal: First Trail Run in 2021, San Bernardino, CA

OTHER THINGS THAT TOOK SOME TRUCK MONEY
(#375) 2016 Commencal Meta V4 Mountain Bike
(#520) 2018 Commencal Supreme SX
(#861) 2019 Commencal Meta Power 29

EOL / ARCHIVED
(#006) OEM Nissan Wheel Lock Set
(#006) OEM Genuine Nissan Side Step Rails
(#008) Rocky Mounts Clutch SD Bike Mounts
(#011) How-To: Custom Center Dash Phone Holder
(#012) Audio Control Epicenter Processor
(#012) JL Audio XD300/1v2 Mono Amplifier
(#012) Kicker C10 Subwoofers x2
(#012) ASC Prefab Dual Subwoofer Enclosure
(#018) Phillips Crystal Vision Headlamp Bulbs
(#018) Phillips Crystal Vision Fog Lamp Bulbs
(#021) Pipeline Rail Rack Bike Holder
(#022) Alpine RUX Control Knob
(#042) Image Dynamics CXS v.2 6.5” Components
(#042) Custom Upper Dash Speaker Mounts
(#043) Kenwood Excelon DNX-892 Navigation Head Unit
(#043) Amazon Fire TV
(#043) Forward Facing Camera
(#061) MiniDSP DSP 2-Channel Processor
(#061) MiniDC Regulated Power Supply
(#078) Midland 75-822 In-Cabin/Handheld CB Radio
(#080) Firestik NGP Custom OEM Location Install
(#095) Fabricated Custom Mounting Base for Firestik NGP CB Antenna
(#109) Blue Sea Systems 6-Circuit ST-Blade Fuse Block
(#113) OEM Genuine Nissan Xterra "Off-Road Lamps" Switch
(#118) PIAA 520 ATP 6” Off-Road Lamps
(#131) BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 Tires
(#141) Quickie Firestik Antenna Shrink Mod
(#173) Lamin-X Yellow Fog Lamp Overlays
(#185) Total Chaos Upper Control Arms
(#241) Remote HDMI+USB Connector
(#303) White Knuckle Off-Road DOM Steel Rock Sliders
(#305) Hi-Tech Industries GT-5000 Traction Tape
(#426) PIAA 520 ATP Custom Wire Wrap
(#431) Rigid Industries D-Series LED Driving Lamps
(#485) Kenwood KAC-M3004 2-Channel Amplifier
(#643) CT Sounds Universal Bass Knob w/Voltmeter
(#747) Katana LED Headlamp Bulb Upgrade
(#901) Hankook DynaPro AT-M (RF10) Tires
(#1018) Baofeng UV-5RTP FM Radio
(#1111) Custom iPad Pro + GMRS Radio Mount
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The others are just mad cause the Voices won't talk to them too.
Haha!

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
Installing new component speakers in my DR also. Went to look at
OEM tweeter location on top of dash, removed the cover and found
out there were no OEM tweeters! Wasn't going to use factory wiring
anyway, but can't seem to find any clearance to add new wiring for them.
Did you just hook yours up to factory wiring?

I do have the option to mount them down by the woofers in a
adapter bracket that was included in my Rockford Fosgate package,
(woofer and tweeter right next to each other) but would rather have
the tweeters up top instead. Not sure what I'm going to do since I can't
find wiring clearance up top. There must be clearance, I just can't find it.
Any thoughts?

mdlweb
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Installing new component speakers in my DR also. Went to look at
OEM tweeter location on top of dash, removed the cover and found
out there were no OEM tweeters! Wasn't going to use factory wiring
anyway, but can't seem to find any clearance to add new wiring for them.
Did you just hook yours up to factory wiring?

I do have the option to mount them down by the woofers in a
adapter bracket that was included in my Rockford Fosgate package,
(woofer and tweeter right next to each other) but would rather have
the tweeters up top instead. Not sure what I'm going to do since I can't
find wiring clearance up top. There must be clearance, I just can't find it.
Any thoughts?

mdlweb
I added tweeters to mine that had crossovers built in so I was able to add them to the front speaker wire in parallel. I used a fish tape reel that someone on here recommended and it was key to getting the wires up there.
Here it is
Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
Installing new component speakers in my DR also. Went to look at
OEM tweeter location on top of dash, removed the cover and found
out there were no OEM tweeters! Wasn't going to use factory wiring
anyway, but can't seem to find any clearance to add new wiring for them.
Did you just hook yours up to factory wiring?

I do have the option to mount them down by the woofers in a
adapter bracket that was included in my Rockford Fosgate package,
(woofer and tweeter right next to each other) but would rather have
the tweeters up top instead. Not sure what I'm going to do since I can't
find wiring clearance up top. There must be clearance, I just can't find it.
Any thoughts?

mdlweb
Not using factory wiring, the OEM dash speaker wires and the OEM front door speaker wires are connected in parallel and I am running active so I ran new speaker wire to each location.

Not sure what you mean by "can't seem to find any clearance"; you can practically see straight up from the driver's side footwell to the driver's side dash speaker opening.

The passenger side you'll need to use fish tape or similar to run the wire down from the dash opening, behind the HVAC components, and out the bottom of the right-side dash OR pull both glove boxes (easy) and fish speaker wire from the passenger side dash speaker opening, to behind the glove box area, to wherever you need the speaker wire to go.
Thanks raine!! I'm using active cross-overs also. I just dropped the main glove box down
by squeezing in the sides of the box (like changing the cabin filter), shoved the wire down
there, and was able to pull it thru the rest of the way. Thanks again! Hope you and the
truck are doing well - LOL (I'm a mountain biker also. Been in the industry for about 40 years now).
Have a merry Xmas and holidays!!
Thanks raine!! I'm using active cross-overs also.
Wait - when I said I'm running "active" that means there is no crossover between the amps and my speakers, each speaker has its own amplifier channel. Since you said the plural "crossovers" I think you mean passive crossovers (small circuit box, you connect the tweeter and woofer to it, then it to the amp or headhunt)?

I just dropped the main glove box down by squeezing in the sides of the box (like changing the cabin filter), shoved the wire down there, and was able to pull it thru the rest of the way. Thanks again! Hope you and the truck are doing well - LOL
Good to hear

I'm a mountain biker also. Been in the industry for about 40 years now).
Have a merry Xmas and holidays!!
We should talk LOL

Happy holidays to you too ::smile::
Raine,
Did you have to deal with DRL's when you did the headlight conversion? I like the added light of those Katanas, but my headlights come on at half power during the day, damn canadian shite. I'm thinking I'll have to rewire to move DRL's. Or do the drivers take care of that?
Raine,
Did you have to deal with DRL's when you did the headlight conversion? I like the added light of those Katanas, but my headlights come on at half power during the day, damn canadian shite. I'm thinking I'll have to rewire to move DRL's. Or do the drivers take care of that?
No - no DRLs in U.S.

You'll probably have to disable the DRL circuit somehow in the truck, I doubt the LED drivers have any DRL circuitry designed in them.
If you can fool the DRL module in to thinking the parking brake is on the DRL will not function. Pulling the park brake up untill the light comes on the dash disables the DRL, just do it before turning the key on.
Raine: I am adding switchback DRL (LEDs) to my truck. Each DRL LED light has three wires, RED for power; YELLOW = Turn Signals and BLACK ground. I am using a relay in the circuit. The relay is 40 amp 4 pins (30 amps are hard to find) I am having difficulty finding a power source near the battery or near the airbox to which I can attach my 86 (on the relay) wire to provide a power source. I need to provide power to the DRLs only when Ignition is ON (the second click before we crank the engine). Hope my question is not too confusing. Any help?
No mine are the strip lights that I am trying to add below the headlights. no name brand.
MSK59, I tapped into the IPDM E/R box underhood to pull an ignition, low beam and high beam tap. Wasn't super easy but if you are careful it's certainly possible, slicking the cable insulation back with a box-cutter and soldering a tap off the existing wire(s). I ran that over to my home-brewed fuse / relay centre and powered a 40A Bosch relay for ignition switching back to the cab, to the Blue Sea fuse block. The block inside my underhood box is hot at all times.
OK thank you. Those are the areas I wanted to avoid. I just did a similar hookup on my 350z and tapped into the wire that was not connected and everything is working fine. Can you tell me the color of the wire and the location where you tapped into (picture etc.)? I don't have a dedicated blue box setup.

Raine: sorry for threadjacking.
If you can fool the DRL module in to thinking the parking brake is on the DRL will not function. Pulling the park brake up untill the light comes on the dash disables the DRL, just do it before turning the key on.
If that's all it takes, sounds like it should be easy with a relay tied into the signal wire coming out from the parking brake somewhere.

Yes, they are

Raine: I am adding switchback DRL (LEDs) to my truck. Each DRL LED light has three wires, RED for power; YELLOW = Turn Signals and BLACK ground. I am using a relay in the circuit. The relay is 40 amp 4 pins (30 amps are hard to find) I am having difficulty finding a power source near the battery or near the airbox to which I can attach my 86 (on the relay) wire to provide a power source. I need to provide power to the DRLs only when Ignition is ON (the second click before we crank the engine). Hope my question is not too confusing. Any help?
Like RyanD1966 suggested, for a switched 12V+ signal in just that location I'd probably also look at tapping it from the fuse/fuseable link box in the engine bay. My reservoir LED lights use switched 12v+ and relay in their circuit, but the source is in the cabin since I have an on/off toggle (which for switchback bulbs you don't need to begin with)
Thank You RyanD and Raine. I got it all hooked up and is working. I added an Add-a-circuit fuse to the left turn signal fuse in the engine compartment (the front small black box). All is working.
Thank You RyanD and Raine. I got it all hooked up and is working. I added an Add-a-circuit fuse to the left turn signal fuse in the engine compartment (the front small black box). All is working.
awesome, good to hear
I selected these because of two reasons: first, they had a slim profile, which was required due to how close the White Rhino light bar mounting holes are to the bumper. Second, I picked the "ATP" version, which stands for "All Terrain Pattern" - which is best described as a combination of the fog lamp and flood lamp pattern. I felt that this would be the right beam pattern due to the fact that the PIAAs would be mounted in between the OEM headlamps and the OEM fog lamps. Here's the ATP pattern (photo from PIAA website www.piaa.com):
Planning on getting the White Rhino Light Bar. How much clearance is there for lights? Are the ones you got as wide of a profile that can fit?
Planning on getting the White Rhino Light Bar. How much clearance is there for lights? Are the ones you got as wide of a profile that can fit?
Not much.
You pretty much need a slim lamp where the rear of the lamp is about flush with the back edge of the mounting bracket.
White Rhino Fabrication Website (12.30.18)

If you go to the White Rhino Fabrication website and look at their light bar for the Nissan Frontier w/plastic bumpers, you'll see that they used a picture of my truck. Funny, because I don't remember if I sent them those pics, or if they asked me if they can use my pic:


...and they didn't even ask me or give me credit for the photo.

Anyhow - in all seriousness, Chris (the owner) at White Rhino Fab is a good dude, one of the few places that make Nissan Frontier-specific parts that I'd recommend. If you haven't seen it yet, here's my build thread post on my White Rhino Fab front light bar, or you can go to their website below:

White Rhino Fabrication
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