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I'm no audio geek by any means, but damn you've done a great job with your installation. I wish I could listen to your stereo in person.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Love the Build. Glad to see someone went all in on the Audio. I have 15 DR currently with 3-Way PPI Components up front and a PPI 900.4. I have yet to do a sub box but plan on running the JL audio TW Series. I did take the time to sound deaden, Dynomat, Duct seal and seal the door 100%. My mid bass is crazy in this truck. I have to say the sound deadening alone is well worth the amount of effort. Just to have a quieter cabin.

All your other Mods are very simple and tastful!

So with the Kenwood head unit swap, Did you eliminate the Epicenter? Im still running the stock Headunit but not really enjoying it. I want to go Full Android Headunit just havent done enough research.
I agree - the sound deadening is completely worth it in the end, it's just a lot of labor and I think that's what makes most people hesitant about it.

regarding the JL subs, as shown I have the 10TW-1's and I love their output. Actually it too much output when you're sitting in a small box (i.e. the Frontier interior) where the subwoofers vent directly into the cab (as opposed to having to go through the rear seat in a car install with the subs in the trunk). In fact, unless I'm showing off the bass to a friend, I generally have the sub knob at minimum and the head unit sub output at -10 (as in negative 10) and I still can hear some sub bass depending on what song I'm playing!

As for the Epicenter, I decided to keep it in the loop. I run a full range unfiltered signal out from the head unit into the Epicenter (as designed), then from the Epicenter the signal goes to the PDX-V9 subwoofer inputs. It is on the amp itself where I dial in the subsonic and low-pass crossover points to match up with the main speakers. Most of the time the Epicenter knob is at minimum, but there are certain types of songs (i.e' 80's, Classic Rock) where I can dial in some Epicenter processing and make the song sound richer on the low end compared to the original recording.

I'm no audio geek by any means, but damn you've done a great job with your installation. I wish I could listen to your stereo in person.
Thank you for the compliments
::smile::
 

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The Mini DSP is a great piece. I poke around on the DIYMA forums alot and read alot of great reviews of it. It maybe just to involved for me.. I need to add some base to my Crew cab just waiting for the appropriate funds to do it all at once.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
The Mini DSP is a great piece. I poke around on the DIYMA forums alot and read alot of great reviews of it. It maybe just to involved for me.. I need to add some base to my Crew cab just waiting for the appropriate funds to do it all at once.
Yeah it's a really good DSP for the price, so many features and the real-time PC interface makes it so much easier to make changes and immediately hear the difference, I've spent a lot of time playing with it while tweaking my system... the only thing to pay attention to is the power supply, because it's very sensitive to "dirty power" noise from what I've experienced... not in my truck, but I know a couple others who have the Mini DSP and one of them is still trying to track down a noise issue
 

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Looks like a blast. Bet that snake wasn't in the guidebook. :) (Not something you see every day in this part of the country!)
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Looks like a blast. Bet that snake wasn't in the guidebook. :) (Not something you see every day in this part of the country!)
Yeah I thought it was just some branch or something, then it moved and I slammed on the brakes, and waited until it made it across. I'm nice to nature (even when I mountain bike)... as long as they aren't attacking me.
 

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Sure wish I had the time, skills and info to get that deep into an audio install. Your install looks incredible and I can only imagine the sound quality. I can do chassis, drive train and suspension upgrades in my sleep but ICE has never been one of my strong points and I could never justify the expense to have someone else do a full install of decent components. Must say I'm a bit jealous of you guys who know this stuff so well.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Sure wish I had the time, skills and info to get that deep into an audio install. Your install looks incredible and I can only imagine the sound quality. I can do chassis, drive train and suspension upgrades in my sleep but ICE has never been one of my strong points and I could never justify the expense to have someone else do a full install of decent components. Must say I'm a bit jealous of you guys who know this stuff so well.
If you can do chassis/drivetrain/suspension then ICE would be easy... IMO it's the same + wiring. If you can connect wires (strip, solder, shrink wrap) and follow color codes for wiring, a lot of it is pretty straight forward. Plus unlike many chassis/drivetrain/suspension stuff, each ICE item always has step-by-step installation and wiring instructions.

No torque settings, no need for heavy equipment, no emergency trips to the auto parts store just to get that one weird-sized socket that you only need this one time (LOL)... the only "special" tools I would suggest to have is a multimeter (can't beat Fluke), a soldering iron (I prefer soldering over wire taps and the twist-and-tape method) and a good wire stripper.
 

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If you can do chassis/drivetrain/suspension then ICE would be easy... IMO it's the same + wiring. If you can connect wires (strip, solder, shrink wrap) and follow color codes for wiring, a lot of it is pretty straight forward. Plus unlike many chassis/drivetrain/suspension stuff, each ICE item always has step-by-step installation and wiring instructions.

No torque settings, no need for heavy equipment, no emergency trips to the auto parts store just to get that one weird-sized socket that you only need this one time (LOL)... the only "special" tools I would suggest to have is a multimeter (can't beat Fluke), a soldering iron (I prefer soldering over wire taps and the twist-and-tape method) and a good wire stripper.
I guess it's because I used to be a bumper-bumper tech who graduated into line/trans work. I have all the tools for elec diag and repair (ie: Fluke meter, Thomas and Betts crimper/cutters and soldering stuff), and I'm perfectly capable of doing the install I just don't have the current knowledge of what's avail and what's worth buying into in the ICE world nor the experience with enclosure volumes, impedance ratings, what the hell a processor does etc... I haven't really done any complete installs since high school and it was a bit simpler back then when my vehicles didn't have all the integrated computers and electric options that all draw power so it was easier to tap into a power block without killing something else and all you needed was an amp, some decent speakers, a nice big sub box and an electronic crossover.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
I guess it's because I used to be a bumper-bumper tech who graduated into line/trans work. I have all the tools for elec diag and repair (ie: Fluke meter, Thomas and Betts crimper/cutters and soldering stuff), and I'm perfectly capable of doing the install I just don't have the current knowledge of what's avail and what's worth buying into in the ICE world nor the experience with enclosure volumes, impedance ratings, what the hell a processor does etc... I haven't really done any complete installs since high school and it was a bit simpler back then when my vehicles didn't have all the integrated computers and electric options that all draw power so it was easier to tap into a power block without killing something else and all you needed was an amp, some decent speakers, a nice big sub box and an electronic crossover.
I used to be ASE-certified so I know where you're coming from... vehicle on-board electronics are super complicated compared to before, but audio is still the same. Nowadays any mid-level and up head unit probably has a decent built in crossover, some have pretty good equalizers and time alignment too... to the point that by the time you get to the head unit output, you can just plug straight into the amp and you're good to go. These days the "difficult" stuff is integrating OEM controls (steering wheel buttons, etc.) but if you've done car/truck audio in the past then it's still relatively the same process.

If you ever decide to upgrade your ICE just let me know and I can make some suggestions for you.
 
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