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Raine's 2014 SV CC 4x4 "KEIRA" Build Thread

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#1 · (Edited)
2014 Frontier SV CC 4x4 "KEIRA" Build Thread
Thanks for stopping by and welcome =)

LAST 5 UPDATES:

MORE THINGS WRITTEN BY ME:













INTRO
Buy a truck, do stuff, take pictures, and end up with a build thread… by the time I started this thread I’ve had my truck for a little over a year now, and I’ve been steadily doing stuff to it since the first day I drove it home so I decided it was time to make my own build thread to keep track of everything I’m doing. Speaking of the beginning… without getting too complicated, I had a change in lifestyle. I started mountain biking, I started camping, and I started to realize that having a lowered SC300 was no longer practical. I was always a Nissan guy at heart (previously had a Maxima, Pathfinder, 200SX SE-R, 240SX... don't ask me how a Lexus got in there) so I knew the next vehicle was going to be a Nissan Frontier. That said, what basically happened next was:



NOTE –This is my third vehicle named “Keira” because I'm in love with Keira Knightley. I had a Nissan 240SX named "Keira", my Lexus SC300 was named “Keira”, and now my Frontier is named "Keira." We’ll just leave it at that. Ok - with the intro out of the way, let's get to the thread, listed from oldest to current. Oh, and feel free to comment or ask questions if you like :)

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INFO
USERNAME: Raine
YEAR: 2014
TRIM: SV 4x4 Crew Cab
COLOR: Night Armor

NOTE: List items in order chronologically. The number at the beginning of the list items below goes to the original post # in this thread - the text link goes to the project:KEIRA website post. EOL means “End Of Life” - the mod is old, removed, or replaced.

AUDIO/VIDEO
(#022) Alpine PDX-V9 5-Channel 1000w Class-D Amplifier
(#022) JL Audio 10TW-1 10" Subwoofers
(#043) Modified OEM Bluetooth Microphone
(#043) Working OEM Steering Wheel Controls
(#043) Working OEM USB Port w/Audio
(#043) Working OEM Back-up Camera
(#398) JL Audio TWK-88 Digital Signal Processor
(#399) Hertz Audio Hi Energy HSK-165 6.5” Component System
(#401) Hertz Audio Dieci DCX-165.3 6.5" Coaxial Speakers
(#485) Under-seat Amp and DSP Platforms
(#584) Super NES Classic Retro Gaming Console
(#642) Soundstream ST2.1000D 2-Channel Amplifier
(#656) SiriusXM SXV-300 Satellite Tuner
(#859) Kenwood Excelon Ref. Series XR DNX-995S Head Unit
(#1082) Best Mod Ever - Sinjimoru Cable Holder
(#1271) N02 HD Infrared Trail Camera

SUSPENSION
(#179) Bilstein 5125 Custom Length Rear Shocks (for 2-3" Lift)
(#179) PRG/Deaver 2-leaf AAL (for 2.5" Lift)
(#179) Nisstec 2.5-degree Axle Shims
(#179) Nisstec Zinc-Plated 7.5" U-Bolts
(#185) OEM Nissan LCA Camber/Caster Bolts
(#203) Custom King Off-Road Custom 2.5" Coilovers
(#221) OEM Front Sway Bar Removed
(#318) PRG 1/2" Front Lift Spacers
(#455 / #456) Custom External Mounts for King Reservoirs
(#890) SPC Adjustable Upper Control Arms (UCAs)

WHEELS, TIRES, & BRAKES
(#130 / #131) Level 8 Bully Pro 6 Wheels
(#142) R1 Motorsports Drilled & Slotted Rotors
(#142) Red Painted Brake Calipers
(#601) Modded FJ Spare Tire cover
(#906) New Hubcentric Rings and Lug Nuts
(#1053) Falken Wildpeak A/T-3W Tires

EXTERIOR MODS
(#006) Truxedo LoPro Qt Tonneau Cover
(#006) OEM Genuine Nissan Front & Rear Splash Guards
(#006) OEM Genuine Nissan Side Window Deflector Set
(#072) OEM Genuine Nissan Navara Emblems
(#245) OEM Genuine Nissan Titan "4x4 Off-Road" Decals
(#536) EZ-Down Tailgate Damper Kit
(#624) Dee Zee Heavy Duty Fitted Truck Bed Mat
(#937) OEM Genuine Nissan Rope Hooks (w/added Security)
(#1051) OEM Genuine Nissan Bed Divider
(#1107) Rough Country Side Step Rails

INTERIOR MODS
(#007) UltraGauge EM-Plus OBD2 Monitor
(#026) Dynamat Extreme Sound Deadener (Doors)
(#034) Dynamat Extreme Sound Deadener (Rear Wall and Floor)
(#149) Raingler Rear Passenger Headrest Handles
(#665) Center Armrest Cloth Cover
(#1067) MaxLiner/SmartLiner All-Weather Floor Mats

OFF-ROADY THINGS
(#153) Genuine Nissan Pro-4X Oil Pan Skid Plate
(#153) Genuine Nissan Pro-4X Transfer Case Skid Plate
(#454) Painted OEM Radiator Skid Plate
(#463) P&P Front Recovery Points
(#996) Bond Mini D-Handle Shovel
(#1011) X-Bull Recovery Boards
(#1075) Genuine Nissan Pro-4X Fuel Tank Skid Plate
(#1081) 4-Way Air-Up/Down Equalizer
(#1133) Midland MXT-275 GMRS Radio

LIGHTING RELATED
(#018 Phillips White Vision LED Reverse Bulbs
(#018) UtiliTrack Bed LED Lights
(#066) LED Footwell and Under-Seat Display Lights
(#455 / #456 / #553) Custom External Reservoir LED Accent Lamps
(#933) Remote Timed Bed LED Light Switches
(#1188) LED Rear Door Step Lights
(#1205) Akkon LED Projector DRL Headlights
(#1215) Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro Frontier Fog Lamp Kit
(#1271) Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro Off-Road Lamps
(#1274) Diode Dynamics Interior LED Conversion Kit

ENGINE AREA / UNDER HOOD STUFF
(#006) Stant Locking Gas Cap
(#105) Mitsuba SH-1/SL-1 Truck Horns
(#122) Engine Block Ground Replacement Cable
(#496) Off-Road Gorilla Hood Strut Kit
(#1122 / #1126 / #1130 / #1131) Under-Hood Wiring Revisions
(#1130) InstallGear 200amp ANL Fuse Holder
(#1130) 2-AWG Auxilliary Power Cables
(#1130) EFX 4-Way Power Distribution Block
(#1131) Deutsch DT Series Custom Connectors
(#1220) Auxbeam AR-800 Bluetooth Switch Panel
(#1266) Interstate MTX-35 AGM Battery

TRIMMING FOR TIRE CLEARANCE POSTS
(#152) Trimming Fenders For Tire Clearance (Part 1)
(#169) Trimming the Front Lip For Tire Clearance (Part 2)
(#171) Trimming the Fender Liners For Tire Clearance (Part 3)
(#177) Trimming the Splash Guards For Tire Clearance (Part 4)

CUSTOM MODS & MISC INSTALLS
(#014) Custom Power Tailgate Lock Mod
(#454) Painted OEM Radiator Skid Plate
(#455 / #456) Custom External Mounts for King Reservoirs
(#634) System Refresh, Cable Management (Day 1)
(#641) System Refresh, Upholstered A/V Panels (Day 2)
(#642) System Refresh, New Rear Fill Amplifier (Day 3)
(#643) System Refresh, Bass Controller + Voltmeter (Day 4)
(#644) System Refresh, Reinstalling Everything (Day 5)
(#696) Custom Speaker Pod Fabrication (Part 1)
(#701) Custom Tweeter Pod Finishing and Install (Part 2)
(#847) Custom Mounted JL TWK-88 Control Knob and LED
(#940) Custom Rear Seat USB Charging Ports
(#1029) Air Comp Project, Part 1: Viair Hard Case Mod
(#1105) Air Comp Project, Part 2: Air By Numbers
(#1130) Blue Sea Interior Fuse Panel
(#1136) Custom GMRS Radio Plug
(#1146) Custom Nagoya GMRS Antenna Install
(#1210) Self Control: OEM-style DRL Switch

BUILD THREAD HOW-TO’S
(#013) How-To Relocate the Trailer Plug
(#018) How-To Delete the Trailer Plug Bracket
(#067) How-To Do the Rear Axle Vent / Diff Breather Mod
(#072) How-To Swap to Navara Emblems
(#173) How-To Install or Swap Fog Lamps
(#328) How-To Swap to a Genuine Nissan Rogue Key
(#328) How-To Program Your New Rogue/Switchblade Key Remote
(#411) How-To Swap to a Nissan "Switchblade" Flip Key
(#536) How-To Install the EZ-Down Tailgate Damper Kit
(#565) How-To Program an OEM Nissan Tire Pressure Sensor (TPMS)
(#750) How-To Aim Your Frontier Headlamps the Correct Way
(#937) How-To Install OEM Nissan Rope Hooks (w/added Security)
(#1195) How-To: Front Seat Cushion Lift Mod
(#1274) How-To: Diode Dynamics Interior LED Conversion Kit

TRIPS AND OTHER STUFF
(#004) The First Day Home
(#021) Mountain Biking at M-Trail, Riverside, CA
(#068) Getting Lost in Cleghorn Ridge, San Bernardino Mountains, CA
(#073) Mountain Biking at Snow Summit, Big Bear, CA
(#079) Camping in Cleveland National Forest, CA
(#088) Azusa Canyon OHV Exploring, San Gabriel Canyon, CA
(#108) Return to Cleghorn Ridge, San Bernardino Mountains, CA
(#123) Mountain Biking at Marshall Canyon, La Verne, CA
(#140) Some Photos Before the Rain at Pomona, CA
(#162) Lytle Creek Afternoon Trail Run, San Bernardino Mountains, CA
(#207) Return to Azusa OHV with New Suspension, San Gabriel Canyon, CA
(#235) King Shocks Suspension Down Travel Notes
(#263) Silverwood Trail Run, San Bernardino, CA
(#797) My Truck on the White Rhino Fabrication Website
(#936) Update: Rear Axle Vent Mod, 5 Years Later (?)
(#1063) Sort-of Normal: First Trail Run in 2021, San Bernardino, CA

OTHER THINGS THAT TOOK SOME TRUCK MONEY
(#375) 2016 Commencal Meta V4 Mountain Bike
(#520) 2018 Commencal Supreme SX
(#861) 2019 Commencal Meta Power 29

EOL / ARCHIVED
(#006) OEM Nissan Wheel Lock Set
(#006) OEM Genuine Nissan Side Step Rails
(#008) Rocky Mounts Clutch SD Bike Mounts
(#011) How-To: Custom Center Dash Phone Holder
(#012) Audio Control Epicenter Processor
(#012) JL Audio XD300/1v2 Mono Amplifier
(#012) Kicker C10 Subwoofers x2
(#012) ASC Prefab Dual Subwoofer Enclosure
(#018) LED Interior Bulbs
(#018) Phillips Crystal Vision Headlamp Bulbs
(#018) Phillips Crystal Vision Fog Lamp Bulbs
(#021) Pipeline Rail Rack Bike Holder
(#022) Alpine RUX Control Knob
(#042) Image Dynamics CXS v.2 6.5” Components
(#042) Custom Upper Dash Speaker Mounts
(#043) Kenwood Excelon DNX-892 Navigation Head Unit
(#043) Amazon Fire TV
(#043) Forward Facing Camera
(#061) MiniDSP DSP 2-Channel Processor
(#061) MiniDC Regulated Power Supply
(#078) Midland 75-822 In-Cabin/Handheld CB Radio
(#080) Firestik NGP Custom OEM Location Install
(#095) Fabricated Custom Mounting Base for Firestik NGP CB Antenna
(#109) Blue Sea Systems 6-Circuit ST-Blade Fuse Block
(#113) OEM Genuine Nissan Xterra "Off-Road Lamps" Switch
(#114) White Rhino Fabrication Light Bar
(#118) PIAA 520 ATP 6” Off-Road Lamps
(#131) BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 Tires
(#141) Quickie Firestik Antenna Shrink Mod
(#173) Morimoto XB Type-S LED Projector Fog Lamps
(#173) Lamin-X Yellow Fog Lamp Overlays
(#185) Total Chaos Upper Control Arms
(#241) Remote HDMI+USB Connector
(#303) White Knuckle Off-Road DOM Steel Rock Sliders
(#305) Hi-Tech Industries GT-5000 Traction Tape
(#425) Pyle PLCM38FRV "Shuttle Camera"
(#426) PIAA 520 ATP Custom Wire Wrap
(#431) Rigid Industries D-Series LED Driving Lamps
(#485) Kenwood KAC-M3004 2-Channel Amplifier
(#595) Interstate 640 CCA Battery
(#643) CT Sounds Universal Bass Knob w/Voltmeter
(#747) Katana LED Headlamp Bulb Upgrade
(#901) Hankook DynaPro AT-M (RF10) Tires
(#1018) Baofeng UV-5RTP FM Radio
(#1111) Custom iPad Pro + GMRS Radio Mount
(#1132) Auxbeam BA-80 8-Gang Control Panel
 
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#1,130 · (Edited)
Short-er Circuits, Part 3 (10.25.2021)
With the old wiring out, the next step was to mount the new main components and main power wiring in their respective locations - I can't wire up all of the accessories if I don't have these components installed first... so pretty much what this diagram is showing is what I planned to do today:



Bought a bunch of stuff because it's what happens when you do projects, including but not limited to what's pictured below:



Coming off the battery, I found that there was enough room on the battery tray to mount the InstallGear ANL fuse holder:



Larger 2-AWG cable ready to attach to the battery terminal bolt:




The ANL fuse holder fits perfectly here. I chose this location so that the fuse holder was initially out of sight (compared to the old location on top of the engine bay fuse box), but at the same time was easily accessed if needed:



Now on to the EFX 4-way distribution block. This one took longer than expected, mostly because I could not find a place along the left-inner fender area where I initially wanted to position it. However, after taking a break for lunch, suddenly I decided on a new location and a test fit confirmed the new idea. To mount the distribution block, I had to fab up a stainless steel metal plate that I bent into shape:



Made the power cable connections (2 shown here). All power cables were wrapped in split-loom for protection and stealth, with heat shrink on the ends:



...and bolted the mounting plate (with EFX distribution block attached) to the chassis, just in between the air filter box and left headlamp. Again, this mounting spot meant that initially, the distribution block was out of plain sight - yet easily accessible when needed:



With the EFX distribution block in place, I connected the main power cable from the battery, the Auxbeam power cable, the Alpine PDX-V9 power cable, and the third power cable for the Blue Sea fuse block. Speaking of - on to the inside, to install the new Blue Sea Systems 4-terminal fuse block. I also made a custom mounting plate for this, using scrap plastic that had a 90-degree angle to it:



...which allowed me to attach the mounting plate to the HVAC enclosure. This location (if you can't tell at first glance) is actually behind the lower glove box - again, initially out of sight. However, I can drop the glove box easily without any tools (the same method as when changing the cabin filter) and I get instant access to this fuse block. You can also kinda see the 8-AWG cable connected at the top, which comes from the EFX distribution block:





(TO BE CONTINUED)

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This can also be seen at project:KEIRA
 
#1,131 · (Edited)
Short-er Circuits, Part 4 (10.26.2021)
Got a lot of the wiring revisions done right before Thanksgiving... thanks to discovering something pretty sweet that was the perfect "ingredient" for this project. But first, we must, of course, buy some more electrical items (the wallet is not happy with me, but it is what it is):



Had to do some prelim diode soldering , pretty basic stuff really:



Testing the wiring lengths to connect to the Auxbeam relay module. The right side was twisted first, then each wire was connected afterward; then I did the left side in reverse by connecting each wire first, then twisting them together afterward. I like the left side better:



As for that "ingredient" I mentioned earlier, it was this: Deutsch DT Series Connectors! While browsing for electrical parts, I discovered these OEM-type high-quality connectors, and they actually fit perfectly with what I wanted to do with the wiring revisions! I ended up buying a 152-piece set:



When the DT plug kit arrived, I took a look at the parts and incorporated them into my wiring scheme with specific groups to make future additions organized and easy:



Prepping the wire ends, this took time to get all of the pin connectors onto each wire, but the job itself was easy and not difficult at all (just repetitive!):



Some clicking and some snapping next, and we have organized, OEM-looking wiring harnesses assembled. I wanted to incorporate plugs into the rewire so that it would be much easier to add more electronics and/or upgrade certain things without having to do the wire strip-and-splice method that people usually do when adding on things after the initial installation:



The DT plugs are double-sealed to be waterproof, and connect together with a very satisfying feel:



After about 2 evenings of revising the wiring after hours (I usually went into the garage around 10 pm and did whatever I could until 2 am), I finally finished the main re-wiring project and the end result was fewer wires, a much cleaner engine bay, and an easier path to adding more electronics in the future. The only hint from the outside is if you see the Auxbeam relay module that sits behind the front grill:



BONUS PICS:
...look at all of the existing wiring that I got to get rid of when switching to the Auxbeam relay panel:


...and of course, all of the extra wiring loom as well that was removed:


...I did manage to salvage some good components, probably going to sell them since they still work:


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This can also be seen at project:KEIRA
 
#1,132 · (Edited)
(Aux) Beam Me Up - Auxbeam 8-Gang Control Panel (10.28.2021)
It took 3 seconds to order this on Amazon.com but over 3 months before I got around to installing it, after 3 weeks of first revising/rewiring the bulk of my truck’s electronic accessories (not including the audio equipment). What’s with the number 3? Nothing, it’s just a coincidence… but anyhow here it is – the next mod, the Auxbeam dedicated controller (8-gang version in blue):

Here’s what comes in the box… the control panel was a lot nicer than I had expected, with a metal casing and soft-touch membrane buttons. The included circuit breaker will not be used:

It took a while for me to decide where to mount the main relay module under the hood. I tried finding a location on the left side of the engine bay but there wasn’t any accessible room. I didn’t want to put the module where my original Blue Sea fuse block was either since part of this mod was to reduce overall wire length. Finally, after some brainstorming, I found a spot just behind the grille, on the left side next to the left headlamp. I used some cardboard to mock-up a mounting plate first to see if it would work – and there was enough room after all! This spot used to be where I mounted the Mitsuba horns, which in the photo below can now be seen relocated down lower behind the bumper cover (and closer to the ground to radiate more sound):



Here’s the new main fuse holder, mounted in a discrete location next to the battery:

Only 1 “extra” cable attached to the battery post now (there used to be 3!):\

New EFX 4-way distribution block mounted on a custom panel, right in front of the OEM air filter box:

Deutsch DT Series Connectors used for organization and cleaner connections:

Here’s the Auxbeam control panel mounted to the side of the center console in the interior. This will stay here for now, I don’t mind it being a little non-visible since it draws less attention from parking lot passers-by.

So after a long 3 weeks in total revising the wiring after hours (I usually went into the garage around 10 pm and did whatever I could until I felt like it), I finally finished the re-wiring project and the end result was fewer wires, a much cleaner engine bay, and an easier path to adding more electronics in the future. I’ll think about how to create custom labels for the buttons, but that’s for another day (and another project!) That said, mission: accomplished!
  • Installed new InstallGear main fuse holder
  • Installed new EFX 4-way distribution block to chassis with custom mounting plate
  • Installed new 2-AWG main power cable
  • Installed new 8-AWG power cable to the interior
  • Connected existing 4-AWG power cable from Alpine PDX-V9 amp to EFX
  • Connected power cable for Auxbeam relay module
  • Installed new interior-mounted Blue Sea Systems fuse block with custom mounting plate
  • Connected power cable from Blue Sea to JL Audio TWK-88 DSP
  • Connected power cables from Blue Sea to Soundstream rear amp
  • Installed control wire for Auxbeam relay module
  • Soldered diode harness for OEM integration
  • Installed new Speedwire from left side engine bay through the firewall (interior)
  • Installed new Speedwire in left door sill from A-pillar to C-pillar
  • Assembled Auxbeam channel 1-4 DT plug harness
  • Assembled Auxbeam channel 5-7 DT plug harness
  • Assembled Auxbeam channel 8 + trigger wire DT plug harness
  • Assembled DT plug harness to Rigid Industries and PIAA lamps
  • Assembled DT plug harness to King LEDs, floor LEDs, and bed LEDs
  • Assembled DT plug harness for future channels 3, 4, and 8
  • Created DT harness for future dashcam integration
  • Triple-checked all wiring connections before power-on
  • Installed Auxbeam switch panel and connected panel to relay module
  • Tested all functions (woohoo!)
  • Reinstalled grill, all interior trim
The Auxbeam install was just part of a larger revision/re-wiring job. I did not remove any accessories but at the same time, now I am ready to add a few more with zero issues thanks to the centralized Auxbeam relay module and the DT plugs I have ready when need them. The wiring is now pretty simple and much more organized. This was a long but really satisfying project, I am happy with the results!

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This can also be seen at project:KEIRA
 
#1,133 ·
Radio Permanente - Midland MXT-275 Custom Install, Part 1 (11.13.2021)
At the end of my iPad custom mounting post, I said, “…as soon as I finished this mod, I saw this and the gears started turning again:



…but we’ll save this idea for another day.” Well, today is that day LOL

After the last mod and having time to dwell on it, I realized that I wasn’t quite happy with the end result. It’s not that there was anything functionally wrong with the setup, but it was cumbersome. So I thought about how I could further revise and (hopefully) streamline my off-road comms, and I came up with some targets for the revision:

  1. A more “permanent” GMRS radio would probably be better, for fewer things to bring in and out of the vehicle;
  2. If I get an FCC Part 95 type certified GMRS unit, then I’ll be legal (along with my valid GMRS license);
  3. Stick with the “hidden” theme, for less outside attention;
  4. Quicker setup, less steps to get the GMRS on and ready;
  5. Somehow bring the iPad mount even closer to the driver’s side of the vehicle.
After looking at what was available and watching a lot of product reviews, I decided that the Midland MXT275 GMRS 2-way Radio had the right combination of features I needed. Thanks to some excellent CSI on the Internet, I came across a 25% coupon code that was still valid for use on the Midland USA’s online store, so I took full advantage of the situation and within 4 days this showed up on my doorstep:



First good feature: I bought the updated version with a USB-C port, as opposed to the older USB-A port; this meant that I could power my iPad Pro directly from the Midland unit instead of the current USB-C cable that I have running all the way to the USB charger in my center console. Second good feature: all of the radio’s controls (including the power button) are on the handheld mic itself. Third good feature: I can mount the main radio unit somewhere hidden and not have to worry about direct access. Fourth good feature: The detachable radio mic uses a standard CAT-5 connector… which gave me another custom add-on idea for the install (more on this later).

Here’s the radio bits out of the box, the main unit is nice and compact:



…and it’s installation time. I removed the center mounting arm (no longer needed since the iPad mount would go onto the left-side arm) and in its place, I installed the MXT275’s quick-release bracket (note: photo below shows the glove box upside down):



Next, I ran the cables out of the rear of the upper glove box through an access hole I cut in the rear-corner:



…and in less than 30 minutes (including cutting some strategically-shaped foam pieces to use as trim) I had the main radio unit installed. Here you can also see the 90-degree CAT-5 extension cable I used on the left-side port, and the USB-C plug on the right-side that will provide direct power to my iPad Pro:



That 90-degree CAT-5 extension cable leads… to the next mod, which will be in the next post =)

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This can also be seen at project:KEIRA
 
#1,136 ·
Mic Check - Midland MXT-275 Custom Install, Part 2 (12.08.2021)
In part 1 I installed the actual radio itself in the upper glove box. For part 2 I wanted to add a feature that added stealth and convenience: One of the features about the Midland MXT275 GMRS radio that caught my eye was that the main control/handheld speaker mic unit was detachable via a standard CAT-5 connector on the end of the cord. This meant that when not in use, I could easily unplug it and store it out of sight (just like how I could just close the upper glove box to keep the MTX275 radio body out of sight). Of course, as is if I wanted to use the radio I would have to open the glove box each time to plug in the speaker mic.

Some may have noticed that during the main MXT275 install I used a 90-degree CAT-5 extension cable, and this is why: I knew that part 2 of the radio install was going to be a custom externally accessible CAT-5 port. I decided that the perfect spot for this external port would be where the OEM 12v cigarette lighter socket was in the lower position of the center console. Of course – I ran into a small problem with this idea immediately: the only CAT-5 extension I could find suitable for this mod that would match my dash USB ports had a squared bezel… but the center console dash receptacle openings were round:



It was time for some DIY. First, using my trusty Dremel I started hacking away at the single USB port extension pictured above; however halfway through I stopped when I realized that the dual USB version of the USB port extension was almost the right “square” shape inside, and I wouldn’t have to file and mod so much plastic to get the CAT-5 socket to fit. So with that in mind, I tossed the single USB extension and restarted with the dual USB instead, removing the two USB port hardware first to get to just the round housing:



…then after removing the two metal USB shells, I hand carved the center out of the round receptacle using some side cutters, an X-Acto knife, and a lot of patience. After about 20-minutes carefully working on it, I got it to where the square-shaped CAT-5 metal socket fit right in with a very snug yet practically perfect fitment; I was very happy with how this portion of the mod turned out:



…however, I could no longer use the mounting rings to attach the socket to my dash, because look at the backside:



…but no problem, since the back of the center console panel would be non-visible, I decided to secure the custom CAT-5 plug in place (very secure!) with my handy hot glue gun and a generous amount of glue:



After letting the glue cool down and making sure everything was in the right place, here is how it ended up looking in the dash panel – matching with the aux USB port just above it:



…and back in the vehicle, all buttoned up. To use the Midland XT275 I just have to plug the microphone’s CAT-5 cable into the socket, and it’s ready to roll! If I’m only using the radio (and not the iPad mount) I don’t have to open the upper glove box door at all, keeping it stealth as a result:



The next job to do is also is the final part of this radio upgrade: where to put the antenna. That will be in the next mod post =)

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This can also be seen at project:KEIRA
 
#1,138 ·
Per specs, channels 1-2 can handle up to 30A. Channels 3-4 are rated at 20A, 5-6 rated at 10A, 7-8- rated at 5A. However in total it says maximum 60A combined (kinda confusing) for current running directly through the unit and through the internal relays. The wiring is on the thinner side, not meant for heavy loads but I think this is mainly meant for controlling aux. LED lighting. The two highest drawing accessories I have wired in are my PIAA 520's, which have an 85w bulb but only draw about 6 amps, and the Rigid Industries LED fogs draw less than 2A... so no problem there.

However for higher loads above 30A, I'm thinking you could always run a larger external relay directly from the battery (standard relay wiring harness install) and just use the Auxbeam output as a trigger for the same effect.
 
#1,140 ·
i like the idea of cleaning up the wiring system up and tying everything together.
This is pretty much the exact reason why I ended up buying mine.
 
#1,145 ·
Exactly that; I just cut about 3 inches down from the plug, extended the wires to reach the center dash, soldered the plug back on, and relocated the switch itself.
 
#1,146 ·
No Ugly Magnet Mounts Here, Buddy - Midland MXT-275 Custom Install, Part 3 (02.03.2022)
So here we are, with part 1 (installing the main radio unit) and part 2 (custom handset plug) done, and now it was time to do the third and final part of this Midland MXT-275 project: the antenna. The antenna included with the MXT-275 was a basic magnet-mount style antenna, which though convenient for most, looks too “temporary”. Those who have followed my build will have noticed that many times I try to keep things looking OEM or I try to hide the mods in a way that they either disappear, blend in, or function like it was OEM, and the GMRS antenna was a perfect opportunity to do some custom DIY again.

To start, I ditched the short Midland antenna for this: a genuine Nagoya model #UT-72 High-Gain Dual-Band Antenna with Magnetic Mount:


The UT-72 is a well recommended 20″ antenna that is compatible with the GMRS frequency range and features a spring-loaded removable mast, long 4-meter cable, and… a large magnetic mount. However – that large (and heavy) magnetic base was the first to go in the trash because the only part I was concerned with was the antenna coupling itself:


If you haven’t guessed it by now, let’s rewind: a long time ago I custom installed a Firestik NGP antenna in the OEM FM antenna’s location. That CB antenna mod has long since been removed, but the idea was not lost, because after some brainstorming about this GMRS antenna I realized that the only mod I would be happy doing was to custom install the GMRS antenna in the exact same location! With the plan in my head, the mod was reduced to only three items – the Nagoya coupler, a spare OEM Nissan antenna base, and an extra OEM Nissan antenna cover, as shown here:


Unlike the previous CB antenna mod, due to the fact that the Nagoya coupler and antenna were a lot smaller (and a lot lighter) compared to the old Firestik antenna, I wouldn’t have to custom fab a bracket from scratch as I did with the CB antenna. Instead, I determined that I could mod the OEM antenna base in order to mount the Nagoya antenna coupler onto it. This turned out to be a lot easier than I imagined; I started by using my trusty Dremel to chop off the top part of the OEM antenna to compensate for the Nagoya coupler:


…I then tapped and threaded the Nagoya coupler in place. Doing it this way did two things – it gave the Nagoya antenna a solid, secure bolt-on mount, and it made sure that the actual angle of the antenna mast would match that of the OEM antenna it was replacing:


Here’s a photo showing the modded OEM antenna base (on the left) next to the OEM antenna base (still mounted to the chassis, on the right) during fitment testing:


After swapping the antenna bases, it turned out that the Nagoya coupler’s square outer shape was getting in the way of the OEM cowl trim and antenna cover, so I carefully reshaped the plastic portion to a more compatible round profile. After that, I reinforced the mount by adding some epoxy clay/putty to secure the Nagoya coupler to the OEM antenna base (not sure why it looks like that in the photo, but the white/grey stuff at the bottom is epoxy). This rounded shape allowed for the cowl to be reinstalled correctly:


The antenna cable was secured to the inside of the cowl and I ran the cable to the left side of the engine bay, to exit out of the factory wiper harness grommet, eventually going through the firewall on the driver’s side:


Inside the cabin, the Nagoya antenna cable was connected to the Midland radio cable just below the driver’s side knee panel, for easy access just in case:


Mod completed! Just like back in July of 2015, I completed a new antenna mod… except for this time instead of CB it was now GMRS! The shorter, thinner GMRS antenna kept the OEM look much better than the thicker CB antenna before it. Here’s what the chunky CB antenna mod looked like 6 years ago:


…and here’s what the new GMRS antenna looks like now – it has that aftermarket “shorter antenna” feel:


I live in suburbia so I have yet had a chance to test long-range communications with the new setup (hopefully soon!), but during a caravan trip the shorter range transmissions (within a 1-mile distance between vehicles on open freeway) were nice and clear and static-free.
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This can also be seen at project:KEIRA
 
#1,147 ·
Nicely done, very clean install.
 
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#1,154 ·
GMRS, like HAM antenna like to be mounted higher up for range, but also radiating output, be wary no one touches that antenna when transmitting, especially in the repeater channels. I’ve seen comments on forums of range issues with then antenna low on the vehicle, there are low profile GMRS antenna like the shorty HAM antenna now. But I’ve seen a few comments on HAM forum of range issues with the antenna mounted too low.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#1,155 ·
I was wondering about that, and also the ground-plane question, transmitters like best to have a large flat steel area on all sides, if I'm recalling my propagation theory physics correctly.
 
#1,156 ·
For basic inter-vehicle communications for vehicles traveling together, I don't see it being a problem if the ground plane isn't ideal.

I had days I was able to talk with other operators that were more than 50 miles away with a 5W radio on 2m, on an HT, not even a mobile rig. A friend of mine in California was once able to talk with an operator in Hawaii during a particularly weird weather day when the skip-wave propagation was especially strong, but that sort of thing is the exception rather than the rule. I think of 2m and 70cm as local area bands, anything beyond that is just gravy.

I think of GMRS the same way, it's for inter-vehicle communications or vehicle to spotter communications, not for deep, meaningful conversation at distance. It works well when people are in the same basic area.
 
#1,160 ·
I had my ham antenna on the RR corner of my truck on the bed rail when I had a roll up bed cover. I always got 5 by 5 reports when I'd ask and I never had issues in groups or reaching repeaters. Now that I have a topper I have it mounted on my driver's side ditch light bracket and still get the same performance. One needs to work within the realities of the shape and layout of a vehicle and also consider how it looks.
 
#1,167 · (Edited)
Not a mod or how-to this time, just some maintenance done last weekend and I decided to take a few pics :D

Serpentine Belt and Tensioner Replacement
I had a squeaky noise from the engine bay pop up recently, thought it was just the weather - but diagnosis with the aid of some belt dressing and engine cleaner determined it was most likely the tensioner pulley bearing. A visual check of the serpentine belt showed enough wear and tear as well, so the first step was to order new OEM parts for the job:

1x 11720-EA200 Genuine Nissan Serpentine Belt, $43.24
1x 11955-EA20B Genuine Nissan Serpentine Tensioner, $62.78
TOTAL (including tax + shipping) $119.11

Parts ready:


The actual procedure wasn't that difficult at all. After removing the top engine cover/intake pipe, I had access to the serpentine belt and tensioner. After first carefully removing the serpentine belt from the pulley (to relieve any tension), removing the tensioner was done rather quickly with a long reach 14mm combination wrench (no room for a socket here). With the tensioner removed, turned out that the original pulley did have that "crunchy" feel when I spun it slowly by hand - a typical sign of a failed bearing:


...also, the actual pulley surface was concave and worn down to almost a polished surface - yup, there was belt slippage here:


Comparing the new belt to the old belt: the old belt's top surface was worn down, and the underside had cracks and chips:


Installing the new parts was just a simple reverse procedure of removal. It took me about 40 minutes in total, no rushing:



We should be good for another 70k miles :)(y)
 
#1,170 ·
new website looks great. I, too, went to it and it didn't work. I was worried for a bit. Such a great resource for plagiarism.

Question for you. You moved your phone and tablet mount into the upper dash and stopped using the floor ram mount.

Did you ever try it out to see how it worked? I know you said that you didn't want the post sticking up permanently, but those ram mounts are pretty easy to remove and to do so quickly. Did you consider leaving the floor mount and just removing the post when not in use?

I'm tempted to buy that mount. Glove box space is sparce and I'm a little aprehensive about drilling holes into my brand new dash. Although I am considering some of those base/bracket systems that go in that recessed box on top of the dash.
 
#1,171 ·
  • "new" website isn't really what it's supposed to look like, it's a temporary theme until I can find a new one since the old one somehow isn't working anymore.
  • "stopped using the floor RAM mount" is incorrect... it's actually: "I never used the floor RAM mount"... aside from a quick test fit to see how it would be. I stopped considering it when I went with the upper glovebox mount idea instead.
 
#1,172 · (Edited)


WAIT: What Happened to the Website? (02.26.2022)
Long story short… sometime on February 26th, 2022 the WordPress theme I was using for the project: KEIRA website decided to break.

After trying to troubleshoot the situation (and even going as far as to have my hosting try to do a restore from their own remote backup), the website content was restored but there were still parts of the theme that weren’t working at all. I spent the entire evening trying to fix it, I even tried a clean install of the theme and it’s just not working right anymore. So, I have decided to stop trying to get the old theme working and try a new theme – which as a side effect will give the website a nice makeover in the process. So for a temporary period of time, while I’m working on that, the default theme will just be simple and plain. I’ll start working on the new theme in a few days. Hopefully, it doesn’t take too long and the website can have a nice appearance once more.
 
#1,175 ·
I was looking through your install of the Auxbeam. Why did you add diodes? Are you expecting power from the other end of the cable and you're trying to keep it from the Auxbeam system? You say you added it for OEM integration, but you don't expand any further.

Edited to add: Also, given your diligence...where did you end up mounting the control box?

Thanks for your time.
 
#1,176 ·
I used diode "tricks" to add a few other small features to my lighting setup:
  • Keep the fog lamps from turning off when the high beams are on, but the high beams on won't automatically turn on if the fog lamps on;
  • Keep the fog lamp and high beam on/off controls independent of each other;
  • Ability to turn the fog lamps on and off by themselves without requiring parking lights or head lights to be on;
  • Turn the PIAA spot lamps on if the high beams are on automatically;
  • Keep the PIAA spot lamps and high beam on/off controls independent of each other;
  • Turn the bed LEDs on in conjunction with the rear dome lights, but not the other way around if I press my bedside light switches;
The Auxbeam control box is still mounted to the side of the center floor console. It doesn't bother me there, so for now it stays there :)
 
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