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Discussion Starter #621 (Edited)
Did you see this one. Post #9... excellent
Yeah I went through that thread years ago before I even had subs in my truck. That box in post #9 is similar to what I'm trying to do, but that box is only for a single 10W1

AE doesn't do the panel thing on that box. I didn't like that either. Since I didn't have a preferred driver to put in the box, I found the JL on a quick search and knew it had good reviews so the shallow depth worked perfect for me.
Well you said "I didn't have a preferred driver"... if I didn't either then we all wouldn't be having this conversation, I would have just bought another prefab, bought whatever subs fit, and call it a day LOL

Just ran across this. Would fit nicely as a prefab setup. wish it was cheaper though, essentially they're charging like $130 for this tiny box since the sub can be had for $190. Normal for JL. very tempting though. i just think it would lack the output i'm looking for. unfortunately i need to replace an alpine type-r 10 with 500wrms, this would probably be about half of that. Enclosure Dimensions: 5.563" D x 15.00" W x 11.75" H
All of you guys are talking SINGLE subwoofer enclosures... but you know how you just said "i just think it would lack the output i'm looking for."?

- There's a reason why I want to keep two 10" subs. ::wink::

But that doesn't really help you raine since you have two subs so i apologize for mini thread-jacking. just wanted to throw this out as a possibility for others who may be looking for a relatively cheap prefab option. i really think a custom box is the best solution for us for sure... i'll shut up on this now and look forward to your custom build!
No apologies needed - we're all talking about the same stuff. And it's car audio stuff, I enjoy discussing car audio.

The single sub prefab boxes are a quick way to get bass in the truck, but I just don't like the "universal" look of the enclosures. Plus technically I've already done the "prefab" with the old enclosure and I'm not satisfied with it, there's flaws in its design, and Ithink it can be improved on, albeit requiring custom work to be done.

...otherwise I would just buy another of the same box and it's done ::laugh::
 

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Discussion Starter #623
Have you considered fiberglass or are you trying to stay with mdf?
Yes, I have considered fiberglass. Idea #1 was to go full fiberglass with top firing subs, but I've never worked with fiberglass before, so I'd have to learn how to do it. Plus that would require some down time with my truck, but it's a daily driver so I'd have to figure out where to squeeze in the time.

Idea #2 was to do a combo MDF/fiberglass, top firing again, with the MDF being the bulk of the enclosure (top, sides) and the fiberglass to match the curved floor. But again, that would require me to learn how to do fiberglass first.

Right now (Idea #3) I'm trying to come up with a down-firing enclosure made mainly from MDF - using the original prefab box as my template, but modifying the sizing and corners to how I'd want it. With this idea, the only parts that would need fiberglass (or maybe just some Bondo) would be the rounded corner to match closely with the seat cushion shape.

So for right now I'm working based on idea #3. I want to get a rough frame built up first with MDF, checking fitment and if a top fire config with a fiberglass floor would actually be worth the trouble, then decide if I want to try #2 or lean more towards #3.
 

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Question:
What surface material works best under a down-firing sub?
 

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well so much for that 'perfect' kicker box, the sellers on ebay don't have them any more and haven't updated/removed their listings. so that box is history just like the MTX and JL stealthboxes. i'm surprised they stopped making those, not like there aren't any Frontiers out there... ?! is our truck really that unpopular? seriously bummed out now.

what are the pros and cons to downfiring? with our trucks i'm not sure if up facing is good since anyone who sits there would potentially be crushing the thing unless we make the box super shallow... for that reason i ilke the idea of down firing but then we also need at least half an inch of space underneath it which also robs precious box volume... nothing really a win/win i think
 

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Discussion Starter #626
well so much for that 'perfect' kicker box, the sellers on ebay don't have them any more and haven't updated/removed their listings. so that box is history just like the MTX and JL stealthboxes. i'm surprised they stopped making those, not like there aren't any Frontiers out there... ?! is our truck really that unpopular? seriously bummed out now.
don't know what you're talking about... that box wasn't made for Frontiers LOL it's just a Kicker prefab that happens to have the right dimensions.

Question:
What surface material works best under a down-firing sub?
Do you mean material as in what surface the sub fires the sound into (i.e. metal floor, carpet, etc.)?

what are the pros and cons to downfiring? with our trucks i'm not sure if up facing is good since anyone who sits there would potentially be crushing the thing unless we make the box super shallow... for that reason i ilke the idea of down firing but then we also need at least half an inch of space underneath it which also robs precious box volume... nothing really a win/win i think
Rear seats are supported by a metal bottom plate, so if you're crushing subs underneath, you're bending the rear set bottom first.

Down-firing or up-firing underneath a seat bottom like our trucks basically takes up the same space because if you do up-firing you still need a gap for the air pressure to get out. Also, ideally the mounting surface of the subs would be angled slightly towards the front seats, not perfectly flat... if you do down-firing then the gap is at the bottom with the top of the box flush with the seat and if you do up-firing then the gap would be on top, with the box flush with the floor.

What's also good about the Crew Cab is that the upper and lower surfaces opposite the subwoofer box are both metal - the cab floor and the underside of the seat bottom. With an angled down-firing enclosure (like my old prefab) the bass comes out of the subs, hits the metal floor at an angle, and forces the sound forward into the cab. Likewise, with an angled up-firing enclosure, the bass would come out of the sub, hit the metal rear seat bottom at an angle, and shoot into the cab as well.

Note that in both examples above, the key is having the subwoofer mounting surface at an angle; if you do a perfectly flat up-firing or bottom-firing enclosure, you risk the bass bouncing back toward the subwoofer cone, causing distortion and possible speaker damage.

That said... the trick with the Frontier is actually applying the above with the subwoofers I have due to their physical dimensions. These 10TW1-4 subs pump out a lot of bass together, and I am trying to keep that level of bass with the new enclosure.
 

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Discussion Starter #627 (Edited)
Dee Zee Bed Mat (03.25.18)

When I bought my truck I made sure it came with the factory spray-in bedliner (as part of the VTP package). However I noticed that it was very abrasive, scratching or scraping up anything I put in the bed (aside from mountain bike tires). For those of you who have the factory spray-in bedliner, you know what I'm talking about; it's almost like grip tape! I had the Dee Zee Truck Bed Mat on my buy list for a long time (maybe since the beginning of 2015) but it was always pushed aside for other things I wanted to buy. Recently I noticed the price dropped to $60 shipped on eBay, so I decided to finally buy it.


Doesn't look heavy. Wait...

Fun fact: I saw the delivery guy through the living room window struggle up my driveway to the front porch carrying the mat. When I opened the door later to get it, I realized why he was struggling - it was pretty heavy! The Dee Zee mat is solid rubber, with a shallow channeled top surface, thick borders, and is molded to the shape of the Frontier bed floor. When rolled up it's not really that heavy, but it's an awkward balancing act trying to carry it through the hallway to the garage. Anyways, here it is unfolded:


It's like a giant all-weather floor mat.

They only sell a 6-foot length to fit long bed Frontiers. However I have a short bed, and luckily Dee Zee has me covered - the truck bed mat has a cut line molded into the mat that is exactly the shape and size of the short bed:


This mat can handle long beds and short beds with just a trim.

With the aid of my 4-foot metal ruler and a box cutter, I had the mat trimmed to size in literally 3 minutes. I thought it would take longer to trim such a thick rubber mat, but good thing I had a fresh blade in the box cutter and a long enough ruler to cut the lines straight and tidy.


Cut to shape for a short bed in 180 seconds.

Below is a photo showing the thickness and how the upper surface is channeled. I thought these channels would make it a little difficult to cut, but I guess not:


1/4" maximum thickness should offer some good protection and cushion.

With the mat trimmed, all that was left was to install it into the bed of my truck. I used the word "install" loosely, because all I had to do really was drop it into the bed and it was done. Good thing though, because I did this in the evening and it's pretty chilly outside at night.

Before:


After:


...and a bonus photo showing what it looks like with my Truxedo LoPro bed cover on:



Pretty happy with the truck bed mat - it fits right, and is heavy enough to stay in place, especially since the factory spray-in bedliner's gritty surface grabs the underside of the mat. Up top the surface is softer than the actual truck bed, but not so soft that you sink in. No more scratchy surface!
 

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Discussion Starter #629
Raine, your write ups are always great and your pictures are always on point. Even for something as simple as a bed mat. You should be doing product reviews for a living.
Thanks, I used to work at a magazine at one point in time.
 

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Discussion Starter #631

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Discussion Starter #633

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I spent way too long reading this thread. I’ve definitely gotten a lotta ideas for subtle things I’d like to start with like the red tow hooks. One unique thing I’m trying to do is figure out some type of rack I can use to hold my ladders and conduit I carry with me since this is a work truck, but will still look good like the off road style bed racks and roof racks I see on other peoples trucks. Any input or ideas would be appreciated. A topper would be perfect, but I’m not about to spend $2k+ on one. Maybe a tannou cover that would work with a rack? I haven’t had much luck on here finding solutions but you seem creative
 

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I spent way too long reading this thread. I’ve definitely gotten a lotta ideas for subtle things I’d like to start with like the red tow hooks. One unique thing I’m trying to do is figure out some type of rack I can use to hold my ladders and conduit I carry with me since this is a work truck, but will still look good like the off road style bed racks and roof racks I see on other peoples trucks. Any input or ideas would be appreciated. A topper would be perfect, but I’m not about to spend $2k+ on one. Maybe a tannou cover that would work with a rack? I haven’t had much luck on here finding solutions but you seem creative
Take a look at the what have you done to your truck today thread a guy did a nice rack recently I think it was a Tacoma rack or something.

Raine, gotta say I agree about your write ups. Hell they are so good I can't imagine a YouTube video doing justice to the write up!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #636
I spent way too long reading this thread. I’ve definitely gotten a lotta ideas for subtle things I’d like to start with like the red tow hooks. One unique thing I’m trying to do is figure out some type of rack I can use to hold my ladders and conduit I carry with me since this is a work truck, but will still look good like the off road style bed racks and roof racks I see on other peoples trucks. Any input or ideas would be appreciated. A topper would be perfect, but I’m not about to spend $2k+ on one. Maybe a tannou cover that would work with a rack? I haven’t had much luck on here finding solutions but you seem creative
I've never seen someone with a tonneau and a cargo rack... because the cargo rack has to bolt to the bedside tops, and that's where tonneau's also attach.

Raine, gotta say I agree about your write ups. Hell they are so good I can't imagine a YouTube video doing justice to the write up!
Thanks... writing vs. video has way different requirements, I write this stuff when I can squeeze some free time out of the day. We used to do writing and video at a previous job and video is very time consuming.
 

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Discussion Starter #637 (Edited)
System Refresh, Day 1 - Cable Management (04.02.18)

I had to send my TWK-88 DSP to JL Audio for some service, and since I had to pull the passenger seat to get to it, I decided to start an audio "refresh" project I had in mind for awhile now. Since I knew I'd have some waiting time for my DSP to come back, I could take my time with everything I had planned to do. For this first day I did the following:

- Pull TWK-88 DSP for service



Obviously, the first thing I did was pull the interior:


I'm pretty expert at pulling my interior out, I've done it so many times now.


I'm pretty expert at pulling my interior out, I've done it so many times now.

After removing the right-side processor/rear amp platform, I temporarily bypassed the DSP by using some RCA connectors.


RCA Spaghetti and temporary wiring.

Next the driver's side, I removed the Alpine PDX-V9 amp, pulled the amplifier platform, then temporarily reconnected the amp - I did this and the DSP bypass so I could still have some music for my commute.


Main amp under the driver's seat, without the amp platform.

Before I even started I did what I usually do - I printed out diagrams of the wiring changes I had planned to keep from forgetting something:


Wires and cables everywhere!


Revised A/V cable diagram.

To explain the above:

I. Cables "A" and "B": Cable A is a USB cable that comes from the single USB port on the center console. Cable B is a USB-to-USB Type-B cable that connects to my JL Audio TWK-88 DSP. This lets me plug my laptop into the center console USB port when I want to configure and tune the DSP, without having to try to plug directly into the DSP which is normally hard to get to under the passenger seat.

II. Cables "C" and "D": Cable C is a USB cable connected to the second USB port on the back of my Kenwood DNX-892 head unit. Cable D is a USB-to-Micro USB cable connected to the SNES Classic. The SNES Classic is getting power directly from my head unit, and it turns on/off automatically with the head unit.

III. Cables "E" and "F": Cable E is an HDMI cable connected to the HDMI input on the back of my Kenwood DNX-892 head unit. Cable F is another HDMI cable connected. To the SNES Classic. This sends the video signal to the DNX-892.

The whole point of using the couplers (instead of running a single longer cable) was to bring the ports from the back of my head unit to somewhere more accessible, so that I wouldn't have to remove the center dash every time I wanted to change something. As a solution I decided to position the couplers in a place that isn't seen normally, yet I can get to it in seconds with no tools - and that place was right under the cup holders:


After getting the wiring done.


Easy to access under the cupholder, if needed.

So after getting the A/V cables sorted out, I reinstalled my interior since it's my daily driver and I have to drive it to the office.
But I'm not done yet, more to come later =)
 

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Very nice work. Way more than I could ever do. I just want a nice Alpine head unit with nav, and a mild amp...
 

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Discussion Starter #639
Very nice work. Way more than I could ever do. I just want a nice Alpine head unit with nav, and a mild amp...
You're missing a speaker upgrade
 
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