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Discussion Starter #121 (Edited)
Love the look of those lights on your truck. Giving me the itch to get some driving lights on my truck. I had a set on my last vehicle and i miss that extra output on back roads around here.
I've always liked the round off-road light look (especially for trucks) compared to the newer style LED cubes or long rectangle bars. I know the LEDs are brighter, but I don't like the look. I really don't actually use the lamps every day, but I'll see them bolted to my truck every day... if that makes sense. Plus I'm fine with the added output (I added the comparison photo below to the original post)



It's brighter in person than in the photo, it's hard to take good pics of light output. For reference if I used he high beams instead of the PIAAs, it seems like the high beams are 1/2 as bright as the PIAAs, and not as focused forward as the PIAAs.

Raine, great lights! I'm looking to do something similar with a set of Hella fogs that I already have, and possibly add a pair of the same PIAA All Terrains, on two separate circuits, of course.

Could you take a photo of how your Blue Sea block looks like now with the PIAA wires attached? I assume that the wire from relay to the battery is now routed to the BS block, while the rest is fairly standard, routing from the PIAA relay to ground, lights, and dashboard switch?

Thanks.
Actually the last photo in the Blue Sea post shows it (I actually took that pic after PIAA install):


The six wires connected to the left side of the Blue Sea fuse block are(top to bottom):
black 1 - Mitsuba horn relay ground -
black 2 - PIAA lamp ground -
black 3 - PIAA relay ground -
red 1 - Mitsuba horn relay 12v+
white 1 - PIAA relay 12v+
white 2 - Xterra switch 12v+
 

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How much of a pain was it to relocate the VDC to the center switch panel? I am thinking about trying to find a way to eliminate the sonar noise switch, move the VDC there, then do the xterra switch mod, next to the cargo light, so it still looks stock, w/o having to cut the dash anywhere. Your thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #125
How much of a pain was it to relocate the VDC to the center switch panel? I am thinking about trying to find a way to eliminate the sonar noise switch, move the VDC there, then do the xterra switch mod, next to the cargo light, so it still looks stock, w/o having to cut the dash anywhere. Your thoughts?
Not a pain at all, it was super simple. The VDC switch is a simple 4-wire toggle (power, ground, signal, illum.) and all I did was cut the harness about 3 inches from the plug, soldered a 4-wire extension to reach the center switch area, then soldered the plug back onto the new wires.

As for the Sonar switch, personally I use mine every time I drop the tailgate when transporting my mountain bike; but if I had to, personally I would not eliminate it, I would relocate it the same way I relocated the VDC switch - by extending the switch wires, since it is basically a simple toggle switch just like the VDC.

As for location, I'd put it in the center console under the armrest, near the factory USB port. That way it's still usable and accessible from the driver's seat, and you get that free spot back up front to put the Xterra switch.
 

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Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.... I'm looking long and hard at those piaas. WRF bar should be here Thursday, hopefully get it sanded, primed, and painted by the weekend, and buy lights for new year's. Since you and I have the same bar and front end, how much depth is there between the light mount points and the front bumper....2-3" or so more or less? I might actually build a wiring harness extender so that way I don't have to cut it. (Not scared...ipc610,620 & jstd001 certified) just don't want to cut if I can get samtec to send me what I need for free. Like the idea of relocating the sonar to the console. Also thought of purchasing that left side console plastic (where the vdc is located now) and making a 3rd opening for the switch there
 

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Discussion Starter #127 (Edited)
Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.... I'm looking long and hard at those piaas. WRF bar should be here Thursday, hopefully get it sanded, primed, and painted by the weekend, and buy lights for new year's. Since you and I have the same bar and front end, how much depth is there between the light mount points and the front bumper....2-3" or so more or less? I might actually build a wiring harness extender so that way I don't have to cut it. (Not scared...ipc610,620 & jstd001 certified) just don't want to cut if I can get samtec to send me what I need for free. Like the idea of relocating the sonar to the console. Also thought of purchasing that left side console plastic (where the vdc is located now) and making a 3rd opening for the switch there
Before you work on the bar make sure it is the correct one, the first bar they sent me was the shorter version for the pre-09 models. As for depth, not much:



If you look closely you can see the black PIAA mounting brackets I installed during the test fitment. They're pretty close, which does limit the types of lamps you can install.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
You mentioned the PIAA's are an "all terrain" beam. What is you opinion now that you have them on the truck?
I like them, especially on long stretches of highway where there's no street lights. Obviously the overall light output of a halogen isn't as bright as an LED-type lamp, but I like how the PIAAs are focused straight ahead on the road. as far as brightness, I think I kind of described it in the PIAA post... basically, if 1x light brightness is low beam, and 2x light brightness is high beam, then the PIAAs are 3x.
 

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Sweet! I like the silver bolts, gives it some depth, but that's just my opinion.

If you have a chance, would be neat to see a pic straight on to see how noticeable the 36mm offset change is on your truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #138 (Edited)
Sweet! I like the silver bolts, gives it some depth, but that's just my opinion.

If you have a chance, would be neat to see a pic straight on to see how noticeable the 36mm offset change is on your truck.
I might have a pic like that for the next post, I have to just edit the pics then I'll have them up shortly.

Looks great. I'm kind of liking the blacked out look on the rings. It's different than all the trucks you see with that style rim.
I liked the all black version at first, especially during the daytime when you can see all the little details of the wheels; but then I noticed at night that it's almost too dark and everything just becomes one giant black donut... meaning the black tires, black rash rings, black ring bolts, black looking (at night) wheels. Not that I have anything against donuts, but I'm not really a fan of the "murdered out" look either. I ended up putting the silver bolts on all four wheels, though I'm keeping the black bolts in case I want to change it up later.

jesus i need those wheels.
duwit. >:D

Good looking truck! I'm curious if you have any pics of those wheels with the rock rings off? I really want to know what they look like then.
I don't have pics like that, but in the Level 8 Bully Pro 6 thread the first promo image has no rings, and one guy had a pic of the wheels on his truck without the rings installed yet... it's just a standard lip with a series of threaded holes around the circumference. IMO having the rings bolted on is part of what makes the Bully Pro 6 look good. Oh and FYI: the bolt holes are through and through, so you can actually see the tips of the bolts on the inner part of the rim if you look inside.
 
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