That is one sexy bike you built. Commencal has moved their HQ to my small town - so if you need something from them, I can help you out.
It's called "HPP" (High Pivot Point). Unlike most F/S bikes, the main pivot on this frame is at the top of the rear triangle (not at the bottom near the bottom bracket like most F/S designs). When the rear suspension compresses, the rear wheel upward AND backward, so the wheelbase actually gets longer (not shorter like others). Because of this, the chain has to loop around the main pivot location to accommodate for chain growth.I have never seen a chainline like that before. What's the advantage of that? Beautiful bike, btw! Have fun ripping!
It's called "HPP" (High Pivot Point). Unlike most F/S bikes, the main pivot on this frame is at the top of the rear triangle (not at the bottom near the bottom bracket like most F/S designs). When the rear suspension compresses, the rear wheel upward AND backward, so the wheelbase actually gets longer (not shorter like others). Because of this, the chain has to loop around the main pivot location to accommodate for chain growth.
If you understood that, great. If not, yeah... good talk LOL
Remember that a chain is a constant length. Your Trek has a conventional suspension design (low main pivot) and a conventional chain "route" - meaning the "upper chain" segment goes from cassette to crank/chainring, and the "lower chain" segment goes from crank/chainring to cassette (through the rear derailleur). When your suspension is compressed, the low pivot makes the rear wheel move up and forward. The "upper chain" distance gets shorter and the "lower chain" distance gets longer. The rear derailleur takes care of this by using more chain underneath, by taking up the slack from the upper part. Practically 99% of all full suspension bikes work like this.I hear ya cluckin'! I ride a Trek Fuel EX with a low pivot design (near the BB) which like you said has a shorter pivot-to-axle distance upon compression. But with the HPP, couldn't the rear der cage accommodate the increase in chainstay length? I might be missing something in picturing the suspension travel still...
Yessir... well you also have to run the new wiring harness to the battery, and either splice into your OEM fog switch or run the new one.Question about your Rigid LED fog lights... If I get the kit below, the only thing i'd have to do is shave off those 4 tabs you showed in your pictures?
From your pictures it looks like I could use these to really supplement my headlights, and $300 is alot less than $900 for projectors.
Anymore details or pics on how you went about wring the fogs to both switches? Id like to set mine up the same way. Also, you convinced me to go with the rigids however, I might have to make custom brackets for them.Last weekend the nice UPS lady dropped of my brand new Rigid Industries D-Series LED Driving Lamps:
They say brighter is always better… when it’s dark.
After researching all the different kinds of lamps they have (and they have a lot!) I selected the DOT/SAE certified versions, which meet federal requirements to be used on the road. In other words: they’re street legal, which is what I was looking for since I was going to install them into the factory fog lamp locations. These lights have a wide angle and a sharp, flat cutoff at the top. They’re also pretty hefty - the aluminum housings have some weight to them, they feel really solid. One Rigid D-Series is more than twice the weight of the OEM fog lamp and the Morimoto fog lamp combined - makes sense seeing as the OEM and Morimoto are almost entirely made of plastic. Here’s a pic of the OEM Nissan fog lamp next to the Morimoto XB-Series Type-S LED lamp, next to the new Rigid D-Series:
Left to right: OEM Frontier, Morimoto XB Type-S, Rigid Industries D-Series
And now let’s get to the install. The first thing I did was remove the Morimoto XB-Series fog lamps from the truck (sold already, don't ask). Next, instead of using the included Rigid wire harness, I made my own custom length harness using 14-ga wire and a relay socket (no pics, it’s boring to look at) and made the necessary connections to be able to run the D-Series lamps off of my factory fog lamp switch. 12v main power and ground were hooked up to my BlueSea fuse block. With the wiring out of the way, it was time to install the actual LED driving lamps.
The kit included a Nissan Frontier-specific mounting bracket and hardware, but it’s not 100% bolt-on; some mild modifications needed to be done to the OEM fog lamp brackets. No problem - I used my Dremel and trimmed off the 4 guide tabs on the bracket. Doing this doesn’t affect the OEM fog lamp mounting, so if I ever want to go back to stock, I still can:
Trimmed fog lamp bracket on the left, stock bracket on the right.
Next was the actual D-Series lamp and adaptor plate, which attached to the OEM fog lamp bracket using the OEM Torx screws. The plate had a nice textured finish to it:
Metal adaptor plate attaches to the OEM factory fog lamp bracket.
Finally, the front trim plate. The installation of the front trim plate was simple but there was a noticeable gap between the trim plate and where the mounting screws go. If I tightened the screws too much, it would bend the trim plate. I first used a combination of the included metal washer and five 0.5mm plastic shims to get the spacing just right to where I can tighten down the mounting screws properly. Then I realized I was putting thin plastic shims up against an aluminum heatsink housing (not good!) so I took it all apart again. After a little searching in the garage, I found some 2.5mm aluminum spacers to resolve the issue.
Initially I used plastic shims, then realized the mistake and I replaced them with aluminum, heh.
With the whole thing put together, time to bolt them inside the bumper:
Rigid D-Series assembly installed into the front bumper. King reservoir cameo.
From the outside, they’re not that noticeable or flashy when the truck is just sitting there. The only telltale sign that these are aftermarket is the square lens shape inside a round bumper hole:
Squares in round holes. Okay.
Of course, if you actually look closely, you’ll see the Rigid brand name stamped into the aluminum frame:
They shaped the front trim plate so it won’t block the Rigid Industries name.
They turn on, so that meant the wiring was right, heh.
I still have to get the aim right, that evening after I installed them I fired them up for the first time and wow - they're really bright! However they were aimed way too high, so I'll have to properly aim them next. When I get the aim corrected, I'll post photos to show the end result. Side note: now I really have to do something about my headlamps, because the light color of the Phillips halogens don't look right with the Rigid 5500k LEDs!
EDIT: After installing the D-Series LED driving lamps, I spent the next Saturday reconfiguring the wiring of my high beams, D-Series LED lamps, the Xterra Switch, and the PIAA 520 Lamps. Afterward, my front lights now work as follows:
- PIAA 520 Lamps activated by headlamp high beams only (no more dedicated switched control)
- Rigid D2 LED Lamps normally activated by OEM fog switch on the light stalk; AND
- Rigid D2 LED Lamps optionally activated independently using the Xterra Switch
- Headlamps, Rigid D2 LED Lamps, and PIAA 520 Lamps can all be on at the same time, if needed
- Xterra Switch now connected to a 12v switched power source
- Rigid D2 LED Lamps can be turned on at any time as long as the key is in ACC or ON
The last two I did as a safety - as long as the light stalk is on "OFF" and the key is out of the ignition, I don't have to worry about a dead battery if I accidentally leave the D-Series LEDs on.
Light output photos in post #438
I'll whip up a diagram for you in the next couple daysAnymore details or pics on how you went about wring the fogs to both switches? Id like to set mine up the same way. Also, you convinced me to go with the rigids however, I might have to make custom brackets for them.
Thats awesome man, thank you very much! I ordered the actual rigid fog mounts from Hefty Fab and plan to get those D2's in a day or two!