I know... I saw the typo and edited it before I replied to you hahaLol. Just kidding buddy. Excellent how-to.
Thank you sir
I know... I saw the typo and edited it before I replied to you hahaLol. Just kidding buddy. Excellent how-to.
Thank you sir
Love the looks of this. I just got shipped some external reservoir for my titan swap and have been looking at ideas for hoursContinuing the project, I picked up some more Grade-8 hardware and drilled and tapped a 1/4” hole into the bottom part of the new bracket. Instead of trying to match the threads in the chassis rail, I drilled a larger hole (3/8”) hole into the chassis rail for the back of the hose clamp bolt to clear.
More Grade-8 hardware means another trip to the hardware store after work.
Three mounting holes, one to clear the hose clamp bolt.
Hose clamp relocated to its new position.
The hose clamp bolt is actually threaded into the bracket, not the chassis rail behind it. The hose is clamped in a specific spot to hold the hose in its position, so if I ever have to unbolt the bracket I can do so without disturbing the hose clamping position.
With this done, next I painted the new brackets, then installed everything including the inner fender liners:
The most boring thing in the world is waiting for paint to dry.
As the final touch, I still wanted to keep my inner fender liners. After temporarily installing the fender liners (above), I eyeballed where I needed to cut and brought out the trusty Dremel. (Next few pics go back and forth between left and right sides):
Last thing to do, trim the inner fender liners.
Takes some maneuvering to get the fender liner in and out without removing the front wheels.
Close, but not quite there yet.
After trimming the fender liners just right, I was finally done:
The final install without the fender liner…
… and what it looks like with the fender liner back in place.
Wider shot. Can’t miss them now, I don’t think.
Another pic taken Easter Sunday afternoon.
So mission completed, albeit a little over a year after I first thought about doing the mod. Now, I'm debating on if I should re-paint the brackets flat black instead of the silvery color they are now.
EDIT 04.18.17: Wasn't feeling the silver after all, was off early from work Tuesday so I resprayed the brackets matte black:
That looks much better.
With the mud guards and metal fender trimmed, it was time to deal with the fender liners. I know a lot of people use a heatgun to mold the fender liner back for more clearance; I had a different idea that I was going to try with mine that didn't involve heating and melting. First I trimmed the lower portion of the rear edge of the fender liner (the part under the mud guard):
First I trimmed this portion from the bottom of the fender liner.
Portion removed, ege is still rough.
That piece I cut from the bottom of the fender liner wasn't so much related to the splash guards, but more related to the angled cut I made in the metal fender itself; I had to cut that plastic part off of the fender liner in order to change its angle to clear my tires. Of course, none of that would have fixed anything if I didn't trim the splash guard first, so all 3 things work together for added clearance.Question, If you did not have the mudflaps would you still have cut this piece out of the bottom? I've had your method in the back of my mind ever since I bought the truck but I didn't realize the mudflap covers that. I'm concerned without that little plastic piece there it would be an eyesore.
Just did this. Hardest part was finding a place that would cut the key. Orchard Supply said they couldn't. HD said they couldn't cut anything that they didn't have in their automated key dealio. So I found a Chinese Locksmith in Oakland that has great reviews. Key cut, the transponder swap and programming took 10 mins. This works well. Why they still have a separate fob and key is beyond me. Most of their other models don't. You'd think standardizing key design would ease supply chain woes.I finally got around to ordering and switching to a Nissan Rogue key. for those of you who may not know what the Rogue key looks like, here’s mine as it arrived in the mail, still uncut:
OEM Nissan Rogue key, not the aftermarket copy version.
Note that the keyless entry controls are part of the key head much like modern vehicles - meaning no more separate key and remote control fob. The whole job took me a total of 30 minutes - this included the 5 mile round trip drive to my local hardware store for the key cutting. This is an easy “mod”, but understand that I chose to use the existing transponder inside my valet key instead of going to the dealership to have them reprogram the new transponder in the Rogue key.
1. My OEM Nissan valet key (transponder type) or extra Master key
2. New OEM Nissan Rogue key/remote combo*
3. Knife or Thin Prying Tool
4. Phillips Screwdriver, Small
(*thanks to racquetballer for linking me to the Rogue key on eBay)
STEP 1: Before I started the swap, I took the Rogue key to get it cut to match my OEM master key. That way I could test if the actual mechanical portion of the key worked before doing any electronic stuff (transponder swap, programming). After the Rogue key was cut, I held my master key next to the ignition cylinder and then used the Rogue key to try to start the truck. It worked (tried with the key in both directions too) so the mechanical portion was finished.
STEP 2: Now on to the valet key. Using a small knife, I removed the transponder tray out of the valet key. The tray sits pretty flush inside the valet key head, so you have to just use the knife tip and slowly pry at the edge of the transponder tray until it pops out. It’s not glued or anything, it’s just a friction fit. Take your time here so you don't damage the key, the tray, or (most importantly) the transponder itself.
Here’s the transponder tray being removed from the OEM valet key.
A better look at how the transponder goes into the valet key.
UPDATE: IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE VALET KEY or have to use your 2nd Master key (with no transponder tray) you'll have to "dig out" the transponder from your 2nd Master key. This effectively destroys the 2nd Master key, but this might be okay with you since you're swapping to a Rogue key anyways. So if you are OK with digging out your transponder, take a look at this post for instructions.
STEP 3: Now switch to the Rogue key. Use a small Phillips screwdriver and remove the single screw first, then gently pry the two halves of the Rogue key head apart to reveal the insides. The key snaps together, so you'll need to use some medium force to pop it open. Once you have the halves separated, take a look at the battery half of the key, and you’ll easily see the transponder location (as well as an aftermarket transponder already installed).
Rogue key opened up, there’s the transponder near the battery.
STEP 4: Since I was going to use my valet key transponder, I pried out the aftermarket transponder from the Rogue key, then inserted my valet key transponder in its place.
Swapping transponders in the Rogue key.
STEP 5: With my transponder in place, it was time to reassemble the Rogue key.
Don’t forget to reinstall the small Phillips screw.
At this point I tested if the key would start the truck, and this time it did it on its own; I no longer had to hold the master key next to the ignition cylinder since the Rogue key now had its own matched transponder. The only thing left was to program the remote buttons to communicate with my truck.
Some people go to the dealer for this, but I was specifically avoiding having to go to the dealership since I knew that I could find instructions online to program the remote myself. Let me tell you - it’s really, really easy to do. There's more in-depth instructions online on how to do this, but here's how I did it:
PROGRAMMING ROGUE KEY/"SWITCHBLADE KEY" REMOTE BUTTONS
1. Open the door, sit in the driver's seat, and close all doors.
2. Lock doors using the lock switch on the door. This is important!
3. Insert the Master key completely and remove it completely at least 6 times (within 10 seconds).
4. If you did step #3 right, when you remove the Master key the last time, the flashers should blink twice.
5. Insert new Rogue key into ignition cylinder.
6.Turn the Rogue key to the "ACC" position.
7. Press any button on Rogue key - the flashers should blink twice, confirming programming.
8. Remove key, unlock doors, exit the vehicle and test the keyless buttons.
EDIT: Further research explained that you can only program 4 remotes per vehicle. Most people get two master keys and one valet key, so that's #1-3. Programming a Rogue key makes it #4 so for most people, you can stop here. However, if you have had a key replaced (or are unsure if there's only 3 slots programmed) you can go a step further by repeating the above steps for each of your existing keys. The reason for this is because if there's already 4 keys programmed in, and you add the Rogue key programming, the vehicle will forget the oldest programmed remote. The last thing you want to have happen is need to use that "oldest" programmed remote and find out that it doesn't work!
The online instructions show a different way to program multiple keys but I just did the above steps for each of my existing keys for the same result. By programming all of your existing keys and the Rogue key at the same time, you can ensure that all of your keys work.
Cut, programmed, and good to go!
Good to hear... I went to a local Ace Hardware, I knew they could cut the key because they do it old school with a manual key cutting machineJust did this. Hardest part was finding a place that would cut the key. Orchard Supply said they couldn't. HD said they couldn't cut anything that they didn't have in their automated key dealio. So I found a Chinese Locksmith in Oakland that has great reviews. Key cut, the transponder swap and programming took 10 mins. This works well. Why they still have a separate fob and key is beyond me. Most of their other models don't. You'd think standardizing key design would ease supply chain woes.
Going straight it's fine... but I turn hard and I run without the front swaybar, so there's more lean LOLInteresting that 0 degrees with the TC's are giving you uneven tire wear. i noticed stock the truck looks like it has some negative camber (which i personally hate the look of) but some cars are like that... that kind of sucks that you can't get any negative with the TC arms! those were the ones i would have gotten.
I've been happy with my SPCs, and I went with them over other UCAs because of the extra camber adjustment they afford. I did have to trim the coil bucket a little to get clearance for the ball joint at the camber setting I needed.Small update - after a little over 2 years with the current setup, I'm looking into possibly changing UCAs and tires. with the current Total Chaos upper arms I am maxxed out on camber adjustment (0-degrees flat) but my tire wear looks like I need some negative camber, and the SPC UCAs have that adjustment available (don't want to go PRG because of the inner solid ball joints). Also looking at maybe Falken Wildpeak A/T3Ws in the "SL" load range, as I don't really carry heavy loads + I don't go off-road as much as I thought (but I still want an A/T just in case).
Last time it was checked, yeah... so who knows. I'm probably also using this as an excuse for looking into new tires because the KO2's have gotten louder, especially in the 50-60mph range.I've been happy with my SPCs, and I went with them over other UCAs because of the extra camber adjustment they afford. I did have to trim the coil bucket a little to get clearance for the ball joint at the camber setting I needed.
Is your toe in spec?
I like the ride on pavement without the OEM swaybar... I removed mine way back, it's been sitting in the garage ever since.I took the swaybar off of mine when I did the lift. I guess I maybe should have rode with it on to see if I should take it off. Feels fine to me but then again I never drove it after the lift with it on. Hmmm I was actually debating tossing it this weekend while cleaning out the garage
Hi Raine, i like the build, keira is beautiful. Question, so im looking through your build thread and not seeing detail on how you mounted the amp wood platforms to the cab floor to keep them level? Or are they floating on the higher edges of the flooring or secured and leveled in some other way? Thanks again for all the great info.The extended Memorial Day weekend gave me some time to do some stuff to the truck. I was having a weird issue with the DRC-200 control knob on my JL Audio TwK-88 DSP but the always excellent customer service from JL Audio came through with a replacement unit for free. Since I had to remove the center console and passenger seat to swap out the knob and cables, I decided to use this opportunity to also get some work done on the under-seat platforms.
I added a rear-channel amplifier to round out the audio system.
But first, about the Kenwood: When I upgraded the rear speakers to the DCX-165.3’s I also needed 2 more channels of rear-fill amplification in order to have full control of the entire system through the TwK-88. I needed to find a two channel amp that could do at least 100-watts RMS and was small enough to fit next to the TwK-88 underneath the passenger seat area. I actually found what I needed in the Kenwood KAC-M3004 Class-D marine amplifier which has a bridged rating of 150w x 2. This matched up great with the 120w maximum rating of the DCX-165.3’s, and the amp’s small size (6-1/2" x 1-3/4" x 3-7/8") would easily fit underneath the passenger seat.
Okay - back to the under-seat platforms. Back in October of 2016 I posted this a couple photos of the driver’s side platform in progress:
For the passenger side, I arranged the DSP and Kenwood rear-fill amp like so:
After debating on how to finish the platforms, I decided to keep it simple - primer and then a couple coats of satin black:
While waiting for the paint to dry I got a lot of small things done. Along with swapping out the DRC-200, I also gave the truck a wash, did some spot cleaning on the front carpet area, vacuumed the interior, wiped down all the interior plastics, and checked all the fluids under the hood. By the time I was done, the paint was dry and the panels were ready to install back into the truck. First, the main “amp rack” underneath the driver’s side front seat for the Alpine PDX-V9 amp:
Next, the “processor rack” underneath the passenger’s side front seat; The TwK-88 was bolted in place and I connected all the cables:
TwK-88 goes in first;
…followed by the Kenwood MAC-M3004 amplifier:
…and the Kenwood amp fits right beside it.
So with that done, I no longer have bare wooden panels sitting under the seats. The only thing left to do was re-install the front seats and center console, and I was done. I still have the accent lights underneath the seats, this is what the passenger side looks like now (with the red LEDs on):
Not bad for an afternoon of work