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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2014 Frontier SV CC 4x4 "KEIRA" Build Thread
Thanks for stopping by and welcome =)

LATEST UPDATE: 01.04.2020 (#996) Can You Dig It

MORE THINGS WRITTEN BY ME:
If you want to read why upgrading the stock Frontier audio is recommended, read this: Nissan Frontier Audio Upgrade Guide
To learn about camber bolts and upper control arms when lifting, read this: The End-All Guide to Camber Bolts and UCAs for 2nd Gen Frontiers
To see my build in blog format, I have a dedicated website mirroring the content in this thread, here: See my truck at Project:KEIRA













INTRO
Buy a truck, do stuff, take pictures, and end up with a build thread… by the time I started this thread I’ve had my truck for a little over a year now, and I’ve been steadily doing stuff to it since the first day I drove it home so I decided it was time to make my own build thread to keep track of everything I’m doing. Speaking of the beginning… without getting too complicated, I had a change in lifestyle. I started mountain biking, I started camping, and I started to realize that having a lowered SC300 was no longer practical. I was always a Nissan guy at heart (previously had a Maxima, Pathfinder, 200SX SE-R, 240SX... don't ask me how a Lexus got in there) so I knew the next vehicle was going to be a Nissan Frontier. That said, what basically happened next was:



NOTE –This is my third vehicle named “Keira” because I'm in love with Keira Knightley. I had a Nissan 240SX named "Keira", my Lexus SC300 was named “Keira”, and now my Frontier is named "Keira." We’ll just leave it at that. Ok - with the intro out of the way, let's get to the thread, listed from oldest to current. Oh, and feel free to comment or ask questions if you like :)

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INFO
USERNAME: Raine
YEAR: 2014
TRIM: SV 4x4 Crew Cab
COLOR: Night Armor

NOTE: List items in order chronologically. The number at the beginning of the list items below goes to the original post # in this thread - the text link goes to the project:KEIRA website post. EOL means “End Of Life” - the mod is old, removed, or replaced.

AUDIO/VIDEO
(#022) Alpine PDX-V9 5-Channel 1000w Class-D Amplifier
(#022) JL Audio 10TW-1 10" Subwoofers
(#043) Modified OEM Bluetooth Microphone
(#043) Working OEM Steering Wheel Controls
(#043) Working OEM USB Port w/Audio
(#043) Working OEM Back-up Camera
(#398) JL Audio TWK-88 Digital Signal Processor
(#399) Hertz Audio Hi Energy HSK-165 6.5” Component System
(#401) Hertz Audio Dieci DCX-165.3 6.5" Coaxial Speakers
(#425) Pyle PLCM38FRV "Shuttle Camera"
(#485) Under-seat Amp and DSP Platforms
(#584) Super NES Classic Retro Gaming Console
(#642) Soundstream ST2.1000D 2-Channel Amplifier
(#656) SiriusXM SXV-300 Satellite Tuner
(#859) Kenwood Excelon Ref. Series XR DNX-995S Head Unit

SUSPENSION
(#179) Bilstein 5125 Custom Length Rear Shocks (for 2-3" Lift)
(#179) PRG/Deaver 2-leaf AAL (for 2.5" Lift)
(#179) Nisstec 2.5-degree Axle Shims
(#179) Nisstec Zinc-Plated 7.5" U-Bolts
(#185) OEM Nissan LCA Camber/Caster Bolts
(#203) Custom King Off-Road Custom 2.5" Coilovers
(#221) OEM Front Sway Bar Removed
(#318) PRG 1/2" Front Lift Spacers
(#455 / #456) Custom External Mounts for King Reservoirs
(#890) SPC Adjustable Upper Control Arms (UCAs)

WHEELS, TIRES, & BRAKES
(#130 / #131) Level 8 Bully Pro 6 Wheels
(#142) R1 Motorsports Drilled & Slotted Rotors
(#142) Red Painted Brake Calipers
(#601) Modded FJ Spare Tire cover
(#906) New Hubcentric Rings and Lug Nuts

EXTERIOR MODS
(#006) Truxedo LoPro Qt Tonneau Cover
(#006) OEM Genuine Nissan Side Step Rails
(#006) OEM Genuine Nissan Front & Rear Splash Guards
(#006) OEM Genuine Nissan Side Window Deflector Set
(#245) OEM Genuine Nissan Titan "4x4 Off-Road" Decals
(#624) Dee Zee Heavy Duty Fitted Truck Bed Mat
(#937) OEM Genuine Nissan Rope Hooks (w/added Security)

INTERIOR MODS
(#007) UltraGauge EM-Plus OBD2 Monitor
(#026) Dynamat Extreme Sound Deadener (Doors)
(#034) Dynamat Extreme Sound Deadener (Rear Wall and Floor)
(#149) Raingler Rear Passenger Headrest Handles
(#665) Center Armrest Cloth Cover

OFF-ROADY THINGS
(#114) White Rhino Fabrication Light Bar
(#153) Genuine Nissan Pro-4X Oil Pan Skid Plate
(#153) Genuine Nissan Pro-4X Transfer Case Skid Plate
(#454) Painted OEM Radiator Skid Plate
(#463) P&P Front Recovery Points
(#996) Bond Mini D-Handle Shovel

LIGHTING RELATED
(#018) LED Interior Bulbs
(#018 Phillips White Vision LED Reverse Bulbs
(#018) UtiliTrack Bed LED Lights
(#066) LED Footwell and Under-Seat Display Lights
(#113) OEM Genuine Nissan Xterra "Off-Road Lamps" Switch
(#118) PIAA 520 ATP 6” Off-Road Lamps
(#426) PIAA 520 ATP Custom Wire Wrap
(#431) Rigid Industries D-Series LED Driving Lamps
(#455 / #456 / #553) Custom External Reservoir LED Accent Lamps
(#747) Katana LED Headlamp Bulb Upgrade
(#933) Remote Timed Bed LED Light Switches

ENGINE-AREA STUFF
(#006) Stant Locking Gas Cap
(#105) Mitsuba SH-1/SL-1 Truck Horns
(#109) Blue Sea Systems 6-Circuit ST-Blade Fuse Block
(#122) Engine Block Ground Replacement Cable
(#496) Off-Road Gorilla Hood Strut Kit
(#595) Interstate 640 CCA Battery

TRIMMING FOR TIRE CLEARANCE POSTS
(#152) Trimming Fenders For Tire Clearance (Part 1)
(#169) Trimming the Front Lip For Tire Clearance (Part 2)
(#171) Trimming the Fender Liners For Tire Clearance (Part 3)
(#177) Trimming the Splash Guards For Tire Clearance (Part 4)

CUSTOM MODS & MISC INSTALLS
(#014) Custom Power Tailgate Lock Mod
(#080) Firestik NGP Custom OEM Location Install
(#095) Fabricated Custom Mounting Base for Firestik NGP CB Antenna
(#141) Quickie Firestik Antenna Shrink Mod
(#454) Painted OEM Radiator Skid Plate
(#455 / #456) Custom External Mounts for King Reservoirs
(#634) System Refresh, Cable Management (Day 1)
(#641) System Refresh, Upholstered A/V Panels (Day 2)
(#642) System Refresh, New Rear Fill Amplifier (Day 3)
(#643) System Refresh, Bass Controller + Voltmeter (Day 4)
(#644) System Refresh, Reinstalling Everything (Day 5)
(#696) Custom Speaker Pod Fabrication (Part 1)
(#701) Custom Tweeter Pod Finishing and Install (Part 2)
(#847) Custom Mounted JL TWK-88 Control Knob and LED
(#940) Custom Rear Seat USB Charging Ports

BUILD THREAD HOW-TO’S
(#013) How-To Relocate the Trailer Plug
(#018) How-To Delete the Trailer Plug Bracket
(#067) How-To Do the Rear Axle Vent / Diff Breather Mod
(#072) How-To Swap to Navara Emblems
(#173) How-To Install or Swap Fog Lamps
(#328) How-To Swap to a Genuine Nissan Rogue Key
(#328) How-To Program Your New Rogue/Switchblade Key Remote
(#411) How-To Swap to a Nissan "Switchblade" Flip Key
(#536) How-To Install the EZ-Down Tailgate Damper Kit
(#565) How-To Program an OEM Nissan Tire Pressure Sensor (TPMS)
(#750) How-To Aim Your Frontier Headlamps the Correct Way
(#937) How-To Install OEM Nissan Rope Hooks (w/added Security)

TRIPS AND OTHER STUFF
(#004) The First Day Home
(#021) Mountain Biking at M-Trail, Riverside, CA
(#068) Getting Lost in Cleghorn Ridge, San Bernardino Mountains, CA
(#073) Mountain Biking at Snow Summit, Big Bear, CA
(#079) Camping in Cleveland National Forest, CA
(#088) Azusa Canyon OHV Exploring, San Gabriel Canyon, CA
(#108) Return to Cleghorn Ridge, San Bernardino Mountains, CA
(#123) Mountain Biking at Marshall Canyon, La Verne, CA
(#140) Some Photos Before the Rain at Pomona, CA
(#162) Lytle Creek Afternoon Trail Run, San Bernardino Mountains, CA
(#207) Return to Azusa OHV with New Suspension, San Gabriel Canyon, CA
(#235) King Shocks Suspension Down Travel Notes
(#263) Silverwood Trail Run, San Bernardino, CA
(#797) My Truck on the White Rhino Fabrication Website

(#936) Update: Rear Axle Vent Mod, 5 Years Later (?)
(#N/A) Guide: Why Outside Mounted Window Deflector Visors are Better

OTHER THINGS THAT TOOK SOME TRUCK MONEY
(#375) 2016 Commencal Meta V4 Mountain Bike
(#520) 2018 Commencal Supreme SX
(#861) 2019 Commencal Meta Power 29

EOL / ARCHIVED
(#006) OEM Nissan Wheel Lock Set
(#008) Rocky Mounts Clutch SD Bike Mounts
(#011) How-To: Custom Center Dash Phone Holder
(#012) Audio Control Epicenter Processor
(#012) JL Audio XD300/1v2 Mono Amplifier
(#012) Kicker C10 Subwoofers x2
(#012) ASC Prefab Dual Subwoofer Enclosure
(#018) Phillips Crystal Vision Headlamp Bulbs
(#018) Phillips Crystal Vision Fog Lamp Bulbs
(#021) Pipeline Rail Rack Bike Holder
(#022) Alpine RUX Control Knob
(#042) Image Dynamics CXS v.2 6.5” Components
(#042) Custom Upper Dash Speaker Mounts
(#043) Kenwood Excelon DNX-892 Navigation Head Unit
(#043) Amazon Fire TV
(#043) Forward Facing Camera
(#061) MiniDSP DSP 2-Channel Processor
(#061) MiniDC Regulated Power Supply
(#078) Midland 75-822 In-Cabin/Handheld CB Radio
(#080) Firestik NGP External CB Antenna
(#131) BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 Tires
(#173) Lamin-X Yellow Fog Lamp Overlays
(#185) Total Chaos Upper Control Arms
(#241) Remote HDMI+USB Connector
(#303) White Knuckle Off-Road DOM Steel Rock Sliders
(#305) Hi-Tech Industries GT-5000 Traction Tape
(#485) Kenwood KAC-M3004 2-Channel Amplifier
(#643) CT Sounds Universal Bass Knob w/Voltmeter
(#901) Hankook DynaPro AT-M (RF10) Tires
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Exactly What I Was Looking For (09.26.14)

It took about 6 months after making the decision to change vehicles before I sold my 1995 Lexus SC300 at my asking price, and it finally happened in August of 2014. With the car gone, I pretty much knew what was next; After researching models, options, dealer stock in my area, and thoroughly debating between the SV and Pro-4X, I decided on the Nissan Frontier Crew Cab 4×4 SV with the Value Truck Package, which had a lot of stuff that was not standard on the Pro-4X (unlike the later model years) – plus the Pro-4X had a lot of stuff that I’d probably swap out someday (OEM Bilsteins, wheels, etc.)

Since it was year-end clearance time, the challenge was to find a truck on a dealer lot in Night Armor with a short bed and VTP. That’s exactly what I wanted, nothing more and nothing less. Lucky for me I found one in the exact spec I wanted about 30 minutes away at Metro Nissan in Montclair, CA. It took 3 visits all week and a lot of hard-nose negotiating to get the type of deal and payments I wanted, and they finally gave in after the third night of seeing me there.


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Discussion Starter #5
Looks good. What size tires?
265/75

It's about time...geez! Just kidding. Good start. Looking forward to the rest. :thumbup:
It's going to take longer than I thought because of the automerge, jeniorNV said it's about a 5 minute gap before it resets and lets me post consecutively.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Day One Mods – the First Weekend (09.27.14)
The day after I took the truck home I hit the road and headed to a local auto parts store to pick up some cleaning supplies, and I also bought a Stant Locking Gas Cap (part #10504); this was technically my first mod!

After that I went to a couple of local Nissan Dealerships (closer to me than where I bought the truck) and dropped some cash on a few genuine Nissan accessories that caught my eye in the catalog – originally I just wanted the OEM Nissan Splash Guards and OEM Nissan Wind Deflectors; the parts guy said he’d give me a deal on the OEM Nissan Side Step Rails ($150 flat) because they were just taking up space in the back, and he even offered to throw in a free set of McGuard Wheel Locks… so why not!

One day I went to the market to pick up some stuff, and I couldn’t help but constantly look in my rear view mirror the whole way home, so I decided I needed a tonneau cover. I looked at the tri-fold style at first, but I realized it would be a pain to have to remove it every time I wanted to load my mountain bike up for a ride, so I shopped around for the roll-up style. After looking through hundreds of different brands and models on all kinds of websites, I decided to go with the Truxedo LoPro QT because it had a very low profile to it, and it had a lot of great reviews online. Ordered it online, and just 2 days later I installed it (in about 1 hour).

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Keeping an Eye on Things (10.02.14)

When I saw the UltraGauge EM-Plus in my brother’s Tacoma, I had to have one. Install was a snap – plug the cable into the OBD2 port under the dash, run the cable along the back of the knee panel, up along the side trim, and I stuck it on the dash with the vertical mount. It actually took me longer to get everything programmed to how I liked it. The gauges I normally have setup for daily driving are (clockwise in the photo): short trip miles driven (resets at key off), short trip MPG (resets at key off), average MPG (so I can compare across an entire tank of fuel), engine temp (I prefer a number over a vague needle), distance to empty, and gallons of fuel left (changed this to “miles traveled” later on). It’s a pretty useful little gadget – it doesn’t do ECU reprogramming or anything of that sort – but after using it for the first couple of weeks I realized how heavy my right foot was, and eventually changed my driving habits because of it. If you’re thinking of an OBD scan tool, I’d strongly suggest you consider the UltraGauge.

By the way, the 22.1 MPG shown was achieved during a long road trip back home.
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
For the Mountain Bike (10.03.14)
Just in time for the weekend, I bought a pair of RockyMounts DriveShaft SD bike mounts. The Driveshaft SD was designed to bolt right into the UtiliTracks in the bed, and I particularly liked the fact that it can accept 9mm, 15mm RQ, and 20mm QR axles and has a built-in key lock. These things are pretty heavy and super solid; my mountain bike doesn’t budge or sway one bit while driving. I thought they were a little pricey at first, but they’ve been rock solid for over a year now.





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Welcome to the fun and torture of documenting how much money you've spent and what you spent it on : )
And nice bike!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Welcome to the fun and torture of documenting how much money you've spent and what you spent it on : )
And nice bike!
Oh I already know this feeling well - did the same thing for my SC300 on the Lexus forums a few years back. It's a vicious cycle. It hurts but we keep doing it haha
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Custom Phone Holder Mod (10.18.14)
I normally use Waze while I drive so I needed a way to hold my iPhone 6 Plus where I can see it. I have used the MacAlly Mcup in other vehicles with great results, but because of the position of the Frontier cupholders (back near the elbow) I had to come up with a solution. The idea: directly mount the Mcup onto the console bin at the top of the center console. For power I used a 2-meter USB extension cable and an Anker Lightning Cable. It had to be that long so I could run the extension from the OEM USB port under the center arm rest through the center console area and up behind the OEM radio. After mounting the Mcup assembly into the top bin, I had my iPhone front and center – making navigation use easily visible and accessible.

Used a Dremel to cut some small holes into the console bin.

Just enough for a Lightning cable to fit through.

Modified the base of the Mcup to use a ¼” bolt.

Tied a loose knot to limit the exposed cable length.

A regular fender washer provided a strong, sturdy mounting base.

Bolted together now; cable exit hole is barely noticeable.

USB extension cable from center armrest USB port.

How it looks completed. Phone can be clamped/released with one hand, and clamp rotates to any viewing angle.

UPDATE 03.07.2015: Mod removed when Kenwood DNX-892 Head Unit was installed.
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Let’s Add Some Bass (10.30.14)
I barely lasted a month before deciding that the factory sound system needed more bass. First I needed some speakers, which I found online when I ordered up a simple prefab subwoofer box that fit under the rear seats. The enclosure was a package deal that came preloaded with a pair of Kicker C10’s.





Now that I had a pair of Kicker C10’s under my rear seats, I needed to add some power. Looking initially for something small and simple, I browsed the Crutchfield catalog and chose a JL Audio XD300/1v2 amplifier rated at 300wx1 @2-ohms. I liked the XD Series specifically because of its small dimensions due to being a Class-D amplifier… and I didn’t want to mount the amp behind the rear seats (well, there’s no real room there anyways), so I had to pick something that fit under the driver’s seat.

Knowing the audio signal would be limited by the factory head unit, I also installed an Audio Control Epicenter Bass Processor underneath the passenger seat to get some low frequencies back. I used a PAC Line Output Converter to connect the stock Nissan head unit to the Epicenter’s inputs. With the two Kickers, I had more bass like I wanted. However at the same time, it just showed me how weak the factory main speakers were. Eventually I knew I’d upgrade the audio some more, but for the time being this was fine.









UPDATE 02.07.15: Subwoofers replaced with JL Audio 10TW-1’s, Amplifier replaced with an Alpine PDX-V9, line level converter removed.

UPDATE 09.30.16: Bass Processor replaced with JL Audio TWK-88 Digital Signal Processor.

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
How-To: Trailer Plug Relocation (11.05.14)

I never liked how the OEM trailer plug was on a bracket protruding down from the receiver, it literally looked tacked on! So I decided to relocate it.

TOOLS/PARTS USED
  1. Power Drill
  2. 2-1/4” (57mm) Hole Saw Bit
  3. 7/16” Drill Bit for Metal
  4. Dremel Multi-Tool with Grinding Bit
  5. Socket Wrench, 10mm
  6. Combination wrench, 10mm
  7. Center Punch
  8. Masking Tape (I prefer ScotchBlue)
  9. Ruler
  10. Sharpie Pen
  11. Paint Marker
  12. Flathead Screwdriver (optional)
  13. Round-Edge Metal File (optional)
  14. Shop vac (optional)
The whole job takes less than 30 minutes. once I started cutting. This is an easy job, just make sure you have all the tools listed. I did not take photos of every single step, but the descriptions and the photos I do have should be easy to understand and follow.

STEP 1: From underneath the tailgate area, unplug the trailer plug harness from the trailer plug assembly. You can use the flat head screwdriver to help you here if it’s difficult to disconnect.

STEP 2: Using the 10mm socket and combination wrenches, unbolt the trailer plug from the bracket. Set the hardware aside for now.

STEP 3: Let’s work on the plug first. Using a Dremel with a grinding bit, carefully trim away all the little tabs and steps that surround the round portion of the plug. This will make it easier to install into the bumper, since you won’t have to notch and trim the bumper hole.

STEP 4: Now on to the bumper. Using masking tape, mask off the area to the left of the license plate location from top edge to bottom edge. Use your ruler and Sharpie pen and make a dot that is centered top-to-bottom and left-to-right. For left-to-right, measure from the license plate frame up to where the bumper just starts to curve.

STEP 5: With your mark in place, take the center punch and punch a guide on the Sharpie mark. This is important as it will keep your hole saw bit from wandering when you start drilling/cutting.

STEP 6: Using a drill and the 2-1/4” (57mm) hole saw bit, SLOWLY begin cutting the hole. Take your time here, no need to rush the cut. When the drill bit is through the bumper and the hole cutting blade starts to make contact, make sure to hold the drill level with the bumper so that the hole cutting bit is flush with the bumper. Don’t push with force – let the hole saw do its thing.

STEP 7: Once the hole is cut, don’t remove the masking tape yet. Take the round-edge metal file and clean up the hole edges; if you don’t have a file, you could use the Dremel and grinding bit, but use a low speed and take your time.

STEP 8: With the hole cleaned up, insert the trailer plug into the hole, make sure it’s level, and mark the bolt holes with your Sharpie. Center punch the marks, and then drill two 7/16” holes.

STEP 9: If all is well up to here, you can now remove the masking tape from the bumper. Use a paint marker to seal the bare metal edges of the holes you made to help combat rust.

STEP 10: Slide the trailer plug into the hole. It should be easy since the 2-1/4″ hole saw gives some extra room to get the trailer plug through with no hassles. Use the 10mm bolts to attach the plug to the bumper.

STEP 11: Plug the harness back into the rear of the trailer plug, and the relocation mod is complete!

To get rid of the original bracket, I chopped off as much as I can with a sawzall, but then I had a rough edge along the back, and there was still the plate at the bottom that I couldn’t take off without a grinder. Of course I can’t leave it like this, so first I used the Dremel to clean up the sharp edge and remove some paint from the surrounding areas and the plate welds. Next I used some JB Weld Steelstik to blend in the edges of the plate and the cut edges into the shape of the receiver. Once that dried I used a Dremel, a file, and a sanding block to smooth out the shape before finishing it off with primer and matte black spray paint. Even if it’s a spot that most people might not even see, I still like doing a good job because I know I will see it.

And if you can’t see where the bracket used to be, here you go:


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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Power Lock for the Tailgate (11.08.14)
You know when you get in your truck, drive off, and then pull over real quick just to check if you locked the tailgate? That happened to me a lot (this is my first time owning a truck), so I decided to install a Power Tailgate Lock. The lock would be wired into the cabin door locks, so that it would function just like how SUVs have the dual-press option (press unlock once = only driver door gets unlocked, press unlock twice = all other doors/trunk unlock). I ran a pair of wires from the tailgate area to the left-rear passenger door lock harness. That took the most time since I loomed and wrapped the wires up first, and then ran them hidden along the frame rail. At the tailgate I installed a waterproof connector that piggybacked on top of the OEM backup camera connector. In fact, installing the actual door lock actuator was the easiest part. Total install took about 45 minutes, and the cost of all parts came out to about $15 total. Now I know that whenever I lock the doors, the tailgate will definitely be locked as well.

Added a harness with a waterproof connector in case I need to remove the tailgate.

Here’s the new harness using the same access points as the OEM backup camera harness.

Drilled a small hole in the locking mechanism to attach the actuator rod.

This was the easy part – mounting the actual door lock actuator. Took all but 5 minutes tops.

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Where'd you get the sub enclosure?
 

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Thank you sir!
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Adding Some LEDs (11.09.14)
Using the same wiring harness I ran for the Power Tailgate Lock Mod (it was a 4-wire harness) the other two wires were for the bed LED Light Strips. I ran an LED strip from end to end on the bottom edge of the left and right UtiliTracks on the sides of the truck bed. The wiring for the LED strips ran behind each taillight before meeting in the center underneath. From here I connected the other end of the harness to the cargo lamp harness behind the rear seats. This made it so that the bed LEDs would go on whenever the cargo lamps were on – whether the trigger was unlocking the truck, or using the cargo lamp switch in the dash. This also ensured that I wouldn’t leave them on accidentally, as they would automatically turn off when the cargo lamps also turned off. Cost for this mod was about $15 for the LED strips from eBay.

I thought I had more pics of the bed LED install, but this is it until I can take a better one. The photo below is my map lights; I switched all of the interior bulbs to white LEDs (about $20).


Just to add this here since it’s about lighting, I swapped out the OEM headlamp and OEM foglamp bulbs to Phillips Crystal Vision bulbs. Also, I did eventually swap the back-up reverse lights (in the taillamp assembly) to a pair of Phillips White Vision 921 LEDs. I did not take any photos of this, so you’ll just have to believe me.

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
What did you do about the trailer plug bracket afterwards? did you cut it off?

Thanks
Chopped off as much as I can, blended it in with Steelstik, then painted with matte black spray paint (info added to the trailer plug post, above):

 
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