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My front light bar mounts to the same front tow points and the tow hooks fit right over the light bar mount plates down there, I just needed longer bolts. If the radiator skid had a large enough flat plane where it mounts, it might be the same *shrug*
 

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Discussion Starter #482
My front light bar mounts to the same front tow points and the tow hooks fit right over the light bar mount plates down there, I just needed longer bolts. If the radiator skid had a large enough flat plane where it mounts, it might be the same *shrug*
Well considering that the vertical part of the P&P recovery point is very thick, and the mounting holes are centered, you'd need clearance for the thick vertical plate alongside the side wall of an aftermarket skid (if it mounts at the tow bolts). The factory tow hook mounting surface is pretty narrow compared to the P&P part
 

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Discussion Starter #484

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Discussion Starter #485 (Edited)
Kenwood Rear Channel Amplifier & Custom Under-Seat Platforms (05.27.17)

(UPDATE 04.05.18: Replaced rear amp, see #642)

The extended Memorial Day weekend gave me some time to do some stuff to the truck. I was having a weird issue with the DRC-200 control knob on my JL Audio TwK-88 DSP but the always excellent customer service from JL Audio came through with a replacement unit for free. Since I had to remove the center console and passenger seat to swap out the knob and cables, I decided to use this opportunity to also get some work done on the under-seat platforms.


I added a rear-channel amplifier to round out the audio system.

But first, about the Kenwood: When I upgraded the rear speakers to the DCX-165.3’s I also needed 2 more channels of rear-fill amplification in order to have full control of the entire system through the TwK-88. I needed to find a two channel amp that could do at least 100-watts RMS and was small enough to fit next to the TwK-88 underneath the passenger seat area. I actually found what I needed in the Kenwood KAC-M3004 Class-D marine amplifier which has a bridged rating of 150w x 2. This matched up great with the 120w maximum rating of the DCX-165.3’s, and the amp’s small size (6-1/2" x 1-3/4" x 3-7/8") would easily fit underneath the passenger seat.

Okay - back to the under-seat platforms. Back in October of 2016 I posted this a couple photos of the driver’s side platform in progress:





For the passenger side, I arranged the DSP and Kenwood rear-fill amp like so:



After debating on how to finish the platforms, I decided to keep it simple - primer and then a couple coats of satin black:





While waiting for the paint to dry I got a lot of small things done. Along with swapping out the DRC-200, I also gave the truck a wash, did some spot cleaning on the front carpet area, vacuumed the interior, wiped down all the interior plastics, and checked all the fluids under the hood. By the time I was done, the paint was dry and the panels were ready to install back into the truck. First, the main “amp rack” underneath the driver’s side front seat for the Alpine PDX-V9 amp:



Next, the “processor rack” underneath the passenger’s side front seat; The TwK-88 was bolted in place and I connected all the cables:


TwK-88 goes in first;

…followed by the Kenwood MAC-M3004 amplifier:


…and the Kenwood amp fits right beside it.

So with that done, I no longer have bare wooden panels sitting under the seats. The only thing left to do was re-install the front seats and center console, and I was done. I still have the accent lights underneath the seats, this is what the passenger side looks like now (with the red LEDs on):



Not bad for an afternoon of work :)
 

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Discussion Starter #488
Wow just noticed, 101,000+ thread views ::smile::
 

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Discussion Starter #490 (Edited)
Posted this in another thread about decals, I'll just leave it here as well:



All custom cut using a Roland vinyl cutter I have at home. That way the color scheme matches as well as the decal sizing ::smile::
 

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raine - just wondering how the rear dif breather mod has held up for you? I noticed you have been through a bit of water and if running it up behind the taillight is even needed that others have done?

Thx
 

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Discussion Starter #493
raine - just wondering how the rear dif breather mod has held up for you? I noticed you have been through a bit of water and if running it up behind the taillight is even needed that others have done?
I actually checked on this about a week ago while I had the truck up on a lift (tire balance and rotation) and it was dirty... on the outside. I wiped it with a rag and the actual filter inside is still as good as new.

do you have defrosters or your rear window?
That's a reflection of the lines in the building behind my truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #495 (Edited)
Car Audio Diagram

This morning some random person stopped me on the way out of Starbucks drive-thru (that's the second time now... yeah, weird) and said "I've seen your truck online!" Then asked me some questions about my audio. Turned out to be a nice guy, they requested I put a diagram of my setup on "the Frontier forum" which I'm sure means here, as I'm not on any other forum LOL so here it is:

UPDATE: System diagram is posted here.
 

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Discussion Starter #496 (Edited)
Off-Road Gorilla Hood Rod Eliminator

I saw this posted in another thread and I ordered a set right away just like the other members - it's a Hood Strut Kit/Hood Rod Eliminator from Off-Road Gorilla. Pretty self explanatory by the name: it lets you remove the hood prop rod and replace it with a pair of gas-charged struts. The whole kit is bolt-on, and literally took me 10 minutes to install. Also, although I didn't take full step-by-step photos, I did manage to snap some pics.

Tools needed: 10mm socket, 12mm socket, flathead screwdriver. Start with the right passenger side first, you'll read why in a little bit.


Nothing complicated at all in the kit. Note the two smaller brackets are not used.


Passenger-side lower bracket installed on the fender area.

ABOVE: The kit doesn't come with any hardware, because you use existing bolts and nuts. Above, the lower bracket is held in position by one of the 10mm fender bolts. The left side lower bracket installs in the same fashion.

INSTALL TIP: Start with the right side, loosen and remove the lower hood nut. Then with your left hand, pinch the hood and the hood bracket at the top edge and hold it together. While holding the hood and bracket together, loosen and remove the upper hood nut with your right hand.

At this point the hood will only be attached to the left hinge, but don't worry - you don't need that much effort to hold the hood and bracket together, and this will help keep it aligned. Now, using your right hand, put the ORG bracket on the bolts and hand tighten the nuts. Then finish up with your 12mm socket.


Passenger-side upper bracket installed under the hood.

ABOVE: The upper brackets install using the existing 12mm nuts that hold the hood to the hinges.


The hood struts pop into place in seconds with little effort.

ABOVE: Unlike what is shown in the instructions on their website, the struts have been updated to pop-on units. The ends have retaining clips, so you literally just pop them onto the ball end and you're done.

Remember how I mentioned earlier to start with the right side first? That's because it's the easiest to do, and once you have the right side strut installed, it will already be strong enough to hold the hood up on its own while you work on the left. This is key because now you can remove the stock hood prop rod and prop rod retainer clip. I did not take photos of this, but to remove the prop rod just flip it forward then twist it upwards slowly until it just pops out of the fender. As for the prop rod retaining clip (which is obviously no longer needed), use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry it out of the inner fender without breaking it. You do have to remove this clip, as it sits where the left strut will be when the hood is closed.


Left hood strut installed, hood prop rod already removed.


The hood strut kit adds more clearance.

ABOVE: Off-Road Gorilla claims that their kit will let the hood open up an additional 5 inches. I did not measure beforehand, but considering that there's now a 3 inch gap between the stock hood prop rod and the rod hole, I think their claim is accurate.


There is still ample clearance for my modded antenna, too.

ABOVE: One thing that worried me was if the hood would open up too much and end up hitting my Firestik Antenna Mod, since it's a lot thicker in diameter compared to the stock antenna in the same location. However as you can see in the photo above, there's still ample clearance.


Obligatory engine photo.

Install was completed in about 10 minutes by myself. It's a simple mod that does exactly what it's supposed to do, at a pretty decent price ($65 shipped!). I would definitely recommend this kit for sure.
::grin::
 

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I was reviewing different sliders and that snowballed into reading all 50 pages of your build thread... First off, well done. The build looks awesome and your level of detail/documentation is insane!

Secondly, I just moved to SLO county from the midwest. If you find yourself up in this area and want someone to ride bikes or go wheeling with, get in touch! I'm still discovering all the mtb trails out here, but I work for a cycling company and the people here have everything scoped out.

I'm still building up my rig, but the White Knuckle sliders are probably next. Then the rear suspension, followed by the front. At least I have the bikes/racks situation figured out!
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #498
I was reviewing different sliders and that snowballed into reading all 50 pages of your build thread... First off, well done. The build looks awesome and your level of detail/documentation is insane!

Secondly, I just moved to SLO county from the midwest. If you find yourself up in this area and want someone to ride bikes or go wheeling with, get in touch! I'm still discovering all the mtb trails out here, but I work for a cycling company and the people here have everything scoped out.

I'm still building up my rig, but the White Knuckle sliders are probably next. Then the rear suspension, followed by the front. At least I have the bikes/racks situation figured out!
For sure... yeah I recommend White Knuckle Sliders 100%. Not only is the build quality top shelf, but if you get in touch with them over email or the phone, they're really nice, honest people.

PM me what cycling company you work for... just curious haha ::grin::
 

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Not only is the build quality top shelf, but if you get in touch with them over email or the phone, they're really nice, honest people.
Plus it gives me an extra incentive to visit family in LA, then pop over to Apple Valley and save some money on shipping. :thumbup:
 
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