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Installing new component speakers in my DR also. Went to look at
OEM tweeter location on top of dash, removed the cover and found
out there were no OEM tweeters! Wasn't going to use factory wiring
anyway, but can't seem to find any clearance to add new wiring for them.
Did you just hook yours up to factory wiring?

I do have the option to mount them down by the woofers in a
adapter bracket that was included in my Rockford Fosgate package,
(woofer and tweeter right next to each other) but would rather have
the tweeters up top instead. Not sure what I'm going to do since I can't
find wiring clearance up top. There must be clearance, I just can't find it.
Any thoughts?

mdlweb
 

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Installing new component speakers in my DR also. Went to look at
OEM tweeter location on top of dash, removed the cover and found
out there were no OEM tweeters! Wasn't going to use factory wiring
anyway, but can't seem to find any clearance to add new wiring for them.
Did you just hook yours up to factory wiring?

I do have the option to mount them down by the woofers in a
adapter bracket that was included in my Rockford Fosgate package,
(woofer and tweeter right next to each other) but would rather have
the tweeters up top instead. Not sure what I'm going to do since I can't
find wiring clearance up top. There must be clearance, I just can't find it.
Any thoughts?

mdlweb
I added tweeters to mine that had crossovers built in so I was able to add them to the front speaker wire in parallel. I used a fish tape reel that someone on here recommended and it was key to getting the wires up there.
Here it is
Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #784
Installing new component speakers in my DR also. Went to look at
OEM tweeter location on top of dash, removed the cover and found
out there were no OEM tweeters! Wasn't going to use factory wiring
anyway, but can't seem to find any clearance to add new wiring for them.
Did you just hook yours up to factory wiring?

I do have the option to mount them down by the woofers in a
adapter bracket that was included in my Rockford Fosgate package,
(woofer and tweeter right next to each other) but would rather have
the tweeters up top instead. Not sure what I'm going to do since I can't
find wiring clearance up top. There must be clearance, I just can't find it.
Any thoughts?

mdlweb
Not using factory wiring, the OEM dash speaker wires and the OEM front door speaker wires are connected in parallel and I am running active so I ran new speaker wire to each location.

Not sure what you mean by "can't seem to find any clearance"; you can practically see straight up from the driver's side footwell to the driver's side dash speaker opening.

The passenger side you'll need to use fish tape or similar to run the wire down from the dash opening, behind the HVAC components, and out the bottom of the right-side dash OR pull both glove boxes (easy) and fish speaker wire from the passenger side dash speaker opening, to behind the glove box area, to wherever you need the speaker wire to go.
 

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Thanks raine!! I'm using active cross-overs also. I just dropped the main glove box down
by squeezing in the sides of the box (like changing the cabin filter), shoved the wire down
there, and was able to pull it thru the rest of the way. Thanks again! Hope you and the
truck are doing well - LOL (I'm a mountain biker also. Been in the industry for about 40 years now).
Have a merry Xmas and holidays!!
 

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Discussion Starter #786
Thanks raine!! I'm using active cross-overs also.
Wait - when I said I'm running "active" that means there is no crossover between the amps and my speakers, each speaker has its own amplifier channel. Since you said the plural "crossovers" I think you mean passive crossovers (small circuit box, you connect the tweeter and woofer to it, then it to the amp or headhunt)?

I just dropped the main glove box down by squeezing in the sides of the box (like changing the cabin filter), shoved the wire down there, and was able to pull it thru the rest of the way. Thanks again! Hope you and the truck are doing well - LOL
Good to hear

I'm a mountain biker also. Been in the industry for about 40 years now).
Have a merry Xmas and holidays!!
We should talk LOL

Happy holidays to you too ::smile::
 

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Raine,
Did you have to deal with DRL's when you did the headlight conversion? I like the added light of those Katanas, but my headlights come on at half power during the day, damn canadian shite. I'm thinking I'll have to rewire to move DRL's. Or do the drivers take care of that?
 

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Discussion Starter #788
Raine,
Did you have to deal with DRL's when you did the headlight conversion? I like the added light of those Katanas, but my headlights come on at half power during the day, damn canadian shite. I'm thinking I'll have to rewire to move DRL's. Or do the drivers take care of that?
No - no DRLs in U.S.

You'll probably have to disable the DRL circuit somehow in the truck, I doubt the LED drivers have any DRL circuitry designed in them.
 

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If you can fool the DRL module in to thinking the parking brake is on the DRL will not function. Pulling the park brake up untill the light comes on the dash disables the DRL, just do it before turning the key on.
 

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Raine: I am adding switchback DRL (LEDs) to my truck. Each DRL LED light has three wires, RED for power; YELLOW = Turn Signals and BLACK ground. I am using a relay in the circuit. The relay is 40 amp 4 pins (30 amps are hard to find) I am having difficulty finding a power source near the battery or near the airbox to which I can attach my 86 (on the relay) wire to provide a power source. I need to provide power to the DRLs only when Ignition is ON (the second click before we crank the engine). Hope my question is not too confusing. Any help?
 

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MSK59, I tapped into the IPDM E/R box underhood to pull an ignition, low beam and high beam tap. Wasn't super easy but if you are careful it's certainly possible, slicking the cable insulation back with a box-cutter and soldering a tap off the existing wire(s). I ran that over to my home-brewed fuse / relay centre and powered a 40A Bosch relay for ignition switching back to the cab, to the Blue Sea fuse block. The block inside my underhood box is hot at all times.
 

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OK thank you. Those are the areas I wanted to avoid. I just did a similar hookup on my 350z and tapped into the wire that was not connected and everything is working fine. Can you tell me the color of the wire and the location where you tapped into (picture etc.)? I don't have a dedicated blue box setup.

Raine: sorry for threadjacking.
 

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Discussion Starter #795 (Edited)
If you can fool the DRL module in to thinking the parking brake is on the DRL will not function. Pulling the park brake up untill the light comes on the dash disables the DRL, just do it before turning the key on.
If that's all it takes, sounds like it should be easy with a relay tied into the signal wire coming out from the parking brake somewhere.

Yes, they are

Raine: I am adding switchback DRL (LEDs) to my truck. Each DRL LED light has three wires, RED for power; YELLOW = Turn Signals and BLACK ground. I am using a relay in the circuit. The relay is 40 amp 4 pins (30 amps are hard to find) I am having difficulty finding a power source near the battery or near the airbox to which I can attach my 86 (on the relay) wire to provide a power source. I need to provide power to the DRLs only when Ignition is ON (the second click before we crank the engine). Hope my question is not too confusing. Any help?
Like RyanD1966 suggested, for a switched 12V+ signal in just that location I'd probably also look at tapping it from the fuse/fuseable link box in the engine bay. My reservoir LED lights use switched 12v+ and relay in their circuit, but the source is in the cabin since I have an on/off toggle (which for switchback bulbs you don't need to begin with)
 

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Thank You RyanD and Raine. I got it all hooked up and is working. I added an Add-a-circuit fuse to the left turn signal fuse in the engine compartment (the front small black box). All is working.
 

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Discussion Starter #797
Thank You RyanD and Raine. I got it all hooked up and is working. I added an Add-a-circuit fuse to the left turn signal fuse in the engine compartment (the front small black box). All is working.
awesome, good to hear
 

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I selected these because of two reasons: first, they had a slim profile, which was required due to how close the White Rhino light bar mounting holes are to the bumper. Second, I picked the "ATP" version, which stands for "All Terrain Pattern" - which is best described as a combination of the fog lamp and flood lamp pattern. I felt that this would be the right beam pattern due to the fact that the PIAAs would be mounted in between the OEM headlamps and the OEM fog lamps. Here's the ATP pattern (photo from PIAA website www.piaa.com):
Planning on getting the White Rhino Light Bar. How much clearance is there for lights? Are the ones you got as wide of a profile that can fit?
 

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Discussion Starter #799 (Edited)
Planning on getting the White Rhino Light Bar. How much clearance is there for lights? Are the ones you got as wide of a profile that can fit?
Not much, look at this pic from my (#426) PIAA Wire Wrap post:



You pretty much need a slim lamp where the rear of the lamp is about flush with the back edge of the mounting bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter #800 (Edited)
White Rhino Fabrication Website (12.30.18)

If you go to the White Rhino Fabrication website and look at their light bar for the Nissan Frontier w/plastic bumpers, you'll see that they used a picture of my truck. Funny, because I don't remember if I sent them those pics, or if they asked me if they can use my pic:


...and they didn't even ask me or give me credit for the photo.

Anyhow - in all seriousness, Chris (the owner) at White Rhino Fab is a good dude, one of the few places that make Nissan Frontier-specific parts that I'd recommend. If you haven't seen it yet, here's my build thread post on my White Rhino Fab front light bar, or you can go to their website below:

White Rhino Fabrication
 
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