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Discussion Starter #121 (Edited)
Love the look of those lights on your truck. Giving me the itch to get some driving lights on my truck. I had a set on my last vehicle and i miss that extra output on back roads around here.
I've always liked the round off-road light look (especially for trucks) compared to the newer style LED cubes or long rectangle bars. I know the LEDs are brighter, but I don't like the look. I really don't actually use the lamps every day, but I'll see them bolted to my truck every day... if that makes sense. Plus I'm fine with the added output (I added the comparison photo below to the original post)



It's brighter in person than in the photo, it's hard to take good pics of light output. For reference if I used he high beams instead of the PIAAs, it seems like the high beams are 1/2 as bright as the PIAAs, and not as focused forward as the PIAAs.

Raine, great lights! I'm looking to do something similar with a set of Hella fogs that I already have, and possibly add a pair of the same PIAA All Terrains, on two separate circuits, of course.

Could you take a photo of how your Blue Sea block looks like now with the PIAA wires attached? I assume that the wire from relay to the battery is now routed to the BS block, while the rest is fairly standard, routing from the PIAA relay to ground, lights, and dashboard switch?

Thanks.
Actually the last photo in the Blue Sea post shows it (I actually took that pic after PIAA install):


The six wires connected to the left side of the Blue Sea fuse block are(top to bottom):
black 1 - Mitsuba horn relay ground -
black 2 - PIAA lamp ground -
black 3 - PIAA relay ground -
red 1 - Mitsuba horn relay 12v+
white 1 - PIAA relay 12v+
white 2 - Xterra switch 12v+
 

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Discussion Starter #122 (Edited)
Ground Upgrade (10.19.15)

During an air filter change as part of regular maintenance I stumbled upon this:


Thinnest ground wire ever.

No problem, I had some extra 4-gauge power cable from my amplifier install, so I bought some ring terminals and made this:


New ground cable up top, OEM wire on the bottom. Big difference!

...and installed it. Took all but 5 minutes after the soldering iron was hot. Now the engine block has a much better ground:

Proper ground cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #123 (Edited)
Marshall Canyon MTB (10.24.15)

Went mountain biking at Marshall Canyon in La Verne, Ca using the truck to shuttle with my bike buddies. Here's a couple random pics.


Another weekend, another trip with the bikes loaded up.


This is my mountain bike, a Pivot Mach 5.7.
 

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How much of a pain was it to relocate the VDC to the center switch panel? I am thinking about trying to find a way to eliminate the sonar noise switch, move the VDC there, then do the xterra switch mod, next to the cargo light, so it still looks stock, w/o having to cut the dash anywhere. Your thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #125
How much of a pain was it to relocate the VDC to the center switch panel? I am thinking about trying to find a way to eliminate the sonar noise switch, move the VDC there, then do the xterra switch mod, next to the cargo light, so it still looks stock, w/o having to cut the dash anywhere. Your thoughts?
Not a pain at all, it was super simple. The VDC switch is a simple 4-wire toggle (power, ground, signal, illum.) and all I did was cut the harness about 3 inches from the plug, soldered a 4-wire extension to reach the center switch area, then soldered the plug back onto the new wires.

As for the Sonar switch, personally I use mine every time I drop the tailgate when transporting my mountain bike; but if I had to, personally I would not eliminate it, I would relocate it the same way I relocated the VDC switch - by extending the switch wires, since it is basically a simple toggle switch just like the VDC.

As for location, I'd put it in the center console under the armrest, near the factory USB port. That way it's still usable and accessible from the driver's seat, and you get that free spot back up front to put the Xterra switch.
 

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Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.... I'm looking long and hard at those piaas. WRF bar should be here Thursday, hopefully get it sanded, primed, and painted by the weekend, and buy lights for new year's. Since you and I have the same bar and front end, how much depth is there between the light mount points and the front bumper....2-3" or so more or less? I might actually build a wiring harness extender so that way I don't have to cut it. (Not scared...ipc610,620 & jstd001 certified) just don't want to cut if I can get samtec to send me what I need for free. Like the idea of relocating the sonar to the console. Also thought of purchasing that left side console plastic (where the vdc is located now) and making a 3rd opening for the switch there
 

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Discussion Starter #127 (Edited)
Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.... I'm looking long and hard at those piaas. WRF bar should be here Thursday, hopefully get it sanded, primed, and painted by the weekend, and buy lights for new year's. Since you and I have the same bar and front end, how much depth is there between the light mount points and the front bumper....2-3" or so more or less? I might actually build a wiring harness extender so that way I don't have to cut it. (Not scared...ipc610,620 & jstd001 certified) just don't want to cut if I can get samtec to send me what I need for free. Like the idea of relocating the sonar to the console. Also thought of purchasing that left side console plastic (where the vdc is located now) and making a 3rd opening for the switch there
Before you work on the bar make sure it is the correct one, the first bar they sent me was the shorter version for the pre-09 models. As for depth, not much:



If you look closely you can see the black PIAA mounting brackets I installed during the test fitment. They're pretty close, which does limit the types of lamps you can install.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
You mentioned the PIAA's are an "all terrain" beam. What is you opinion now that you have them on the truck?
I like them, especially on long stretches of highway where there's no street lights. Obviously the overall light output of a halogen isn't as bright as an LED-type lamp, but I like how the PIAAs are focused straight ahead on the road. as far as brightness, I think I kind of described it in the PIAA post... basically, if 1x light brightness is low beam, and 2x light brightness is high beam, then the PIAAs are 3x.
 

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Discussion Starter #130 (Edited)
Wheel and Tire Upgrade, part 1 - Level 8 Wheels Delivered (11.09.15)

I probably spent half a year deciding on what wheels to go with. 16" or 17"? High offset or low offset? You know how it goes... in the end after narrowing it down to Method Standards in 17" or the Level 8 Bully Pro 6 in 16", I chose the Bully Pro for a few good reasons (my reasons); for example, I liked the "more open" face design of the Bully Pro and how the Bully Pro wheel (due to the -6 offset) is much deeper than the Methods, which look flat and too shallow for my taste. Also, the track width would still look pretty close to stock with the Method's since they are a +25 wheel, and this is somewhat important since when i eventually do a lift a wider track width would be more ideal for safety and performance.

But the biggest reason why I went with the Bully Pros over the Methods came about when I went to the 2015 Off-Road Expo at Fairplex in Pomona, CA. There were tons of custom rigs in the parking lot and inside the fairgrounds.. it was a nice show, so many mild to wild rides. More importantly - it seemed like every 3rd truck or Jeep or FJ I saw there that weekend... had Method wheels. Hell - even my cousin has Method wheels on his FJ! Nothing against the Methods, it's just that I felt the Level 8 wheel would have more of a true aftermarket fitment and look to them.

I went ahead and ordered up a set and within a few days the delivery arrived. However I only had the wheels; I ordered some other related bits that I needed before I could actually do the install.


It's always a nice feeling when you have four brand new aftermarket wheels freshly delivered.


No tires yet, but of course I had to test fit... just to test fit.


Just waiting for the tires and some extra bits to arrive in a couple more days.
 

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Discussion Starter #131 (Edited)
Wheel and Tire Upgrade, part 2 - New BF Goodrich Tires (11.13.15)

(UPDATE 07.18.19: Tires replaced, TBA)

I received a call on a Friday afternoon from my friend who works for a wheel company that my tires arrived, so I brought the Level 8 wheels over that same evening so we can mount them up. I did have a long debate about tire brand and tire size (just like with the wheels) but in the end I went with a set of five BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2's in a 265/75-16.


BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2's arrived at my buddy's shop, ready to install.


Went with 265/75-16 Load E 10-ply, these things are a little heavy.

I considered 285's but with the wheel offset of the Level 8's there was no way it would fit without hacking up the truck - especially since I wasn't even lifted (yet). I also knew that each tire weighed over 50-lbs. each (about 53-lbs at the 265/75 size), so I was already prepared to lose some mpg's but not as much as I would with larger 285's. Also, I convinced myself that I would be okay with the minor trimming needed to fit the wheels due to their offset.


Installing the OEM Nissan TPMS sensor in the new wheels.

Since I was keeping the OEM mesh wheels in storage (just in case) we removed the OEM TPMS sensors and fitted them to the new Level 8 wheels using a TPMS rebuild kit for good measure ($8-ish each wheel).


Tires are installed, my buddy is putting new bolts on the rash rings.

I didn’t like the zinc-plated hardware included with the wheels because they were basically gold, and gold doesn’t really match night armor. Also, every Frontier so far that has posted their pics with the Level 8's had the same gold colored bolts and lug nuts, so I wanted to do something different. While waiting for delivery of the Level 8 wheels, I also ordered up two bags of bolts - 100-pcs. each of class 10.9 bolts in black and silver. When we installed the rash rings, I used all black bolts on the right side and all silver bolts on the left side. This way I could drive around for awhile and decide if I liked the look of all black or all silver bolts. I did not change lug nuts yet - that can be done later.


Right front wheel and tire installed, I changed to black bolts for this side.

With one wheel and tire on, we did a rub test (turned the steering wheel lock to lock) and the new tires were definitely going to rub the mud guard, fender liners, and bumper "spoiler" so I removed them temporarily (I'll figure out something later).


Left front wheel and tire installed, I changed to silver bolts for this side.

Even with the mud guards off, I noticed that the tire will still rub the very lower part of the fender area:


There's some slight rub on back of the front fender area, can be fixed later.


Outside photo the next day of the right front, with the black bolts.


Outside photo the next day of the left rear, with silver bolts.
 

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Sweet! I like the silver bolts, gives it some depth, but that's just my opinion.

If you have a chance, would be neat to see a pic straight on to see how noticeable the 36mm offset change is on your truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #138 (Edited)
Sweet! I like the silver bolts, gives it some depth, but that's just my opinion.

If you have a chance, would be neat to see a pic straight on to see how noticeable the 36mm offset change is on your truck.
I might have a pic like that for the next post, I have to just edit the pics then I'll have them up shortly.

Looks great. I'm kind of liking the blacked out look on the rings. It's different than all the trucks you see with that style rim.
I liked the all black version at first, especially during the daytime when you can see all the little details of the wheels; but then I noticed at night that it's almost too dark and everything just becomes one giant black donut... meaning the black tires, black rash rings, black ring bolts, black looking (at night) wheels. Not that I have anything against donuts, but I'm not really a fan of the "murdered out" look either. I ended up putting the silver bolts on all four wheels, though I'm keeping the black bolts in case I want to change it up later.

jesus i need those wheels.
duwit. >:D

Good looking truck! I'm curious if you have any pics of those wheels with the rock rings off? I really want to know what they look like then.
I don't have pics like that, but in the Level 8 Bully Pro 6 thread the first promo image has no rings, and one guy had a pic of the wheels on his truck without the rings installed yet... it's just a standard lip with a series of threaded holes around the circumference. IMO having the rings bolted on is part of what makes the Bully Pro 6 look good. Oh and FYI: the bolt holes are through and through, so you can actually see the tips of the bolts on the inner part of the rim if you look inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #140 (Edited)
Some Photos Before the Rain (11.15.15)

After installing the Level 8 wheels and BF Goodrich tires, I went to nearby Mountain Meadows golf course near Bonelli Park in Pomona, CA to a dirt lot there for some photos. The clouds were rolling in and sure enough, the rain started coming down - but I did manage to squeeze a few photos in before it started getting wet. In the photos I still have the half black/half silver bolt combo installed.


Front 3/4 view (black side), kind of dark because of the weather. You barely notice the black bolts.


Rear 3/4 view (black side); you can see the difference from front height to rear height with stock SV suspension.



Side view (silver side); The BF Goodrich KO2 265's fill up a lot of fender room at stock height.


Front view, rain started falling when I took the pic. Level 8 wheels bring the tires out nice.


Rear 3/4 view (silver side); no more sunken in factory wheels and tires.


Here's how the BFG's/Level 8's sit under the stock-height fender.
 
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