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Nice job man! I get some speaker noise with engine acceleration, kinda sounds like a wind up toy, is it related to the small ground cable?
Anyone know if a thread exists for that?

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100% ground wire. Could be amp ground, HU ground or a random ground loop. It is usually the amp or HU (headunit) ground since the static noise starts once aftermarket radio equipment is installed.
Big3 is to give more power from alt, battery etc...
 

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100% ground wire. Could be amp ground, HU ground or a random ground loop. It is usually the amp or HU (headunit) ground since the static noise starts once aftermarket radio equipment is installed.
Big3 is to give more power from alt, battery etc...
Right on, thanks West1

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Right on, thanks West1

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OP, delete my post if its derailing your awesome build.


@rios, if multiple amps, turn car off and power down one amp at a time to see if you can find the culprit. Once found, using a multimeter you can find a good ground for your amp. I have both amps to my chasis under rear driver seat. With long speaker wire, tie it to Battery Negative. Then connect speaker wire to multimeter negative and find your ground with the multimeter positive.
 

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Discussion Starter #444
Nice. With all the electronics upgrade, did you do the big3 or is that the only ground wire you upgraded?
Looked through the whole thread, great job!!!!
I just upgraded the engine-to-chassis ground since it was obviously a lot thinner than the OEM battery ground and OEM battery-to-alternator cables. I'm still running the OEM alternator so the OEM battery cables are just fine... without getting into a "Big 3" discussion, at this point there's no need to change the other 2 unless I upgrade to a high-output aftermarket alternator. The stock setup has been handling the audio just fine, if anything I will upgrade the actual battery first before considering changing the other 2 of the "Big 3".
 

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I just upgraded the engine-to-chassis ground since it was obviously a lot thinner than the OEM battery ground and OEM battery-to-alternator cables. I'm still running the OEM alternator so the OEM battery cables are just fine... without getting into a "Big 3" discussion, at this point there's no need to change the other 2 unless I upgrade to a high-output aftermarket alternator. The stock setup has been handling the audio just fine, if anything I will upgrade the actual battery first before considering changing the other 2 of the "Big 3".
Got it.
I've read here about our positive battery terminal that has some type of voltmeter of some sort. Which is why I was asking, in case you got to that before I did lol (I am upgrading to HO alt and big3 for a sound system upgrade).

Keep your build coming, it's a pleasure to read them!
 

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Discussion Starter #446 (Edited)
100% ground wire. Could be amp ground, HU ground or a random ground loop. It is usually the amp or HU (headunit) ground since the static noise starts once aftermarket radio equipment is installed.
Big3 is to give more power from alt, battery etc...
Absolutely agree - it's a grounding issue of some sort.

@ Rios_rub - I don't know what audio setup you have, but if you turn the head unit off, do you still get the "wind up" sound? If not, then for sure it's audio related. Next, keep the radio on but unplug the speakers. If the sound goes away, it's something with the speaker wiring. If the sound is still there, it's head unit-related. Could be something as simple as a loose ground.

Big3 is to give more power from alt, battery etc...
I didn't want to get into this discussion LOL but that's incorrect - doing the Big3 does not give more power, it just clears the way for more power if you upgrade the other parts (alternator, battery) that actually provide the power.

Got it.
I've read here about our positive battery terminal that has some type of voltmeter of some sort. Which is why I was asking, in case you got to that before I did lol (I am upgrading to HO alt and big3 for a sound system upgrade).

Keep your build coming, it's a pleasure to read them!
IIRC I think it's the ground cable that has the "measuring thing" just a few inches from the terminal, I know there's a thread about it elsewhere on the forum but I don't have the link at the moment.

But yeah, the main 12v+ and negative battery cables are pretty thick already, not like 0-gauge thick but when I compared to my 4-gauge the difference was so small that it wasn't worth all the work to swap without going thicker.
 

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awesome build thread. took me 2 days to get thru it. makes me want to start a build thread just to keep a record of things i do to my truck. I've only added window visors and bed cover but i feel like its not enough yet to start a build thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #448
awesome build thread. took me 2 days to get thru it. makes me want to start a build thread just to keep a record of things i do to my truck. I've only added window visors and bed cover but i feel like its not enough yet to start a build thread.
Thanks

Everyone starts somewhere, who says you can't start your own build thread?
 

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Wow!!!!

This was the best chapter book I ever read in my whole entire life @raine! ::grin::This book was interesting from beginning to end!::wink::It also took me 2 days to get through the whole shebang but it was worth it. ::laugh:: I was reading through other forum member's build threads and they were nowhere interesting as yours! After reading this, I felt like I wanted to go buy a used Fronty and dump my wallet all over it!!!! (Will most probably do this in the future) Even tho I am not a DIY person, this thread was amazing and understandable. :nerd: (I get all my mods done at my local and preferred auto styling shop! I have no xp with these things and the guys at my shop are pretty professional and clean when it comes to getting the mods done. They do not rip up the dash just to install a camera cough cough BestBuy :serious: and since I have been a long time customer, they give me discounts on every mod I get them to do!!!!::smile::::smile::::smile::)

Suggestion: Since you were a ASE-Certified Technician once, you should open an auto styling shop. That way you can have a job that you enjoy doing rather that you "have" to do. Plus, you can steal other Fronty customers from the nearby auto styling shop!>:D (If you opened one, I come and drive from here (Texas) to your place (Cali).
 

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Good catch!

During an air filter change as part of regular maintenance I stumbled upon this:


Thinnest ground wire ever.

No problem, I had some extra 4-gauge power cable from my amplifier install, so I bought some ring terminals and made this:


New ground cable up top, OEM wire on the bottom. Big difference!

...and installed it. Took all but 5 minutes after the soldering iron was hot. Now the engine block has a much better ground:

Proper ground cable.
I really never noticed this under the hood (imma take a look at it when I get the chance). For me, safety is the number one priority so a grounding wire with that thinness is potential accident waiting to happen.

Thanks for noticing this @raine::wink::

(I apologize for responding to an old post. I just got my Fronty last week and I am a newbie to the Frontier, still trying to learn and xpand my knowledge on my lil Fronty. I am not new to Nissan tho)::grin::
 

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Discussion Starter #451
Suggestion: Since you were a ASE-Certified Technician once, you should open an auto styling shop. That way you can have a job that you enjoy doing rather that you "have" to do. Plus, you can steal other Fronty customers from the nearby auto styling shop!>:D (If you opened one, I come and drive from here (Texas) to your place (Cali).
But then it would become a job, and it won't be enjoyable anymore. Plus, if I went that route I'd rather open a mountain bike shop first. Or a chicken rental place, because they're easier to manage than alpacas.

I really never noticed this under the hood (imma take a look at it when I get the chance). For me, safety is the number one priority so a grounding wire with that thinness is potential accident waiting to happen.

Thanks for noticing this @raine::wink::

(I apologize for responding to an old post. I just got my Fronty last week and I am a newbie to the Frontier, still trying to learn and xpand my knowledge on my lil Fronty. I am not new to Nissan tho)::grin::
If the post was helpful then it did its job
 

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raine, I am gonna put an aftermarket unit in my truck, I ordered

Main Harness: Metra 20-pin Harness, Ordered
OEM Steering Wheel Control Adaptor: Axxess ASWC-1, had one lying around
OEM AM/FM Antenna Adaptor: Metra 40-NI12 (included with head unit purchase) had one lying around
OEM USB Adaptor: Axxess AX-NISUSB-2, ordered
OEM Rear Camera Adaptor: Axxess AX-NIS32SWC, not sure if this is needed, my truck has NO camera (from factory)
Aux. Front Camera: Pyle PLCM38FRV, not nedded



concerning this part
OEM Rear Camera Adaptor: Axxess AX-NIS32SWC, not sure if this is needed, my truck has NO camera (from factory)
is there another harness for input of the camera
or do I need to make one?
 

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Discussion Starter #453
raine, I am gonna put an aftermarket unit in my truck, I ordered

Main Harness: Metra 20-pin Harness, Ordered
OEM Steering Wheel Control Adaptor: Axxess ASWC-1, had one lying around
OEM AM/FM Antenna Adaptor: Metra 40-NI12 (included with head unit purchase) had one lying around
OEM USB Adaptor: Axxess AX-NISUSB-2, ordered
OEM Rear Camera Adaptor: Axxess AX-NIS32SWC, not sure if this is needed, my truck has NO camera (from factory)
Aux. Front Camera: Pyle PLCM38FRV, not nedded



concerning this part
OEM Rear Camera Adaptor: Axxess AX-NIS32SWC, not sure if this is needed, my truck has NO camera (from factory)
is there another harness for input of the camera
or do I need to make one?
If you don't have the factory camera then you won't need it. AX-NIS32SWC is only needed if you're going to use the factory wiring that connects to the factory rear camera. I don't think it's worth the trouble to try to splice into the factory harness to try to make it work with an aftermarket camera, probably much easier just to run your own wires. Depending on how you want the Pyle camera to work (I have the exact same one) you have 2 ways to wire it up:

1. The camera requires 3 wires and an RCA cable (power, switched, ground, and video) At minimum you'll have to run the RCA video cable from the head unit to the camera. Power for the camera can be spliced into the trailer connector at the tailgate, and you can activate the camera by splicing into the taillamp reverse bulb harness.

2. If your head unit allows you to control the camera (and you want this feature) you will have to run the RCA plus a 2-wire harness from head unit to the rear. 1 wire will provide switched 12v to power the camera; 1 wire will connect to your head unit's "reverse signal" wire; ground you can connect to any bolt under the bed or splice into one of the taillamp harnesses.
 

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Discussion Starter #454 (Edited)
Painted Stock Radiator Skid (04.09.17)

Noticed some light rusting on my stock radiator skid, The only time I can think that I hit stuff with it was way back during the river crossings at Azusa Canyon, so it must have been like that this whole time. Anyhow, I sprayed the skid with some rust converting primer, followed by a color called “stainless steel” by Duplicolor (I was interested in seeing exactly what this paint color looked like in real life). It’s not that noticeable since it’s underneath the vehicle in the shadows, unless you actually look at it and compare the color of the skid to the rest of the chassis.


Second layer of primer shown here.


So I guess this is what Duplicolor Stainless Steel” looks like.


Not glossy, not matte. I kind of like this color.

I know, it's nothing exciting... next mod will have a ton of pics =)
 

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Discussion Starter #455 (Edited)
Custom External Reservoir Mount, Part 1 (04.14.17)

For those subbed, you might recall that way back in Feb. of 2016 I posted this in my build thread:

King includes specific mounting brackets that are attached to the chassis using the tow hook bolts. However, they position the external reservoirs towards the forward part of the front fender, just behind the fender liners. This means they’re hidden.. but I don’t want them hidden! I’m going to have some custom brackets tabbed up to mount the reservoirs somewhere higher up (maybe next to the UCA brackets) but that’s for a later time.

About a month later I posted this pic:



And then nothing… until a year later (LOL) I posted these two pics:





So here we are, and I decided to finish the idea/project with what I had. I had this whole plan where I’d get the brackets welded to the frame rails, then I realized that if ever I had to get to the alternator, the right side bracket would block access. The best way would be to bolt the brackets onto the frame rail, which meant drilling into the frame and tapping the holes (due to the fully boxed frame rail).

This whole process took a few days to do, starting with a couple hours of daylight after work during the week, and then finishing up last Saturday. First part of this mod involved a lot of drilling, starting with getting the reservoir holders attached to the bracket:


Bracket on the left, wood mock-up on the right.


Grade-8 hardware, of course.


Mounting holes drilled in the main plate.

Turning to the chassis, I marked the holes using the brackets as my template, drilled the holes, then tapped threads into the chassis rail for 3/8”-20 bolts. I used a cordless 20v drill, titanium drill bits, and this amazing stuff called “Tap Magic”. I stumbled upon it at the hardware store when I was buying some stuff, it’s cutting fluid and just one drop made drilling metal much easier. Okay picture time:


Should have used a silver paint pen, but I can see this.


Using some “Tap Magic” cutting fluid on the drill bits made this part easy.


3/8” bolts test fitting to check that the threads are good.


Test fit the actual bracket, so far so good.

Looking at the image above, I realized that the small hose clamp at the bottom was attached to the bracket provided by King, which meant that I’d have to figure out a new place to put the hose clamp since the King bracket won’t be there anymore when I remove it. I also had to pick up some grade-8 hardware for mounting the new bracket.

(to be continued next post)
 

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Discussion Starter #456 (Edited)
Custom External Reservoir Mount, Part 2 (04.15.17)

Continuing the project, I picked up some more Grade-8 hardware and drilled and tapped a 1/4” hole into the bottom part of the new bracket. Instead of trying to match the threads in the chassis rail, I drilled a larger hole (3/8”) hole into the chassis rail for the back of the hose clamp bolt to clear.


More Grade-8 hardware means another trip to the hardware store after work.


Three mounting holes, one to clear the hose clamp bolt.


Hose clamp relocated to its new position.

The hose clamp bolt is actually threaded into the bracket, not the chassis rail behind it. The hose is clamped in a specific spot to hold the hose in its position, so if I ever have to unbolt the bracket I can do so without disturbing the hose clamping position.

With this done, next I painted the new brackets, then installed everything including the inner fender liners:


The most boring thing in the world is waiting for paint to dry.


Done! Wait…

As the final touch, I still wanted to keep my inner fender liners. After temporarily installing the fender liners (above), I eyeballed where I needed to cut and brought out the trusty Dremel. (Next few pics go back and forth between left and right sides):


Last thing to do, trim the inner fender liners.


Takes some maneuvering to get the fender liner in and out without removing the front wheels.


Close, but not quite there yet.

After trimming the fender liners just right, I was finally done:


The final install without the fender liner…


… and what it looks like with the fender liner back in place.


Wider shot. Can’t miss them now, I don’t think.


Another pic taken Easter Sunday afternoon.

So mission completed, albeit a little over a year after I first thought about doing the mod. Now, I'm debating on if I should re-paint the brackets flat black instead of the silvery color they are now.

EDIT 04.18.17: Wasn't feeling the silver after all, was off early from work Tuesday so I resprayed the brackets matte black:


That looks much better.
 

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Discussion Starter #458
Nice clean work as usual Raine! Satin Black .02
Yeah I agree, probably better to paint the brackets satin or matte black instead.
 

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Just want to say that your build is freaking amazing!

As a newly minted Frontier owner, I already have a wish list bigger than my wallet thanks to this thread alone. (OK, I actually already had a list bigger than my wallet before I bought the truck, but it's about twice as long now. :))

Thanks for the detailed write-ups and the inspiration.
 

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Discussion Starter #460
Just want to say that your build is freaking amazing!

As a newly minted Frontier owner, I already have a wish list bigger than my wallet thanks to this thread alone. (OK, I actually already had a list bigger than my wallet before I bought the truck, but it's about twice as long now. :))

Thanks for the detailed write-ups and the inspiration.
Don't blame me for anything lol
 
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