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Discussion Starter #422
I feel your pain...what a can of worms.
I have some similar (can of worms projects) haunting me.
A 9500 lb winch sitting on my work bench waiting to be installed in a (already mounted on my truck) Shrockworks bumper....where to mount winch control pack , re-locating winch remote plug , do I need a new more powerful battery to run the winch .....ect.....
Then figure out CB radio and Ham radio.
Do you have a tiny violin to play me a sad song?
I would suggest (you probably know this but) painting the brackets with self etching primer then paint with some VHT spray paint.

Edit ...Sorry Jen
I do not have a tiny violin, sorry. LOL

Yeah probably going to do the same method as my sliders... the dilemma before that though is if I'm okay with the plain, square shape of it. My original diagram was more elaborate - I'll find it and post a pic when I can.

That is a weird place to be mounting your spare can of butane fuel. ::wink:: I have one of those (Asian Supermarket Butane) stoves too. Use it for all kinds of thing.
Hey man, when you get that urge to eat some shabu shabu, you know what that means. ::grin::
 

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Discussion Starter #423 (Edited)
Random pic, shuttling in OC:

 

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Discussion Starter #424 (Edited)
And this was my Sunday morning so far:

 

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Discussion Starter #425 (Edited)
Rear "Shuttle" Camera (03.19.17)

Spent last Sunday doing some electrical work (as shown in post #424). Initially I had installed a 4 wire harness from the cab to the rear left taillamp area awhile back - 2 wires for my Power Tailgate Lock Mod and 2 wires for my UtiliTrack LED Light Mod. However I needed to move my second camera from the front of the vehicle (which I never really used) to the back for two reasons: first, when I have the tailgate down, the OEM camera is useless since it's in the tailgate - meaning with the tailgate down, all I see is the ground. Second, when I'm going out to ride my mountain bike, the tailgate pad I use also covers the OEM camera (see photo in post #423) rendering it useless.


Can’t see anything with the tailgate pad on, or with the tailgate down.

I figured I could move the second camera from the front bumper to below the rear bumper, so that I can use my Kenwood head unit and switch cameras whenever the OEM camera was blocked or if the tailgate was open. Because of this I had to run a video cable and 2 more wires for camera power/ground.

So I spent Sunday afternoon removing the original 4-wire harness (which required dropping the spare tire for access), and I replaced it with a new 9-wire harness plus video cable. I ran the wires from inside the cab (using an access hole underneath the left-rear floor area), along the inside edge of the frame rail, and up to the area behind the rear left tail lamp. I reconnected the bed LED lights, the tailgate lock actuator, and now I had extra wires to use for the second camera. I still have 3 more wires available in case I add something else to the rear of the truck in the future, and I ran everything behind the tail lamp on purpose; in the future, if I ever add something else electrical in the back, I don't have to drop the spare tire and crawl underneath the bed again! As for the camera itself, I mounted it to the receiver just to the side of the receiver opening, below the bumper:


Second rear camera, for use when the OEM camera is blocked or the tailgate is down.

So now whenever I have the tailgate pad on (when shuttling MTB, thus "Shuttle camera") or if the tailgate itself is lowered, I still have a rear camera to use when backing up by simply hitting a switch on my Kenwood head unit to swap between OEM rear camera and the new "Shuttle" camera.


Tailgate down, and now I can still see what’s back there!
 

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Discussion Starter #426 (Edited)
PIAA Wire Wrap (03.22.17)

Sometimes DIY projects go backwards, where you see the solution and then you think of where to use it. For the longest time the wires coming out of my PIAA 520 ATP's bugged me. Normally I use split loom for everything, but I didn’t want to use it on the outside of the vehicle (where it’s visible) so I just left the lamp wires as is. Then the other day at Fry’s Electronics, I was randomly browsing when I came across a roll of Techflex braided sleeve and it hit me - I’m going to use this for those wires! I bought a 25-foot roll (the smallest size available) and went home to do the job.


Super long 25-foot roll of the stuff, and I only needed like 20-inches.

To do the job properly I had to unsolder the wires from inside the PIAA driving lamps first. Next the sleeve went over the wires, and I locked the sleeve in place at both ends with a small piece of heat shrink tubing. Finally, I soldered the wires back to the lamps, reassembled everything, and I was done. I know it may seem like a small, trivial mod, but I guess as they say - it’s all in the details.


Mod finished, where you can’t even see it unless you look.
 

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Can your setup be switched so that either camera comes on with the backup signal or is it set to only one or the other? Looks great!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #428
Can your setup be switched so that either camera comes on with the backup signal or is it set to only one or the other? Looks great!!!!
When the backup signal goes on (shifter in "R") the OEM tailgate camera always shows on the head unit screen first, because that's the primary camera. However I just have to tap the screen once and the view will change to the "Shuttle" camera instantly. If I really wanted the Shuttle camera to pop up first on the head unit screen whenever I put the shifter into "R" I would just swap the two video input RCA cables at the back of the head unit.

BTW I can pull up the camera view at any time with two button presses, and I can switch back and forth between both cameras whenever I feel like it by tapping the screen once as mentioned above.

::smile::
 

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Nice mod!
Is your HU functional while using the cameras? IE - Can you listen to music or make/accept a call while in camera mode?
(Pardon if this was already covered.)
 

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Discussion Starter #430
Nice mod!
Is your HU functional while using the cameras? IE - Can you listen to music or make/accept a call while in camera mode?
(Pardon if this was already covered.)
Yessir. The camera function doesn't interrupt anything - it just puts the camera(s) picture on the screen under two conditions:

1. Gear shift is in reverse
2. I manually turn the camera function on using the head unit button.

In either case I can switch back and forth between both cameras just by tapping the screen, or I can turn the camera view off at any time by touching the "home", "nav", "phone", or "menu" buttons. I can even drive normally with either camera on as well, and I can turn either camera on with the key in ACC. All other functions - music, nav, phone through Bluetooth, etc. keeps going as usual.
 

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Discussion Starter #431 (Edited)
Rigid Industries D-Series LED Driving Lamps (03.26.17)

Last weekend the nice UPS lady dropped of my brand new Rigid Industries D-Series LED Driving Lamps:


They say brighter is always better… when it’s dark.

After researching all the different kinds of lamps they have (and they have a lot!) I selected the DOT/SAE certified versions, which meet federal requirements to be used on the road. In other words: they’re street legal, which is what I was looking for since I was going to install them into the factory fog lamp locations. These lights have a wide angle and a sharp, flat cutoff at the top. They’re also pretty hefty - the aluminum housings have some weight to them, they feel really solid. One Rigid D-Series is more than twice the weight of the OEM fog lamp and the Morimoto fog lamp combined - makes sense seeing as the OEM and Morimoto are almost entirely made of plastic. Here’s a pic of the OEM Nissan fog lamp next to the Morimoto XB-Series Type-S LED lamp, next to the new Rigid D-Series:


Left to right: OEM Frontier, Morimoto XB Type-S, Rigid Industries D-Series

And now let’s get to the install. The first thing I did was remove the Morimoto XB-Series fog lamps from the truck (sold already, don't ask). Next, instead of using the included Rigid wire harness, I made my own custom length harness using 14-ga wire and a relay socket (no pics, it’s boring to look at) and made the necessary connections to be able to run the D-Series lamps off of my factory fog lamp switch. 12v main power and ground were hooked up to my BlueSea fuse block. With the wiring out of the way, it was time to install the actual LED driving lamps.

The kit included a Nissan Frontier-specific mounting bracket and hardware, but it’s not 100% bolt-on; some mild modifications needed to be done to the OEM fog lamp brackets. No problem - I used my Dremel and trimmed off the 4 guide tabs on the bracket. Doing this doesn’t affect the OEM fog lamp mounting, so if I ever want to go back to stock, I still can:


Trimmed fog lamp bracket on the left, stock bracket on the right.

Next was the actual D-Series lamp and adaptor plate, which attached to the OEM fog lamp bracket using the OEM Torx screws. The plate had a nice textured finish to it:


Metal adaptor plate attaches to the OEM factory fog lamp bracket.

Finally, the front trim plate. The installation of the front trim plate was simple but there was a noticeable gap between the trim plate and where the mounting screws go. If I tightened the screws too much, it would bend the trim plate. I first used a combination of the included metal washer and five 0.5mm plastic shims to get the spacing just right to where I can tighten down the mounting screws properly. Then I realized I was putting thin plastic shims up against an aluminum heatsink housing (not good!) so I took it all apart again. After a little searching in the garage, I found some 2.5mm aluminum spacers to resolve the issue.


Initially I used plastic shims, then realized the mistake and I replaced them with aluminum, heh.

With the whole thing put together, time to bolt them inside the bumper:


Rigid D-Series assembly installed into the front bumper. King reservoir cameo.

From the outside, they’re not that noticeable or flashy when the truck is just sitting there. The only telltale sign that these are aftermarket is the square lens shape inside a round bumper hole:


Squares in round holes. Okay.

Of course, if you actually look closely, you’ll see the Rigid brand name stamped into the aluminum frame:


They shaped the front trim plate so it won’t block the Rigid Industries name.


They turn on, so that meant the wiring was right, heh.

I still have to get the aim right, that evening after I installed them I fired them up for the first time and wow - they're really bright! However they were aimed way too high, so I'll have to properly aim them next. When I get the aim corrected, I'll post photos to show the end result. Side note: now I really have to do something about my headlamps, because the light color of the Phillips halogens don't look right with the Rigid 5500k LEDs!
:😁:

EDIT: After installing the D-Series LED driving lamps, I spent the next Saturday reconfiguring the wiring of my high beams, D-Series LED lamps, the Xterra Switch, and the PIAA 520 Lamps. Afterward, my front lights now work as follows:

  • PIAA 520's activated by headlamp high beams only (no more dedicated switched control)
  • Rigid D2 LED Lamps normally activated by OEM fog switch on the light stalk; AND
  • Rigid D2 LED Lamps optionally activated independently using the Xterra Switch
  • Headlamps, Rigid D2 LED Lamps, and PIAA 520 Lamps can all be on at the same time, if needed
  • Xterra Switch now connected to a 12v switched power source
  • Rigid D2 LED Lamps can be turned on at any time as long as the key is in ACC or ON
The last two I did as a safety - as long as the light stalk is on "OFF" and the key is out of the ignition, I don't have to worry about a dead battery if I accidentally leave the D-Series LEDs on.

EDIT #2: A fellow member asked for a diagram of how I wired the Rigid's to two switches, so here it is:


Don't forget the diodes.
 

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Discussion Starter #436
What's your thoughts compared to the Morimotos? I do like my morimotos over the OEM fogs, but, is the extra cost on the Rigids worth their price?
The Morimotos are a definite upgrade from stock, simply by the fact that they're LED vs halogen with the correct lenses. As for the Rigid D2s, my observations so far:

- Install took more time than the Morimotos. Morimotos are direct plug and play.

- As far as light output goes, first I have to aim them properly (hopefully tonight I'll have the time) but initial thoughts are that these are definitely brighter than the Morimotos. After turning them on to test my wiring, I made the mistake of looking directly at the lamps. Then I stood there for about 3 minutes doing nothing until that light spot in my eyes disappeared LOL

- Morimoto specs are 1200-lumen raw per lamp; Rigid specs are 1760-lumen raw per lamp... but again, my awesome eyeball test above sure seemed like the Rigids are more than just 30% brighter.

- The Rigids run on their own relay and harness directly to the power source, whereas the Morimotos are just powered through the OEM wiring.

- Price-wise, the Morimotos right now are... $205 MSRP, the Rigids are $280 MSRP ($313 for the kit with mounting adaptors).
 

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Discussion Starter #437

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Discussion Starter #438 (Edited)
D-Series LED Driving Lamp Output Photos (04.3.17)

Let\s see some night pics, please.
As requested - some photos showing the D-Series LED driving lamps' output:


Comparison between headlamps only and headlamps plus the D2s.

They might still be aimed a tad too high (are they?) but this is how I currently have my D-Series LED lamps aimed. The photos show the difference in visibility with the D-Series lamps on; actually the difference is more pronounced in person compared to what my iPhone camera sees (you know how cameras try to adjust exposure and brighthess on the fly). At the sides, notice the fire hydrant on the left and the hill at the edge of the grass on the right are easily visible. More importantly, out front I can see that there's a curb coming up that can't be seen yet with just headlamps.
 

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During an air filter change as part of regular maintenance I stumbled upon this:


Thinnest ground wire ever.

No problem, I had some extra 4-gauge power cable from my amplifier install, so I bought some ring terminals and made this:


New ground cable up top, OEM wire on the bottom. Big difference!

...and installed it. Took all but 5 minutes after the soldering iron was hot. Now the engine block has a much better ground:

Proper ground cable.
Nice. With all the electronics upgrade, did you do the big3 or is that the only ground wire you upgraded?
Looked through the whole thread, great job!!!!
 

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Nice. With all the electronics upgrade, did you do the big3 or is that the only ground wire you upgraded?
Looked through the whole thread, great job!!!!
Nice job man! I get some speaker noise with engine acceleration, kinda sounds like a wind up toy, is it related to the small ground cable?
Anyone know if a thread exists for that?

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 
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