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Discussion Starter #601 (Edited)
I understand not adding a 300+ dollar CAI, but why not a drop in K&N or similar? I only ask out of curiosity and am interested in your take on it because you put a lot of thought and logic into what you do so there has to be a specific reason you went with a factory filter. Thanks in advance
Honestly, I don't feel the need. Changing to a wet K&N air filter (or intake) by itself just brings noise, the "performance gain" is minimal, and it adds extra maintenance. I thought about a dry drop-in, but that's what I have now with a $10 OEM air filter. Related, I also thought about exhaust too, just to change the sound - but not because I think it'll make my truck a rocket, I'm not naive haha

IMO There's nothing wrong with staying bone stock under the hood. Engine runs reliably, no issues with smog or MPG. If ever I decide to install an aftermarket intake, it would be just for the sake of modding; it's a pickup truck, not a race car and... it never will be ::laugh::

Plus, having experience with actual track racing - changing intake, exhaust, and headers is only worth it performance-wise if you have more extensive engine mods down the line. By themselves you just let the engine breathe more and make cool sounds. It doesn't "gain" any horsepower, and MPGs drop.

Raine you also buy 6 quarts for every oil change. Not 5.
​Well our engine spec per the manual is 5.4 Quarts, I'd rather have a little extra than not enough ::wink::
 

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Honestly, I don't feel the need. Changing to a wet K&N air filter (or intake) by itself just brings noise, the "performance gain" is minimal, and it adds extra maintenance. I thought about a dry drop-in, but that's what I have now with a $10 OEM air filter. Related, I also thought about exhaust too, just to change the sound - but not because I think it'll make my truck a rocket, I'm not naive haha

IMO There's nothing wrong with staying bone stock under the hood. Engine runs reliably, no issues with smog or MPG. If ever I decide to install an aftermarket intake, it would be just for the sake of modding; it's a pickup truck, not a race car and... it never will be ::laugh::

Plus, having experience with actual track racing - changing intake, exhaust, and headers is only worth it performance-wise if you have more extensive engine mods down the line. By themselves you just let the engine breathe more and make cool sounds. It doesn't "gain" any horsepower, and MPGs drop.



​Well our engine spec per the manual is 5.4 Quarts, I'd rather have a little extra than not enough ::wink::
I also find that a stock paper air filter and EA dry filter to perform about the same. The reusable part is not really a money saver, just more work. I'll explain. 10$ use once. $50, clean five times and they are about toast as they do not clean up to 100% efficiency. I was surprised how much more air a new filter flowed compared to my just cleaned EA with 50,000 miles on it.

As for oil capacity, I don't think you will ever drain that 0.4 quarts. Been doing oil changes with the big 5 quart jug and never needed more.
 

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Discussion Starter #603
As for oil capacity, I don't think you will ever drain that 0.4 quarts. Been doing oil changes with the big 5 quart jug and never needed more.
Actually... one time I was near the "low" line on the dipstick after using a 5-qt jug, which is why I always buy that extra quart haha
 

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Discussion Starter #604 (Edited)
Spare Tire Modded FJ Cover (03.07.18)

Note:
this mod was first done years ago, I just never had a chance to take some pics of it until today when I was checking up on my spare tire pressure and condition.


3 years later, spare tire is still good; gave it a bit of a clean and spray to keep the rubber from drying out.

Back when I upgraded my wheels and tires, I noticed my OEM spare tire had weird indents/gouges on the tire sidewalls that were caused by being pressed up under two frame cross member bars under the truck bed. I didn't want the same thing to happen to a brand new spare KO2, so I started window shopping for some sort of hard shell tire cover (a soft cover wouldn't help at all). Then I realized that my cousin wasn't using the OEM spare tire cover from his Toyota FJ Cruiser. I asked him what the OEM tire size was, and for his FJ it was 265/70-17... which coincidentally has the same dimensions as my 265/75-16 KO2s. Since he had no use for the cover anymore (he went up in tire size also) he gave me the cover.

Fitting it was relatively easy, the diameter was spot on. However, I had two small issues to deal with. First, the bottom half of the cover was some sort of vinyl with an elastic edge, and it wouldn't fit completely onto the KO2 tire. Since I only needed the hard top for protection, I trimmed the vinyl lower half off. Second - the cover had no opening in the center; I needed an opening for the chain to go through, so I brought out my trusty Dremel tool and used some existing lines in the cover to cut out a large window out of the center.

Fast forward to now, I just wiped the cover clean, and if you look at the photo below you can see where the cross member bars are hitting the cover (but not the actual tire sidewall):


You can see the marks from the chassis cross member bars on the cover.

The air pressure was a few psi below, so I aired it up and put the cover back on:


Toyota spare tire cover gets a new purpose on a Nissan.

The following photo is with the spare tire back up in stored position. I couldn't get a better photo because it was a rainy afternoon and I wasn't working with much light, but you can see both cross member bars in the photo and how the cover protects my spare tire from contact:


Sidewalls are protected.
 

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After installing my suspension lift (more on this in a later post, heh!) once again I had to temporarily remove the fender liners, mud flaps, and front spoiler for clearance. I didn't like how the front end looked without the lower part, so I decided to trim the spoiler so that I can reinstall the lower bumper pieces only and still have tire clearance. Because of the shape of the spoiler pieces there was no way I could trim it other than by hand, so first I picked up a second front spoiler set from another member here on the forum. With my trusty Dremel, it took me about 45 minutes (and a lot of melted plastic bits everywhere) to first trim and then smooth out the edges. With the trimming done, I reinstalled the parts underneath the bumper. I like how the truck looks higher without the front lip part, but even better now since it no longer looks like there's something missing down there.


Trimmed spoiler below, original spoiler up top.


Trimmed spoiler installed.

With that out of the way, the mudflaps just need a small trim on the lower edge for clearance. However, it does look like the fender liners will need reshaping. I'll do this later when I get around to it.
Just did this today. Doesn't look anywhere as smooth as yours but I think it cleans up the front end a lot.
 

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Hey raine do you mind measuring the dimensions on your asc sub box. Can't seem to find that particular one online. I'm measuring about 20 inches max width that would fit in the truck but the smallest dual box I find is around 23. Wondering if that would squeeze in or if the box you have is just a smidge narrower.
 

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Discussion Starter #607
Hey raine do you mind measuring the dimensions on your asc sub box. Can't seem to find that particular one online. I'm measuring about 20 inches max width that would fit in the truck but the smallest dual box I find is around 23. Wondering if that would squeeze in or if the box you have is just a smidge narrower.
This is the box I used to have:
2005-2014 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab Truck Dual 10" Sealed Sub Box - 2X10NISSAN-CREW-FRONT

As a small build update, I'm (temporarily) only running a single sub in a prefab shallow box I bought from Amazon while I work on building myself a custom dual enclosure. The prefab specs are 15.25" x 20.125" x 5.125" - I first tried fitting it under the right-side rear seat horizontally, and it fits width-wise BUT it sticks out forward a few inches past the seat bottom edge. Judging from how this shallow box sits in relation to the floor, I'm pretty sure a 23" wide box is too wide and won't fit.

I currently have the shallow box running lengthwise behind the driver's seat since I usually only need room for 1-3 people in the truck.
 

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ah ok. i had thought you posted showing a small prefab with a couple of jl 10s in it, maybe it was that bigger one i was seeing. yeah, from my measurements anything over 20 won't fit, and ideally less than 12" high or it'll stick out into the foot well... there are so many single 10 prefab boxes out there that are so close to fitting, two of three dimensions are good but one is always slightly too large in some way. I may just ditch my plan for a nice 10 and go with some loaded 8 instead but i'm afraid I won't be happy with the output if I go with a single 8.
Was there something you didn't like about that dual box frontier box? i would be getting the supercrew one that only took up the large storage big if I go the custom box route since i'll only be running one sub, just not wanting to spend $150 on a damn box...
 

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Discussion Starter #609
ah ok. i had thought you posted showing a small prefab with a couple of jl 10s in it, maybe it was that bigger one i was seeing. yeah, from my measurements anything over 20 won't fit, and ideally less than 12" high or it'll stick out into the foot well... there are so many single 10 prefab boxes out there that are so close to fitting, two of three dimensions are good but one is always slightly too large in some way. I may just ditch my plan for a nice 10 and go with some loaded 8 instead but i'm afraid I won't be happy with the output if I go with a single 8.
Was there something you didn't like about that dual box frontier box? i would be getting the supercrew one that only took up the large storage big if I go the custom box route since i'll only be running one sub, just not wanting to spend $150 on a damn box...
I think it was just the photo showing half of the whole box.

And you're right - I went through the same thing, searching for a single prefab that would fit my 10" JL under the seat (while I build my new enclosure) and it doesn't look like there's a prefab that fits all 3 dimensions. The temporary one I have right now was the smallest I could find to fit the height and width, but not the depth. I was actually going to make an "official" build thread post about this in a few minutes, I will answer the rest of your questions in that post =)
 

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Discussion Starter #610 (Edited)
For Now... Half the Bass (03.10.18)

(Coincidentally @phatB was asking me about my subwoofer enclosure while I was typing this up)

Last weekend I got rid of the prefab dual subwoofer box I've been using for the last few years. The dual box was far from perfect; for starters, I didn't like how it didn't sit perfectly centered under the rear seat, and how the upper corners of the box stuck out past the curved seat bottom. It was common for rear passengers to hit their leg on the corners of the box when getting in the back seat, eventually wearing away at the box carpet. More importantly, the way they make these boxes, to get added depth they actually cut out parts of the 3/4" back wall to make room for the sub magnet, then glued a thinner 1/4" piece of wood over the holes. After a couple months this thin piece came loose from the speaker pressure, I had to remove that 1/4" panel and replace it with a 1/2" piece of MDF. To be honest, I originally bought this prefab box because back then I was looking for a quick and easy solution. However, that was way before I went all-in with the audio system! I've finally decided that I will try to make my own custom enclosure, the way I want it.

Here's the old box - you can see the "squares" where they added the 1/4" panels:

Old box when it was brand new.

Before getting rid of the old box, I searhced for a small, prefab single 10" box I could use temporarily since I didn't want to have no bass at all while working on the new enclosure. I ran into two hurdles here. First, every single 10" prefab box I found had only two of the three dimensions (length, depth, height) compatible with the space underneath the back seats. Second, since I am using JL 10TW1-4's (which aren't exactly shallow and are definitely not narrow) that narrowed my search even more. The smallest prefab I could find that would work was good in the height and width measurement, but not the depth - it fit under the right-side seat, but it stuck out forward about 3 inches. I ordered it anyways, and placed it on the floor behind the driver's seat for temporary use:


Temp bass box, prefab for $40.

So for now, I'm only rocking a single 10" sub. Personally it's not enough bass for me, not sure if that's just because I'm used to having a pair of 10's. Anyhow - as for the custom enclosure I'm planning on building, I set some specific goals/details that might pose some challenges:

A. Enclosure must ave enough volume for both of my 10" JLs
B. Fit clean underneath the right side seat bottom and over the driveshaft bump
C. Must have a rounded corner on the right side to match the seat bottom (with no corners sticking out),
D. Narrow enough (width) so that I can reinstall the left side OEM cargo bin
E. Hopefully color-matched carpet or textured finish to match door panels

I will update the build thread as this project rolls forward. Wish me luck LOL
 

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ah, i don't blame you for getting rid of the prefab. there are a few different companies who make 'custom' ones for the Fronty though, seems the supercrew one is pretty popular, i'm sure someone could give us their opinion on that one. i sure wish i could see some in person without buying one first to see how well it actually fits or at least see some pictures. To fit two 10's and only take up one bin might be hard to find because that'll result in only around .25 cft per sub.
 

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Discussion Starter #612
ah, i don't blame you for getting rid of the prefab. there are a few different companies who make 'custom' ones for the Fronty though, seems the supercrew one is pretty popular, i'm sure someone could give us their opinion on that one. i sure wish i could see some in person without buying one first to see how well it actually fits or at least see some pictures. To fit two 10's and only take up one bin might be hard to find because that'll result in only around .25 cft per sub.
I think I've contacted all of them. Trust me LOL

- Supercrew: actually told me they do the 1/4" cutout panel thing on top as well (not 1/8", I edited my original post to reflect this). They said they can make it solid if I were to request it.

- Ground Shaker: also does the cutout, and their depth measurements are deceiving since the actual area available for dual 10's is cone-shaped, so you can't use any sub that has a cylindrical or tall basket.

- Rodney's Boxes: also does the cutout.

- ASC: I already went over that in my original post.

For my specific subwoofers, I need 0.397 cu-ft. per sub (subwoofer displacement included), or 0.794 cu-ft. total for two subwoofers. So far in my diagram I have the main box at about 0.52 cu_ft., so I'm close but not there yet.
 

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ah, i don't blame you for getting rid of the prefab. there are a few different companies who make 'custom' ones for the Fronty though, seems the supercrew one is pretty popular, i'm sure someone could give us their opinion on that one. i sure wish i could see some in person without buying one first to see how well it actually fits or at least see some pictures. To fit two 10's and only take up one bin might be hard to find because that'll result in only around .25 cft per sub.
I just installed a single 10" Prefab from Audio Enhancers Cost a hair over $100 shipped. I'm running a 10WT3-D4 in it with around 375-400W to it. Sounds great. I just had to widen the mounting hole to fit the JL. They can custom cut the hole, for $18 bucks. I paid for them to do it but they didn't. They ended up refunding me the $18. About 45min with the Dremel to get it sorted. They could have utilized some of the space to the rear better but it doesn't look odd with the seat down. I don't have many passengers so ingress hasn't been much of an issue.

J
 

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Nice. Still sticks out in front a little more than I'd like but it's very nice that it isn't close to the door so there no issue fitting with the curve of the seat.
That's crazy that all 3 of those companies use that shady panel method. Does audio enhancers? Guessing not since it shows mounting depth is only 4-1/4. Definjtely one to consider, don't see a price though
 

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I’ll wish you luck, even though we all know you don’t need it. I’m sure it will be surgically executed. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
 

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Discussion Starter #616
I just installed a single 10" Prefab from Audio Enhancers Cost a hair over $100 shipped. I'm running a 10WT3-D4 in it with around 375-400W to it... I don't have many passengers so ingress hasn't been much of an issue.
Your 10TW3-D4 is only 3.25" deep so it has room to clear... but my 10TW1-4 needs 4.36" minimum. Plus I have passengers often.

That's crazy that all 3 of those companies use that shady panel method. Does audio enhancers? Guessing not since it shows mounting depth is only 4-1/4. Definjtely one to consider, don't see a price though
I did talk to Audio Enhancers as well, their "4.5-inch" mounting depth is a little misleading since the top of the box (opposite the woofer opening) is tapered; it's only 4.25" in the center of the magnet, goes down to about 3" towards the rear.

I’ll wish you luck, even though we all know you don’t need it. I’m sure it will be surgically executed. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
I hope there's a finished product ::smile::
 

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Nice. Still sticks out in front a little more than I'd like but it's very nice that it isn't close to the door so there no issue fitting with the curve of the seat.
That's crazy that all 3 of those companies use that shady panel method. Does audio enhancers? Guessing not since it shows mounting depth is only 4-1/4. Definjtely one to consider, don't see a price though

AE doesn't do the panel thing on that box. I didn't like that either. Since I didn't have a preferred driver to put in the box, I found the JL on a quick search and knew it had good reviews so the shallow depth worked perfect for me.

Should have given the link I used. Found these guys from AE's dealer locator...
xtrememobilesolutions.com 05-18 Nissan Frontier - Single 8" or 10" Subwoofer Box.

There was a local dealer but I couldn't beat the price.

J
 

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Just ran across this. Would fit nicely as a prefab setup. wish it was cheaper though, essentially they're charging like $130 for this tiny box since the sub can be had for $190. Normal for JL. very tempting though. i just think it would lack the output i'm looking for. unfortunately i need to replace an alpine type-r 10 with 500wrms, this would probably be about half of that.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JL-Audio-CS110LG-TW1-2-Single-10TW1-Loaded-Sealed-Subwoofer-Enclosure-300W/401462378722?hash=item5d7905c0e2:g:-S0AAOSwxqpaOBsW

Enclosure Dimensions: 5.563" D x 15.00" W x 11.75" H
 

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Also found this one...discontinued model but looks like a couple of places still have them. looks like PERFECT dimensions for us. not really a kicker fan but for the price i think this would be a great prefab. The newer version has a PR too and is like 4inches wider so it's a no-go :-(

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-vev8Tok10Mr/p_2064TRT102/Kicker-40TCWRT102.html

19-3/8"W
11-3/4"H
6-3/8"D1 x 3-3/4"D2

But that doesn't really help you raine since you have two subs so i apologize for mini thread-jacking. just wanted to throw this out as a possibility for others who may be looking for a relatively cheap prefab option. i really think a custom box is the best solution for us for sure... i'll shut up on this now and look forward to your custom build!
 
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