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No idea, sorry... I got mine 3 years ago from my cousin and he got them from Japan
No need to apologize. It's all good. I've been listening to different horn sound clips and that turbine horn sounds best to me. I can't seem to find any for sale though. Thanks for the reply.

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Discussion Starter #583

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Discussion Starter #584 (Edited)
Super NES Classic Install (02.18.18)

Had some time to kill this weekend so I decided to finally do the Super NES Classic install. Late last year I did a quick test install, using my external HDMI and USB ports to see what it would look like on my head unit screen, since the console was small enough I was pretty sure I could figure out how to install it in a semi-permanent fashion:


Almost fits in the cup holders.

Since I wanted a more permanent, transparent install the main thing I had to do was relocate the HDMI+USB extension, which were currently in my upper 12v spot externally:


These need to be relocated to the rear.

...which meant, yeah - time to pull the center console and dash again:


I've become an expert at pulling the interior of the Frontier.

With the HDMI+USB extension removed, I now had a blank hole in the lower console. No problem - in their place I was going to install a 2xUSB extension:


Two USB ports in the size of one 12v connector.

The 2xUSB extension was from the same brand as my 3.5mm+USB extension in the second 12v location so the shape, size, and cover matched perfectly:


Looks like OEM.

The cable end of the extension was plugged into an Aukey High-Power Dual-Port charger, which was in turn plugged into the OEM 12v receptacle that I hid behind the dash. I did it this way instead of hard wiring just in case I decide to change things up again (which often happens). Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture of this, so here's a photo of the 12v charger I used:


Aukey Dual-Port USB Charger.

With the 2xUSB extension in place, I did a quick check with a USB tester, and all was good so far:


It's alive. Heh.

Switching to the back of the cabin for a moment, I now had to run some new HDMI and USB cables. The plan was to install the SNES Classic console somewhere behind the rear seats, so that if I needed to I can easily pull the console without having to disassemble things. Since I had the center console still out of the vehicle, I used fish tape to snake both cables under the rear part of the carpet, from the back of the cabin to the center console area:


Fish tape is so useful.

Now back to the HDMI/USB extension - I ran the cables along the center console area, and positioned the ports just at the rear of the center console, just behind where the rear cup holders would be. One end of the new HDMI and USB cables plugged into the extension. With this done, I could put the dash and center console back into the truck and button everything up:


HDMI/USB ports successfully relocated from center dash to hidden under center console.

The reason why I only got to doing this install now was because I needed wireless controllers in order to have a hidden install. These came in the form of 8Bitdo SN30 2.4gHz Wireless SNES Classic Controllers, which were a reasonable $25 each. I finally got around to ordering a pair for two player action:


Feels just like the classic controllers, minus the wires.

Last but not least - installing the console itself. Staying with the "easily removable" idea, I installed the console in the back of the cabin, just underneath the left-side passenger seat. This kept it hidden, but easily accessible if I wanted to remove it for outside use:


A small piece of velcro secures it in place.

And that's it - I now have a semi-permanent, hidden SNES Classic installed in the truck for passenger entertainment. Game on! :😁:


Two player wireless gaming installation complete.
 

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Discussion Starter #587 (Edited)
TPMS Replacement Notes, Part 2 (02.18.18)

Continuing from the earlier post, the conclusion of my TPMS replacement "adventure":

Day 6, Wednesday 02/07
- Had a 20 mile drive on the freeway in the evening - more than enough for the TPMS to reset. But it didn't.

Day 7, Thursday 02/08
  • I found myself near a Nissan dealership after work so I passed by the service center
  • The service guys were still there and I asked them about the whole "TPMS reset" situation, and they kindly took my truck to the service bay to try to reset the TPMS on the spot (no appointment needed). After watching the technician do the rounds around my truck, he came back and showed me the TPMS device, and guess what? He could get pressure readings on every sensor EXCEPT the front left... and that's the one that I had replaced. The tech felt bad that I had to replace it again, he didn't charge me anything to check BUT he did mention that a new TPMS sensor (just one) would be $95, plus install for a total of $220.
  • Yes, I declined.
Day 8, Friday 02/09
  • Called my buddy who does my tires, he ordered a new TPMS sensor for me directly from his contact at a different local Nissan dealership
  • Before you ask, I have like 5 Nissan dealerships within 30 minutes from my house, another 4 or so within an hour
  • Buddy pal hookup price for the OEM Nissan TPMS sensor: $40
  • Contacted the eBay seller and told them what happened at the dealership, and the seller refunded my $16.
  • Now I had to wait until the following Tuesday for the second TPMS sensor to arrive.
Day 12, Tuesday 02/13
  • New TPMS arrived
  • Had my tire guy install it that evening, however I was already resigned to visiting the dealership again to have them do the reprogram.
Day 16, Saturday 02/17
  • Before heading out to the dealership to try to get squeezed in without an appointment, I went back online and did some re-reading.
  • Decided to try the manual reprogram method one more time, except I saw another set of tire pressures to try.
  • Adjusted tire pressures, this time I tried 34/31/29/26-psi (FL/FR/RR/RL)
  • Turned key to "ON" (engine not started)
  • Waited for TPMS light to go from blinking to steady on
  • Grounded TPMS wire 5 times in 10 seconds
  • TPMS light started blinking slowly
  • Drove about 15 miles on the freeway
  • TPMS light stopped blinking, and was completely off!
  • I exited the freeway and stopped in a shopping mall parking lot.
  • Took a look at the door label for my truck, and it specified "36-psi"
  • Used my Viair 300P compressor, I aired all of the tires to 36-psi (yes I know, this was 36-psi hot).
  • Drove home, waited 4 hours for tires to cool down
  • Checked air pressures, they were all at 35-psi, so i added 1-psi back to each for 36/36/36/36-psi
  • Drove again for about 20 miles in the evening, TPMS light was still "off"
Day 17, Sunday 02/18
  • Turned the truck on, and TPMS light was still "off"
  • To test, I dropped the left-front tire down to 20-psi
  • Drove around my neighborhood, and the TPMS light went back "on"
  • Drove back home, aired the left-front tire back up to 36-psi
  • Drove around the block, and in about 20 seconds the TPMS light went "off" again. Yay!
So... Conclusions:
  • eBay TPMS sensor was defective from the start, since dealership couldn't read it
  • OEM Nissan TPMS sensor worked out of the gate, no dealership visit required
  • Maybe OEM Nissan TPMS sensor was already "awake", which is a good thing
  • I successfully programmed in a new TPMS sensor without a dealership visit
:😄:
 

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Discussion Starter #588
^That is so cool.
I'm guessing that's what my nephew and nieces will say when they discover it

I've been eyeing my SNES classic debating doing the same thing...looks damn good, as always...
What made it an easy install was the fact that the console uses USB power + uses a standard HDMI output.
 

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Discussion Starter #590
nice... but street fighter with only four buttons?!
Actually the 8-bitdo controllers have 8 buttons like the OG SNES controllers (Select, Start, 4x A/B/X/Y on the face, and 2x L/R shoulder buttons).

Plus, no one uses low punch and mid kick in StreetFighter. LOL ::wink::
 

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copycat w/ questions...

Hey everyone, after reading countless pages of this and other posts I think I'm finally ready to order my lift kit. Thanks for all the awesome info; Raine, I'm pretty sold on your set up, and after getting the same wheels & tires I'm in dire need of that extra 2.5" lift. Before I place orders for everything I was wondering if anyone had any advice on saving a little cash when it comes to different vendors or deals of any sort. Using Raine's build as a shopping list, here's what I'm looking at (links and prices included):

PRG products:
King Shocks 2.5" Custom Coilovers $1,449
Bilstein 5125 Shocks, for 2-3" Lift $189
PRG/Deaver 2-leaf AAL, 2.5" Lift $159
PRG 1/2" Front Lift Spacers $34

Nisstec products:
Nisstec Axle Degree Shims $49
Nisstec U-Bolts $49
Total Chaos Upper Control Arms $710
OEM Nissan LCA Camber/Caster Bolts $55

= $2,694 :serious:

My question for Raine and anyone else is would you make any changes to your current set up? Particularly anything that might save some money? I don't mind spending a bit more for a better product, but want to be ready (and then some) for exploring national forest and BLM lands this summer here in NorCal. Also the Kings from PRG don't seem to offer the compression adjusters you got; do I have to order directly through King for that set up?

One last thing, Raine do you know the specs for the bolts you replaced on your rock rings? Or do you remember where you ordered them from? I haven't been able to find that info anywhere online.

Thanks!
 

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copycat w/ questions...

Hey everyone, after reading countless pages of this and other posts I think I'm finally ready to order my lift kit. Thanks for all the awesome info; Raine, I'm pretty sold on your set up, and after getting the same wheels & tires I'm in dire need of that extra 2.5" lift. Before I place orders for everything I was wondering if anyone had any advice on saving a little cash when it comes to different vendors or deals of any sort that I should know about. Using Raine's build as a shopping list, here's what I'm looking at (links and prices included):

PRG products:
King Shocks 2.5" Custom Coilovers $1,449
Bilstein 5125 Shocks, for 2-3" Lift $189
PRG/Deaver 2-leaf AAL, 2.5" Lift $159
PRG 1/2" Front Lift Spacers $34

Nisstec products:
Nisstec Axle Degree Shims $49
Nisstec U-Bolts $49
Total Chaos Upper Control Arms $710
OEM Nissan LCA Camber/Caster Bolts $55

= $2,694 :serious:

My question for Raine and anyone else is would you make any changes to this set up? Particularly anything that might save some money? I don't mind spending a bit more for a better product, and want to be ready (and then some) for exploring national forest and BLM lands this summer here in NorCal. Also the Kings from PRG don't seem to offer the compression adjusters you got; do I need to order directly through King for that upgrade?

One more thing, Raine do you know the specs for the bolts you replaced on your rock rings? Or do you remember where you ordered them from? I can't find the info anywhere online.

Thanks!
 

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Actually the 8-bitdo controllers have 8 buttons like the OG SNES controllers (Select, Start, 4x A/B/X/Y on the face, and 2x L/R shoulder buttons).

Plus, no one uses low punch and mid kick in StreetFighter. LOL ::wink::
Unless you use Akuma lol

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copycat w/ questions...

Hey everyone, after reading countless pages of this and other posts I think I'm finally ready to order my lift kit. Thanks for all the awesome info; Raine, I'm pretty sold on your set up, and after getting the same wheels & tires I'm in dire need of that extra 2.5" lift. Before I place orders for everything I was wondering if anyone had any advice on saving a little cash when it comes to different vendors or deals of any sort. Using Raine's build as a shopping list, here's what I'm looking at (links and prices included):

PRG products:
King Shocks 2.5" Custom Coilovers $1,449
Bilstein 5125 Shocks, for 2-3" Lift $189
PRG/Deaver 2-leaf AAL, 2.5" Lift $159
PRG 1/2" Front Lift Spacers $34

Nisstec products:
Nisstec Axle Degree Shims $49
Nisstec U-Bolts $49
Total Chaos Upper Control Arms $710
OEM Nissan LCA Camber/Caster Bolts $55

= $2,694

My question for Raine and anyone else is would you make any changes to your current set up? Particularly anything that might save some money? I don't mind spending a bit more for a better product, and want to be ready (and then some) for exploring national forest and BLM lands this summer here in NorCal. Also the Kings from PRG don't seem to offer the compression adjusters you got; do I have to order directly through King for that set up?

One last thing, Raine do you know the specs for the bolts you replaced on your rock rings? Or do you remember where you ordered them from?

Thanks!
 

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Registered
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9 Posts
copycat w/ questions...

Hey everyone, after reading countless pages of this and other posts I think I'm finally ready to order my lift kit. Thanks for all the awesome info; Raine, I'm pretty sold on your set up, and after getting the same wheels & tires I'm in dire need of that extra 2.5" lift. Before I place orders for everything I was wondering if anyone had any advice on saving a little cash when it comes to different vendors or deals of any sort. Using Raine's build as a shopping list, here's what I'm looking at:

PRG products:
King Shocks 2.5" Custom Coilovers $1,449
Bilstein 5125 Shocks, for 2-3" Lift $189
PRG/Deaver 2-leaf AAL, 2.5" Lift $159
PRG 1/2" Front Lift Spacers $34

Nisstec products:
Nisstec Axle Degree Shims $49
Nisstec U-Bolts $49
Total Chaos Upper Control Arms $710
OEM Nissan LCA Camber/Caster Bolts $55

= $2,694

My question for Raine and anyone else is would you make any changes to your current set up? Particularly anything that might save some money? I don't mind spending a bit more for a better product, and want to be ready (and then some) for exploring national forest and BLM lands this summer here in NorCal. Also the Kings from PRG don't seem to offer the compression adjusters you got; do I have to order directly through King for that upgrade?

One last thing: Raine do you know the specs for the bolts you replaced on your rock rings? Or do you remember where you ordered them from?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #596
Raine, I'm pretty sold on your set up, and after getting the same wheels & tires I'm in dire need of that extra 2.5" lift. Before I place orders for everything I was wondering if anyone had any advice on saving a little cash when it comes to different vendors or deals of any sort. Using Raine's build as a shopping list, here's what I'm looking at
Ask yourself if you really want/need to spend over $2,700 to get the almost-exact same suspension parts I did... because I didn't. ::wink::

My question for Raine and anyone else is would you make any changes to your current set up? Particularly anything that might save some money? I don't mind spending a bit more for a better product, and want to be ready (and then some) for exploring national forest and BLM lands this summer here in NorCal.
If you want to save money there's tons of other alternative parts options, read @JeniorNV's suspension lift sticky.

Also the Kings from PRG don't seem to offer the compression adjusters you got; do I have to order directly through King for that upgrade?
Not sure, I suppose you could try to order directly from King... but get ready to pay extra if you want the extra features (i.e. compression adjust) and any other custom tune/valving/etc. (my King shocks are not off-the-shelf)

One last thing: Raine do you know the specs for the bolts you replaced on your rock rings? Or do you remember where you ordered them from?
Someone asked me that in this thread a few posts back... IIRC I bought them from McMaster... don't remember the specs, that was like 3 years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #597 (Edited)
Side Note: Throughout the day I'll be going through each post in this thread to update all my image URLs, update any text, and thank anyone who commented that I didn't thank yet.

If anyone notices a missing image, please let me know so I can fix the link ::smile::

==============================================

Ignore the stuff below, I'm using it to keep track of the update progress.
Post #20
Post #71
Post #109
Post #161
Post #321
Post #431
Post #521
DONE yay
 

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Discussion Starter #598
Maintenance and a New Battery (02.27.18)

Last Sunday I noticed something weird with my truck - the windows seemed to roll up and down a little slower than before. I thought nothing of it until Monday morning when I got into my truck to go to work and... nothing. No cranking sound, no lights in the instrument cluster. I already knew what it was - battery time. I've been on the original battery since I bought the truck in 2014, so it was about time for a new one. I spent the day (at work, heh) researching what was immediately available. First I called a local Nissan dealership just to get a quote for an OEM battery - and they wanted $280, no thanks. I looked into AGM batteries but the only immediately available brand was Autozone's Duralast line, but I've had mixed results with Duralast in the past. Then I remembered that my parents' SUV has had the same battery in it (and still working just fine) for the last 5 years, so the next day I brought my dead OEM Nissan battery to... Costco!

Costco carries Interstate batteries, and I've always heard nothing but good experiences with the brand. Getting the new battery was fast and easy, I just gave them my dead battery (so no core charge) and walked out with a brand new group 35 Interstate battery (after paying, of course). The new Interstate battery is rated at 640-CCA (OEM is 550) with a reserve capacity of 100 minutes at 25-amps. Also, I was expecting a 3-year warranty, but apparently the new models now come with a 42-month (3 1/2 year) warranty. And the best part: it only cost me $70.


New battery, Interstate Group 35 640CCA.

Since I already took the day off, I decided to do some routine maintenance as well. After cleaning the battery terminals and installing the new Interstate battery, I went out to pick up a few things: new oil filter, 6 quarts of Mobil 1 5W-30, new OEM air filter and OEM cabin filter. I also checked and topped up the other fluids under the hood, checked my tire pressures, and greased up my UCA bushings.


Keeping the engine running happy.
 

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Last Sunday I noticed something weird with my truck - the windows seemed to roll up and down a little slower than before. I thought nothing of it until Monday morning when I got into my truck to go to work and... nothing. No cranking sound, no lights in the instrument cluster. I already knew what it was - battery time. I've been on the original battery since I bought the truck in 2014, so it was about time for a new one. I spent the day (at work, heh) researching what was immediately available. First I called a local Nissan dealership just to get a quote for an OEM battery - and they wanted $280, no thanks. I looked into AGM batteries but the only immediately available brand was Autozone's Duralast line, but I've had mixed results with Duralast in the past. Then I remembered that my parents' SUV has had the same battery in it (and still working just fine) for the last 5 years, so the next day I brought my dead OEM Nissan battery to... Costco!

Costco carries Interstate batteries, and I've always heard nothing but good experiences with the brand. Getting the new battery was fast and easy, I just gave them my dead battery (so no core charge) and walked out with a brand new group 35 Interstate battery (after paying, of course). The new Interstate battery is rated at 640-CCA (OEM is 550) with a reserve capacity of 100 minutes at 25-amps. Also, I was expecting a 3-year warranty, but apparently the new models now come with a 42-month (3 1/2 year) warranty. And the best part: it only cost me $70.


New battery, Interstate Group 35 640CCA.

Since I already took the day off, I decided to do some routine maintenance as well. After cleaning the battery terminals and installing the new Interstate battery, I went out to pick up a few things: new oil filter, 6 quarts of Mobil 1 5W-30, new OEM air filter and OEM cabin filter. I also checked and topped up the other fluids under the hood, checked my tire pressures, and greased up my UCA bushings.


Keeping the engine running happy.
I understand not adding a 300+ dollar CAI, but why not a drop in K&N or similar? I only ask out of curiosity and am interested in your take on it because you put a lot of thought and logic into what you do so there has to be a specific reason you went with a factory filter. Thanks in advance
 

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I understand not adding a 300+ dollar CAI, but why not a drop in K&N or similar? I only ask out of curiosity and am interested in your take on it because you put a lot of thought and logic into what you do so there has to be a specific reason you went with a factory filter. Thanks in advance
Because K&N oil cotton gauze filters are terrible as far as filtration and clogging goes. They do flow alot of air when they are clean, but also let through alot of debris. Amsoil use to have a reusable drop in dry media EA filter. they were pretty good but they stopped making them. I am still running one. I think the AEM is the best aftermarket reusable filter right now. But for what it is worth a modern paper element air filter is hard to beat.

Raine you also buy 6 quarts for every oil change. Not 5.
 
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