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So I just installed one headlight. I had to crank the headlight as far down as I could to get it close to the factory setting. Is there suppose to be this much light fall out? I feel like I'm going to be blinding on coming traffic. 1st is low beams then high.
 

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So I just installed one headlight. I had to crank the headlight as far down as I could to get it close to the factory setting. Is there suppose to be this much light fall out? I feel like I'm going to be blinding on coming traffic. 1st is low beams then high.
I wouldn't drive my truck with those bulbs installed. Way too much light scatter.
 

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Discussion Starter #844
So I just installed one headlight. I had to crank the headlight as far down as I could to get it close to the factory setting. Is there suppose to be this much light fall out? I feel like I'm going to be blinding on coming traffic. 1st is low beams then high.
Crank it all the way down? Are you sure you have the bulb sitting flush in the housing?
 

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Crank it all the way down? Are you sure you have the bulb sitting flush in the housing?
This. They can be a little mushy until you get them seated correctly.

Sent from my OnePlus 6t using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #847 (Edited)
Custom Mounted JL TWK-88 Control Knob (04.29.19)

While waiting for my next audio upgrade to arrive (TBA in a future post) I spent a day making some small changes to my current audio system, with the main task being to finally install the control knob of my JL Audio TWK-88 Digital Signal Processor in a permanent location. Ever since I first installed the TWK-88 I've had the control knob (which I have set to adjust subwoofer volume and rear fill volume) stuck to the bottom of the center dash area with some double-sided tape, with the status LED just wedged in between two of the center console panels:


The "temporary" location that ended up being years.

This location actually worked fine for the last year or so. It was a little bit of a reach to get to the knob, but when I installed the CT Sounds UBK + Voltmeter I ended up using the UBK knob almost exclusively to adjust bass on the fly. I had planned to permanently install the JL control knob eventually, but for some reason I never got around to it - until now.

First thing's first - I removed the CT Sounds UBK from the side of the center console:


Kay byyyeeeee.

The CT Sounds UBK would be redundant since I was relocating the JL control knob to somewhere more accessible in the center console area. Also, time wasn't kind to it, as the face plate was warped and bent (due to last summer's super high temperatures). Next, I removed the forward-center console cover/bin/shifter surround panel and simply drilled two holes in the small recessed area; in these two holes I mounted the JL control knob body and status LED:


Already installed before I remembered to take pics.


Upper view before installing the actual knobs.


Knobs installed.

I chose this spot because it was easily within reach of my right hand in a natural location. Also, the knob itself sits just below the top level of the center console, so it's protected from accidental bumps and stuff. Also note the LED position - I installed the status LED as low as I could on the back wall of the recess, with the LED aimed forward in the cabin. I also purposely did this for two specific reasons:

1. The status LED is super bright! However it is a multi-color status LED (it tells me which DSP preset I have activated) so I couldn't hide it somewhere where I couldn't see the color of the LED light at all. Mounting it low in this recess meant that even during the day, the LED would shine bright enough for me to see the LED color just at a glance.

2. I purposely aimed the LED forward at the knob so that at night, the LED would illuminate the center console recess, with some LED light showing where the actual control knob was for a subtle visual effect; I think it worked out perfectly:


Nice glow, not glaringly bright at all.


LED color changes with the DSP setting.

EDIT: A couple more LED photos are here.

On to the next upgrade, in a few days or so =)
 

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Discussion Starter #850
Nice and clean, as always. I probably would've tried to sneak a resistor in there to tone it down, but I think your final setup works rather well...
After reading this comment I noticed that during the day that if I were to put a resistor on, then the LED light reflecting off the surrounding plastic wouldn't be bright enough for me to tell what color it was without leaning over to see the LED directly. The way it is currently I can tell what mode the DSP is in with a quick eyeball glance to check what color light is in that "pocket" area, day or night.
 

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After reading this comment I noticed that during the day that if I were to put a resistor on, then the LED light reflecting off the surrounding plastic wouldn't be bright enough for me to tell what color it was without leaning over to see the LED directly. The way it is currently I can tell what mode the DSP is in with a quick eyeball glance to check what color light is in that "pocket" area, day or night.
I know your led is bare but the protruding part reminds me of my initial alert and power leds and lenses for my radar detector. They bothered me so much that I couldn't stop staring at them and had to buy a few different sets of flush mount lenses to determine which ones I liked best.
I realize the dsp led location is not in front of your face like my RD's leds....but just thought I'd chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter #852
I know your led is bare but the protruding part reminds me of my initial alert and power leds and lenses for my radar detector. They bothered me so much that I couldn't stop staring at them and had to buy a few different sets of flush mount lenses to determine which ones I liked best.
I realize the dsp led location is not in front of your face like my RD's leds....but just thought I'd chime in.
Yeah I can see how that LED would be bothersome considering yours is aimed at the eye location haha
 

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Yeah I can see how that LED would be bothersome considering yours is aimed at the eye location haha
Kinda, sorta, not really. They aim to the rear middle. I bought 5mm milky diffused leds with the lowest mcd that I could find. The red alert led catches my peripheral at night just perfectly. I run my RD with display off at night and the green led lets me know that it is powered on. They aren't bright at all. It was the aesthetics of the protruding lenses that bothered me. I would stare at them smh because they looked hideous.
 

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Discussion Starter #854
Kinda, sorta, not really. They aim to the rear middle. I bought 5mm milky diffused leds with the lowest mcd that I could find. The red alert led catches my peripheral at night just perfectly. I run my RD with display off at night and the green led lets me know that it is powered on. They aren't bright at all. It was the aesthetics of the protruding lenses that bothered me. I would stare at them smh because they looked hideous.
...but who put them there? ::laugh::

Yeah the JL Audio LED, if you look at the "before"pic where I have it under the dash, it would blind rear seat passengers if it happened to get knocked into the perfect angle. It's one of the common complaints about the TWK-88 on the JL Audio forums, a lot of people have been requesting a software or firmware update to allow the user to change LED brightness and/or just disable it completely since it's super mega ultra bright.
 

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...but who put them there? ::



Yeah the JL Audio LED, if you look at the "before"pic where I have it under the dash, it would blind rear seat passengers if it happened to get knocked into the perfect angle. It's one of the common complaints about the TWK-88 on the JL Audio forums, a lot of people have been requesting a software or firmware update to allow the user to change LED brightness and/or just disable it completely since it's super mega ultra bright.
I would just replace the dsp led with a 3 color led that has a lower mcd. The main reason I replaced the leds is because the oems were way too bright.
 

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Discussion Starter #856
I would just replace the dsp led with a 3 color led that has a lower mcd.
...I don't have a problem with where I installed it. That's why I put it there.
 

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a lot of people have been requesting a software or firmware update to allow the user to change LED brightness and/or just disable it completely since it's super mega ultra bright.
I wasn't suggesting for to you change anything. As I've said before....your build is the shiznit. My inner monologue wasnt working and came out thru typing my thoughts on a simple solution for those that requested software/firmware updates.
I guess those type of requests are weird to me because instead of requesting Uniden or Escort to make product changes because of led brigtness....I modded to how i prefer. You know what I mean?
Similar to how you took it upon yourself to make some bad azz tweeter pods instead of making requests and hoping for a solution for better sound quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #858
I wasn't suggesting for to you change anything. As I've said before....your build is the shiznit. My inner monologue wasnt working and came out thru typing my thoughts on a simple solution for those that requested software/firmware updates.
I guess those type of requests are weird to me because instead of requesting Uniden or Escort to make product changes because of led brigtness....I modded to how i prefer. You know what I mean?
Similar to how you took it upon yourself to make some bad azz tweeter pods instead of making requests and hoping for a solution for better sound quality.
I think that's because it's two different types of devices using LED(s) for different purposes - the way I see it, one is just a steady "only when you wan to know" indicator, one is more of a "hey I need your attention right now" alert. ::smile::
 

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Discussion Starter #859 (Edited)
Head Unit Upgrade - Kenwood Excelon Reference Series DNX-995S (05.01.19)

A little over 4 years ago I installed a top of the line Kenwood Excelon DNX-892 Navigation Head Unit into my truck, and it's been great. However the interface started to look a little dated, I never liked the resistive touchscreen, and I wanted some new features - specifically Apple CarPlay. With that in mind I took a look at what was on the market from Alpine (overpriced) and Pioneer (clunky interface IMO), but in the end I stayed with Kenwood.

I ordered the Kenwood XR Excelon DNX-995S Double-DIN head unit w/Navigation, which is their latest flagship and part of their top-tier "Reference Series" line up. I chose this head unit because it had most of the same features the old DNX-892 gave me, but with current and/or upgraded tech: newer, crystal clear full HD high-definition capacitive touchscreen, built-in improved Garmin navigation, dual camera connections, hands-free Bluetooth phone integration, dual USB ports, A/V input, SiriusXM-ready, customizable color scheme and wallpaper slideshow, selectable on-screen compass, nice easy to read clock, and of course - the Apple CarPlay compatibility that I wanted. With Apple CarPlay I could seamlessly use Apple Music, Waze and/or Apple Maps, YouTube, Spotify, podcast streams, hands-free messaging, and Siri voice control.


New head unit. Woohoo!

Another reason why it was a good idea to stay with Kenwood was because aside from swapping the old main stereo harness with the new stereo harness, practically everything else I already had stayed in place and was 100% compatible with the new head unit. I'm still using the same bluetooth mic, the same GPS antenna, the same SiriusXM tuner, and (most importantly) I didn't have to touch the Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel interface. From the moment I turned the new head unit on all of the outboard peripherals (with one exception) were working perfectly - including all of my steering wheel controls, the factory rear backup camera, and the OEM Nissan center console USB port. That one exception? My Super Nintendo Classic game console. The new head unit did not have an HDMI input, so since the game console was HDMI only I had to pickup a couple small items - an HDMI to composite converter and a matching A/V cable:


Simple solution for a small problem.

I'm not going to bore you with install photos, because I didn't take any. Instead, some pics of the various features, like:



Apple CarPlay: probably the main reason why I decided to upgrade the head unit in the first place.



Waze: Yes, the head unit has built-in Garmin navigation, but depending on where I'm going I like to switch back and forth between Waze and regular nav. Also, the Garmin nav doesn't rely on my phone having signal - which happens in some spots in the mountains when I'm mountain biking.



I usually listen to SiriusXM to hear some new music...



...which I could then add to my Apple Music custom playlists.



The new head unit also has Spotify for when my niece wants to hear her music.



The Super Nintendo Classic is now on an HD screen (LOL) and ready for gaming.



Lots of adjustments I won't use (because of the TWK-88 DSP), but if there's some minor EQ adjustment I want to make on the fly, I have the functions available.



Last but not least, just one of the practically endless custom wallpapers that the head unit can display in a custom slideshow (reading the images off an SD card).
 

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Discussion Starter #860 (Edited)
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